dromia

Thank you for that, it is also my inclination, "twill no doubt be close enough for crofting work.

Thank you all for the insights. I had seen the F-4G scheme as I also have the "World Air Power Spirit in the Skies" book. However I have insufficient detail as to what the changes needed actually look like, The radar reflector retractable installation is this just a panel lines job when retracted or is the some shape to the panel, Also what other changes is visible as the mostly sound internal or am I being just too optimistic. The Hasegawa version isn't really an option as I have had bad experiences in the past with their products and I don't want to do any conversion work on the new Tamiya F-4, I just want to build it and finish it to experience the engineering, fit and no filler. Just don't like the Navy schemes. When I do get round to building the Phantom version of my choice it will be the F-4K FG.Mk 1.

Thank You!

I am Dedicated vacuum form builder as back in the day I found that the injection kits needed as much filling and sanding as the vacuum formed ones and there were more interesting types vacuum formed so that was my chosen route. However having been persuaded to build Tamiya's P-38 I was suitably impressed by the fit and engineering and it was the first injection model I made that went together as I always felt an injection kit should. So I am now tempted by the impending new Tamiya release of the Phantom II. The Phantom is one of the few jets that floats my boat, however the version seem to be predominately if not exclusively US navy schemes which variations of grey and crass loud squadron trim definitely sinks my boat. So did the "B" ever wear more interestingly camouflagesque colours?

Is the PDF available from a more reputable source than fbook? Thank you for the graphic, I am just a ship dabbler mainly 1/1200 but find naval paint schemes tortuously fascinating.

I am a big fan of the Infini soft sanding sticks. Being a vacuum form builder I do a lot of sanding. I have tried most brands over the years and have to say the Flory and UMP sanders have not impressed at all as the don't last very long before loosing their edge. Seemed like a bit of a con to me. For the harder stricks I can heartily recommend the Flexi File range, good spread of grits and they just last and last, they also do "skinny" type sticks which are excellent. I also have the Infini Zebra sticks which are also very good but don't get as much use as the Flexi Files. The Infini foam backed sheets are also very good I use small pieces gripped in locking tweezers for accurate precision sanding. The Infini finer grits are excellent for beating up enamel or lacquer paint work. Combined with Vallorbe files and the ubiquitous sheets of wet and dry and I could abrade for Scotland.

I use this stuff Artool Ultra mask and find to be as good as Oramask for my needs, although I do not use those cutter things. As it comes from the best place for all things airbrush Air-craft.net an email or phone call to them could confirm or deny its suitability for such mechanised cutters as you have.

Sorry, I will not use cloud hosting so no photos.

Mine is coming from Hannants backorder, should be with me Friday. See how it sits alongside my Rareplanes model when finished.

Hello. I am a Brora man, Sutherland by name and Sutherland by location. Were you in the Wick ATC squadron? I was and went to the Golspie drills.

I will have no truck with anyone or any body that solely uses social media to communicate. I will not use them as a matter of principle. To me they are morally bereft platforms making free capital from peoples interactions. Why on earth people choose to use such corrupt and dubious things is way beyond my understanding.

I use a 3M 7500 half mask with replaceable particle and vapour filters, very comfortable and no smells. Have mine for over ten years worn almost daily and still going strong, just replace the filters when needed. I'm a glasses wearer and they sit on it fine and my Optivisor fits comfortably over the straps.

That is the same as my tang and mine has no serrations either.

Afore I got the HDPE I used DVDs, not as good as the HDPE but definitely better than glass/ceramic, acrylic perhaps? Regarding the Xurons mine just say 9180 on the tangs and they seem to be made for cutting brass, as has been said I only use them for that purpose.

The xurons you want are the 9180, they cut etch well and cleanly, however must etch manufacturers leave little space on the fret to get the cutters in to make a clean cut at the correct angle hence my preference for the craft blade and HDPE.

Yes that is the stuff, I got a couple of 4" square 1/2" thick pieces as free samples from an online supplier.

I use a round blade on a piece of HDPE (kitchen cutting boards are made from the stuff). It is stiff so as to support the piece and allow a clean cut rather than bending it but is softer than glass or ceramic so it doesn't rapidly dull the blade as ceramic and glass does.

On the round handle knives I use some Miliput to fashion a grip for my finger tips which also serves to stop it rolling.

Aye the Lochaber lads will sort you out. The only place I bother with for my airbrush needs.

Copydex, thin to desired consistency with water.

You should look at the Mr Hobby Procon range. Almost Iwata quality at friendly prices.

Britain's Swoppets range.

I use Copydex, none of the issues described but all the benefits of a liquid mask.

A.S.Handover for all things brush related. Their pure Kolinsky sable water colour brushes, series 33, 66 & 101 are awesome and my own use brushes. Equal to W&N series 7 for quality at a far friendlier price. AS Handover

Iwata or Mr Hobby/Procon! Nothing else comes near for quality, performance and choice.