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About ProfSparks

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  1. Hi All Hi Stuart, worms taste a bit like chicken Hi Ian, I might adjust the cowling, or I might sit the engine lower and just fix the exhausts slightly high. The Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan that I previously used is a recognised CDL lookalike, particularly for larger scales, but it didn't quite do it for me. I put on some Vallejo Model Air 71.075 Sand (Ivory) and it looks to have a bit more life about it. (It photographed a really odd colour so I tweaked it a touch to what I thought it looks like. What's with the pink!?!) Anyhoo, I'm going to give it a coat of Pledge to seal it in, perhaps try a drop of X-24 Clear Yellow in with it just because. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  2. Seen it in the daylight, don't like it . I'm off to eat worms. Cheers Steve
  3. Hi All Just like the busses, nothing for ages then two come along at once. I thought the Deck Tan looked a little grey and flat, what it needed was more of a translucent yellowish tinge. Something like Tamiya X-24 Clear Yellow cut with X-22 Clear? Hmm, poor old mule. At least it's not an Eduard mule On with the Clear Orange sometime soon (hopefully) Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  4. Hi All A brief digest of recent Lab Spasms The engine fits on its' supports But sits too high to get the exhausts on to the cylinders (I know the upper deck part isn't fully down, but it's just the way I'm holding it) This is raised slightly to clear the ports But it puts the centre off centre Regardless, office done! Not much can be seen anyway The nose of the fuselage just about fits the front cowling ring (not) But hey, this isn't about fit, it's about starting wood. Paint time And a coat of Tamiya XF-57 Buff later Looks a little brown to me, so I redid the CDL parts with XF-55 Deck Tan Cursed lighting, magnification and general shoddyness. Anyhoo, as I made little effort to blend in the cockpit decking top part to the rest of the fuselage, I thought I'd give it a different shade of wood with an XF-15 Flesh base. Can't really tell from this photo, but it is. The struts and legs got XF-77 IJN Grey. On removing the masking from round the cockpit decking, some paint was lifted from the Buff coat. "Oh my word, that is unfortunate!" I thought (paraphrasing obviously) Then I had a closer look and thought I might get away with it as wood grain? So I dabbed some off the sides, and hope to blend in some watercolour pencil marks before the Clear Orange top coat. If it doesn't pan out, then I'll know for next time. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  5. Hi All Sorry I haven't been in The Lab much lately, ramping up to Silly Season is getting in the way. Anyhoo, I've had a couple of brief sessions on this old thing with the aim of trying out the Buff / Linen undercoat for a wood finish. It's not wood on the box art, but there are a couple of the 20+ schemes (count 'em) that are Not a high part count But the engine is cute, even though most of it will be hidden away The interior gets a base coat of Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow with Ochre Yellow and Burnt Umber streaks, Clear Yellow and Orange staining, and a finish of Brown Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colour for contrast The sides are joined, and while setting the 'interior' gets some paint There it will probably stay for a while until I pass this way again. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  6. Hi All Cheers Ced, looks like I'll be ordering a set of those too... RFI here Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  7. Hi All Built mostly OOB, my first try rigging with Uschi 0,02mm and 0,01mm, WIP here Thanks for the company Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  8. Hi All Hi Ced, thanks for the links, I've ordered a large and a small biplane assembly jigs, bound to have a 1/32 and a 1/48 on the go together sometime How does that Sphere Products pin vice work, does something expand in the hole? (Doesn't it always...) Anyhoo, while finishing the stringing I managed to knock the rudder off, that order better come through quick. Wheels and whatnots And she's finished I'll try for a RFI when the weather breaks, but for now she's bagged and tagged. Thanks for your company and see you on the next one. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  9. Hi All Hi Adam, do it! No worries Ced, I'm secretly coveting your cutter and programming skills Hi billn53, that's a good idea, filed for future reference thanks Hi Marklo, one-downmanship, love it! I think that term might be replacing "Old Skool". Also, negotiations are underway to convert my paint to Tamiyaism. Anyhoo, I got the gun mounted and remembered to leave a slight gap for the engine cowling Speaking of which So, out with the rigging spiders 0,02mm for the main bracing, 0,01mm for the wheel bracing I dropped some CA into the locating holes on the upper wing and the thread sproingyness allowed the struts to flex into the right positions I continued with the rest of the tail rigging using one of those 'helping hands' things that's all crocodile clips and wing nuts. I suspect this particular 'hand' had come from a Cyberdyne Systems Model 101 Series 800 Terminator, as it grappled with, and eventually prized off, the top wing. It's now recuperating under some remedial Contacta And I'm on the hunt for one of those wooden holding jig things that have appeared on these pages occasionally. They're made from trees, much more benign. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  10. Hi All Hi Ced, thanks (and one-upmanship acknowledged and accepted ) Haha no, I had a choice of two blues, one light and one dark. As the kit decal blue is quite dark, and as I was spraying on a white background, I chose the dark blue Anyhoo, I got the wing struts and windscreen on, and while they were setting I thought I'd start a fire. Just a little one, just enough to stretch a cotton bud shaft After a couple of attempts, I produced quite a fine tube And yes, it's still a tube! (It is, honest!) I ran a black marker over it and slipped it onto some 0,03mm Uschi elastic thread When I say 'slipped', think of trying to inturbate a Midgie. I then tried a slightly longer length over 0.02mm Uschi. This wasn't as successful, the thread was less inclined to go in and I think the tube has kinked in the middle, stopping the thread passing through. Not for this build, but good to know it can be done for future projects. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  11. Hi All Well, time has come to introduce the latest piece of experimental equipment for The Lab. I don't know which one of you made me get it (and I'm not just talking about the voices in my head), but here it is. Boxed up like an online gaming artefact, it eventually assembles* into a small object of desire. It takes a couple of tries to know where the circle you're cutting out is going to end up as the motion of the handle and the blade are offset Anyhoo, discs cut for the wheels, slotted to make a cone, off to get some Vallejo Air 71.315 Tire Black. Removing the masking showed I'd been slightly off, but I'll cover the discrepancy with some dirt wash I also sprayed the tail as the supplied decal wouldn't conform round the control horns. Eduard are ahead of this and supply the tail markings as separate decals. Nice. The rest of the body got it's stickers on, and it's off to get a coat of flat on most parts. I'm leaving some slightly satin just give a touch of variation on an otherwise all over Aluminium finish. * now then, for such a relatively expensive piece of kit, I think the quality has some irregularities. The instructions don't cover or describe all the parts, and some deducing is necessary with the bolts and that little (surprisingly strong) magnet. That's it stuck to the underside of the 'top hat' piece, and the mechanics of the action are very clever. The 'top hat' screws its' brim down the extended spring coil and the cutting tip is held up in the head by the magnet. This lets you set the cut depth by screwing the hat up or down while also applying sprung pressure for the cut. The blade shaft is cylindrical and has a rounded end where it meets the magnet so it can swivel. Ingenious. However, a couple of niggles for such a clever machine. The red pointer that shows the RADIUS of the cut is very close to the ring that is used to lock and unlock the head in position. The red pointer itself doesn't have an exact location (compared with the rest of the parts) and has to be 'calibrated' by moving the head to its' innermost position, the red pointer lined up with 0 and tightened. Tightening moves the pointer slightly, so third time lucky. Unfortunately it can be easily nudged from its' calibration by locking or unlocking the head, no matter how tight the retaining screw is tightened. Also, when making concentric cuts, the body needs to be clamped to the work surface to stop it shifting when you change the setting. Oh, and remember to screw up the cutting blade clear of the masking tape before moving it too... But there are three cutting blade profiles for you to play with. Sorry for the irk. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  12. Hi All While the main parts dry, I've been messing around with the engine, prop and struts I've invested in a couple of the MRP Metallics to see what they're about. They seem to be more of a wash than a solid colour (brushed on anyway), so for my own reference these are:- Engine - Base of Stynlyrez Grey Primer, coat of MRP-F086 Burnt Metal, coat of MRP-088 Steel, touch of Tamiya Brown Panel Line Accent Color Exhaust - Base of Valleyo Game Color 72.058 Brassy Brass, wash of MRP-F084 Copper, wash of Tamiya Brown Panel Line Accent Color Prop - Base of Vallejo Game Color 72.099 Cadmium Skin, thin coats of Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange Struts - Base of Vallejo Game Color 72.099 Cadmium Skin, thin coats of Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange, wash of Tamiya Brown Panel Line Accent Color Strut Top Brackets - Base of Valleyo Air 71.054 Dark Grey Blue, coat of MRP-F088 Steel I've drilled a couple of 0,3mm holes in the tops of the struts, and I think it's possible to rig the whole shebang without the top wing in place... We shall see. Anyhoo, everything's off to get a coat of floor polish and dry overnight. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  13. Hi All Hi Ced, no need to leap! I've had no trouble with their Black and Grey primers, just the white doesn't seem to work for me. Having said that, I have sprayed them all at my regular 0.2mm @ 18psi with good results from the other two. Perhaps I'll up the mm&psi on the next one. Anyhoo, to give a touch of variation in the all over Aluminium finish, I've sprayed the 'metal' parts with Stynylrez Grey (see, smoooth) And given it all a quick blast of Vallejo Air 71.062 Aluminium It's still wet, but there is a slight difference between the two undercoat finishes (and I've missed the top of the cowl ) so the next pass will include a couple of drops of white or grey in the mix on the wooden / doped parts. Comments and suggestions elcome Cheers Steve
  14. Hi All Thanks Ian, that makes sense. I managed to put the new tubes on the little bosses that the kit parts were removed from, Eduard must have them slightly off? Anyhoo, a couple of swings and roundabouts. The parts were gathered for priming I'm going to use Stynylrez White for a smooth Aluminium finish While it was drying I started on a thinner replacement for the kit windscreen Stickytape mask Stuck on some thin clear sheet Cut out And pinged off into The Nether never to return. Onward though, the struts and prop are on their way But the Stynylrez has dried all blotchy (like it's not reaching the surface as a liquid) and runny (like it's too liquid) at the same time Only one thing for it, on with the Tamiya XF-2 White Much better, think this will be my 'go to' white primer. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
  15. Hi All Hi Howlindawg, yes I'm going to be trying the superfine Uschi line as no structural strength is needed. The halves joined up and smoothed out well, the front cowling join is covered by the gun I got the lower wing on with only the merest bead of PPP, and I drilled out some other rigging holes (see how thin the wings are!) And I also drilled out the two pipes that stick out from the forward section. However, they did not stay central and broke through, so I'm replacing them with bits of stretched cotton bud shaft A tiny spot of CA, my favourite tweezers, and only one of them pinged off into the next dimension They should be ok from a distance. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve
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