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Everything posted by jrlx

  1. I'm always happy to share my little experience and be of any help to others. Speaking about your work, your metallic finish turned out beautifully! And your objective to finish the model in a few days time is quite ambitious. At my pace I would take months to finish a B-17... Jaime
  2. Hello again, Another work progress post. This one's about painting. I primed the aircraft with Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey, my usual "primer" for acrylic paints. I use mostly Gunze Mr Hobby Colour and some Tamiya acrylic paints. Next, I pre-shaded the panel lines with flat black: IMAG1566 IMAG1568 I painted the underside with Tamiya XF-83 Medium Sea Grey. When it was dry, I painted the top side of the aircraft with the lighter upper camouflage colour: Dark Sea Grey (this is how Gunze calls their Ocean Grey for RAF aircraft of the WWII).
  3. CedB, I'm happy to see that my suggestion was of some use but the technique wasn't invented by me. I saw it somewhere, early in my return to the Hobby (not that long ago, in fact it was mid-2014). Keep on the steady progress Jaime
  4. Good progress Nigel. Very useful warning on the proper order of assembly for the engine parts.
  5. Hi, fourth post on work progress. This one's about painting. All the small parts were cut off the sprues, cleaned from flash and moulding marks and glue to the tips of toothpicks, for better handling and painting. I use just a small drop of super-glue on the toothpick's tip and press it against a locator pin or an area of the part that won't be visible after assembly. Here they are before priming: IMAG1430 After priming (and painting some of them), the result was this: IMAG1587 then I primed the aircraft with Tamiya XF-19 Sk
  6. No problem, Mario. I'm always happy to share my experiences. I've just used Aqua Gloss for Alclad-painted models and was happy with the results. For Gunze/Tamiya acrylics-painted models I use Microscale Micro Gloss before applying decals and also after, for protection from the weathering process. After weathering, most of my models get a flat finish. I've been using Microscale Micro Flat for that, but I found that it can be a bit hit-or-miss... Now I always give it a good shake before application. It seems that flat varnishes use some kind of flat "pigment" suspended on a gloss varnish and i
  7. Thanks for the tip, BerndM. I have some Eduard kits with canopy masks but haven't tried them yet. Too many kits in the stash, too little time, I'm afraid...
  8. Thanks for your words. In fact, masking the canopy for painting was a bit of a nightmare because there's no raised framing in the clear part. The framing is just slightly engraved, which makes it very difficult to cut the masking tape correctly. It took me quite a while to do this. I'm glad it didn't end up too badly. Jaime
  9. Not that scary, really I just use a small drop of super-glue and glue the toothpick to a locator pin in the part or to an area that won't be visible after assembling. This is almost always possible. And the part can be very easily taken off the toothpick. In fact, I keep taking them apart by accident while working on the model. Maybe this picture can better show what I mean (an example from my Fokker Dr.I WIP): Regarding the correct colours of aircraft camouflages, I find that a good starting point is to check IPMS Stockholm's reference pages. Look for the United States link lower in the
  10. Nigel, I'm following your build with great interest. I plan to build one of these Arado bombers, just don't know when... Your attention to detail is remarkable. I'm bookmarking this thread for future reference. Cheers, Jaime
  11. I agree Revell's colour instructions are hard to follow. I always write the colour name and reference next to Revell's letters on the diagrams. But I have another problem with Revell's colour instructions: they only use their own paint references, while I use Gunze and some Tamiya, and many times they don't even present RLM or FS references. They also tend to mix their colours to obtain the needed colours, which complicates matters further. With Revell kits I always look for documentation on the real aircraft in order to determine the correct colours, but for detail / interior colours that ca
  12. Dear Fellow Modellers, After completing my Grumman Duck (RFI here) I got the "biplane bug"... Then I read a favourable build review in Model Aircraft Magazine's December 2014 issue of the Revell Fokker Dr.I triplane (Red Baron's triplane, of course), which also classified it as an easy build, and thought: "Why not build a simple and quick triplane, in between more complicated models?". So, recently I went to my local hobby shop and got this for 10,50 €: IMAG1571 Just two red sprues and a small decal sheet. Since I mainly use Gunze Mr.
  13. Great start CedB! I'll be watching with great interest as I have myself one in my stash (it will be "Memphis Belle", if I ever complete it...). Brilliant idea the colour planning. I also try to systematise painting by lumping parts together by colour. Keep the posts coming Jaime
  14. Thanks! It really takes longer than it seems. I started this model in December and have been building it in parallel with one or two other kits. I'm nearly finishing it now but still need another week or so.
  15. Hello again This is the third post in the WIP. When I test fitted the canopy found it was narrower than the fuselage: IMAG1515 It also didn't fit properly in the front, due to the gun sight piece: IMAG1516 Due to this, I couldn't build the kit properly with the canopy closed and decided to build it with an open canopy. However, this implied I should cut the canopy piece. To do this, I filled the inside of the piece with Blu-Tack I placed it on a Blu-Tak base, in order to minimise stress to the part while cutting. Then applied masking
  16. Here's a second post on this WIP. I cut all small parts off the sprues and glued them to toothpicks with a drop of super-glue. The idea was to prime them all at once and them paint them with the final colours. Here it is how it looks after priming: IMAG1436 Please note that the main gear legs and the exhausts were painted with Alclad paints (aluminium and burnt iron, respectively), after priming with Alclad Grey Primer. The legs were painted aluminium all over, but only the oleos will be like than in the end. All the other parts were primed with Tamiya X-19 Sk
  17. Dear All, Thanks again for the kind and supportive words. I really appreciate them. Mario, Aqua Gloss is water based and doesn't have a strong smell. In fact, I just checked the smell yesterday, in order to answer your question, because I always wear a respirator mask and switch on my paint booth with air extraction when I paint and had no idea about the smell... Aqua Gloss is recommended for the high-shine Alclad colours (e.g.: Airframe Aluminium) but can also be used with regular shine colours and non-Alclad paints to give a gloss finish. It is also superb for protecting transparent par
  18. Thanks for your kind words and for the tips. I'll leave the canopy open, so the belts will be quite visible. I'll look for a thinner wire and will try to replace what I've already installed. I'll also be extra careful with the tires.
  19. This is the second WIP post on the Bf 109 G10 by Revell. I did a few corrections to the more glaring errors, though this was not my main objective for the build. I decided to follow Rato Marczak's technique for building more realistic navigation lights. I cut two roundels of clear sprue and etched the wing tips on the navigation lights' positions: IMAG1438 IMAG1439 The roundels where drilled with a 0.3 mm mini-drill: IMAG1441 then I filled the holes with transparent red and transparent blue paint: IMAG144
  20. Graham, Thanks for the advice. I'm afraid it is too late now for additional modifications in the model. Anyway, my initial objective was to built it OOB and try my first mottled camouflage. In the way I ended up making a few error corrections but just those that where more glaring. I'll make a few additional posts to show them. Thanks again. Jaime
  21. Patrick, Thanks for the tip. I'm afraid my local hobby shop has neither the resin propeller nor the heller kit in stock. They would have to be ordered from the sellers and that would take at least 3 weeks. As I'm just finishing the model and have already applied the spiral decal to the propeller cone (I'd have to source a new decal sheet or try to mask the resin cone and paint it), this is not an option right now. However, I'll take note of your tips for a future build. Curiously, the resin propeller with cone, from Quickboost, would cost about 4 € and the kit at least 12 €. By the way, th
  22. Excellent work Tom! I intend to build one of these for the upcoming Battle of Britain GB. I think I'll have to get the Do 17z plus Paul Defiant boxing, in order to have decals within the time frame of the Battle. It seems that the particular aircraft you built was shot down over Britain on the 3rd of July 1940, a few days before the official start of the Battle.
  23. Funnilly I did one when I was a kid. I believe it was an E-3 or E-4, but I lost track of it long ago.
  24. Dear All, This is also a model I'm nearly finishing, but still with some work to do. I started it back in December 2014. The objective was to consolidate my skills with two-colour upper camouflage aircraft of the WWII. I was also a bit worn out with seam treatment on the Grumman Duck I was building at the time (see RFI post here), so I guess an Academy kit with good fit would be a good change of affairs. Here is the box and contents. This is the Academy double kit box commemorating the 70th anniversary of D-Day, containing the Spitfire Mk XIVc and the Typhoon Ib. For th
  25. Patrick, Thanks for your post. I'm afraid I'm too nearly finished to replace the propeler with an AM substitute...
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