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dromia

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Posts posted by dromia

  1. None of the suggestions have worked for me, the closest I got was this:

     

    "HTTP Error 404.0 - Not Found

    The resource you are looking for has been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.

    Most likely causes:

    The directory or file specified does not exist on the Web server.

    The URL contains a typographical error.

    A custom filter or module, such as URLScan, restricts access to the file.

    Things you can try:

    Create the content on the Web server.

    Review the browser URL.

    Create a tracing rule to track failed requests for this HTTP status code and see which module is calling SetStatus. For more information about creating a tracing rule for failed requests, click here.

    Detailed Error Information:

    Module   IIS Web Core

    Notification   MapRequestHandler

    Handler   StaticFile

    Error Code   0x80070002

    Requested URL   http://www.aim72.co.uk:80/pictures/ge48300_2.jpg

    Physical Path   e:\home\aim72\pictures\ge48300_2.jpg

    Logon Method   Anonymous

    Logon User   Anonymous

    More Information:

    This error means that the file or directory does not exist on the server. Create the file or directory and try the request again.

    View more information »"

     

    Whatever that may mean?

  2. I put it down to a marketing trick to make their pads seem finer.

     

    See here: Grit tables.

     

    Column 2 is the pads usually used in plastic modelling.

     

    Column 5 is the US grit standards that we are more commonly used to.

     

    Column 6 is the european grit standards that can be had here on occasion.

     

    I'm not saying the pads don't work but they are expensive for what they are and seem a tad disingenuous to me.

     

    There are cheaper alternatives of at least equal efficacy.

    • Like 1
  3. Yes I am a MAC valve advocate and user but don't like them on the airbrush where they are clumsy, restricting and a spilt paint magnet with the exposed  threads being a chew on to clean.

     

    My MAC valve is fitted to the quick connect on the air hose like this Air volume control quick connect. so that I have the benefits of the valve on all my airbrushes.

     

    A help in appreciating its uses is to remember that it does not control the pressure the regulator on your compressor does that, the MAC valve controls the volume of air going into the airbrush, regardless of the MAC valve setting the air will always be at the pressure set on the regulator.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  4.  I am a confirmed Iwata user my current main use airbrush Is a Custom Micron CM-B(2). Which I am completely happy with.

     

    I will not use water based paints, my paints of choice are enamel with some cellulose brands.

     

    I had a Harder and Steinbeck for a year or so but could not get on with it at all. I worked OK but I found it clumsy, awkward and agricultural to use.

     

    When looking for a fine spray airbrush the choice was between the Iwata CM-B or the Procon Boy PS 771, I chose the Iwata because it was more compact and didn't have that awkward MAC valve up front.

     

    However the Procon Boy parts , needle and nozzle, fit my CM-B with only a very slight, not noticeable unless using a eye glass degradation at the edge of the spray, so the Procon Boy airbrushes seem to be as near as damn it Iwatas.

     

    There fore I would suggest that you consider the Mr Hobby Procon boy range, Iwata quality at less cost.

     

  5. 55 minutes ago, Dr. Quack said:

    Another vote for W&N Galeria varnish. Brushes on well, and can be thinned with a little water if required. Also airbrushes nicely, if you decide to take the plunge! Comes in nice big containers which last for ages.

    Q

    Concur.

  6. In my experience BMF seems to have a shelf life, sheets that have been stored for while, say over nine months, either in the stockist inventory or in your own stock it losses its adhesion.

     

    Bit of a lottery really as you never know how long it has been around before your purchase.

     

    Stuart Semple's mirror chrome is very good but is very expensive as you seem to be paying for the packaging and the "trendy arty" presentation.

     

    Modo chrome (Malaysia) and Gaia Notes (Japan) both do excellent chromes and seem to be celebrated by the Gunpla devotees, both are hard to get in the UK and can prove expensive if bought alone from abroad but if compared to the Stuart Semple's product then not that expensive.

    • Like 1
  7. I find it needs spraying at high pressure in my experience, I go at 30-35psi in my Mr Hobby .5 airbrush.

     

    I am a devoted enamels and cellulose paint user but I am happy to swap 'tween MrSurfacer and Stynlrez for priming as Stynlrez when down behaves as well as an enamel or cellulose primer.

     

    Interestingly I have a bottle of the UMP branded Stynlrez and that appears to have gone "off" it has lost it sticking ability, won't feather when sanded and just peels away like all the rest of those pathetic water-based "acrylics". The real Stynlrez which is as old as the UMP stuff still works as advertised as does the One Shot I have but that is newer about a year old.

    • Thanks 1
  8. Moving to "acrylics" will still need the same respiratory protection as you use with enamels. Water based "acrylics" may not smell as bad as enamels or be as toxic but they do create aerial particles that means an extraction fan and a particulate mask are still needed.

     

    Combine that with the weaknesses of "acrylic" as a paint compared to enamels as has been described above and for me at least there is no gain in using "acrylics" and much to be gained by using enamels especially with the advent of good odourless enamel thinners like those sold by Colourcoats, I use Naphtha for cleaning and some thinning which is cheap when bought by the gallon this again has little smell so they don't disturb the domestic harmony.

     

    I started using Aeromaster "acrylics" when they first appeared in the 90s and felt then that they had some merit but left the hobby shortly afterwards. On getting back into it again a few years ago I went with "acrylics" for the first year but was so disappointed with their performance that I reverted to my enamels and have never looked back.

     

    They can be made to work as many "acrylic" painted examples on here testify but the faff on to get something almost as good as enamels to me just wasn't worth the effort or expense.

     

    I do however use from time to time Stynlrez primer, if all "acrylics" were like this then that would be a step change for them.

     

    Stynlrez is sold re-labeled by UMP as the Ultimate primer and by AK as One Shot.

  9. I have ordered one of each, been longing for a flea kit for years and the Aeroclub kit is very elusive and sells for funny money when they do appear.

     

    There is a photo etch example which I wouldn't touch being photo etch adverse.

     

    I have ordered these with a little trepidation as cyanoacrylates are the work of the devil and will not be used by me so quick cure epoxy will be my route, the construction seems simple enough, famous last words, but the site says that the resin is brittle so getting  pieces free from their tress could be fraught.

     

     

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