dromia

In the dim and distant past when I used to waste my life on CA glue I used to use a straw and gently blow onto the setting glue to speed up its setting. Evidently moisture is an accelerant for CA and breath carried enough to get it cured, an old technique used by black powder cartridge shooters. They use a blow tube to blow down the barrel after firing and their breath carries enough moisture to keep the fouling soft 'tween shots.

I have had a similar experience, ordered, paid for the products then nothing. All subsequent emails enquiring about order status were ignored, about ten weeks later the order finally arrived with not so much as a thank or sorry for the delay, no explanation. Poor communications is totally unacceptable nowadays and I will never purchase any of their products again, shame as they do some interesting stuff. However if my order isn't important enough to them to bother communicating with me then I take my custom to a reputable company. If he only wants to communicate via farcebook (which I will not use on moral grounds) then he won't get my custom and he should down his web page and move totally to farcebook as this hybrid approach isn't working for customers.

I really like that effect. You can buy it in a tin??? WOW! You need to thin your paint to the conditions. Siphon air brush. Thickish paint (usually thin enamel 50/50). Propellant can as air source. All in a cold shed. Siphon airbrushes need more air pressure than gravity to suck the paint up, the thicker the paint the more pressure you will need. Propellant cans are not very satisfactory, no effective way of controlling the pressure and in the cold they put out even less pressure. Standing in a dish of warm water is also recommended practice for them. I suspect that the finish is also effected by spraying in the cold and then warming up suddenly to dry. Then again with Humbrol's dodgy reputation it could just be rubbish paint. You have a lot of variables to address one at a time to find the cause.

They will have to do better quality control with food products than their abysmal "no QC" policy on their kits!

The James Garner TV series?

It seemed like the Bridges at Toko Ri story line with a splash of Redtails thrown in. The US film industry at its mundane best. I do like watching aeroplanes flying and releasing ordnance though.

I am a confirmed CM-B v2 user and currently am running 3 for differing paint types. See here for my initial experiences: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235070771-iwata-custom-micron-cm-b-v2/#comment-3638533 The Pro Con air brushes are also very good and I have a 770 which sprays very nearly as well as the Micron but to me is far more clumsier in use, I don't like the flow valves on my airbrushes having mine on my hose, the large cup is also clumsy and I never need that much paint when using the 0.18 needle, the Micron just fits my hand so much better and is much easier to wield so the 770 hardly gets touched now. The 771 needles do work in the Micron with a slight edge degradation which in most modelling circumstances is not an issue.

My preferred liquid glue is MEK, I then make my own thicker viscosity cement by dissolving pieces of runner in the MEK. Gave up on tamiya extra thin year ago as it was no use for any serious work as it just led to sprung seams. My preferred commercial liquid cement is MEK PAK far superior to the Tamiya in strength of bond. I mainly use cement of a consistency a little thicker than the current crop of tube cements, the liquid stuff gets used far less.

Seeing as it is a question about paint then the Paint section would seem be the most appropriate place to pose these questions.

Aye it is an add on, however I persevered and soon got the hang of it. The more I used the more I used, if you get my meaning.

I use and love my optivisor fitted with DA-5 lenses. For when I really need to get a very close view I use the loupe fitted. It just turns down over one eye, in my case the right eye, and I get all the magnification I need. The focal plan is very shallow and focal distance is around 2 1/2"-3". Downside is the magnification is only on one eye but I find it fine for those times I need the magnification. Using a paint brush is no issue being off the the side of my right eye. Saves me changing lenses or buying another visor.

The Waverly is where? Many's the happy day as a bairn I went "doon the water" on the Waverly.

My Inllab Vortex shaker has had nigh on daily use for a year and is still going as when bought. Looks like they are currently going for around £48 on ebay, if you use such places. INTLLAB Vortex Shaker

I have one of the nail lacquer shakers and not in pressed as it take ages to mix the paint. I then sprang for an Intllab vortex shaker and it is now my go to mixer, works with everything even my preferred enamels which have settled semi solid in the bottom, a couple of BBs in the tin also helps. With tins and non dropper style paint bottles there is a knack to how you hold it on the shaker to get it to work but it is easily acquired. I still use the badger stirrer as it excellent as well but have always found it wastefull of paint. Tamiya paint stirrers also get used a lot as they are convenient sometimes and soon gets the paint amalgamated if you use a steady stirr

Tube glue for me as first choice, I find the liquid cements especially that extra thin stuff , it has let me down too often, too weak for most joints leading to sprung seams and parts dropping off and yes I always ensure a plastic to plastic contact face. MEKPAK is the best commercial liquid cement I find. Trouble is all the current tube glues today are still a bit too watery for me, I do have a supply of the old Airfix tubes whose viscosity is about right but as supply of such things I finite I now make my own by dissolving clear plastic runners in MEK, now I can make glue of any viscosity and be happy with a secure bond

Like most of the features on this dilapidated site they come and go on a whim.

Where I can I use HGW wet transfers.

They have one?!?!?!?!

Get Xylene, sold by the gallon on the internet. I use it for cleaning my lacquer use airbrushes.

Will you be getting their Airacobra P-39 in stock as well?

Any recommendations for reference books on the 707?

Where does "Eau de Nil" sit, if at all, in this discussion?

Copydex. Never had a problem with the stuff.

File rather than a sanding stick, if only one the Vallorbe 1/2 round No2 cut needle file. Better than the sticks for rounded surfaces. Ditch the ruler and or the sprue nippers as a decent razor saw is an essential for me. Round nose rather than needle nose tweezers, a better compromise for differing tasks.

Air-Craft.net for all you airbrushing needs, quality braided hoses and connects available. Air-Craft.net airbrush hoses.