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About Ben

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  1. Ben

    Advice on missing part

    Hi, I wonder if someone could help please? I build 1:72 kits with my son, we're total amateurs, we do it for fun and as a focus for spending time together. We have a massive dogfight on his ceiling, which is a wonder to behold! I bought a Huma He-280 in 1:72 on ebay. The kit stayed in its box for 6 months and when I opened it I found the flat, horizontal part of the tail was unusable, it hadn't formed properly and, instead of of one piece it was two blobs. The seller refused to take it back, but Paypal refunded me. Now I have the incomplete kit, wondering what to do with it. I can't find a replacement tail to buy, I have no idea how to make a part, shall I just throw it away?
  2. Yes, I think I'd be a bit happier if I hadn't filled my Iwata up with undiluted "optimised" and "tested" paint which glued the whole thing up.
  3. I had a conversation with John at Scale Model Shop about the paints and he said he was no longer going to stock Hataka paints because he's had too many complaints. He didn't say exactly what the nature of those complaints were.
  4. Yes, you need to be a Ben for this one. I can't remember which of the Iwatas I've got, probably 0.3 or 0.4mm. I do know that Vallejo model air goes through it at between 10 and 40 PSI just beautifully, and that Hataka paints block it up almost exactly like I thought they wouldn't! Normally, for convenience I thin Humbrol with screenwash and that works fine. Nowhere on the Humbrol pots does it say "optimised for airbrush" I'm just wee weed off and grumpy. I'm still going to use the paints.
  5. Absolutely, however, I think "thinnable for airbrush" would fit the same space on the packaging and be more accurate.
  6. I've just received my first set of Hataka red line paints. These paints are advertised as "optimised for airbrush" and the side of the bottle says "airbrush tested" The paints I received were a million miles away from being airbrush ready, they were thin-ish brush paints. After a short conversation with the UK stockist and with Hataka's facebook page, they have confirmed that none of their paints are airbrush-ready, they all need to be diluted. As far as I'm concerned this is, at best, misleading and at worst blatant and deliberate mis-selling. I'm very disappointed and I would advise Members to avoid the product.
  7. Dave and Plasto, you're both right, I should settle down!
  8. Hi Dave, my 12-yo son makes the planes and I paint them to "toy" standard, ie they look smart, but I wouldn't show them to you guys (hence no photos in my thread above). So, I don't shade, tone or wash, I spray them and varnish them, then we hang them on the ceiling in one gigantic dogfight!
  9. I'm pretty unhappy with Vallejo's Russian & French colours, has anyone else had the same issues? In all the images the dark blue grey for French fighters' upper surfaces, as part of the 3-colour scheme, is just a touch darker than the grey used for the underside. However Vallejo's 71.005 is a slate grey, giving no contrast with the green and dark brown. Again, with Soviet planes, their AMT11 and AMT12 should be mid greys? Nope! Vallejo's 71.304 & 71.308 are both really dark. In fact there's little difference between them. My Lavochkin LA-7 looks really cool, but in a Batman kind-of-way.
  10. Thanks to everyone for your help. I've actually now used the dark grey and it looks completely wrong. But I have more French planes to build and I've ordered the Hataka set now. I'm never sure when I'm going to stop learning and start actually making models which will be worth showing! Re the sand debate above: I saw somewhere that the standard colours for fighters were grey, green, dark brown where the green was either an olive or a fairly vivid forest green, but the standard colours for bombers were grey, dark brown and sand. ? My Smer Breguet 693 (tank buster/heavy fighter) asks for this colour scheme. see link to image of a completed Smer Breguet http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/Smer_1_72_Breguet_Br693_0844__about8184.html
  11. Such a lot of water under this particular bridge, but... please can you help? I'm building a SMER 1:72 Bloch MB-152 with my son. I just started painting, using the colour references above, starting with Vallejo dark blue grey 71.005. This really is a dark slate colour which doesn't tie up with the upper-body grey on any of the images of French WW2 scale models I've seen online. The online images seem to show the grey on the topside barely darker than the under-wing grey. Strangely the humbrol reference I found here http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_france.htm 79 & 144 is also really dark slate too. Shall I just get on with it and shut up, or mix my own, or...?
  12. Love your work. Would it be the height of rudeness to ask what colours you used please? I have the Italeri/Zvezda kit, your colour scheme's much more interesting than the 2 greens Italeri are suggesting! Cheers
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