-
Posts
333 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Media Demo
Everything posted by Deadman Disciple
-
Tamiya 1:20 1993 Newman-Haas Indycar
Deadman Disciple replied to Deadman Disciple's topic in Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
Cheers Phil, its always good to see different peoples takes on the same model. Microsol is a decal setting solution, when applied the decals will mould around different contours & stepping on your model, when dry it will also give it that painted on look. You still need to seal the decals with whatever sealing solution you use to protect the decals. Along with Microset, Microsol is an awesome product to use. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microscale-BMF128-Micro-setting-solution/dp/B0006O9K5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433176725&sr=8-1&keywords=microsol -
Tamiya 1:20 1993 Newman-Haas Indycar
Deadman Disciple replied to Deadman Disciple's topic in Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
Thanks Andy, The canopy Dirt Devil, Energizer & Gillete were a group decal. The lower sidepod were also a group decal in white with 3 small sponsors on top, along with the side rear wing. The nose was also a group decal too, cut in half. All the rest were singles, I did them a few at a time over the course of just over a week. -
Right meow! 1/8 Moebeius Catwoman
Deadman Disciple replied to Habu12's topic in Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
Liking the flaked effect. You must have the smallest brush ever to get the eyes & face detailing just right. An awesome job, very life like. -
Here is the completed build of the Indycar. The last few decals have been put on, I had a small problem with the left side K-Mart decal & I had to trim it down, also had a problem with the right-side front wing International decal. It decided to lift while I was brushing on the microsol & in the haste of trying to put it back while sol was working it broke up on me. Luckily, the complete set of decals ive ordered from a model site in czechoslovakia that will include decals for the racesuit & helmet, I will have 2 replacements. I have also drilled some more rivet holes & a couple of holes for the aerials (which started life as food bag ties) with my little mini drill. The tyres ive also sanded a little with some black sandpaper to create a scrubbed set effect, but the mould lines are still showing (no matter how much I sand them) Also, with its little brother to compare the two, I have had the Onyx die-cast Indycar since 1993. All I have gotta do is (hopefully) get a driver figure from a toy fair at the Birmingham NEC on the 21st June, also hoping there will be model kit sellers there too. But, im really happy on how the Indycar has turned out. Cheers, Wayne.
-
Belkits WRC Ford Fiesta - VR46 Rossi version
Deadman Disciple replied to Graeme's topic in Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
Nice job there Graeme. I have one of these, I made it with Ken Block Monster WRT decals from Rally Germany. I also put driver & co-driver figures in mine. How was fitting the bodyshell over the complete interior & rollcage for you. Mine was a right tight fit to squeeze in, at one point I thought I was gonna snap the bodyshell trying to open it over the rollcage. -
Tamiya 1/20 Nigel Mansell Newman-Haas Indycar
Deadman Disciple replied to Big Phil's topic in Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
Nice one phil, an awesome job. Did you have the same flimsyness problems with the wheel & steering rods as I did? How did you find putting the sidepods/cowling into place? Mine was a little fiddily, but it went in once I jer-jer-jiggled it a bit. -
Tamiya 1:20 1993 Newman-Haas Indycar
Deadman Disciple replied to Deadman Disciple's topic in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Cheers Riggers I double checked the instructions & it says that Goodyear should be on the upper both sides & Eagle should be on the lower both sides. -
Tamiya 1:20 1993 Newman-Haas Indycar
Deadman Disciple replied to Deadman Disciple's topic in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Some more progress on the Indycar. With the tips from you guys here at Britmodeller & SMA forums, also from comments on my channel, ive managed to cut away the engine cowling away from the side pods using the back edge of my craft knife. Using the craft knife to score away down the guideline, it eventually came free & with the slight bit of sanding I did, you would never think it was 1 piece originally. So, thanks guys for your awesome tip. After that I decaled the tyres, which were simply stuck on with the stickyness on the reverse side & they went on really easy. I then started on the side pod decals, but then instantly realising I had to install those onto the bottom chassis before putting the long white backed sponsor decals, as they required the top & bottom halves to adhere to. Also the completed rear wing & decals, then started on the engine cowling & left side side pod. But so far the decaling is going really well Cheers, Wayne. -
You were right, they came on a special sheet.Ive managed to lay them as per the instructions & they have gone down a treat. But I will still get a bottle of that Klear, so it saves me a trip up hobbycraft for the humbrol cotes. Thanks again guys for all your help.
-
Would that be this? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Multi-surface-750ml-floor/dp/B0033B9X1K/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Do you just put some in the cap (undiluted) & just paint it on by hand & let it dry before applying the decal?
-
Ive also found that the Halfords acrylic spray primers blend well into any panel lines & it wont fill them in either, when spraying I just give a light but good once over with it is enough, especially with a large project. I find their spray primer is way cheaper than model primers ive used in the past & does just the same job.
-
Halfords Acrylic white primer is good & so is their grey primer. The white is like a matt finish & it wont react to Revell Aquacolor & at £7.49 for 500ml, its really good value. Im using the white on my indycar & its gone down really well without the need for the grey primer first. Ive also used the halfords acrylic primers on resin & they have gone down well too.
-
Im not that far away from putting the "Goodyear Eagle" decals on to the tyres of my Indycar & in previous experience ive found tyre decals are a right pain in the.... But now I have Microset & Microsol, im wondering if they are safe to use on the tyres & not melt the rubber? Also im also new to using Humbrol Mattcote & Glosscote & will probably use either of those to seal the decals & seeing as you need to use thinners to clean brushes after using either, im wondering if they are safe to use on tyres. Cheers in advance. Wayne.
-
Mclaren mp4/27 2012 Australian GP
Deadman Disciple replied to shood23's topic in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Does it come with a driver figure? -
Tamiya 1:20 1993 Newman-Haas Indycar
Deadman Disciple replied to Deadman Disciple's topic in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Nice one guys, it worked a treat, just gotta sand down the edges. Thanks again. -
Tamiya 1:20 1993 Newman-Haas Indycar
Deadman Disciple replied to Deadman Disciple's topic in Work In Progress - Vehicles
More progress on the Indycar. Now the engine is complete, its now time to start work on the Indycar itself. I installed the rear cowling on the back of the engine after id primered it in Halfords white primer & sealed it with Humbrol Glosscote & put on the small decal on the wheel strut. Then the bodywork started, which was mostly white , again with the white primer & the seat which was quite easy to put inside the monocoque. I will be putting a driver figure for Nigel Mansell (once I find one thats not as much as I paid for the whole indycar kit) I again did have trouble with mounting the wheel assemblies, which were again were very flimsy, especially the tie rod which had to be pushed through the monocoque, but I got there in the end. Also snapping the competed monocoque onto the floor, which wouldnt 100% snap, but with 2 of my trigger clamps & some glue they did in the end. Last but not least, the engine cowling & sidepods. Im having a problem cutting the cowling from the sidepods, as my hacksaw blades are too thick, so if you guys could recommend a fine hobby saw that would cut through, that would be great. I was looking at the Tamiya 74111 saw, but not sure. Cheers, Wayne. -
Ever made a mistake and had an "Oh No"" moment?
Deadman Disciple replied to cruiserguy's topic in Paint
Ouch, was it a kit sheet or a custom sheet? Ive had a few in my time. First time using spray paint on my AMT Romulan Warbird, Id put the head-piece on some newpaper & sprayed, went back inside & the wind had blown the newspaper onto it & stuck, then I had to peel, scrape and re-do. Another time, id just bought a new cutting mat & whilst I was using my brand new 1 day old bottle of microset, I knocked it over & 3/4 of the bottle had gone all over my new mat, luckily Id got a small syringe & sucked most of the microset off the mat & back into the bottle. Yet another time, whilst working on my Aoshima Airwolf, I glued the 2 halves together not realising I had to glue the rear stabilising wing in from the inside & had a hard time time cutting the mounting tabs off the wing & pushed it through. Instantly, I called myself what James May says...... -
3D printing for after-market 'resin' components
Deadman Disciple replied to Beardylong's topic in Casting
Sounds like a great idea, once the prices start to come down for the home user. Problem is where would you be able to download a template from? Especially for difficult parts like a car wing, a mounted gun, or a pilot/driver figure?- 32 replies
-
- resin
- aftermarket
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hmmm, I wonder if I could use this method to make a spare drive figure for a F1 car. Have you tried putting the play dough in the oven? Maybe that might work to harden the dough.
-
I popped into halfords on my home from work today to pick up some grey acrylic primer & noticed the clear lacquer on the same shelf. In some of the build topics, some of you have mentioned using it to seal your models. I have a couple of questions..... How does it go down, once sprayed on? Whats the drying time? Does it actually dry clear & whats the finish like? Is it safe to spray directly onto decals? Ive used clear sprays in the past like Citadel Purity Seal & Plastikote with mainly dusty white results. Citadel Purity Seal was ok for my Moebius TOS Battlestar Galactica & my Revell USS Voyager, as they were light in colour. But on models where ive painted black or dark coloured decals, it again dried with a white misty finish. Cheers in advance, Wayne
-
DeAgostini 1/8 McLaren MP4-25
Deadman Disciple replied to roymattblack's topic in Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
That looks class, nice one. -
Again a bit thanks again to you Phil. Ive cancelled the HLJ order with no problems at all & ordered a set from the czech site £13.40 & free shipping. I bet mr finlay didnt expect his topic on his build would prove as popular as it has. Nice one.
-
Nice one Phil, Ive ordered a set, but unfortunately they havent got any stock & they are on backorder. Says anything up to 6-8 weeks, ive selected fed-ex delivey, 1080 yen for the decals & 1080 yen for delivery which combined is about £12. But then the email says shiping cost yet to be calculated? Never used these before so im hoping the costs stays the same. But if I mess up at least i'll have a spare set (once they arrive) Just got to get a cheap 1/20 figure, im hoping i'll be able to get one the toy fair at Birmingham NEC next month. A big thanks again to you Phil.
-
Nice work there Shaun, you have really gone to town on both these. Liking the carbon fibre detailing you have done too. I cant see on the previous pages, that this question not been asked. What blue is it that you are using for the Red Bull Blue & how do you blend in the silver pigment into it? I've seen the Revell version of this in my local Hobbycraft, and it comes with a little pot of Red Bull blue, but in previous experience with the little pots Revell insist on putting with there model kits sets, it wont cover the whole model. Looking forward to the final reveals. Wayne.
-
Here is my progress so far in building the Indycar. The instructions tell you to start on the engine, there is a seam on the main block, I did use glue putting the 2 halves together, as the snap-fit didn't lock properly, but as you progress with adding parts to the main block the seams disappear and no sanding is required. The Ford logo & Cosworth lettering wasn't deep enough to intricately brush, so I just went with a good once over with silver & tidied up around the edges with the black. Mounting the wheel rods was quite tricky, as they felt quite flimsy & applying too much pressure snapping the parts together could snap the rods, so I was really careful. Also maneuvering the parts around the rods was quite tricky too, but they snapped into place once in. I used a small drop of glue here & there, but mostly the snap-fit was really sturdy. Paint was:- Revell Aquacolor Steel (36191), Silver (36190), Black (36108), Brass (36192) Army Painter Gun Metal Warpaint Humbrol Acrylic Brown (26) Halfords Acrylic Primer (500ml) Im really happy on how the engine has turned out, now to start on the Indycar itself. Cheers, Wayne.