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Everything posted by jrlx

  1. Thanks Ozzy! I hope this time I manage to finish it and do it justice. Cheers Jaime
  2. Thank you very much Gents! It certainly is an unusual bird Cheers Jaime
  3. The final pictures are now in the RFI section here. Cheers Jaime
  4. Hello, This is my build of the A-90 Ekranoplan in Soviet markings, as stationed in the Caspian Sea in 1990. The kit is Zvezda's and was built out of the box. The only modifications were fuselage windows made of Conctata Clear glue (after drilling the necessary holes on the fuselage) and Uschi elastic wire for the antenna wire on top of the fuselage. Paints used were Alclad for the metallics and Gunze acrylics for the rest. The kit is relatively simple, with just over 40 parts, but some areas are problematic, especially the nose intakes, and make painting of the parts a
  5. Hi Stix! Thank you very much! Cheers Jaime
  6. Hi again, As said earlier in this thread, the model comes with black round decals to simulate the fuselage windows but I decided to create (hopefully) better looking windows using Revell's Contacta Clear Glue for transparent parts. Previously I drilled holes on the fuselage on the locations of the windows, which were blanked on the inside with pieces of plasticard: Now was the time to apply the glue on the window holes. For that, I built a rig with Lego so that the fuselage sides would rest horizontally: IMAG6763 The glue was applied with the tip
  7. It's a nice kit. I started it in the 75th Anniversary of the Battle of Britain GB but only managed to finish it last year. You can find my WIP here, if you're interested. Good luck with your build! Cheers Jaime
  8. I didn't buy their B-52 because I already have Italeri's in the stash. However, I bought their B-2 and Eduard's PE sets for it. It'll be a while before I manage to start building it.
  9. Thank you very much for the detailed information. That certainly can explain the difficulties to correlate the upper and lower camouflage schemes from the pictures. As I said elsewhere I wasn't very concerned about accuracy due to the limitations of the model and because the main purpose was to test the black base technique. I hope a good modern 1/72 scale model of this aircraft appears in the market in the near future. Wasn't Modelcollect planning to launch one? Cheers Jaime
  10. Thanks Ced! When I unglued the grid I thought it would be impossible to repair it but after shaking the model for a while, to see if the piece could be moved nearer to the opening, the solution occurred to me. Fortunately it was doable. Cheers Jaime.
  11. Thanks! It's about 17 cm long, with a wingspan of about 14 cm. Same wingspan of a Spitfire Mk I in 1/72 but a bit longer. Cheers Jaime
  12. Thank you very much Ced! Very kind as usual Cheers Jaime
  13. Thanks John. It's an easy kit to build. Cheers Jaime
  14. Hello, Just to let you know I've published the final photos in the RFI area here. Cheers Jaime
  15. Hello again, While trying to remove the masking from the nose air-intake grids, an accident occurred: I applied to much force and the starboard grid unglued and let itself loose inside the fuselage: IMAG6744 I stopped and let the model rest for some time, while thinking about a possible way to recover the grid. It should be noted that the diameter of the piece is larger than the diameter of the opening, so it doesn't fall to the outside of the model. Since the masking tape was still covering the external face of the grid piece, I decided to "fish"
  16. Hello, I've recently finished Academy's 1/260 B-1 "Excalibur". It's a simple and relatively old kit. My aim with this build was just to test the "black base" technique. Accuracy was not an objective. The kit resembles a B-1 but there are some inaccuracies, like the nose pitot tube. The camouflage was delimited by hand using rolls of blu-tak, which took a lot of time. It was based on photographs, so it isn't especially accurate either. Painting of the aircraft was done by airbrush, using Gunze acrylics over Alclad Black Primer and Microfiller. Only the exhausts were painted by paint
  17. Thanks! I must confess I'm a bit obssessive with detailing my models, so I always use PE or resin or whatever is available to improve detail. Cheers Jaime
  18. Hi again, The next step in the build was the application of decals. Before that, the model was coated with Microgloss and dried for at least one day. The setup for decal application was this: IMAG6721 There was only a very small number of decals to apply. The decal for the wind-screen was not used. I'll paint the windows black and I'll apply a coat of Alclad Acqua Gloss to simulate the glass. The other decals reacted well to the solvents, though they are about 30 years old. Here's the model after decal application and with the wind-scr
  19. @CedB Thanks! @silverkite211 I'm afraid its too late. The build is already finished. Anyway, as I said above, accuracy was not my aim with this build but thanks for pointing that out. Cheers Jaime
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