Deadman Disciple

http://www.mikesdecals.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_14&products_id=43&osCsid=5367537cb0f06938820a42aba999c978'>http://www.mikesdecals.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_14&products_id=43&osCsid=5367537cb0f06938820a42aba999c978 I think he also does the rest of the movie decal sets, I enquired about these a few months ago. Hope this helps, Wayne.

Using a F1 monocoque, a very interesting choice. Cant wait to see what you come up with. Wayne.

You could try Glue n Glaze. The bloke I bought if off at the Telford model fair last year said it was good for clear & PE. https://www.amazon.co.uk/making-crystal-windows-bonding-canopies/dp/B00TQWMGG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466511191&sr=8-2&keywords=glue+n+glaze'>https://www.amazon.co.uk/making-crystal-windows-bonding-canopies/dp/B00TQWMGG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466511191&sr=8-2&keywords=glue+n+glaze Had no problems with it on clear parts so far & holds really well, I havent tried it on PE yet. Wayne.

Its time to get ready for aztecing. But first I started with the markings on the bottom of the saucer which have to be painted on. I bought some Tamiya 87177 (2mm curved masking tape) after seeing a recommendation thread about it here. The tape went down really well & brushing some Klear on the edges of the tape to stop any paint bleed after receiving a tip (again from here) I started painting on Tamiya XF-80 grey for the ring. Whilst that was drying I masked off some of the other areas which had to be painted & painted those with Revell Aquacolor 36179 grey & applied some of the kit decals. The 2 ring line decals which go around the inner ring & some small grey square markings which have to be applied before the aztecs. Slowly pulling off the curved masking tape, the paint had dried brilliantly & no paint bleed & also the other masked off areas, which had to be tidyed up a little, but everything was now ready for the aztecs. Starting with the one half of the bottom of the saucer, I slowly made my way around, the aztecs had the feel of very thin film which folded over a few times in the corners & trying to get the corners to fold back over was very difficult indeed. Making the edges line up to the next aztec along wasnt too hard, but when I made it over to the last 3 sections, the secondary hull made it a bit awkward to get them into place & I had to change direction of the backing paper to slide off, but I got there in the end. I let the first half dry overnight & the next day I started on the other half, same again with working my over to last couple of sections near the secondary hull, but on the top & bottom of the neck the aztecs didnt meet & also around the inner circle I discovered I could have pushed them up a little more, as a small gap appeared. Not worrying about the slight gap issues, I then applied some microsol & left them to dry. Then I sealed all the bottom of the saucer with some Humbrol Glosscote & again left them to dry. Then came the inner ring, I applied the small aztecs along with some of the kit markings & they went down really well & microsol & sealed those. Now came the difficult bit, the secondary hull. Standing the saucer on its end working from the side, I slowly worked my way across & down the neck with the aztecs & everyone of the sections folded over & with me swearing at them trying to get them all to fold out (which I apologize for on the video) I got to the bottom on the end very frustrated, as I still had the other half to go. Fortunatley, learning my lesson from the first half, the other side went down swimmingly without any problems. A correction on the placement guide for the aztec nearest the deflector dish, it was 120 not 124. Then came a wierd occurance after I had sealed the secondary hull aztecs, the one aztec on the neck had totally faded away & im not sure how it could have happened. Whatever the reason was, maybe there was a little thinner residue on the brush that had mixed in with the glosscote or maybe I might have brushed a little too much on, im not sure. Then I started on the very few markings for the secondary hull, along with the federation logo & stripe, so if you plan on building this without aztecs, the secondary hull will look very bare indeed. Work continued, this time on the belly. Placing the aztecs along the belly both sides, MS'ing those & sealing them, the one decal I used from the aztec set started to break up & fade (for some strange reason) when I was applying it with microset & a little water. On the safe side I used the kit markings for those & im now waiting for those to dry. Apart from the little mishaps here & there along with frustrating secondary hull work, aztecing is going really well. Cheers, Wayne.

You need to give it a right good shake & sometimes a little stir aswell before use. Before I use Mattcote, I give it a good 2-3 mins shake, swapping it in each hand. Wayne.

Ive started on the aztecs, they had the feel of very thin film. They have gone down really well so far, after I patted them down with some damp kitchen towel to smooth out the creases & bubbles. Half down, the other half to go. Wayne

When I did my Mk.VII Colonial Viper, I used a normal pencil to color in the panel lines & used my finger to smudge them out. Then on a later Mk.I Viper I used some charcoal the same way. Hope this helps. Wayne.

Glad I could help. Happy spraying. Wayne.

I aint started aztecing yet, about to start some detailing that needs doing before the aztecs. I will let you know how they go down, when I start aztecing. Wayne.

Finishing off the main part of construction by glueing the saucer to the secondary hull, I nursed the neck & its holding pins into the saucer. Took a few mins to get it to lock 100%, then held it down the best I could with my clamps. Now the Saucer & Secondary Hull are complete, I started work on the Warp Nacelles. Started by glueing in the clear parts into each side of the inner parts of the nacelles using my glue n glaze, the small upper clear parts had to be laid flat into place, then came the main side inserts which have a small triangular cut out on each edge to be slid inside the hole & using a combination of the glue & glaze with normal model glue around the edges for a bit of extra security. Also there was a c-shaped clear peice that had to be glued into place between the upper & lower parts of the nacelle & clamped whilst the glue dried. Then I painted the clear parts from the inside with my Tamiya X-23 Clear blue which took a few coats. I then started to paint the nacelle domes from the inside with my X-23 mixed with some thinner & a few coats later (over a couple of days) they were ready to be glued onto their supports. Putting the nacelle dome decal onto the inside of the dome supports, I glued the supports to the domes & left them to dry. Also painting the exhaust clear parts (again in the X-23) the nacelles were ready to be put together. The first nacelle went together ok, but once I took the tape off after the glue dried, I noticed the nacelle dome assembly had dried cock-eyed & I didnt locate the locking notch correctly, to which the dome now sits behind. Just a seam issue to deal with & a small bit of filling to do, especially around the bottom of the nacelle (where the dome hadnt locked into place properly) Rince & repeat with the 2nd nacelle, but his time I managed to get the dome to mount correctly, but I had more filling issues to deal with than seams. Once the nacelles were complete, I went back to the saucer & secondary hull to primer. Using Humbrol Maskol to mask off the clear parts, which was easy to paint on, I left the clear parts to dry. I then started with my grey primer on the bottom side & turning over to spray the top side. Then came the white spray, which was rinse & repeat, then I shook my Citadel Purity seal for a good 5 arm-wrenching minutes & sealed, which has dried real nice. Taking the maskol off with my knife, tweezers & cotton bud stick, I have to top up by hand around the clear windows with some white & then I can start with the aztecs. Cheers, Wayne.

Halfords primer will stick to them no problem. I bought a set of these for my Belkits Ford Fiesta WRC & i painted on after the halfords primer went on a treat. Wayne.

Hmm, i never would have thought about doing that with Klear.I'll try that next time. Cheers, Wayne.

Success...... The Chloroform I got from work worked a treat. I sprayed a empty part of the clear sprue in the halfords primer, left it to dry. Then dipping a cotton bud in the chloroform & slowly rubbed the sprue & the primer came off after a few seconds. So far it does not look if the clear plastic has been attacked, been dry for 3 hours. The trick is, once the primer is off, leave it to dry, dont wipe it off as cleaning it off with another tip or paper towelling will turn the clear part cloudy. Although, I might test some WD40/soapy water on the chloroform while its wet, to see if the cloudyness can be removed. Also use a facemask & rubber gloves & if you plan to use the gloves again, rinse with soapy water.

Sadly, the WD40 didnt work. It removed a little of white on top of the primer, but the primer still remains. However, you were right about the shine it leaves behind. I put the nacelles together last night & TBH the domes dont look too bad, as most of the primer is in the far edges of the dome & the inner sidewalls of the nacelles have disguised them a little. The chemical supervisor is going to bottle me a little of the chloroform up & I will test a little of that on a scrap piece of the clear sprue first. Thanks again guys, for all your help. Wayne.

Hmm, I have some at home under the sink somewhere. Looking at that link you put up & googleing "can WD40 remove car primer" the results that the crappy PC at work will actually let me into, that sounds promising. I assume using a cotton bud dipped in neat WD40 & then a damp cloth dipped in soapy water to clean after will be fine? Cheers, Wayne

As the company I work for sells chemicals, I asked the chemical section supervisor if she had a spare drop of ammonia, but unfortunatley she didnt have any. She gave me some IPA last year in a 100ml bottle (as she had some spare) Then she told me that she had some spare chloroform & that its stronger than ammonia & bubbles up paint on contact, but she isnt sure if it will hurt the clear plastic. My wife says some nail varnish remover might do the trick & if she remembers she'el pick some up from any of the chemists in town.

Im just removed the masking tape off the nacelle domes on my JJ'Prise, but ive got a little paint bleed on the raised parts ive sprayed in halfords primer & white. Ive tried both IPA & white spirit with a cotton bud, but they havent worked. I need something that will remove the primer & that wont hurt the clear nacelle dome parts. Cheers in advance, Wayne.

Moving on with my next build, this time the Revell 1/500 USS Enterprise from Star Trek: Into Darkness. I bought this model from the toy fair at Birmingham NEC in June 2015, it was an absolute bargain at £10. The only thing wrong with it was that the box was very badly dented, but all the sprues were still bagged & luckily no parts are missing. The reason ive left it until now to start, is the fact I had to buy a set of aztec decals to do the kit justice & selling some old XBox 360 games with a couple of XBox One games I dont play anymore to CEX, I got £47.50, so that paid for the aztec set which cost £42.00 from ebay. Starting with the saucer section, I glued all the window clear inserts & glued the bridge & lower saucer centre pieces together & glued those into the centre of the both halves of the saucer. Then on the domes I painted some Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue, which took a couple of coats to get it right & also the same on the bridge windows & left those to dry. I then glued the 2 halves of the saucer together, lining up the pins to their respective holes was quite difficult, but they went in eventually & then pushed the edges around the saucer until they clicked into place. Putting the completed saucer aside, I then started on the secondary hull. Same as before, first glueing the clear window inserts & taping them down while the glue dries, once the glue dried I carefully removed the tape while holding down the inserts & started on the inside supports. Glueing the supports into place, making sure they sat 100% into the grooves and the sidewalls of the one half & glueing the shuttlebay door into place, again on the one half. As a precaution I decided to remove the 2 mounting notches on the top of the secondary hull, as ive read that if you attempt to test fit the secondary hull to the saucer section they will lock & prevent you from re-taking it apart. Then the spine section, with a small square insert & 2 small clear windows & painted those in the clear blue. Then came the hard part of the secondary hull. Glueing the spine into the one half to go with the previous inside parts & manoeuvering that, the shuttlebay door & the various locator pins into place whilst trying to stop the spine & inner from popping out, but I got there in the end. Once they all finally locked & glued into place, got my trusty electrical tape & taped the 2 halves together whilst the glue dried. One dry, I again carefully removed the tape & sanded all the seams down & glued the pylon/nacelle strut cover plate into place. Not having any locator pins to deal with, I aligned the cover the best I could & clamped it into place & again waited for the glue to dry. Removing the clamps & sanded down the seams on the rear of the pylons/nacelle struts, on the front face of the struts there was a raised panel line/seam which I was tempted to sand, but I wasnt sure if it was a raised panel line that should remain. To finish off the secondary hull, I glued in the deflector assembly minus the defector dish. So far its looking great. Cheers, Wayne.

You need to push in & twist the filters to get them to lock onto the mask. Wayne.

Nice work indeed, The white you hand painted looks great, you could try Microset & Microsol also for those awkward decals too. Wayne.

That look class. Liking the etched lettering on the case. Wayne.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1190613677645600.1073741837.152580141448964&type=3 This just popped up on my Facebook. These look good, not bad for the first attempt. Looks like they will do a cgi version & a full interior version too. Wayne

Hi everyone. Looking to make the Revell 1/500 STID Enterprise my next build, but I have a question about painting the clear parts. Looking at YT videos by 4Star Modeller, he stated he used Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue using an airbrush painting them on the inside & the clear parts went a transparent blue & turned out really great. But as I dont own an airbrush, I was wondering how I would get the same effect painting by hand or maybe by a Tamiya/Humbrol spraycan so the decals behind the nacelle domes are still visible. Ive painted clear parts in the past, but ive never had to deal with making the paint transparent. Also dont know how im going to paint the deflector dish to get the effect of the two-tone with the stripes against the whole of the dish. Any tips? Cheers in advance, Wayne.

Been pondering to build an Iron Man kit for a while. I saw the War Machine kit at the fair last year & I put it down in favor of the Cylon Raider. The paint finish on this is brilliant & its looks like its gone together really well. Nice job there. Wayne

I had the same problem trying to find one color to paint mine in, most of the guys here have mixed greys to make the grey needed to airbrush theirs. I used Tamiya XF-80 light grey as I couldnt find a Humbrol grey & it took 2 coats by me brush painting by hand. It was £1.90 from Hobbycraft in a little glass pot. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998335-holy-snowballs-lord-vader-an-at-st-on-hoth/ Hope this helps, Wayne.