detailstymied

never being one to follow arkam's razor .... https://www.fdjtool.com/how2/jewelers-saw/sawblade-chart.pdf i think for a short (2 mm cut) i could use a jewelers saw & fine blade. for brass tube, i think i'd cut narrower than needed and drag a piece of wet/ dry paper through to a "go/ no go" fit. time will tell!

i would like to make some clevis ends for .020" brass rod. they would attach to a piece of shaped .015" brass sheet (with acc would be fine). i think i could drill a hole in a block of hardwood the o.d. of a piece of .5 mm brass tube, slip a piece of #76 drill rod into it to keep from collapsing, and clamp it in my panavise to hold the assemble vertical. question is, what saw could i use with a thin enough kerf to slot the tube lengthwise about 2 mm? thanks

balsa foam (the soft version) is easily carved and then coated with diluted matte medium before final color. http://balsafoam.com/

if you've ever heard of model railroaders named John Allen or E.L. Moore, they both used "imagineering". there's a point (and i do understand it exists at different places for each of us) where things cease to be measured and become more important to look correct. at 1/35 scale, the plausibility, or margin of error, for an ammo pouch is much different than a 1/6 scale figure. larger scales require more detail to look "right". tarps on the other hand, came in infinite sizes and may depend what you want covered. if it's bundles, a scale tarp may look monsterous unless you have scale thickness canvas from which to fabricate. as far as your original question, i would use the trick of getting a picture of something you want to model, and then search the picture for something which you can readily dimension.in architecture, quite often it can be a common door size, or height of brick course which will ultimately yield the building dimensions. maybe if a soldier's finger would be four inches long, tucked in his ammo belt, the pouch may prove to be 1/5 longer, or 5". i guess it ultimately depends where your pain threshold lies!

this is a good trick to remember; thanks.

there are fine chains used for watch operation but they're called something other than chains. tiny and sold by the foot. sorry i can't be more help, but they do exist! grandt line makes delrin chain but it might be too big: http://grandtline.com/products/mrr/mrr%20details/transmission_components_sprockets.html http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/86613-118-duesenberg-wire-wheels/?page=3 * got it: fusee chain!!! http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfusee+pocket+watch+drive+chain&_nkw=fusee+pocket+watch+drive+chain&_sacat=0 https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog

this might be helpful to someone as a second step hunting down colors: http://www.paint4models.com/

Aces High magazine - back issue wanted Today anyone know where i could purchase Aces High magazine volume #2 (english version) seems to be unavailable on their website. many thanks

does anyone have a mix ratio & color guide to get a sun aged concrete color (airbrushing) from the Vallejo line of paints? i'm very happy with their working properties and am concentrating on the mechanics of airbrushing so really don't want the burden of experimenting with mixes if someone has already "invented the wheel". or the expense of buying into another line of paints. back in railroading days i was completely happy with Floquil Aged Concrete straight from the bottle, so it might lend credence to how unsophisticated the base coat needs to be. i can doctor up lighter or darker as needed, but just hope for a place to start. thanks.