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DominiqueBeerts

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  1. This is looking good. These models were actualy designed as toys, and I have found somewhere on the internet that they were used in races. The model needed to run a downhill track and was then judged on performance AND building qualitiy. So in order to get the performance the builder had to build as secure as possible, and to get the most out of the 'elegance concours', it had to look great at the same time Nevertheless they build up very nicely if done with care, which shows here. I have most of this series in my stack and I am pleased to see one of them come by. You don't see them a lot in build fora. I have done the Roadster version. You can check the build pictures here if you like : http://s145.photobucket.com/user/db114/library/1909 Ford Model T Roadster _ Gabriel/WIP, although I must admit mine has had quite some modifications. Thanks for sharing this build.
  2. I bookmarked this one. The model looks perfect to me and you use some interesting techniques. It will get me started whenever I unwrap mine. Thanks for sharing!
  3. I also did a good job in overlooking this thread somehow. As a fan of old cars and bikes I will follow this build. I have never looked into the Matchbox nor Revel boxes, so I am wondering how this will turn out. Please specify when deviating from the oob. Thanks!
  4. I have the same MFH-kit in my to-do pile and am looking with great interest. I also thought about the chrome parts. Since Alclad chrome is not the ideal solution to replicate chrome because of the fragile pant effect, I was thinking about other ways to do these parts. Plating seems to be a logical step, but the kits I have seen so far all used thick primer which needed to be brushed on. This primer was metal loaded to conduct the power. The wanted effect was then created by choosing different agents. Works OK, except for the fact that this "primer" is thick, must be brushed, cannot be polished and thus gives a poor final effect. Plus the nickel turns black after a while, like silver. So it needs to be re-polished with silver-polish. So that was a no-go. Aren't you afraid of having the problem your nickel will turn black in time? I was considering preparing the parts, and then send them to a professional chroming company. By the way, very nice work so far! Thanks for sharing your experiences.
  5. I agree with the previous posters. Have a look at the number of views on your build reports and you know people follow and read your posts. The "problem" with this report is: 1. the subject is a car, so by default you will reach less people's interest then the military builders, 2. the scale of the model is outside 1/24-1/25, so a lot of car builders will not even look at it, 3. the subject is a 1920's car, so interest is lower by definition then a rally or track race car, 4. the subject is LSR car, which is a niche even to car builders. Never mind, as long as people continue to read you're OK.
  6. did I mount it upside down? I never noticed. But if I did, it doesn't seem to affect the engine's smooth running You're doing nicely on yours. Apparently Roy has the same problems with his parts (in a new kit) than mine (in an old kit). My engine parts were heavily warped and I had to correct quite a lot to get them fit together. But I agree with both of you: they should make more models like these. I had a great time doing it.
  7. Hello all, I disagree with Codger. In my humble opinion they are both spot on. The Rolls' radiator would have to be less rusty then a Citroen's one, simply because of the difference in care both cars would have received, even when they both have the same age. My Traction Avant has been weathered as well, both inside and outside. Weathering is not that difficult as a technique. The real difficulty is to know when to stop. Too little is not convincing, too much makes it a rust bucket and your model will have the look of a barn find instead of a used car. But again, I have been reading your topics and you are both doing a nice job. Keep on going!
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