dromia
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Posts posted by dromia
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Obviously we see it differently.
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Too soon.
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5
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I have been using the Bambi silent air BB24V for the past three years and have found no fault with it, quiet, reliable and the 5 gallon air tank meaning that it only need to work occasionally.
https://bambi-air.co.uk/products/budget-range-silent-air-compressors/
Not the cheapest but worth every penny and one of my better purchases, I heartily recommend it.
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When I was a child I was sent to learn the bagpipes, you started of on the practice chanter with a weak reed and a mouth piece.
Once you had learned the notes, could read the music and had learned a few tunes you then progressed to the bagpipe itself.
For this you used a "goose" which was a full set of pipes with the drones blocked off so that you could keep the bag filled more easily.
Once you had the bag filled you then gave the bag a punch or push under the drones 'tween them and the chanter to get the reed working.
I dully filled the bag and gave it a punch as instructed and the reed started, it was so loud that I got such a fright that I dropped the pipes and bolted under the stairs, much to the delight and amusement of my tutor.
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Swede is Swedish turnip, called neeps in Scotland. Also known as rutabaga is the orange fleshed form of root brassica it is a relation to the white fleshed turnip which is called turnip. So swede or neeps is the correct name for the orange fleshed type usually accompanying haggis.
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We have Staggis (My own home made "haggis" made from venison and pluck from red deer I have shot my self) along with home grown mashed swede and home grown Golden Wonder tatties with home made rowan jelly. All washed down with copious amounts of locally made Clynelish whisky.
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Thank you all, pre-order placed.
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Any insights as to the quality of the information therein.
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Yes looks like it, I get mine in pint tubs.
They do a UV version as well which works just as good.
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I welcome this model being a big Buccaneer fan, I have four of the original 1/48 Airfix models, two built and two in the trove.
I have this one on pre-order and I am looking forward to it with relish.
As in all things the price is what the price is, rabbiting on about it here twill change nothing. If you see no value in the model at that cost then walk away and spend on something you do see value in.
For the record, the four previous kits I have, had no fuselage warping although over their length they lost some rigidity and care was needed when matching them together.
Although not an Airfix maven other than for the nostalgia, they have excelled themselves this year with 1/48 Anson and Buccaneer which I am sure will be buildable and any design shortcomings will be readily addressed. Poor QC and the model(s) will be returned as not fit for purpose as with any other purchase
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Don't worry I shall continue to use the word with gay abandon, as what I know it to mean.
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Must be aimed at the Steam Punk market.
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I use a set of parallel faced locking pliers lined with cork.
As has been said first class abrasives also help a lot, I use Valorbe files, (various cuts as needed) exclusively for this and any other filing task.
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There is no noticeable difference 'tween two when sprayed.
Mac valves have their uses but it all depends on your spraying style, I do a lot of close up low pressure spraying so find controlling the volume of air a handy addition. However I don't like Mac valves on my air brushes as it makes them more clumsy to me and are a paint and spills magnet. I have my Mac valve on the quick connect of my air hose so that I have that feature on whatever airbrush I am using.
Yes a .2 and a .5 would cover most bases I mainly use a .18 Custom micron for all my work up to 1/24 th scale, My .2s and .3s hardly get touched now, if I need to get a lot of paint down on a large area then I use my .5 Procon Ps 290.
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Am I right in assuming that you need to hold the container whilst it vibrates?
I have one that I got free from a model shop for an order over a certain amount, that one holds the container in a "V" restrained by an elasticated strap so it is a hands free operation. Much prefer that way. My old Sans Peur coffee grinder was retired recently and you had to hold the switch down for it to grind, my new hands free grinder was a revelation. Life is to short for holding things that don't need to be.
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Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned at least 1/2 to 1/2 with Mr Levelling thinners.
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As above Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned to at least 1/2 n 1/2 with Mr Levelling thinner more like 1/3rd - 2/3rds.
I spray W&N Galleria varnishes straight from the container no need to thin.
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My bottle of Ultimate went "off" after a year or so, it would not adhere. A bottle of named Stynylrez which I have had for longer is just fine.
I tend to use Mr Surfacer 1500 now thinned 50/50 with Mr Levelling Thinner as the bottle of Ultimate has shaken my confidence in Stynlylrez, if indeed the ultimate stuff is unadulterated Stynylrez.
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Manufacturer?
Scale?
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I would highly recommend Mr Rinaldi's publications and videos.
I am that impressed with his work and approach that I even subscribe to his Patreon account.
His works are focussed on his method and approach as opposed to the named products books which are there to promote their wares.
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Are they only available via facebook?
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Great.
Skip being delivered the morrow so I can clear the bench for it.
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Phwoarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!
Order placed.
This is the way.
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Enamels with a good thinner dry ready for a next coat in around 15 minutes.
The best proprietory thinner is ColourCoats which is excellent an almost odour free, after that nahptha which is very cheap an again almost oourless, Leveling thinners as has been said work well to but can make the paint a bit fragile in my experience I speculate that their very fast drying properties don't let paint cure properly.
I almost use enamels exclusively and have no issues spraying it through and Iwata .18 nozzle, I start with a 1/2 and half dilution an go from there.
Ad-hoc Ukraine GB?
in Group Build Chat 2022
Posted
I think it is too soon for this GB and you don't.