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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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About Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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    Boss Man

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    http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aberdeenshire, UK

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  1. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    F-86A in 1/48

    B-E-A-utiful model.
  2. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    1/200 British Airways Negus Super 737-236

    Excellent. I loved the 737-200 series and am also very fond of British Airways schemes. I admit I'd never heard of this particular kit before but it looks very good especially considering its age, or maybe that's the workmanship
  3. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Hello again from Scotland

    Welcome back
  4. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Lanc, Mossie, Tempest Camo

    I agree, that Dark Green has all the tell-tales of an outline shape later coloured in if only because the paint hasn't gone on full-wet up to the edge of the green panels.
  5. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Monogram 1/48 Boeing B-29 Superfortress

    I'm planning on having the bomb bay closed, so that can be the back-up plan. I'm already musing that I should cut off the kit's stub axles on the main gear legs, drill through and replace those with brass rod.
  6. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Monogram 1/48 Boeing B-29 Superfortress

    Exactly - those tongues can be drilled out so they still function, but it saves a little weight. Not much, but as the maths shows, every little bit saved at the back saves twice as much (or more) weight needed at the front The suggestion to fill the front half of the crew access tunnel is good - I hadn't thought of that! It's probably not a bad shout Troy, and I happen to have some from the r/c world again as they are popular for holding hatches on etc. If needs be, I'll do it Plan A was to use a rotary tool and sanding bit: ...but it's broken. Thinking back, I think I burned it out 4 years ago working the valve ports on my MG Midget cylinder head. Plan B is to use a power drill and flap wheel which works, but the battery needs charged. I've drilled out holes in one of the tailplane (horizontal stabilizer) tongues and I've got a little bit of thinning on one half done. I'll get more done with a recharge... Each half of the tailplane (one side, upper and lower parts together) weighed 19.3g before any fettling. In the state above (one piece partly thinned, the other not touched) the total weight is down to 18.3g. As per the previous post, that's >2g of nose weight saved already and the total weight on the mainwheels reduced by 3g (compared to a noseweight-only solution). There won't be any silver bullets here, but working away at the whole back end will see lots of small weight savings which will add up to considerable amount. Whether it's enough remains to be seen! Fullsize aircraft sometimes use a weight and balance sheet with lots of component masses positioned relative to a datum point. I may do something similar in Excel to track how much mass I'm managing to fit in where. By adding together all of the balance weights and how far ahead of the mainwheels they are, we can see how their various effects accumulate and see how far away from the final result we actually are. I am supposed to be in London Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday with day-job but due to administration barriers I don't have flights and accommodation booked yet so may well end up staying home. If nothing seems to happen here for the next few days, I am probably in London!
  7. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Monogram 1/48 Boeing B-29 Superfortress

    Some more thoughts on weights... Unlike most I have straddled many camps within a wide world of model making and there are things that the well-seasoned modeller of one camp takes for granted as common sense that seldom occur to well-seasoned modellers in other camps. One of the things I've done before is design, build and fly radio controlled aeroplanes. Like real ones, they have to balance or they don't fly. Every pilot/builder of flying models knows that the correct way to balance a model is to lighten the tail, not fill the front end with lead. Doing the latter results in the total weight going through the roof, the power to weight ratio dropping and the wing loading increasing. The somewhat dimmer aeromodeller tried to offset bad building by fitting bigger engines, but that does nothing to help the high wing loading and high stall (and therefore takeoff and landing) speeds. To arm myself with some data (me coming back to my Engineering roots here) I have inspected the rear fuselage and tail parts from the kit. These are very substantial mouldings and must be close to 2mm thick everywhere. Ignoring the wings for now, I taped the fuselage halves and tailplanes & elevators together and balanced the fuselage on the point where the main wheels coincide. The tailplanes have relatively massive locating tongues which overlap inside the fuselage. Even like this with interior parts missing and no wings, the tail is weighing over 90 grams on the scales: So why am I making such a fuss about the thickness of plastic back there? Because Engineering, that's why... Here are the moments about the Centre of Gravity (which needs to be at or ahead of the main wheels for this thing not to sit on its tail striker) The scale of the drawing is irrelevant because the moment arms only need to be in proportion with each other, not true to life - the results are the same regardless of the scale. The moment about the CoG at the tail (which I have labelled T and which is where most of the excess beef in the tail planes, elevators, fin and rudder are - there is more redundant weight ahead and behind) is the the mass on the scales times the distance from the CoG. The mass needed either immediately behind the cockpit (which I really don't want to do) to balance this out with only half the leverage (48mm ahead of the wheels) is as near-as-damn-it double, or 179g which needs to be considered an underestimate because paint, guns, some PE in the aft compartment etc is going to tip this a little further aft. Point B above the front lower turret is worse still needing 210g placed there to offset the tail's moment. The moral of the story is that for every 1 gram of redundant mass I can Dremel out of the back end of this thing, I save the need for an absolute minimum of 2 grams of counter balance up front which means the finished model is 3 grams lighter than it would have been had I left the tail as-is. If I am to have any chance of getting this thing to sit on its nose wheel without spoiling the interior I have to do this, and the main undercarriage will thank me later when I do. With the nose weight already stuck to the cockpit floor inserted into the fuselage, the same experiment on the scales still shows a residual weight of 60 grams on the tail. That means that if I don't try to lighten this thing's fat backside then I need at least another 120g up front immediately behind the cockpit.
  8. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Monogram 1/48 Boeing B-29 Superfortress

    Hi, that's a practical solution and one I might have to accept if tail-end lightening fails, but I really hope I can avoid it. I can't rationally explain why, but I think that would really grate on me Hi, you've been fairly quiet for a while unless I've been living under a rock (which probably is the case). How are you? I suppose I could, but I'm not sure they're good enough really. It could save myself some hassle in the long run I suppose. I haven't scaled these from anything real - they were just made to fit the PE parts. Maybe correctly sized bottles would be something marketable though? I'd have to measure some up next time I get to Duxford. Speaking of which - does anyone have any photographs of the inside of the nose wheel bay of Duxford's "Hawg Wild"? I had, but lost them with my hard drive failure at Christmas. I'm interested in Hawg Wild because it's unrestored, but any other unrestored airframe in the USA or elsewhere would also be of use. I've spent some time searching the internet for photographs and have only found Enola Gay which is painted silver, an unnamed aircraft in Interior Green and there is the Monogram instructions which call for Interior Green, but I trust none of these modern preservations or kit instructions as reference material for colours.
  9. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Monogram 1/48 Boeing B-29 Superfortress

    Hi Ian, I reckon more weight yet will be needed but I plan to use the space behind the engines and maybe the leading edges of the wings too inboard of the engines. Obviously that's less effective though. Really the back end needs lightened. I saw the same when I went to get the link for the Flightline Engineering set. I expect he still has the masters so could make another set of casting moulds. I imagine these will reappear in due course when he's got time and when there is a sufficient list of people asking for a set
  10. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Monogram 1/48 Boeing B-29 Superfortress

    Building up the other side reveals that the Eduard details clash with the Eduard details - note that the folded box when correctly positioned on its marked space on the main etching clashes with the nose-gear bay roof structure, and as a result daylight is visible along the joint where it shouldn't be. I will try relocating these, and if that doesn't work one of the boxes will be omitted. I find this a lot with Eduard PE so it's not really a surprise.
  11. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Best PE kit for academy Warspite 1:350

    Yes that's correct. If planning on going the whole hog with Pontos it's better to just buy the basic Academy kit for £40 or thereabouts as there is no way to buy "the other half" of the Pontos set thus you'd have a lot of duplication of parts.
  12. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Best PE kit for academy Warspite 1:350

    Pontos is the the absolute best of the lot here by a country mile. Even the Academy "Premium Edition" box set chose Pontos as their enhancements and indeed it included around half of the Pontos set.
  13. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Monogram 1/48 Boeing B-29 Superfortress

    One of the nose wheel bay side walls is done (and so is the sanding board that you are all no doubt wondering about)
  14. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Rivetting Tools

    Thabks folks. I don't like the sound of the Rosie the Riveter tool and the Trumpeter one likewise looks no good. The MDC one leaves proper round depressions behind but it's slow and easy to mis-place one. I was really hoping there was a wheel type that had the "teeth" rounded. The RB tool sounds the best of the three mentioned so far.
  15. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Monogram 1/48 Boeing B-29 Superfortress

    Done. Right - I want that big sanding board now...
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