Deadman Disciple

I had the same problem with peeling after I bought a can to experiment with. Easily peals off, especially when I had to use tape to hold small parts on after I have primed the main hull on my Kazon Raider. On Halfords primer, I have used many tapes to hold on the those small parts & never once had any primer lift. After I used the Simoniz can, I just went back to Halfords.

Well, Delboy's Capri is finished. Ive started by lining up the 3 pinstripes on each side using the pinstripe decals I bought from Kitform Services, then I discovered the pinstripes wern't long enough. So I had to overlap the line by cutting a pinstripe in half to make sure it went the full length of the car. Soaking the pinstripe decals only took a mere few seconds to get them off the backing paper. So, 6 times later I left them to dry & sealed them with some Humbrol Glosscote, however I didnt use Microset or Microsol on the pinstripes as they were a bit flimsy, so on the safe side I just used water. Whilst the lines aren't perfectly 100% straight, they are straight enough for me. I started where I left off with the mainbody shell by glueing in the underneath chassis, which clipped in at the rear & the mounting pegs with holes underneath the bonnet. The front bumper plate had to be modified slightly, as the whole plate wouldnt glue back into place, so I cut off the side wheelarch bottoms & the front section for the bumper. Throwing away the offending peice, I glued the 3 pieces into place & glued the bumper onto the front section. Then I glued the last 2 rally headlamps into place underneath the bumper into the 2 holes I already drilled. As I couldnt get some spare 6mm lenses for the headlights, I managed to get some 5mm transparent seaquins, glued those onto the front grill using the glue n glaze & they dried clear, so they worked out an absolute treat. Using my push drill, I drilled 0.6mm holes (2 on the back, 1 on the bonnet) for the aerials using foodties. I melted the plastic off the ties on my cooker, waited for them to cool, painted the silver & then the flourescent pink & put them inside the holes & glued them into place. Then came the rear view mirrors. The interior mirror was just a little of my sheet sign plastic, glued to one of those spare washers from my AT-ST, painted black on one side with silver on the other (to replicate the mirror) & glued to a piece of paperclip into another spare washer on the roof. The hanging dice from the mirror were some sponge painted with white paint to make them go crusty, cut into 2 squares with 1 painted Tamiya X-15 green & the other painted in the flourescent pink, with little black dots painted on with a paperclip end. I then jabbed each of the dice with a needle & thread, knotted underneath the dice a few times & hanged them onto the mirror. The side mirrors are old ammo boxes from my Humvee build a couple of years back, I cut them in half down & using my dremel, I grinded a channel into the ammobox & glued in a small peice of a paperclip, filled the remaining of the channel in with some putty, sanded them down, then painted them flourescent pink & silver for the mirrors. Mounted those into the side of the doors into the holes I pre-drilled & glued them into place. I made some windscreen wipers using a little of the sheet sign plastic & some rubbers strips for the wipers, painted the arms in silver & the flourescent pink & glued those into place. Last but not least were the numberplates, they were self adhesive & were mounted onto some microwave pizza card & using a combination of doulesided-sticky tape & glue 'n glaze they were mounted into their respective places. My wife is happy on how the Capri tuned out, so Im happy. Cheers, Wayne.

After a year & a half, ive finally stopped my wife from nagging me & found a Ford Capri model kit to convert into a Del Boy Ford Capri from Only Fools & Horses. Picking up a pre-built Monogram Ford Capri II kit from a seller on ebay, whilst taking it apart I discovered that the seller had used what looks like superglue to put it together & whilst it came apart very easily, I was shocked to see he hadnt done anything with it. No painting & no interior decoration, well that is all about to change. Glueing the clear windshield & rear window into place with my glue n glaze & getting the main shell for primer with masking tape, when I sprayed with the primer the shell instantly looked a million times better with just the primer. Then came the interior, after I primered that too I started on the seat covers with the tigerprint decals sheets. Starting with the back seats, I created some templates with some microwave pizza box card & drew around with a pencil onto the decal paper & cut them out. Using Microset & Microsol, I then placed the decals onto the seats (which was quite easy) & just used some of the offcuts for patching up around the edges. Same principle for the door panels, but using some greaseproof paper as tracing paper, I then traced around the side panel inserts & cut them out & applied them to go around the border of the inserts & again patched up with some offcuts. The dashboard was a little bit of a problem, but the Microset/sol did its job around those difficult corners, I decided not to decal the instument panel, as it was very fiddly & trying to cut around the dials didnt work out, so I removed the decals & painted in black with the dials in white & drybrushed in silver to bring out the detail. Then came the task of the front seats. Basically cutting out a square for the seat & a rectangle for the backrest, with a wraparound for the back of the seat & the sides of the seats, with another wraparound & a little hat for the headrests. Was very fiddly indeed & using some more offcuts to patch up here & there, the final result is not too bad, even if the headrest so looks a little square instead of rounded, but once the shell is on top, hopefully they wont be noticable. Once I sealed the interior, I started on the bodyshell. Masking off the car apart from the roof & a little on the side, I sprayed with Halfords gloss black, once dry I took all the tape & newspaper & masked off where id sprayed black & sprayed the rest of the car with Humbrol 38 Lime Green. Then I sprayed the underneath chassis in Halford gloss black & picked out the prop shaft, exhausts & the fuel tank in silver, which will be rusted up later on. All-in-all so far the Capri is looking a helluva lot better. Cheers, Wayne.

I have built one of those using the Ken Block Rally Germany aftermarket decal set. I wanna have a crack at the VW Polo kit along with the Peugeot S2000 kit too. Before you start the Fiesta, have a butchers at my build videos on YT, there were some problems I had putting mine together which you should be aware of. An awesome collection of rally cars there, makes my few 1/18 diecast rally cars collection look small. Wayne.

Nah, thats the Special Forces First Order Tie. None-the-less, a great job & a nice look into the cockpit. Wayne.

Thats awesome, weathering is class & the interior looks great too. Nice one, Wayne.

Cheers Colin, I did have a look before on little cars website a while back & all there was 10mm, but now I can see there's 5mm. Ive asked Paul via PM, if he can waiver the £10 minimum order. Wayne.

Not sure if you can make it out. Ive sanded down a little using my small draper files on the other 2. But not much is coming off.

I use the fine detail Citadel brushes from Games Workshop. Last time I bought some in 2014 they were £6 quid each. Not sure how much they are now, but ive never gone wrong with em. Wayne

Ive started my Del Boy Capri Pratmobile, but as I said before it came pre-built. The clear headlamp lenses had been glued in using either old style poly cement or superglue & its turned them half misty. I tried test fitting the 7mm lenses I bought from Kitform Services but they are too big, plus the fact they are lenses mounted onto a photoetch type material. Is there any way I could soak the old lenses in some kind of solution to remove the years old dried on glue? I was thinking about soaking them in white spirits, but im thinking that will melt the lenses. I could paint them silver to cover the glue up, but only as a last resort. Cheers, Wayne.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251893438037?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I bought one of these just before christmas. I know, I know. Its from China, but it only took 10 days to arrive & it only cost £8.50 at the time. My work sells these, but they wanted £43, but the £8.50 I paid, I got the mask & 2 filters. It works a treat for me when I have to spray in my porch when its raining outside & its comfortable to wear too.

Hairspray onto the base & sprinkled baking soda on top of that in layers, then let it settle for a few mins. Then sprayed the hairspray very gently on top of the snow to seal it. That was only my 2nd diorama.

They are Wizards of the Coast miniatures from the board game/tabletop war game. Very cheap too, they cost £2-£3 each apart from the snowtrooper with the laser turret that was £11. The link to the ebay site is in the first post.

Very similar to mine with the rust weathering. The battle damage looks great.

I actually liked all of the prequel trilogy films, ROTS being my favourite. But I would like to see the whole field of Podracers being produced, I built the old 1997 AMT Anakin Skywalker Podracer & it turned out really well. If they made just Anakin's & Sebulba's Pod in the same scale as the old AMT kit, id be happy as I could finally build Sebulba's pod & put it with the one I already have & make a great dio. Wayne.

First of all, I would like to apologize to Patrick (dubster72) for calling him Richard in my video. Its finale time on my Bandai AT-ST on Hoth. Starting back onto the finishing touches on the AT-ST itself, painting the second coat of the XF-80 light grey. I started with the underneath of the head & the belly, than I black washed & using Humbrol's enamel rust wash picking out a few details here & there. Not worrying about the stories I had read of enamel wash attacking the Bandai plastic, as I had already primered & 2 coats of the light grey to protect the plastic. I then slowly but surely pushed the head onto the ball joint of the belly very slowly, not to do any damage to the head or belly & it eventually snapped into place. I then did the same treatment of the 2 coats of the light grey, black wash & rust wash to the guns, eyehole lids & the legs. Pushing the leg mounting pegs into the side of the belly very slowly, making sure not to snap the pegs & using my pressure clamps to help the push the last few mm's into place, then came the mounting of the completed AT-ST onto the base. Putting a little glue onto the feet mounting area on the kit base & pushing the feet onto the mounting pegs, the primer had made the peg holes on the underneath of the feet a little tighter, but it was really easy & the gravity of the AT-ST held the feet into place whilst the glue dried. Then came the snow effect, using the tip I picked off youtube about the PVA, white paint & bicarbonate of soda mixture, I couldnt get the crusty/crystalised consistency. Asking about here on the forums, Patrick AKA dubster 72 (sorry I said Richard on the video) gave me an awesome tip. Using hairspray & the bicarbonate of soda, I managed to get the perfect snow effect. There was still some daylight when I got home from work, so I got my foldable table & chair and took them both outside & sprayed the hairspray onto the base & sprinkled on the bicarb. Sprinkling the bicarb on the base, around & onto the feet & legs on the AT-ST, also a little more around the laser turret. Left it to settle for around 10 mins or so, I lightly sprayed the hairspray onto my snow by pressing the spray cap halfway down to get a slow & consistant spray (instead of blasting the snow) & left it outside to dry for an hour or so. Brought it back inside as the pungent smell of the cheap hairspray had gone & left it overnight to continue drying. The tip worked a treat, so thanks to Patrick for that. I then finished off the AT-ST with some Citadel Purity Seal, after I shook the can for a good five mins to make sure it didnt dry to the dusty effect I got on my Tornado model a couple of years back & the the purity seal dried clear with no problems. I did go a little overboard with the rust wash & with the snow on the feet, but I still think it looks great. Cheers, Wayne. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/robinsongamingsupplies Link for the Wizards of the coast minatures I bought.

I had a little practice with the hairspray & bicarb on a microwave pizza card box last night & it worked a treat. So I will be using that on my Star Wars dio. Cheers & thanks again. Wayne.

Thats gone down really well on your KT Dio, thats pretty much what I wanted on my dio. You were right, the paint did tone down the effect when it dried. I'll pick up some hairspray from poundland OMW home from work. Cheers, Wayne.

Almost finished with my latest build, but im having problems getting the snow effect right. I tried the PVA+White Paint+Baking Soda technique from a youtube video, using 1 equal part of each in the mix, but I couldnt get the crusty consistency when it dried. My wife suggested that I use the grass powder I have spare from my Munster House & paint it white, but im not sure if the grass will come loose (once dried) as I dab the white paint down with my brush. Im thinking about trying again with the baking soda, but using a lot more this time & I might also try the grass with the white paint on a bit of card later on. Any other tips? Cheers in advance, Wayne.

Now the cockpit/command area is done, now starts the main head construction. Which was snap-fitting the main head into the back of the dashboard, & aligning the side panels of the head onto the sides of the cockpit/command area. The back panel then went in & the cosmetic side panels snapped into place on the headpeice, along with the bottom panel which houses the belly support ball peice, the 3 peices of braided tubing & the mounting for the front cannon. The front cannon & side head guns were 4 part assemblies which were very fiddly indeed, but I managed to put those together. Now with all the main construction is complete, the AT-ST is all ready for primer. I used some double sided sticky tape to hold the lid down on the head & used the closed eyehole lids option so no primer would get into the cockpit. Once the primer dried, I started painting the AT-ST parts. Again using the Tamiya XF-80 Royal Light Grey, starting on the legs to which I removed the knee guards & painted underneath & then continuing down to the feet, but I left the underneath of the feet in the primer. Then removing the guards on the belly to get underneath & painting the light grey, making sure to get into the nooks & crannys & then putting the guards back into place. Then the completed head piece was painted next & there were a few streaks to contend with, but when the second coat went down they dissapeared. Whilst the paint dried, I started on the base, to which Ive decided to buck the trend of Endor & go with Hoth instead. Using some of the plank left over from the munster house base, I bought some 1cm thick square balsa dowling from Hobbycraft & glued it around the edges of the wood with some PVA glue & left it 24 hours to dry. Using some normal household filler, I filled in the hollow underneath of the kit base, to make a better all-round flat surface for the PVA to work whilst it was clamped to the wood base. This is a great way to make the kit base more sturdy (if you plan to use the kit base by itself) & it would prevent the AT-ST from tipping over. To create the ice wall, I found some flat foam packaging & using the glue & glaze to glue it into place. Once that was dry, I found a partial tube of silcone sealant so I decided to use that to fill in the wooden base. Even though the silicone dried perfectly, my star wars miniatures wouldn't glue the base, as the glue just sat on the surface refusing to dry, I had to cut out & remove the silicone (which was really easy) & resort to using the household filler. Once the filler dried, my star wars miniatures have now glued down a treat & now its time to paint on the snow & finish the final detailing on the AT-ST, so It can go on the base. Cheers, Wayne.

Not bad at all, like the ladder on the side of the x-wing. Weathering looks class.

A fellow diorama noob. I used one of the scene-a-rama kits from hobbycraft, cost £9.50 in-store The project glue in its little bottle was un-usable, as it had hardened inside it little bottle to silicone sealant consistency, but I watered down some micro crystal clear & used that to spray onto the wood. Sprinkling the grass powder on top of that & letting it settle for a few mins & then spraying my watered down MCC on top of the powder & let it dry for 24 hours, it worked a treat.

Liking the way you have tidied up the spaghetti junction that was the landing bays lighting. Agree with Hunter Rose, this is gonna be awesome once lighted up, the Pegasus is such an awesome kit by itself. Wayne.

Liking the way the stance looks like its a bit wobbly, like when the ewoks let the tree logs go under its feet in ROTJ. Nice mods there. Wayne.

Not bad at all. The simple mods you made & the sand weathering look great. Nice work. Wayne.