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ProfSparks

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  1. Hi All Fearing for my etch catching skills, I bent the smaller parts 'on the vine' They were then assembled on the sticky side of a strip of masking tape and secured with CA Later prized off with a held breath, then floated onto the surface of the covers with some Pledge As you can see from them in situ, the result is subtle but (hopefully) noticeable You can probably tell I'm putting off the HGW seat sand seat belts, but they shouldn't be any smaller than these Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  2. Hi All Moving away from the engine for a moment, I put the floats together That's a 1/72 Lancaster fuselage for scale. They were each loaded with 30g of ballast in the nose, and sealed. Now then, as it's a reasonably visible 1/32, the etch should be reasonably visible too... ...And then there's the access cover handle to remove from the moulding and add a couple of replacement atoms, folded. We shall see how that goes. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  3. Hi All Some wiring was CA'd into the bulkhead and the front cowling frame was added The tank and radiator were attached to the bulkhead (You'll notice that I forgot to paint the inside of the radiator mesh... ) And the front cowl added with the gun panel in for alignment The rear plate of the engine assembly had been left loose for two reasons; to aid in the wiring of the engine, and also the fit of the rear plate to the engine was slightly discretionary, and I didn't fancy having the whole thing a couple of degrees off when it came to line it up wit the fuselage and gun firing through between the cylinders. Rear plate attached to front cowl and some wiring added Wiring complete, and engine held on And in situ Leaving the engine off will greatly ease the pain of masking too. The exhausts will be done once the engine is installed. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  4. Hi All Slow times in The Lab, but some progress The vents were dished out to provide some 3D behind the etch grilles While the plates were put between the cylinders and held with Pledge All the parts were then coated in Stynylrez Black, with the casings in Vallejo VA 71.097 Base Grey. Some Tamiya Brown Panel Liner and a touch of dry brush with lighter grey and Aluminium And the whole thing was ready to be assembled. Note to self, put the front piece on first, otherwise the vent pieces get in the way, as follows... With the rear pipes and vents on, I had to snip off a branch and slot it down between the vents Doesn't look too bad once its back in place The rear plate is still loose to aid the fitting and wiring at a later stage. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  5. Hi All Sorry for the delay, things have been a bit sideways of late. Hi John, yes I'd thought of just sourcing instrument decals, but as there were so many other useful etch parts I figured I'd invest. Also, as the cockpit is so open and visible, the seat is on the cards too. If it was more closed and obscured i probably would have just painted it and hidden it. The gun sight has a couple of parts to it And the flat levers got a dab of PVA and black paint So eventually it goes together acceptably with some Kristal Klear for the faces I've already knocked a lever off. In the other corner I've started on the engine and mount There's quite a bit of etch to spread round on here too. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  6. Hi All Not wanting to be beaten by an inanimate object, I gave her a couple of rounds of stern glowering, followed by a going over with some abrasive language, and eventually a rub down with some lightly gritted teeth. Then, throwing caution to the wind, I succumbed to what I thought might have worked in the first place:- Tamiya XF-1 Flat White, cut 50/50 with IPA You'll notice the "F" and "Flat" in that paint code, non of your glossy rubbish. That's with one coat on. Another smoothing and spraying is in the pipeline. Moral of this episode would appear to be STICK WITH WHAT YOU KNOW (unless it's on an experimental build that you can bury somewhere in the Lab later) Anyhoo, perhaps I might park her here and subject a minor build to the red and the blue phases, wouldn't want to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  7. Hi All Spurred on by the joys of Spring, I now bring you an update of two halves. Half 1 deals with the flat tyres and associated undercarriage Quite happy with those, will add the prominent hose line once they're installed And the props Again, quite happy, they'll look ok on the engines. Half 2 deals with Saruman The White. Two thin coats of White Stynylrez, followed by two thin coats of Tamiya X-2 White. Not as impressed as I felt I should have been, primer and gloss coats still transparent through to the grey plastic. Any other colour receiving the same treatment would have had no chance. So did I continue with the Tamiya like I knew I should, or did I try something else, new and exciting? Bring on AK Interactive AK-2052 White FS17875. Now, I've just had AK perform well on my side builds of Lanc and Typhoons, so no worries, right? It went on smooth, dried flat, but in the finish there began to appear gritty lumps I quickly wiped it off with paper towels, and made a mental note to not spray AK over Tamiya ever again (amongst other things) So here she is, one step forward, two steps back There may be another side build in the offing... Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  8. Hi All Sorry it's been a while, general lull in mojo etc, so I diverted onto a vintage build Anyhoo, on with this masking. Thanks Chris, they didn't go too bad in the end, helped markedly by that orange Cutting Mat The bubble on the top got the blanking treatment, one less thing to mask! And then the windscreen I'd a nagging doubt that some TET worked its way under a corner of tape, so I put her down for a bit. I had a go at the props, wondering if I could use a decal offcut for the black leading edge Turned out after a measure of some frustration that I couldn't, so a bit more masking Some touching up and they should be ok Not wanting to start the White paint, I then put her aside again and started a starter set or so I'll make an effort to knuckle down, honest. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  9. Hi All I've been sorting out a replacement IP for the etch to sit on, as the kit part looks too groovy to erase I drew round the Eduard backing plate onto some masking tape and cut it out Transferred the masking tape to sturdy plastic card and cut that out It should be good enough to support the etch once it's all painted in, and it's tucked under the skin anyway The other part I have been giving some attention to is the centre radio setups. Now then, as this is 1/32 you'd expect bigger etch than, say, 1/72, or 1/48 even. This is a dial from the radio eqpt That little sticky-up Aith* isn't part of the sprue (sheet?) gate, but needs to be bent forward to be a handle. There are meant to be two of them, but it's twin pinged off in a reckless bid for freedom. I heard it land somewhere on the desk, but it's hiding amongst the flakes of plastic. Also of note is etch No.4 I cut one off as you can see, but I must have breathed in at that moment. Either that, or it's still riding the thermals above my cutting mat. I'll never know as I never heard it land, but I'm sure losing the other three will not benefit the build. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve *https://tmoliff.blogspot.com/2011/10/aith-n.html
  10. Hi All The (odd) 3D kit detail is covered by the (mostly) 2D etch 5-6-7-8-9-10. (Should it be disconcerting that 5-6-7 go on the lower row, while 8-9-10 go on the upper?) At least I've matched the colour to Eduard, even though there are grounds for RLM02 being greener or darker grey Those Eduard people do like their '80s dot matrix printing process, looks like I'll be trying to blend in the fascias And tidying up the paint smudges... Anyhoo, the wire cables behind the pilot that are part of the lifting rigging to get the plane back on board are replaced with wire The whole shebang will get a dark wash and general dirtying before a slow drying Matt Varnish. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  11. Hi All I thought this was odd... The tail stabs have only half of the outer hinge brackets moulded, so I looked at the instructions Ah, right then, there's only supposed to be one inboard hinge part on the lower skin. But it still means that the lower half is short shot on both sides Not to worry, they're on the underside anyway. Anyhoo, on with her legs My plan is to assemble them , remove them for painting, and fit them when there's less chance of me destroying them. Those eight little struts that go from just behind the axle are quite fiddly, fitting not being helped when three of them are short so they all have to be aligned again. Engine mounting smoothed and on, doors carefully placed flush and glued before they fell in Windows and associated masking next Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  12. Hi All Yes you're right, no I couldn't live with it, so off it came. It put up quite a fight, so eventually the whole panel came with it That TET is marvelous stuff! After a bit more searching, what looked like the carb intake from a Spitfire was rounded off and pressed into service I hope I CAN live with that once it's had a couple of coats of disguise and hidden out of the way. On went the upper outer wing sections Now then, they are distinctly single position pieces, locating not just on the spar / bulkhead, but on pips too. So it was odd that although everything eventually clicked, one lower wing section was an easy fit (and will most likely require filler) and the other was contrary It felt like the upper wing sections were offset about 0,5mm to the main central lower piece. Something to look out for on my next one. Regardless, it's progress Bigger than I thought she'd be (a bit like a girl I just met!) Anyhoo, I have been pondering on the sequence of painting. White first, obvs, then mask and red, then mask and blue. But I'd like to get the engines all red after the blue. And the upper colour should go on after the lower colour But at least Airfix have provided deep grooves to guess at where the demarcation lines should be. Take the red waistline stripe, for example Ah, yes, those are the window frames moulded on to the windows. No popping them in once the paint's on, it's masks akimbo for the lot of them. Regarding the painting, I have in mind an experiment to see how convoluted I can make it. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  13. Hi All I've been beginning to exorcise a couple of my PE demons by folding sticking a variety of sizes of Eduard's best to the cutting block, the CA applicator, my fingers, and eventually, the 196 Fingers crossed (as they're stuck together) that the excess CA will blend in under a coat or two of XF-19. The floor seems to have been stuck in slightly low as there is a gap between it and the rear framework But it should be hidden by the kick plate The litter bin just perches on the rear shelf. I'm going to construct a new back panel for the printed IP as it would be such a waste to scrape off the nicely detailed kit part. If Revell had included some dial faces it would have made a very decent feature. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  14. Hi All D'oh! That was my plan I've had a play around with the engines in the cowlings and trying to get them centred And so far it looks doable so I painted the rest of the engines Shakey hands, good for mixing paint, not good for painting paint. Anyhoo, as a last resort there's always the XCG-17 route https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/da/Douglas_XCG-17_in_flight.jpg That's a fine looking Dakota there jyguy, I like what you've done with the cockpit window. I'm going to pinch that for mine as my window is missing too! While watching paint dry I found a couple of parts that could be pressed into service on the belly A slice off that tank half should approximate the Radome, and I'll fill that wing light full of Kristal Klear There's another window under there too that is missing from the Xtradecal info, but is apparent on photos That Radome slice is now obviously twice as big as it should be, but I might just let it be. There's precious little detail under the nose for the forward window location, so I'm going to just take a stab in the dark. And as for I refer my learned member to the post I made a few moments before... Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  15. Hi All Meandering onwards, there is a spar that spans the main wing centre section, and includes landing lights and wheel well rear bulkheads, and ejection pin marks This is glued to the lower wing centre section, and allowed to set while I ponder the underside additions However, although the rears of the wheel wells are inclined, the spar and bulkhead pieces must be perpendicular to meet the upper section. So they were levered off slightly again. I'm sure they'll be fine Anyhoo, I scribed in the drivers sunroof While on the roof, apart from the slight changes in aerials etc, the astrodome seems to be just blanked off. I'll burn that bridge when I come to it. Anyhoo, the parts so far got a blast of Army Painter Plate Mail Metal WP1130 (for a change) And a dirty wash. Airfix would have you attach the constructed wings to the body, mount the engines, then clasp the cowling halves round them. That sounds like tricky seam eradication and painting, so I might wheedle things out of order slightly. Be prepared to point out I should have followed the instructions when it all goes Pete Tong. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
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