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Nick Charnock

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About Nick Charnock

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 10/09/1971

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK

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  1. Nick Charnock

    1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood

    Hi Jeff, yep ladders and stairs I usually pre fix - ladders are normally the same colour as the bulkhead/turret whatever, so can just be sprayed over. Stairs I normally try and fix at the top so that when it's spayed and you place the part on the model, the (normally gray) stairs sit on a nicely painted different coloured deck. You can normally fix the bottom of the stair with a couple of tiny spots of CA glue; Steps prefix on Dreadnought; There are always exceptions for some bits, but generally I attach as much brass to the model as possible before painting. Long railing pieces on hull sides or large superstructure areas are the main exception which I always spray on the fret and fit after everything's painted. The railings here were fitted after painting with diluted PVA glue which give a nice clean line between the brown deck and the grey railing. I'm not saying this the right way, but it tends to work for me Cheers Nick
  2. Nick Charnock

    Tamiya 1-350 Bismarck.

    That looks brilliant mate!
  3. Nick Charnock

    1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood

    Cheers Jeff Thanks Mark Hi Nils, combination really, for making up brass structures like the vents I try and solder them, mainly because I want to learn how to do it and practice, but it does give a great join when it goes well (and you can reapply heat and try again when it doesn't ). I use a bog standard soldering iron and liquid solder. I've tried a little blow torch but I burned right through some thin bits of brass. For really small bits and brass to plastic it's mostly medium CA (superglue) - I use ZAP A GAP. It gives a good bond and fills small gaps but you've got to fairly quick. For bits that need some adjustment and will stay in place by themselves, I use thinned down PVA glue, gives you loads of time, can be washed off with water and dries clear. I always use this when I fix railings after painting. The sheen of the dried glue can be covered afterwards with matt varnish. The PE parts for Hood are a combination of the Eduard Big Ed set and Flywawk models - the Eduard was about £20 i think which I thought was really good. I got both because while they both claim to cover the whole ship, neither set covers everything I wanted to add. If you don't want to buy a set for a specific ship there are loads of generic sets of 'railings' or 'ladders' or 'WW2 RN stuff' that you could use to improve any kit. HTH Cheers Nick
  4. Nick Charnock

    1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood

    Hi Jeff, I considered giving up on the kit when the bow melted, but I'd already bought the after market stuff and I didn't want to waste it. She'll be water line on a sea base - you're spot on about the wet ship bit and I did think about a rough sea, but when she was at sea the ladders from the boat deck to the forecastle deck and the forecastle deck to the quarterdeck were struck away and stowed so they didn't get swept away, and I want to model those in position as I think the add to the detail of the ship - so I think she'll be in relatively calm waters leaving Scapa Flow - there's plenty of picks or her under way at low speed with the ladders still in position. Also, I've never modelled a very rough sea before Look forward to seeing your 1941 Hood, I thought the same about PE when I came back to modelling a few years ago but I found it ok, just patience and walking away and coming back fresh if it gets too much works for me - give it a go mate. As for the reference, please be my guest, hope it helps. Cheers Nick
  5. Nick Charnock

    1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood

    Cheers Nils. I know what you mean about the PE, and some of the resin and 3d printed stuff available is amazing!
  6. Nick Charnock

    It's a whitewash,Tamiya Stug iv.

    Nice job Steve, whitewash looks spot on! Cheers Nick
  7. Nick Charnock

    1/700 Pearl Harbour Diorama

    Great work mate, especially in that scale!
  8. Nick Charnock

    Landing Ship Medium

    Brilliant Beefy, love i! Cheers Nick
  9. Nick Charnock

    1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood

    Been away with work Kris, I'll need to catch up! Slow progress but working on the main upper deck sub assemblies; Aft superstructure sides; Ans assembled; PE Ladder used to replace the moulded windows, same as the bridge, 0.25x0.5 strip cut to 2mm lengths for the splinter shield supports. Really like the Eduard davits, they fold double with little 'petal' bases so they're really quite 3D Various deck vent from the flyhawk set - good for practicing my soldering, which needs a lot of practice!; Fore funnel base; All the refs I have show that the area to the rear of the funnel base which trumpeter has moulded portholes in should be a vent with 2 hatches on top, so I covered the portholes with a bit of spare mesh and added some hatches; On;y to find that when the funnels fited the hatches won't open! Somethings a bit off dimensionaly but oh well; Aft funnel base; had some extra splinter shield fitted as 'edge protection' and the moulded mesh openings blanked as they should be windows here'; And the funnel fitted with various etch details; Bit of a test fit on the boat deck; Cheers Nick
  10. Nick Charnock

    German Battleship Tirpitz

    Cheers mate, waaaay to kind tho
  11. Nick Charnock

    1/350 HMS Exeter (1939) - York class cruiser

    That's brilliant mate!
  12. Nick Charnock

    HMS Eskimo

    Brilliant Beefy, love the bow wave and the water. Cheers Nick
  13. Nick Charnock

    1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood

    Cheers Kris, what are you working on?
  14. Nick Charnock

    1/350 HMS Exeter (1939) - York class cruiser

    Deck looks great Jamie. Following the WIP, looks like a nice kit. Cheers Nick
  15. Nick Charnock

    1/35 Scimitar and Warrior - Iraq 2003

    Cheers Rob
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