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Everything posted by dromia

  1. I use the insides of the wings, tailplaines and fuselage of the model I am currently building if I want to test any paint, painting or water slide transfers.
  2. From the Hannants web site: "Bristol Beaufort Mk.I We have received a partial delivery of this kit. Unfortunately we have not been sent enough to satisfy even half of the Backorders we have. We will be despatching Backorders based on the date they were placed on Backorder. We are sorry but there will not be any kits on general sale or for trade customers probably until June."
  3. I replied to yor original email by return telling you that I did not have a camera and images would be a problem. I eventually got someone, the post lady actually, and then there was the chew on to get it onto my pc especially in these covid times. Anyway the images were emailed to you this morning, to the email address you emailed me from so if you haven't had my emails then I suggest that you check your junk folder. My email is adamatpukkabundhooksdotcom. It would be a lot easier if you had sent sent me a post paid return slip and I sent the offending book back to you.
  4. Thank you for the link, yes it brings back memories. The man leaning on the hand cart in the Brora South Box photo is Ian Weatherspoon he was in my class in school and is now long dead. I've tried the netty myself and there is indeed a paucity of information on the line, I used to travel it regularly going back and forth from Brora to Edinburgh whilst at university. I think I will give the railway forums a miss as I am reducing my internet use and only visit three forums of differing interests now a days, and rarely follow links but I am glad that I followed the link you posted. Some very nice steam engine photos but alas I know not what I am looking at. If they went through Brora I would have seen them as my mother used to run the Menzies kiosk on the platform and I spent school holidays playing around the station. I was rather hoping that some one had written an authoritative tome on the line as print is my much preferred medium. I do have stuff on its history but little on the mechanics of the railway.
  5. As a child I still remember the steam trains passing through Brora and the fascination they held for me. In winter I used to stand with my father at the door watching the evening trains pass and the excitement as the cab lit up when the fireman opened the fire door to shovel in some coal. Anyway I have always had a hankering to make static models of the engines and rolling stock used on this line in the last days of steam. My knowledge of railways is cursory at best and I have no idea of the engines and rolling stock types used on that line so any information or information source about this would be welcomed. If there are any model kits of these then that would indeed be a bonus for me and perhaps prompt me into the realms of railway modelling.
  6. Purchased this book on preorder late last year from Valiant Wings and now having had a chance to read the book I have noticed that some pages are missing P. 113-128 and in their place pages 97-112 are duplicated. I have contacted Valiant Wings about this and am awaiting their response. Just curious if anyone else who has bought this book has had similar issues?
  7. There were people using it, or trying to use it as there was little feedback. No doubt 'twas the embrace of farcebook that led to that, forums do work as this place shows and as an programme have pluses over farcebook and the like especially as repository. All forums really lack to make them truly workable and fulfil their potential are decent search functions, when someone gets that right then nothing will shine a light on forums as knowledge repositories. I suspect no-one in IPMS saw it as important so they let it wither on the vine. Why does have some negative criticism about what I see as failings in an organisation have to be griping. I have no doubt that the people running it give up a lot of their time just as the things I run take up a lot of my time. Large gatherings of people crushed in does not suit me and nauseates me so I don't go, I gave it a try no more than that I can do. Obviously it suits the masses as they turn out for it and good luck to them and you if you enjoy it. My observation is how I perceive its relevance to me as a modeller based on my attempts to engage with the organisation which has not been very good, other people experience might be different but my view is still just as valid. I did post on here to praise the magazine so I do give credit where credit is due.
  8. A little bit of use even if it is a struggle at first should wear that in. Or maybe a little lube as you seem to think, vaseline is as good as any. Personally I don't think that good enough from Harder and Steenbeck, the days of new owners breaking in equipment is long gone. and if it was me I would return it for one that worked as advertised. Hope it sorts itself out to your satisfaction
  9. From my experience a sticking air valve and or trigger is one that needs a good clean. I never lube my airbrushes as I find they work best without it, it is not as though the moving part are under much stress I do aim to keep them scrupulously clean though. There should be nothing in the machining and assembly of the parts that should cause sticking, if lubing helps then you are just treating a symptom rather than the cause, unless Harder and Steenbeck are even more agricultural and rougher than I remember, gave up on them a while ago now.
  10. It is excellent and the only thing of value that comes from IPMS membership especially now that they have given up on their forum and gone farsebooking which excludes member like me who will have nothing to do with such unprincipled platforms. Their decal bank is also moribund. The SIGs seem almost secretive. The magazine however is worth the membership especially as the whole model magazine world has gone to hell on a hurley. Went to Telford twenty years ago or so and you can keep it, that many people crowded into one place is for me unbearable never been to another model show after that one and only far from enjoyable experience. It is in a remote part of the country for me as well and the journey there and back was fraught and just added insult to injury. Still keep the membership for the jewel in its very tarnished crown the magazine, best regular modelling read in the country.
  11. Again look at the Procon range say the PS 274. They seem to be Iwata's in all but name. My main airbrush is an Iwata Custom Micron CM-B and it is exceptional and robust, the Procon PS-771 is supposed to be just as good the only reason I went for the Iwata was I wanted a more compact lighter brush without that clumsy MAC valve up front. Any way just for the hell of it I had an order in with Air-craft.net and decided to order the Procon PS-771 nozzle to see if it would fit the Iwata. Yes it did with no problem and functioned almost as well as the Iwata nozzle, bearing in mind that this airbrush sprays very very fine with much finesse, the difference was marginal and only really noticeable as some raggedness on the periphery of the spray when doing the finest work and not noticeable for most of its work. That was with the original Iwata 0.18 needle as well Bearing in mind how finicky airbrushes can be and especially the mythical status of fine tolerances and needle/nozzle mating that the Custom Microns have gained this shows that if Procons aren't Iwatas and Iwata's aren't Procons then they are pretty damned close on the internals so as to make hardly any difference. So if you are an Iwata devotee like myself then I don't think you will be selling yourself short looking at the Procon range.
  12. I use a Bambi BB24V Silent Air Compressor. Aye the Procons are not the cheapest but then the superior quality costs a bit more, I suppose it depends on how much hammer it is going to get as that is what sorts out the men from the boys. The 290 is built like a tank, the needle is more like a knitting needle than an airbrush needle, the fan head does a genuine looking fan pattern to my uneducated eye and give a fine finish. It does hose the paint on though and you need to keep it moving, I retrospect that for my needs I suspect that the PS275 would have sufficed admirably. It should be remembered that needle size across makes is a poor comparator when it comes to spraying performance and one makes .3 could equal another makes .5. I got the handle when I ordered the airbrush and after receiving it I felt 'twas a nice but unnecessary purchase as holding by the connection and hose was very comfortable which I suspect is due to it greater overall bulk, I use my second finger on the trigger, but then I don't have grip issues yet. It is never easy to get the critical pre purchase experience that choosing an airbrush really needs, a hands-on side by side comparison, which this current pandemic situation makes nigh impossible. Good luck in your search and I appreciate the strictures of finances but I am confident that if you did manage to stretch to the Procons you would not be disappointed
  13. I would recommend the Procon PS275, Iwata quality at a friendly price. Air-craft.net quote £125.00 I use the larger PS 290 for a lot of work and it has .5 needle/nozzle, the 275 has the .3. They are top mount gravity feed so easier to keep clean than a side cup type. The finesse I can get from the 290 with the trigger and its "1 1/2" action with the .5 needle/nozzle never fails to impress me, the .3 should be just about perfect for most uses. I got the 295 to compliment my 0.18 airbrush hence the big bore for doing 1/32 primers and "varnishes", the quality of atomisation is exceptional with enamels and lacquers.
  14. Just to say that I found my Iwata 018 far easier to spray fine lines with than my Iwata Hi-Line CP-CH which will also spray a pretty fine line the ).18 CM-B does it far easier as the sweet spot on the trigger is far easier to find and hold so it makes keeping that spray a doddle and you can just concentrate on your hold rather than your hold and keeping the spray right. The CM does seem to be designed for fine spraying more than the larger needled Iwata. Just as buying an airbrush won't instantly give you a fine finish however with the CM_B doing fine lines with ease came straight away it must be its ergonomics and a trigger than has bigger sweet spot on Its travel.
  15. I use a 0.18 Iwata airbrush and going small from 0.2 has been a revelation to my airbrushing and it gets used for every thing 'cept "varnishing" and priming. And yes with the right paint will give very fine lines, the issue is are you steady enough of hand to make use of the facility, this is where I am concentrating my efforts to spray sans masking those 1/72 scale seat belts. For me these small nozzled airbrushes and enamel paints were created in heaven and were made for our game, I have just done the paintwork over black and dark grey primed with mottled undercoats on the Special Hobby's Tempest V all done with 0.18 nozzle and was in no way disadvantaged. I like to spray small and close and as has been said low air pressure and volume are key as well as paint thickness which is true of all spray paint. I use enamels almost exclusively with the odd foray into lacquers and they work exceptionally well in the small nozzled airbrush, for me "Acrylics" are a fiddle on too far with too fragile a finish to make them suitable model paints. I have never tried them in the 0.18 as I have too much respect for my airbrush and models, to all those who use these paints with aplomb good luck to you, so I would heed the advice given above if "acrylics" are your chosen poison as I suspect from experience there is something in what is said. Using a small nozzled airbrush has now made airbrushing an integral part of the build rather than just a covering/finishing tool.
  16. Not I, Terry Riley. G-ATKC as portrayed by yourself was used on the cover of the band Curved Air's 1976 album the Best of Curved Air. Curved Air took their name from Terry Riley's 1969 ground breaking album " A Rainbow in Curved Air".
  17. I have some sympathy with those foreign companies being asked to act as unpaid tax collectors and I certainly wouldn't do it in fact I make sure in my business that my turn over never breaches the vat threshold by stopping trading for that year if it comes close. Getting vat back on what I buy just isn't enough to offset the chew on of doing the bidding of the tax overseers. There was system in place before called customs whose job it was to intercept incoming packages and apply vat and duty on behalf of the government, the PO got involved by paying these costs and then holding your goods hostage 'till it was paid and then charging you for the "service". In the past when the exchange rate was better I used to bring in a lot of stuff from the US and over the course of three years only one package in four was stopped and had the correct vat and duty applied, all packages were sent with an honest customs declaration as to value, content and postage as I dealt with reputable companies but Customs failed to collect. All my prices were set at having paid what was due, this then gave me a moral dilemma about pricing for anticipated cost against pricing for real cost, at one point I actually contacted customs to say a package had come through without attracting the levies and to say that I wasn't taken seriously by customs is an understatement. In the end I priced at actual cost, which again caused customer issues when stuff was stopped and vat and duty charged and prices went up for the contents of that shipment. Whilst I may not like taxes they are the law of the land and must be paid and the only way a tax can be in any way fair is if it is applied evenly. The previous system did not and now we have this situation. Yes I am sure there is a lot of fraud as well with untrue declarations but at the end of the day enforcement is the only way stamp such practices out, I still think this a bit wrong for governments to be foisting their tax collecting duty onto foreign third parties, 'twill not effect the ebay's of this world and as always with such things it is the honest little person and business that suffers as a consequence.
  18. At the time of issue they were decidedly quick drying alongside the enamels mainly gloss, in those days, again I suspect that 'twas their thinness that that helped. At least as quick drying as the Colourcoats paint, seem to remember certain colours drying more quickly than others but again that could have been the weather. They were amazing paints, they went on thin but covered in one coat, self leveling with nary a brush mark and an amazing matt finish, you soon learned about the need for stirring as it went on blotchy if you didn't give them enough wrist time, I can still remember my dismay with the dark earth I had put on an Airfix Anson insufficiently stirred and the dark patches that ensued. Lesson learned and I have stirred the soul out of my paints ever since. I still have stocks of the Authentic Colour and break a tin out now and then and they are just as good as I remember them, from my experience they were the best model paint ever made before or since.
  19. I certainly don't rush to cover after panting, I am no speed painter. I usually leave a couple of days 'tween colours not just enamels but all paints as I like to spend some time with a finish ensuring I am happy with it afore moving onto the next colour. Having said that I put a top coat of Colour coats down yesterday and quiet happily laid oramask masks on half a hour later to check that I had left enough overlap for the neck colour and they came away fine with no paint lift so I would have been happy to spray onto that. I suspect that some of the things that has contributed to the drying time story about enamels is back in the days when we all brush painted and laid it down thick using well thinned enamels with a quality thinner via and airbrush must surely help speed up its drying process. Also variable thinners especially DIY style white spirit doesn't help as some of the volume stuff out there is awful for thinning enamels, that is why I moved to naphtha as it seem to be a far more consistent product. Regarding the smell for me and this could be an age thing, if I open a bottle of Mr levelling thinner it stinks, if I open a bottle of white spirit it stinks, If I open a bottle of Colourcoats thinner or Naphtha it doesn't smell to my notice or to mt families notice. Not saying doesn't smell but for me it is not at all noticeable so definitely far more user friendly even if not totally odour free.
  20. "The choice of thinner is the key, not all white spirit is the same. Colourcoats do an excellent odour free enamel thinner, I use nahptha for most on my thinning and works very well and is touch dry in 15 minutes and I am happy to mask and paint over in half an hour. Works with my Colourcoats, Humbrol, Xtracolour and Precision paints enamels." Colour Coats thinner works as above and not just with Colour Coats enamels, I suspect it is naphtha based as well going by its similarity to naphtha but only surmising on that.
  21. Just an adjunct to that with the dark sea grey I could have used hand held mottle stencils if so then that would have been a time when "hosing it on" would have worked fine to get sufficient build up in a pass or two. Hand held stencil work is no conducive to multiple coats if you want the colour in the same place.
  22. No I am not saying that at all, it builds up fine on large areas. I have no issue with building up thin paint layers and use it most of the time for my final finish coats especially as it allows my to make the most of my mottled undercoats. Here is an example of when its thinness works against it, I am currently working on a late war RAF camouflage scheme on a Special Hobby 1/32 Tempest V. I like to mottle undercoat over a black primer before building up the final coat. I started mottling with azure blue on the black went down fine then I wanted to put down some dark sea grey and it was just so thin that I couldn't see where I'd been and if I had got the effect I wanted, sure for coverage it would have built up fine into a nice final coat, but for one shot mottling its viscosity just wasn't right, a similar grey from Mr Colour was thinned a bit thicker and it worked fine going down as well as the MRP but just that bit thicker so that I could see what I was doing and where I'd been on the first pass.
  23. Exactly my point there are times when hosing it on is what is required just as there are times when building up thin coats is what is required, I have thinned MRP even further to get those very thin ghost coats. My point is that MRP is very thin to start with so limits your ability to choice how thin your paint is so less flexible than Mr Colour which is thicker to start with so has more opportunity for getting just the right ratio of paint to thinner for your needs for a particular task..
  24. Aye this enamels smell and long drying time is another internet fallacy. Like the need for a gloss varnish for water slide transfers. The choice of thinner is the key, not all white spirit is the same. Colourcoats do an excellent odour free enamel thinner, I use nahptha for most on my thinning and works very well and is touch dry in 15 minutes and I am happy to mask and paint over in half an hour. Works with my Colourcoats, Humbrol, Xtracolour and Precision paints enamels. Dabbling with cellulose paints like MRP and Mr Colour at the moment, good paint but the thinner does stink, I have a good extraction booth and wear a particulate/vapour mask as a matter of course when working but one whiff of the cellulose thinner and I get a cough so nasty stuff but good paint, the MRP is bit on the thin side so limited to certain uses, Mr Colour is thicker, so much more versatile for thining to the consistency for the particular task. Gave up on "acrylics" (another misused and confusing internet term) I am talking the water based paints here, as a fiddle on too far, finicky, prone to tip dry, fragile, and creates a nasty dust when sprayed so although less smell a mask is still essential. Just do a search and see all the "fixes" for using water based acrylics and that tells you that they are not plain sailing.
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