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ProfSparks

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  1. Hi All Off and on for some while, so I thought I'd see what all these track links do. Stuck to the back of masking tape and glued one by one. I figured I'd need a couple of flat runs before going round the wheels, about twenty five ish links should do for a start. They did seem to bow up slightly while drying, so I tried doing them on the back of the ruler that happened to be exactly the right width to fit between the teeth Still bowing slightly, but they should flatten out when there's a wheel on them. Anyhoo, on with the surprisingly high number of little things to add to the outside, such as lifting hooks, handles replaced with wire, lights, track racks from PE etc Also on the PE fret are the tow cable securing clamps, those little things I expect the merest passing gaze will have them off again, so I drilled them out and replaced them with little bits of wire A stern gaze should have those away... Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  2. Hi All Going to try for a better yellow based camo, so this specimen appeared in The Lab You get some plastic in the box along with all the air you bought With a couple of small etch sets, some string, individual track links And, hold on to your hats, construction steps sequenced in Roman Numerals! The part numbers and the instructions differ, not to worry, just Match The Shapes There are some of the best ejector pin marks available, but no locating pins So that third hand of yours will come in, er, handy to get parts aligned and glued The instructions show three schemes, and there are subtle differences in the parts to use for each version. Some are indicated, but some (like the rear hatch on the turret) are not. There is a 2/3 wide hatch plate also on the sprue, but looks like I'll be doing a version with the full width hatch. Indications for boxes / jerrycans / smoke canisters to be positioned all over, but I think I'll leave them off until I see photo evidence. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  3. Hi All Tracks were joined with a heated screwdriver, and appear to have a better hold than I remember The metal surfaces of the wheels were given a touch of Aluminium and some of that Light Rust Wash Then the whole shebang was fitted together I must admit that I'm quite pleased with how it's turned out, considering the base kit, my tank experience, and my experimental approach. I've already got another earmarked for The Lab, hope to see you there. Thanks fore all the comments and suggestions Cheers Steve
  4. Hi All While the matt was drying I had a look at the included figure Herr Stumpy Giraffe has had some work done... He'll be fine as a practice! Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  5. Hi All Just a couple of pics to round this off Cheers Steve
  6. Hi All Hi Maddoxx, that wash was the first application and has since been knocked back in line with the rest of the body. Still too stark? I'm after a grubby but not battle beaten look, early on in it's career. I've been wrangling with a couple of items for a while, the first being the tracks. They're made from the same plastic as 'superglue' bottles, tinted grey by adding Teflon. After a couple of painting dead ends, I've settled on those MIG AMMO washes again. First pass with their Dark Brown Wash For Green Vehicles A.MIG-1005 Then Light Rust Wash A.MIG-1004 (lower left) It could be that they're all I have that had any noticeable affect on the tracks, so I may be looking at other items in their range. The other item that has been vexing me has been the tow cable. It's on now in a rusty puddle, should be ok when it's under a coat of matt. That's where I'm headed next, then I'll put it all together. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  7. Hi All Well, you know how things go, I didn't get to do a rust wash and a Flory bath after all. Instead, some newly acquired Mig Ammo Dark Green Wash For Green Vehicles was nearby, so on it went. It came off again with the aid of some Zest-it Pencil Blend that had come as part of a job lot https://www.zest-it.com/pencil_blend.htm (no, I'd never heard of them either, but this works and only smells faintly of soft orange ) And left a grimy but not dissatisfying covering This was worked back as the decals went on And looks a lot less severe than in the pics. Anyhoo, as things were progressing better than expected, I decided to replace the (snapped) tow cable with some scavenged wire It gets a bit blurry from then as my eyes don't seem to see the tracks straight Never mind, a final DBWFGV in the shadows ready to be blended in before a matt coat Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  8. Hi All I'll be using the kit tracks, they're slightly flexible but look slightly curved. A thin coat of Tamiya XF-63 German Grey gets rid of the greenish hue I tried several very thinned coats of progressively lightened XF-63, but they were either too thinned or not lightened enough. I'll have a specific experiment session to get the feel for adding white to a base colour. I had a go at rust on the exhaust, starting with some thinned XF-2 dabbed at with some IPA on a stiff brush for texture. A couple of bright colours And some brown washes Doesn't look too bad, I might change it slightly with further poking, I'll see how I feel I feel a bit with the next coat. Usually I'd seal the base with Pledge, but today I had an attack of "Oh, look what I've found in the back of a paint drawer, I wonder if this is any good?" and used some Tamiya X-22 Clear That answers that question. Never mind, and with teeth firmly clenched, I picked out the bolt and rivet heads with Vallejo VA71.047 US Grey Some rust wash and a Flory bath should hide most of the Shaky Hand Syndrome. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  9. Hi All Wellllll.... Not exactly... They're too short to meet, never mind join, and refused all permanent connection with the wheels, so a helping device was applied to keep the tracks and wheels in contact with the base That did it, so the rest of the major parts were added You'll notice that even though the original plan had the side plates on staple stand-offs, there wasn't space between the track and the body to fit them, so I just applied them directly to the too wide tracks. The PVA / Filler / Coffee mix is encouraging But generally it's way too dark and the chipping is a bit meh. If I feel the urge I'll add the aerial and give it a matt coat, but so far it's served it's role as an interesting gateway build. Thanks for the company, see you soon Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  10. Hi All Has this ever happened to you? One moment you're watching Plasmo, you casually click on a link to Night Shift, you have a couple of beers, then a couple of days later you get a delivery from an internet auction site ? So anyway, this arrived in The Lab Apart from the suspension not working and being suspiciously close to my home wi-fi password, it seems legit. Not many sprues They build swiftly into a mostly gap free construction ready for primer Primed with Vallejo VA71.315 Tire Black Because 1) I have it 2) It sprays and covers beautifully 3) It's not black (more like the green from Slate Grey) And there she resides. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  11. Hi All I've been experimenting with sponge chipping with some Army Painter WP1142 Chaotic Red and Vallejo Game Color 72.047 Wolf Grey Not as convincing as it looks on Y'Tube, but early days. Some greeblies were attached to the sides in lieu of actual items (I resisted the urge to add a Lego stud) and everything got a wash of Flory Brown. Fortunately it came off again! On with the wheels Next up is threading the tracks through the (too small) gap between the wheels and the body, hopefully with the join hidden behind one of the side panels. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  12. Hi All A tentative start on the next phase, markings. I'd considered masking and spraying the stripes, better to chip with, but the prospect of the masking removing great swathes of already applied paint put me off. However, the Tamiya decals are in many parts and quite thick. As a test I applied the lower fuselage stripes (there are separate white bands still to go either side of the black stripes) and soused them in Draco Strong overnight. They settled reasonably well, at least enough to see the engraved panel lines, so I dragged the pointy end of an etch sawblade along. That's encouraging, along the lines of what I was after, so I'll gradually stick on the rest of the jigsaw and see how it goes. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  13. Hi All Been dancing in The Lab recently, with a couple of steps forward, and a step back, albeit slightly sideways. Forward step 1. Tamiya XF-61 Dark Green thinned and applied. Lesson learned 1. Thin it more and move closer. Forward step 2. Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown thinned more and applied closer Lesson learned 2. Thin it even more, like A LOT more. Apart from that I'm quite happy with the overall effect You can see on the side plates at the bottom where I started, hopefully they'll cover with mud. On the subject of mud, I had another prod about on the base as those PPP lumps looked a touch 'lumpy' I mixed together some PVA glue, brown wood filler, a touch of that Humbrol 29, and sprinkled in some coffee grounds for texture I tried a couple of ratios of PVA/filler/coffee with varying results You can get more slop with more PVA, or more clod with more filler, or more stony with more coffee. I've put some on a Sacrificial Sherman to see how it all sticks and stays on I need to work on my washes, more brown and less black. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  14. Hi All Go for it, I suspect this came from a SOD Vallejo Primertime to even things out Then VA71.025 Dunkelgelb Dark Yellow There are two extra wheels in there, nicked from that other sprue. They'll be going where they're not too visible as I want to put a couple of the kit wheels as spares on the turret. Tyre painting next, then some red and green stripes Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  15. Hi All After some consideration, I gave her undersides a thinned goat of VA71.257 Light Blue RLM76 Much happier, both with the resultant finish and colour tone. A touch lighter and smoother, more in keeping with the pics I've seen. A coat of Pledge to seal it on, then next steps involving the topside. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
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