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About ProfSparks

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  1. Hi All A couple of sneaky moments in The Lab! I started with the Dark Earth on the '61 using the original Vallejo 71.029. It was odd on my Spitfire, but thinking that as it was going over a yellowish base it should be ok... Nope. Looks like I'll be saving that particular bottle for dilute mud and grime washes. On with the BS Dark Earth 71.323 then Better. Off with the sausages That Middlestone has a slightly ?greenish? hue to it, is that just me? Not wanting to get stuck in another paint cul-de-sac, I started applying decals. The target tug only had a couple The Bagdad's were mainly out of register, but impressively resilient to poking about And the silver one's showed up crisply WAIT, WHAT? Only the underwing roundals have the white on them Too far gone now, I'm going to push on with the final assembly of parts and not think about them Comments and suggestions about getting better quality kits welcome... Cheers Steve
  2. Hi All Hi Darby, I suspect the key ingredient for use with CA is a fine, small grained powder. Good quality flour (plain, self raising or gluten free), talc or slate dust etc. It's the smoothness of the mix that gives the best results. I guess my bargain sawdust blend wasn't quite up to the job ...or baking soda too... Hi Ced, as ever you're spot on with the info! I'll have a look at that iModelKit, see if I can get it on Android Sorry about the trick question, I trip myself up sometimes... Hi André, I used 71.305 Int. Grey Green, looks a bit like a light Sky Anyhoo, I masked off the yellow and gave it a coat of grey primer Grey covers yellow better than yellow covers grey, but 72.052 Silver covers grey nicely I got a coat of 71.031 Middlestone on the T-61 and will now Pledge them all. I figure the T-20's will be shiny and the T-61 matt Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  3. Hi All A couple of quick blasts in The Lab to get some colour on First up was Vallejo Air 71.108 UK Azure applied directly on the underside of the black T-61 Starting with the nose and working to the tail, it was quite mottled a you can see, but once I'd given it a thin coat I started at the nose again Turned into this Smooth and even in a single session. Impressed at light shade over a black base. The opposite was next, with a coat of Vallejo Game Extra Opaque 72.141 Heavy Red on the white T-21 Again, a single session of thin coats. It looks slightly pink in the flesh, even though it has covered the white primer completely. Pressing on, the yellow stripes on the silver T-21 were applied So, yellow over grey gives a sort of sickly green. Schoolboy error, should have given it a white base first So I gave it a quick cover up with the white primer and reapplied the yellow. With that sorted, I still wasn't convinced about the red one, so gave it a coat of Vallejo 71.084 Fire Red. Slightly better, slightly more orangey in a Tomato soup sort of way, but no-where near Humbrol G19 Red. Is there a better Vallejo equivalent? The lists recommend the 084, but it isn't. What Vallejo Model Air would you use on a trainer or Red Arrows Gnat? Anyhoo, here they are awaiting a Pledge coat before masking Comments and bright red suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  4. Hi All Hi Tony, yes it looks like my grains are too large, should have gone for the bag with the chaps in the Bowler hats. Hi SUB-SAM, I've never heard of slate powder, but packing it into the gaps and adding CA is a neat idea, on my "To Do" list! Thso, as I've recently purchased a three pack of that Stynylrez primer, it seemed like a good opportunity to try them out, one each And here they are Nice, very nice, I like! The white (although you can't tell from these photos) is slightly mottled, and if it was to be finished in white, I'd probably give it another coat for evenness. As it is going to be the red target tug, I'm sure it will be fine. It looks slightly blurry in real life too, hard to focus on. The grey went on just as smooth It's probably slightly mottled too, but being light grey on light grey it doesn't show up as much. This is going to be the silver trainer. But my favourite is... That is a very satisfying paint to spray, even with my bargain basement Frankenstein setup, full coverage. (Ignore the sandy filler, I left it rather than mess up the rest of the underside trying to remove it) That's the Bagdaddy, shame to cover it up, but I think I've a P-61 Black Widow somewhere... Anyhoo, I'm going to leave them alone for a week or so as work calls me away. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  5. Hi All A change of arrangements yesterday meant I've had a couple of hours in The Lab! So, while everyone else is sunning themselves, I'm getting messy... First up, Perfect Plastic Putty. Went on well straight from the tube And with a wet finger got a nice smooth finish (those bits on the Port wing root get attention from the shaft of a dampened cocktail stick) I'll pick out those panel lines and give it a once over with the Nail Block at next opportunity. Contestant 2 is Milliput Fine. After mixing together the smallest amount I could cut off each of the white sausages (resulting in a lump the size of a pea), it was applied in a similar fashion to the PPP With the spatula dipped in water, this had more of the feel of a 'filler' and was quite thick (and I still had about 95% of the pea left), but once again the smoothing over with a wet finger brought out a pleasing finish Tidying up with a damp cotton bud also produced a thin 'slurry' that seemed to fill the finer surface marks too. Contestant 3 is then called. After a quite ridiculous attempt at making a putty by dripping CA into a mound of flour I re-read the posts, and realised CA was ran onto the model and the flour added to it. Cue CA in the gaps with a crust of flour Tapping off the flour revealed... A bit naff really. Looks like my shoe after walking on the beach. More CA and flour gave Right. I'm obviously not quite at this stage of technique mastery yet. Never mind, PPP to the rescue Thso, the results so far. CA and flour is going to need further investigation, it could be my budget ingredients or my budget experience, a further Lab booking is on the cards. Milliput Fine is wonderful stuff, smooth and pliable and able to plug the widest gaps, but loses out at this level on getting it together and wastage. The front runner, but just by a small margin, is Perfect Plastic Putty. Tails and noses added soon (hopefully), and see how they sit. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  6. Hi All Yes that's the plan! I've seen it used to great effect on other's builds (you know who you are) and am sorely intrigued. You would think! However, access to The Lab is restricted during the onset of Silly Season, so it may take longer than I'd thought too. Anyhoo, snuck in for a couple of prep sessions, and have smoothed off the major sticky-out seams Before After a quick scrape with a file and a rub down with a £1 shop nail manicure sponge And the rest of the joins treated so Overall I'm please with the results on the fuselage, and it brings out the gaps at the wing roots that will be the main focus of these experiments. Their undersides will be treated too I'll attach their tails and set too with the compounds when I'm next in. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  7. Hi All Next on the homework list is filling in gaps and general smoothing of seams. These are the subjects One of the T-20 had an open bag and the decals suffered water damage But the other two were fine (Spot the difference) I'm planning on doing one T-20 in each scheme (trainer and target tug) and the T-61 as the box art. You'll notice the economical representation of the wheel wells, and the explosion of minimalism that is the cockpit (at least they get a seat each) The riot of restraint is in full flow on the surface detail too, but this isn't about any of that, it's about this! Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  8. Hi All Thanks guys, TBH these were just thrown together for something to spray my new favourite paints onto I didn't hold out much hope for the decals (with those from the Sea Hurricane dating back to 1967!), and the newer ones I know I can get decent with Micro Sol from the "100 Years" saga, so I'm not going to press on with them. I'm most pleased with the underside of the Spitfire, the line where the black wing meets the Sky, very satisfying. At school we did a term of metalwork, and the only thing we made was a strip of tin, 2"x6" with a right angle bend at one end, flattened over edges, with another 2"x2" soldered onto the middle with it's top edge folded round a piece of wire. The sole purpose of this construction was to demonstrate that we could do these techniques, the finished piece having no other use whatsoever. I'm doing these WIPs in that sort of vein, practicing a progression of basic skills on cheap old kits before committing to ones I really want to do well. It's going to be an adventure. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  9. Hi All Just a quick couple of pics to show them as finished as they're going to be Hurricane BS colours came out well, bit of a dust magnet Decals like crepe paper but some settled nicely The Sea Hurricane done in Xtracrylix Decals looked like they were printed onto old finger nail, apart from those that shattered on contact with water. An odd colour combination? And finally that oddly coloured Spitfire (Masking! tsk) Decent decals (with a bit more application of Micro Sol) But the most important lesson learned from this project is DON'T TAKE THE MASKING OFF THE CANOPY UNTIL AFTER THE MATT COAT Never mind, every day's a school day. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  10. Hi All Hi Beard, you are quite correct in flagging up the odd colours on the Spitfire. They are the Vallejo Dark Earth and Dark Green before the BS versions came out. They look almost purple and grey to me sometimes, might do them over in the updated numbers. Either that, or they were for 3D viewing? Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  11. Hi All Got a little Lab Time and started on the Sea Huricane I mixed up a batch of Xtracrylix XA1025 RAF Dark Slate Grey with some Tamiya X-20A Thinners, about 50/50 I think as my hand slipped And it turned out ok! Off with it's undersides More tacky masking, including the canopy of the Spitfire as it's curvy and rounded And here's the Greens added. Original Vallejo 71.012 Dark Green on the left, new 71.324 BS Dark Green on the right A couple of small fragments lifted, but nothing serious Again a couple of splinters came away, probably due to no undercoat, plus my ham fisted/sausage fingered/pigs ear technique. Anyhoo, back together Here's where I am now, all three Pledged and shiny awaiting a decal frenzy Don't know what was going on with the old Vallejo colours, might have to rename them now. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  12. Hi All Upper base coats on Here we have a Hurricane in Vallejo 71.323 BS Dark Earth BS450, a Spitfire in the original Vallejo 71.029 Dark Earth FS30118, and the Sea Hurricane in Xtracrylix XA1005 RAF Extra Dark Sea BS640 (as I've a tub of that and their Slate Grey). The glaring sun on the bright white background doesn't do the colours any favours, but the BS Earth is more "coffee" and the standard earth more "chocolate". I'll see what they're like with their respective greens and try to get some overcast shots. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  13. Hi All Managed to squeeze in a small Lab session to do some masking and spraying Just the standard Black, masked with DIY masking tape. I didn't go overboard with the coats for fear of the Black creeping under the tape and it seems to have come out slightly uneven (more so in the photo), but I'm happy with that . Thanks to all for your filler pointers , I've ordered Milliput Standard (and Superfine 'cos you never know) and PPP. I have been using Vallejo Plastic Putty, but it must be an old phial because it never seems to go completely "off". A moist cotton bud dissolves it away, and with a file or sanding stick simply crumbles. I've what looks like half a jar of "Mr Surfacer 500" that came with some paints , so that will be getting an airing in another experiment, along with a left field suggestion that intrigues me... Anyhoo, baby steps with this Model Air lark are encouraging, more playtime needed. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  14. Hi All Thanks Ced, I've ordered a three pack I'm also going to get some micromesh and I need recommendations for a decent acrylic putty as mine never seems to set. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  15. Hi All Guess who won't be airbrushing Humbrol paints again in a hurry? I used "Sky Type S" 71.302 on all the undersides, six drops at a time mixed in the cup, with two drops of their Vallejo Airbrush Thinners. This was enough to do a coat of one aircraft. The grey plastic Spitfire and Hurricane took two coats, straight on, no primer And the black plastic Sea Hurricane only took one more Bang, job done! A number of things immediately occurred to me. There was no pre-mixing in a hope to get the diluted consistency right, put it straight into the cup No guessing how much paint/thinners went in, as the dropper bottles did just that, one drop at a time No need to make up too much paint and feel I had to use it all as the mix was easily replicated No messing with too much/too little paint, keep doing the 6+2 until everything's done I'm amazed at the paint's ability to stick and cover without any dramatics, no runs or pooling (are they even paint terms?) I suspect I'm still putting it on too thick, and still need to work on restraint. You are right as far as I know (ie nothing...) in my Victoria Cross experiments, now sadly devoured by PhotoTucket, the 0.3mm needle had a much more slender taper as opposed to the 0.5mm that had quite an abrupt point. I'm using the 0.3mm needle in the 0.5mm nozzle, one light lit on the compressor thing, six drops of paint and two drops of thinners, it's a whole new world. Thanks Ced, possibly a purchase fight in the future, but for now I forsee plenty of fun with this cheap one! Too many 'Bay Bargains in my (somewhat surprisingly grown out of nowhere ) mini stash, that I need to play with. Will Pledge them this week, and see how they take to masking. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve