Jump to content


Gold Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by jrlx

  1. Nigel ( @Clashcityrocker ), Steve ( @stevehnz ), thank you very much for the kind words!
  2. Thanks Bertie! Very kind!
  3. Hi Chris ( @bigbadbadge ), Greg ( @GREG DESTEC ), Thank you very much for your appreciation! A Happy New Year for you, too! Jaime
  4. Dear All, In 2021 I only managed to finish two models. Here they are. 1. Heinkel He 178 V1 - first jet aircraft in History (Special Hobby/MPM 1/72) This was a challenging build. It fought me back in every step of the build. In the end it turned out well, but it definitely isn't a beginner's model. The WIP is here and the RFI is here. IMAG7343 IMAG7346 IMAG7357 IMAG7358 2. USS Greeneville (Hobby Boss 1/350) This is my first submarine build since returning to modelling. It was a simple build. The real challenge was trying to weather it realistically. It turned out satisfactorily for a first attempt. I have a few more submarines in the stash now. The WIP is here and the RFI is here. IMAG7429 IMAG7435 IMAG7439 IMAG7441 Thanks for looking. Jaime
  5. Hi again, After a long period away from this build, I've finally made some progress last week in making air-intakes for the jet engines, which was scaring me away from the build. However, I still must update the build log with work done earlier this year, from January to March. First, I decided to complete seat with the foot-rests protruding in front of the seat. These were done with 0.13 mm-think plasticard: IMAG7154 The foot-rests were painted by paintbrush: IMAG7155 The raised detail on the instrument panel and side panels was highlighted by dry-brushing: IMAG7156 IMAG7157 The next step was applying a dark wash to the cockpit parts, after gloss-coating these parts. I used Vallejo's greased earth acrylic wash: IMAG7159 A detail of the gloss-coated cockpit parts before applying the wash: IMAG7160 After the wash, a matt coat was applied, resulting in this: IMAG7163 The cockpit walls turned out very dark because I didn't remove the excess wash: IMAG7164 I used some spare PE seat belts from a Cobra helicopter for this build, as they look very similar to the seat belts used in this aircraft. The seat belts were painted still in the PE fret: IMAG7158 I decided to try a recently acquired liquid chrome marker to paint the buckles: IMAG7165 Here's the result: IMAG7166 The seat belts were cut off the fret: IMAG7174 ... applied to the seat: IMAG7175 The seat was glued to the cockpit base: IMAG7176 The cockpit base was glued to the port fuselage half: IMAG7180 The model needs some weight on the nose to avoid becoming a tail seater. I used miliput to glue lead balls in place: IMAG7181 I had to close the front of the cockpit base in order to avoid seeing the lead in the nose: IMAG7189 The fuselage halves were glued together: IMAG7190 IMAG7194 I applied tiny drops of Aqua Gloss on the instrument faces to simulate the glass covers: IMAG7171 Finally, the instrument panel was glued in place: IMAG7221 Thanks for looking Cheers Jaime
  6. Thanks a lot! It's my first submarine, I wasn't sure about the weathering and tried to not overdue it.
  7. I swear it's a plastic base. The WIP pictures don't lie I believe the "puppy" is some kind of remote controlled mini-sub but I must admit I didn't look for information on it. Cheers Jaime
  8. In reply to @Adm Lord De Univers request, here are some pictures of the base, showing the wood-like effect I tried to achieve: IMAG7454 IMAG7455 IMAG7456 IMAG7458 IMAG7459 The base was primed with Alclad Black Primer and Microfiller. Next, the holders were painted Gunze Metal Color MC219 Brass, which provides a very good metal effect. After masking the holders, I painted the base with Gunze H84 Mahogany. This was gloss coated with Microgloss and the wood grain effect was done by spreading spots of AMMO MIG-3512 Oilbrusher Dark Brown along the length of the base using a flat brush. To seal both the base and holdera, I applied a good coat of Alclad Gloss Kote. Hope this is helpful. Cheers Jaime
  9. Hi David, thank you very much for your interest and kind words. Much appreciated! I'll certainly post close up photos of the base. I'll do it tomorrow and let you know when the thread is updated. Cheers Jaime
  10. I added a link to the RFI photos in the last post of the build. It can also be accessed here. Cheers Jaime
  11. Hello, This is my build of Hobby Boss 1/350 USS Greeneville. It's also my first submarine and maritime build since I returned to the hobby in 2014 (I'm mainly an aircraft guy). It is a simple kit to build and comes with a few PE parts to improve the propellers. Most effort was spent trying to get a (hopefully) realistic weathering. This was obtained by a combination of different tones of gray on the black areas of the model, pre-shading, grey wash and staining along the waterline. The WIP thread can be found here. Here are the pictures of the finished model. All comments are very much welcome. IMAG7429 IMAG7430 IMAG7431 IMAG7432 IMAG7433 IMAG7434 IMAG7435 IMAG7436 IMAG7437 IMAG7438 IMAG7439 IMAG7440 IMAG7441 IMAG7442 IMAG7443 IMAG7444 IMAG7445 IMAG7446 Cheers Jaime
  12. Thank you very much Richard, and thanks for the links. I'll take that into account for my next subs. I have the Zvezda 1/350 Kursk in the stash for a future build. Cheers Jaime
  13. Thanks Jeff! Much appreciated! I couldn't find much information on weathering submarine models,, so I had to improvise in order to try and reproduce what I saw in the pictures of the real thing. Cheers JR
  14. Hello again, Continuing with the build, I took some time to think about how best to weather the model. I opted to keep it subtle and decided to create some tonal variation on the dark top half of the hull. For that, I applied a pre-shading layer using white, along the lines of water flow when the sub is floating on the surface: IMAG7395 This was followed by thin layers of NATO Black: IMAG7396 After removing the masking, I got this: IMAG7397 IMAG7398 A microgloss coat was applied in preparation for the decals. Here's the setup for decaling: IMAG7400 There are few decals to apply, only the ID number on the sail and the water line scales on the bow and rudder: IMAG7401 I also decided to try and replicate a would finish for the base of the stand. First, I gloss coated the base and, next, I applied spots of dark brown oil, which were spread with a flat brush to simulate the wood grain. Here's the mahogany-painted and microgloss-coated base: IMAG7402 After spreading the dark brown oil: IMAG7414 IMAG7415 I still wanted to weather the model a bit more, in order to reproduce the weathering below from the waterline, as seen in this picture: My first approach was to use a grey wash by Vallejo. Here's the set-up (the model had another microgloss coat to seal the decals): IMAG7416 Before applying the wash, I applied masking tape along the waterline: IMAG7417 The tape was loosely held to the hull, in order to allow the wash to spread unevenly below the waterline. IMAG7418 The wash was applied vertically from the walkway to the waterline. The excess was removed with damp cotton buds shortly after. It worked but the wash tone was too dark and didn't stand out from the top hull's tone. In order to produce a better result, I decided to apply highly diluted Sky with a sponge over the matt wash. I didn't remask along the waterline. Here's the tool: IMAG7421 The resulting weathering: IMAG7422 A flat coat (Alclad) was applied to the model, mini-sub and small parts. Next, I glued the propeller of the mini-sub: IMAG7423 The same for the main model: IMAG7425 The pointy thingies where glued in place on top of the sail: IMAG7425 Finally, the mini-sub was piggy-backed on the submarine: IMAG7426 The completed model on the stand: IMAG7427 I'll post better pictures latter in the RFI area. Thanks for looking. Jaime NOTE: the RFI photos can be found here.
  15. Hello again, This kit is simple assembly-wise and there aren't significant fit problems. The horizontal seam between the two hull-halves was almost completely eliminated with sanding and polishing sticks. I had to use bits of thin plasticard sheet to fill in a few gaps I myself created when carving out the slots for the fins. The only gap due the kit parts was in the join between one of the tail planes and the hull: IMAG7359 IMAG7362 The narrower gaps and seams were taken care of with PPP: IMAG7363 The few PE parts were, then, dealt with. There's one for the propellers of the piggy-backed sub. Here is a comparison with the plastic version: IMAG7360 IMAG7360 There are PE parts for the hatch on the sail: IMAG7364 And there's a pair of PE parts for the sub propellers. I guess they should be glued together for increased strength. So, I cut one off the frame and CA-glued it to the other: IMAG7365 Here's the end result: IMAG7366 The smaller parts were cleaned of moulding marks and glued to toothpicks for painting: IMAG7367 The sub and the smaller parts were all primed with Alclad's Black Primer and Microfiller: IMAG7374 PPP was used again to tackle small seams along the hull joins. This wasn't very successful and in the end these seams were made to vanish with thin layers of primer: IMAG7376 IMAG7382 The propellers were painted brass: IMAG7383 The same for the holders of the stand: IMAG7384 Next, I used Gunze's Rousset to paint the hull: IMAG7385 The hull was masked using a combination of masking tape and kitchen cling-film: IMAG7386 The rest of the sub should be black but a real sub is never like that. I used several pictures of the real thing for inspiration for the choice of colours. This was especially interesting for showing several tones of grey on the hull, walkways and sail: I chose RLM66 for the lighter grey tones on the sail, Gunze's ocean grey for the walkways and Tamiya's NATO Black for the hull. I initially chose Gunze's Tire Black for the darker greys of the sail but it proved too dark for my likings and was painted NATO Black as well. Here's the application of the RLM66 grey on the sail and ocean grey on the walkways: IMAG7391 Next, I masked these areas before applying the NATO Black to the hull: IMAG7392 IMAG7393 The Tire Black intended for the sail proved to be too dark but I used it to cover the oversprays of rousset and greys before proceeding: IMAG7394 That's all for now. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  16. Dear All, While building my He 178 V1, which fought me every step of the build, I decided to build something really simple to have some breaks from the fight. I opted for a submarine. So, here is the build thread of my first modern submarine: the Hobby Boss 1/350 USS Greeneville. For starters, here are the mandatory pictures of the box art and box contents: IMAG7236 Apart from the hull halves and stand, there are only two sprues: IMAG7237 There's also a small PE fret: IMAG7238 Finally, a small decal sheet. However, according to the painting and decal instructions, decals 1, 6 and 7 are not used. IMAG7399 The build started with the sail and the horizontal tailplanes: IMAG7267 It was necessary to carve out indents for the foreplane. I overdid it, as only the curved indents were needed: IMAG7268 The foreplane was glued in place: IMAG7269 Indents were also carved out for the horizontal tailplanes: IMAG7270 The small submarine that piggybacked on the bigger sub was glued together: IMAG7271 A few holes had to be drilled out on the top hull half. These holes are for installing the pads on which the small submarine is installed: IMAG7272 The hull halves were glued together: IMAG7273 There are a few spots demanding attention. For instance, this rectangular depression near the horizontal fin of the small sub needs a piece of plasticard: IMAG7274 The areas around the foreplane also need attention, due to the excessive carving out: IMAG7291 IMAG7292 The sail was glued in place: IMAG7302 The pads for the small sub were then installed, as well as the mooring bollards : IMAG7303 IMAG7305 Finally, the tailplanes were glued in place: IMAG7310 That's all for now. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  17. Thank you for the explanation. I wasn't aware of these details and followed the pictures of the cockpit which I inserted in my first post of this thread. In the museum aircraft, the handles are positioned vertically and so did I in my scratch building. I'm afraid the fuselage was already closed when I read your explanation, and there was no way to modify the position of the handles (I still have to post those pictures, though). Cheers Jaime
  18. Hello @Shalako, thanks for your interest. I did progress a bit but didn't have the time to update the thread yet. I still have to solve the problem of how to create acceptable intake tubing. Cheers Jaime
  19. Hello, This is my rendition of Special Hobby's reboxing of MPM's Heinkel He 178 V1. This was the first jet aircraft to fly in the History of Aviation, in August 1939, a few days before the beginning of WWII. This kit is a short-run affair and presented all kinds of challenges. In fact, it fought me back in every step of the build. Anyway, I learned a few tricks but it isn't a "quick build", as I expected from the small number of parts. The WIP can be found here. Some notable points of the build: The kit comes with a small PE fret with the instrument panel and a few other external details but no seat belts I added seat belts from Eduard's WWII Luftwaffe Fighter seat belt PE set Panel lines had to be completely rescribed, as they weren't aligned when joining the two halves of the fuselage Metallic colours are Alclad's Aluminium, Polished Aluminium and Burnt Iron I used a black base technique (Alclad's Black Primer) and pre-shading with Gunze's Acrylic Sky The main colour is Gunze's Acrylic RLM02 Weathering was kept light: I used a dark brown acrylic wash and removed most of it (Vallejo's Greased Earth) Panel lines were enhanced using the same wash Here are the final pictures. IMAG7343 IMAG7344 IMAG7346 IMAG7347 IMAG7348 IMAG7354 IMAG7349 IMAG7350 IMAG7351 IMAG7352 IMAG7353 IMAG7355 IMAG7356 IMAG7357 IMAG7358 Thanks for looking. Jaime
  • Create New...