dromia
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Posts posted by dromia
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Aye as well as the snobbery of the airbrushing world.
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Excellent quality for the price, has to be one of the best airbrushes buys yet.
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In approaching Mission paints think gouache.
If I want a robust surface for lathering washes and universal panel lining on then I use my trusty enamels.
I am no fan of the current crop of water based "acrylic" model paints as I find them all fragile and finicky to apply, I do find Mission an exceptionally easy paint to spray. Mission being the most water soluble of them all when used without the poly, is this very quality that allows finishes no other model paint can come near achieving so it has a place on my bench, the only water based model paint I use.
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I have never said it would, it is a water colour and will not stand re-wetting and will run, wipe off if aqueous liquids are applied over it. IPA is real killer on it.
Oil paints, enamels are fine for washes, rendering etc.
As I have already said Mission's customer care and website do them and us no favours. Not the only paint manufacturer to fall into this category.
With the poly additive however the paint then becomes more impervious to aqueous liquids, perhaps this is what they mean?
I have nothing to do with Mission but once I understood there paints qualities and saw it for what it is, an organic water based paint sans poly additive, then managing its use became quiet simple.
I have never regarded Mission as an "acrylic" whatever that may mean in the current modelling lexicon.
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8 hours ago, Casey said:
I did the following:
I tried Mission Models paint on a drawdown 'pure', with original Mission Models poly addon and with Createx 4030 (25% by volume)
I did a thin drawdown, 1 mil paint film using wire rod, to give the paint largest chance to dry. Then I let it dry for 24 hours. You can see how thin the paint had became after adding a poly addon.
I've then placed microsol red (on the left) and pure distilled water (on the right) for 10 seconds and then wiped it clean with a cotton bud (without pressure, just wipe it clean)
Here is Mission Models + original Poly addon on the left, Mission Models + Createx 4030 on the right.
I did the new photo to on same light/angle to show that the difference between them is rather small - MM poly is a bit thicker. The color difference from the next photo is because the upper photo as done at incandesent light not daylight.
Previous photos are in spoiler, they suggest larger difference between MM poly and Createx due to light angle difference. Those are done in daylight
Mission Models + Mission Models Poly
Mission Models + Createx 4030 poly addon
And here is pure Mission Models without any addons
This photo was made in daylight.
I am sorry, but this is not an acrylic paint if after 24 hours I am able to wipe it clean when having a drop of water on it.
It looks like MM Poly addon or Createx 4030 is pretty much a requirement to make this product resilient (like a normal acrylic paint should), based on the test above.
"It is an organic water based paint and like all good water colours it will not stand re-wetting. The poly however turns it into a polyurethane paint if that is what you require."
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I use clear kit runner bits dissolved in MEK, then car body filler glazing putty- Holts knifing putty, 3M Acryl glazing putty and Impa Stopper Finissage for the finest finish, finally Miliput for big filling jobs.
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Mission Model Paints are indeed made by Createx and their products do seem compatible.
I haven't tried their polyurethane addition with Mission as I rarely if ever add poly as it stops the very attributes that make Mission so attractive for me.
I do add Liquitex flow aid as it makes this creamy paint smooth as butter but still retaining the matt finish.
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I just love the paint but it does need understanding and isn't really compatible with the chemical formulaic approach that dominates the hobby.
It is an organic water based paint and like all good water colours it will not stand re-wetting. The poly however turns it into a polyurethane paint if that is what you require.
For me however it is its water solubility that makes it such a favourite, it is its erasability, scratching, burnishing qualities that I find so useful in achieving to my mind realistic finishes that the slathering on rubbing of washes, panel lining etc fail to give. Although you can do this over Mission with oil based paints/enamels if that is your desire.
To maintain the paints integrity then other chemicals should be kept well away from Mission paint especially Isopropyl alcohol, wiping down with this stuff afore applying the paint is a no no, don't use IPA for cleaning your Mission paint airbrush, Createx 5168 airbrush cleaner works well with Mission product to no detrimental effect.
Only use Mission's own brand thinner or water to thin, especially if using the primer which needs Mission's thinner to activate it.
Mission likes heat so I dry off the paint with a hair dryer which makes it cure and grip stronger, however it will still be susceptible to water unless you use the poly but this hinders its erasability qualities.
Applying water slide transfers requires a bit more disciplined approach, the transfers are separated from the backing sheet as normal, do not place the wet backing sheet onto the model and slide of the transfer as this will flood the surface and make the paint run. Dry the top of the transfer and put in place as accurately as you can and then apply your solvent of choice, Mission does not like solvaset. I never varnish models as that just evens out the finish and you lose the varietal benefits of Mission. The only time I have ever had silvering was when I applied the transfers to a gloss varnish.
There is usually some room for fine tuning the transfer's final position when the solvent is first applied but slathering and flooding the transfer with solvent/water to position the transfer will dissolve the paint, it is water based water colour!!!
Mission is impervious to oil paint which is what I use for all my finishing weathering. I could never get off on any of current crop of water based paints being a confirmed enamels user but with Mission for me its qualities far outweigh its limitations and all paints have their limitations and foibles.
Mission is different and requires a learning curve like all new skills but once achieved it is a far superior paint to any other water based product on the market. You need to clear your mind of all the hobbies current finishing processes, understand that it is a water based paint, a bit like gouache and get you your chemical hierarchy in place from there. As in all new skills practice and experience makes perfect.
Mission don't do them selves any favours in the customer support and instructions for use department.
Each to his own but once I had sorted out Mission Paints needs then for me it is the perfect model paint.
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I buy cheapy dispensers like these Tape dispensers and just stick them together side by side with epoxy, works fine for all width of tape and doesn't attract the "marketed as a bespoke modelling product premium" we have to pay for most things.
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You can get the same vice mounted on a good stand.
Just search the internet for "Universal work holders".
I use them for most models, I put plastic pipe over the pins for a bit of softening and for things that won't fit direct I double sided tape/elastic band/pipe cleaner/cable tie etc to a block of wood and hold that in the vice. Excellent piece of kit and worth every penny.
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I love the scale and the kits. Detail levels are the choice of the model builder as with all kits and scales.
My local model shop has them at good prices e.g. Tamiya Tilly £14.39, Tamiya Matilda £21.59.
What is not to like?
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Best not to thin it, spray as is although you will need to increase the air pressure a tad, I push mine up to around 15 psi, at least that is what the dial says.
If you feel the need to thin then water is the one but it is supposed to be applied un-thinned.
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It is expensive, just pure tech greed.
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Not in my experience, my CMs 0.18 needles spray enamels, my main paint, wonderfully. I also use Mission Models paint and again it sprays them wonderfully.
The airbrush has no idea what paint you are using, as always you just need to get the thinning right.
Yet again we have the theory dismissed by the practice.
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12 minutes ago, spitfire said:
It's bound to be a really well researched and engineered kit so will please a lot of Luftwaffe fans and hopefully sell a lot to encourage Kotare to bring out more kits,
However I am not a Luftwaffe fan and will not be buying one, but will await their next project with anticipation.
Cheers
Dennis
Concur.
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There is a section on it in this book:
British Experimental Jet Aircraft
Barire Hygate-
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I am a Iwata user, 3 CM B2, 3 HP B-Plus and a Hi-Line HP-CH fine airbrushes but at a price.
I would suggest having a look at the Gaahleri line Gaahleri airbrushes.
I have a couple and they are excellent not just on value but also on performance and will be knocking on Procon Boys door both for quality and price.
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Looks like the WNW bundle is just empty boxes with some left over build parts and runners. No complete kits.
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Just finished mopping up.
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Says you need to be signed in.
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When do we get ours??????
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Naphtha is a good thinner for oils.
To speed up drying time hit it with a hair dryer.
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There is already a thread on it here: Airfix Me 410 thread.
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Just an update, the spares package I ordered direct from Gaahleri in the US (Needle and nozzle) on the 25th of October arrived today.
Not bad for $6 postage.
General Opinion on New Airbrushes
in Airbrushes
Posted
Can't comment on the Paasche as I have no experience of the air brush.
The Iwata however I do know a little about and it will definitely do what you desire if you do your bit.
Most airbrushes will perform well it is all down to the paint, how well it is thinned for the job, air pressure and volume along with distance form the surface and your trigger technique. The essence of airbrushing regardless of the airbrush.