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Badder

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Everything posted by Badder

  1. Badder
    This will be OOB, with just a few bits of scratch stowage. I actually started this build last week, assembling those ...er....sub-assemblies... which can be ...er... assembled... prior to painting. So, that's the chassis, the interior, the wheels, and the engine and I added a few bits and pieces of the bodywork. Here's some shots: The main bodywork... all in one piece (makes the job a bit easier) The engine part-assembled. The exhaust manifold and cooling fan have been left off for ease of fitting in the first instance and ease of painting in the second. Shame none of it will be seen. Chassis part-assembled. The drive shafts and transfer box were a bit of a pain to fit because I followed the instructions and fitted the transfer box long before the drive shafts... and the shafts were too tight a fit. I had to cut off the lugs at the ends and just use CA to locate them. The floor with 'floor extensions, seats, for the fixing of' added, and the central console. [/url] Bonnet and radiator grill... not a good fit here, but then I've seen photos of these vehicles and the bad fit is accurate! more to follow...
  2. Badder
    Thanks for that Ozzy, I shall bear that in mind. Regards, Badder. Oooh I replied and quoted BEFORE I saw the dio! That's smashing that is. I really really really must get me some sea foam. I keep forgetting!
  3. Badder
    Here's the line of rushes along one side of the bank. Whilst it was partially embedded into wet Polyfilla, it was also glued to the already dried Polyfilla using lashings of medium CA. In my diorama Somewhere near Villers Bocage, which featured buildings, rubble and ivy leaves, I went through four 50g bottles of the stuff. This diorama won't require anywhere near as much. The rushes will be flattened, ripped up and pushed into the stream where the Carrier entered the stream, and flattened and ripped up on the other bank where it exited. The water will have to be muddied for realism. The Realistic Water I am using can be coloured/tinted with acrylics (According to the instructions on the bottle) I'm not sure how successful this will be. Next job: to build up the bank along the rear of the diorama. For this, I will be using Polycell's other great product, Rapid dry Cement... which dries, well, very very rapidly! We're talking a matter of minutes here! Thanks for looking, BADDER.
  4. Badder
    I have been dying to get cracking on this one: Tamiya's wonderful 'Golden Oldie', the British 25pdr field gun and Quad gun tractor. I remember ogling this kit as a young teen but only ever being able to afford the other kit with just the tractor. So, I HAVE built the tractor before and remember binning it after making a complete mess of the glazing! All these years later, I couldn't believe how cheap this kit was considering what you get for your money, just shy of 20 quid for The tractor, the gun and limber carriage and one figure (the driver) The driver in truth is a bit of a disappointment. The kit could have done with 5 others figures to fill up the seats in the tractor. Oh and the driver seems to be descended from a lobster. Does ANYONE EVER hold a steering wheel like that? I know that Tamiya do a kit with gunners to load and fire the 25pdr, but they are topless (which is a bit rude) and dressed for North Africa (which isn't in Europe) I want to place this tractor in Europe. And that means it's manned by Canadians (according to Tamiya) IF ANYONE KNOWS ANY DIFFERENT PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE I PUT THE DECALS ON!
  5. Badder
    Cool. Now, what have I signed up to exactly? My French isn't brilliant but I'm pretty sure a Vignette is something to do with wine. Do I get to drink some? In all seriousness, I'm not sure how I'll cope with a 6x6 inch base. And there's one rule that puzzles me. Paraphrasing, a wing overhanging the base is okay, because the wing is attached to the plane which is fixed directly to the base, but a person STANDING on that wing ISN'T okay, because he (or she)is not fixed directly to the base. First, does that mean a person standing on the wing INSIDE the limits of the base is okay, or does the rule apply just to a person standing out on the overhanging part of the wing, or does it apply to both? Secondly, if a tree's branches overhang the base, does that mean they cannot have leaves on? Only SLIGHTLY confused, Badder.
  6. Badder
    I've added the final layer of Polyfilla to the track area and made imprints/ruts in the mud. I've also made a start on the vegetation, placing a strip of Astroturf along the edge of the stream to simulate rushes. The aother bank will get the same treatment. The rushes will have to be flattened and torn up where the carrier has driven over them, but that will be done later, prior to the pouring of the water. Photos later when the Polyfilla has set. Next stage, to fix the wall in place. Thanks for looking, Badder.
  7. Badder
    I have the same problem. Search the web for videos on figure-painting. Find a technique you like then practice practice practice!
  8. Badder
    Thanks Pigsty, it's nice to know I can buy some pre-made stuff, but I'd also like to try to make my own.
  9. Badder
    Cool. I wasn't sure. It's a great little scene. A simple idea, but with lovely details. your other works are stunning too. Regards, Badder
  10. Badder
    What scale is this? Badder.
  11. Badder
    Stick my name down please? Thanks. BADDER
  12. Badder
  13. Badder
    Wall coming along nicely. Washes applied. When this lot is dry I'll dab on some CA in patches and sprinkle over with Dil tops. In the close-ups below, you can see how the 'Grit Paints' create a very nice texture, just right for moss in the case of the green paints. TFL Badder
  14. Badder
    EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK! Another winged thing!!!!!!! Nice motor though! Perhaps you should concentrate on the dark and dirty side? Regards, Badder.
  15. Badder
    For those who haven't seen my WiP Lost in France, here's what I use to simulate moss... Japanese 'Grit Paint'. I have a dozen pots of varying colours and grittiness, ranging from white through yellows, greens, browns, greys and finally black. They are water-soluble and are marketed in Japan specifically for dioramas, though I have used them to muddy up the bottom of the Universal Carrier, and achieved some excellent results. Here, I have applied two shades of green with a stiff brush, starting with the slightly duller and darker green and then the lighter. It looks a bit gunky right now, but it dries with a rubbery texture and shrinks to fit the details. I will apply some more dark washes once this is dry. , Thanks for looking Badder.
  16. Badder
    I think the best photo is the one with the shadow cast by the wall. It makes the whole scene look real. Your brickwork is great btw. Badder.
  17. Badder
    The wall has just had its first wash. The dark earth wash is just there to help accentuate where the deepest shadows (overhangs, nooks and crannies) are. The wall will end upcovered in moss, with vegetation climbing up it and hanging over it from the bank above. The strip of backing card at the bottom of the wall has been left without stones as this will be sunk into the last layer of Polyfilla. Thanks for looking, Badder.
  18. Badder
    Oh, yes, very nice. Nice and simple. I'm not a magician you know! Where would I get a 1/35th scale landing craft? Badder.
  19. Badder
    The penultimate layer of Polyfilla has been poured on the track. The wall has received a base coat of buff. When the wall is dry I will apply my sand coloured Japanese grit paint prior to a gloss varnish coat and dark earth washes. Pics later tonight when that's all done. Badder.
  20. Badder
    Pretty good diorama if you ask me. My brother has a real truck similar to that, and exactly the same colour.... having said that, I THOUGHT it was that colour, but it's not. It's even worse! Regards. Badder
  21. Badder
    Here are a bunch of stones. And then the same bunch of stones glued to the backing card. As it's a dry-stone wall, I stuck the stones to the backing 'side on' so that the rough-cut edges face out. The finished wall will have vegetation growing in the cracks, and hanging over the top. Thanks for looking, Badder.
  22. Badder
    Today I will be commencing work on a dry-stone wall which will run along the back of the diorama. More than a wall, it forms a support for the bank, stopping it from collapsing onto the track. I will be using the same technique as shown in the WiP 'Lost in France', a plasticard backing faced with individual stones cut from another sheet of plasticard. However, parts of the wall have collapsed with predictable results. I will therefore be modelling spilled stonework, exposed earth banks with tree roots, and a precariously leaning tree.
  23. Badder

    3D pens.

    Badder posted a topic in Diorama Chat

    Hi, so has anyone got one? A 3D pen that is, and are they any good for model-making. I first saw one advertised about 3 years ago when I was doing some sculptures (at that time, I hadn't made a model/diorama for three decades and didn't think of 3D pens in that context. I've looked around on the web and they seem quite cheap... somewhere around the 30 quid mark, and I was wondering if they would be any good for drawing/making trees, or more specifically branches and twigs. If anyone does have one and uses it for modelling, is the plastic compatible with the normal glues like CA and Liquid Poly? And if you do use them for making diorama features, can you please post some pics? Thanks, Badder.
  24. Badder
    For those of you who didn't see the Churchill WiP or RFi, here's the 'bit of humour' I added, which isn't visible in any of the diorama photos above.
  25. Badder
    Photobucket photo removed. I'm trying a little experiment and incorporating a metal mesh within the Polyfilla. My homemade static grass applicator hasn't performed quite as well as I had expected so far and I am wondering if the metal mesh will help by producing a stronger magnetic field. I am holding the mesh down with weights while the Polyfilla dries. Meanwhile the mesh has been curled up at the back of the diorama and will help with the modelling of the bank when I reach that stage. Not shown in this photo, is the stream bed. The first stage is complete, and consisted of raking a layer of wet Polyfilla along the bed, in the direction of flow. Thanks for looking, Badder.
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