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Gilles Pepin

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About Gilles Pepin

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 11/24/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montreal, Canada
  • Interests
    WWII and Cold War birds; 426 Squadron Lancaster BII, Typhoon Mk.Ib (first late), CF-105, Bristol Blenheim Mk.IVF
  1. I recently started building the first diorama depicting the Avro Lancaster B.II 'OW-L', 426 Squadron, RAF Linton-on-Ouse, 1944. While reading the first page of the assembly instructions, I noticed a potential inaccuracy (in my humble view) in the first paragraph of the historical information; the text reads, in part: "... with the addition of two extra Rolls Royce Merlins ...". However, all variants of the Manchester twin-engine aircraft were powered by Rolls-Royce Vulture engines. The exception was the four-engine variant Manchester III; this variant was powered by four Merlin engines, and was the first prototype of the Avro Lancaster. I copy the relevant specification from Wikipedia: Specifications (Manchester Mk I) • Powerplant: 2 × Rolls-Royce Vulture I 24-cylinder X-type, 1,760 hp (1,310 kW) each Please correct me if I am wrong. I only point this out to satisfy my near-obsessive attention to details.
  2. I recently built two Italeri 2734 Hawker Typhoons Mk.Ib (late) commissioned by the family of a WWII pilot. The first, code letters TP-X, is mostly an OOB model; the second, code letters SA-Q, is the "dressed-to-kill" iteration, using many available after-market components. I include historical anecdotes provided by the pilot himself, Dr. Peter Roper; a rare privilege indeed... "Jamais deux sans trois", as the French saying goes. Dr. Roper has commissioned the Canadian Aviation Heritage Centre to build the Airfix 1/24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib kit in full SA-Q livery. He and his son Dr. Mark Roper will personally deliver the completed model to the War Museum in Monts-en-Bessin (Normandy, France), where it will join his other Typhoon artifacts on display. Gilles Pepin is a retired investment banker For the full 13 page 'A Tale of Two Typhoons' document, email me at: gfpepin@sympatico.ca
  3. Good day all: I am the researcher/model builder for the Canadian Aviation Heritage Centre, in Montreal, Canada. I copy and paste an excerpt of a recent IPMS Canada posting: I am currently commissioned by Dr. Peter Roper to build three Typhoons models for him: 1) Italeri Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib (late/early) (kit IT2734) (note: Mk.Ib (late/early) are the type produced and delivered prior to MN130, with the 3-bladed props and the regular tailplanes, as opposed to Mk.Ib (late/late) which had the 4-bladed thrashers and the larger tailplanes); 198 Squadron, RAF Tangmere, code TP-X, serial MN137, March 06, 1944; its pilot, F/L Peter Roper, crash-landed during a night-training/escort mission; aircraft damaged beyond repair (DBR) 2) Italeri Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib (late/early) (kit IT2734, with almost every available aftermarket items available; I will write a review from a synergy perspective); 197 Squadron, RAF Thorney Island, code SA-Q, serial MN125, June 07, 1944; its pilot, F/L Peter Roper, was shot down by flak, seriously injured, PoW, …; google “Roper Typhoon” and choose “No time for fear…” for full article and fascinating recent interview 3) Revell Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib (early) (kit 4782, Paragon conversion to Mk.Ib (late/early)); same as SA-Q above; if you have read the CBC article mentioned above, you will understand why this model is to be permanently displayed at the war museum in Tilly-sur-Seulles (from what I hear, over the objections of the French, who claim they can do better than a Kanuk modeler, even a French-Canadian like myself; perhaps I will need to don a bérêt, wear a baguette under one armpit, and acquire a serious case of "after me, the deluge" attitude!) As stated above, Mk.Ib (late/early) are the type produced and delivered prior to MN130, with the 3-bladed props and the regular tailplanes, as opposed to Mk.Ib (late/late) which had the 4-bladed thrashers and the larger tailplanes. Please correct me if I am inaccurate. In any case, I need to purchase the Paragon conversion set. Being on the west side of the Pond, I can rely only on eBay, and none of the Paragon Typhoon 1/32 conversion kits are available. HELP! I need to complete that 1/32 scale Typhoon before May, 2016. Thank you in advance, Gilles Pepin gfpepin@sympatico.ca
  4. Update on the ModelingMadness review: it can be accessed directly by this link: http://modelingmadness.com/review/korean/can/pepincf100.htm
  5. My review of the CF-100 (1/72) I built is now on Modeling Madness (for now, on "What's New", not yet in the kit index). Photographs are terrific. I still cannot figure out how to posts pics here! Gilles Pepin CAHC/CCPA
  6. Hello all: I will simply copy/paste the following email from the pilot of TP-X: From: Peter D L Roper, Dr (peter.roper@mcgill.ca) Sent: Sun 3/22/15 3:06 PM To: Gilles Pepin (gfpepin@sympatico.ca) Cc: Mark E A Roper, Dr (mark.roper@mcgill.ca) Hello Gilles again, Is it worth-while to tell Bill, Edgar and anyone else the following details about MN 137? That it had no landing lights or they had both been covered up. and that there were no landing light switches in the cockpit either. Regards, PR
  7. Hello: I am the researcher and model builder for the Canadian Aviation Heritage Centre in Montreal, Canada. I am currently building this kit (minus the anti-personnel bomb cluster) as XK-E, serial number Z5733, 272 Squadron (RAF Aldergrove), March 10, 1941, as flown by Canadian Flight Sergeant Peter Chanler. Flight sergeant (RAF Volunteer Reserve, service number 745661) Peter George Victor Chanler, a native of Toronto, Ontario, “went for a Burton” on March 10, 1941 at age 21 while piloting a Bristol Blenheim Mk.IVF on a convoy escort mission over the North Channel from RAF Aldergrove, Northen Ireland (272 Squadron). Another Blenheim Mk.IVF from the same squadron went missing on that sortie and it is very likely that the two collided in daytime (+/-1100 hrs) near-zero visibility (heavy low clouds and fog), as this would explain the lack of radio transmissions between the two aircrafts and the base. His aircraft bore the squadron identification code XK-E, and the airframe number Z5733; his crew members were Sgt. H.K. Pass and Sgt. W.A. Newton. Z5733 was produced by A.V.Roe & Co. Ltd., Chadderton, Lancashire, part of an order of 420 aircraft, contracted June 06, 1940 (batch Z5721-Z5794). Can anyone help me locate photographs of that aircraft? Thank you in advance, Gilles Pepin gfpepin@sympatico.ca
  8. Hello Bill and Edgar (and anyone else who can help): My name is Gilles Pepin. I am the researcher and model builder for the Canadian Aviation Heritage Centre in Montreal, Canada (web site: www.cahc/ccpa.com ). I am currently building the Typhoon Mk.Ib (late/early) flown by F/L Peter Roper on June 07, 1944 (shot down by flak, ...) SA-Q MN125. He also flew TP-X MN137 (198 Squadron), when his engine cut during night training, belly landed and hit a hedge, West Malling on March 06, 1944 (DBR). He told me he ended up very close to the pilot hut. As I am building that one for him as well, any information as to colour scheme, photograph(s), anything at all, would be greatly appreciated. We (the Centre) are honoring his war-time efforts on June 07, 2015. Many thanks, Gilles Pepin gfpepin@sympatico.ca
  9. Hello Patrick: Thank you for your interest. I have tried to post the 10 pics, but unsuccessfully. I just do not know how. HELP! Gilles Pepin gfpepin@sympatico.ca
  10. KIT: Hobbycraft 1/72 CF-100 Mk.4B Canuck KIT # 1391 PRICE: Less than CDN$20.00 (2015) DECALS: One aircraft: Mk.4b REVIEW & PHOTOS : Gilles Pepin NOTES: Aftermarket: Obscureco Detail Set (Mk.4/5) OBS72009 and CanMilAir Decal Sheet (custom made for airframe 18597) Contact information: www.CAHC/CCPA.com Photographs available upon request. The CF-100 Canuck was the first fighter aircraft to be designed and built in large quantities in Canada. Avro Canada started development in 1946 in response to an RCAF requirement for a two seat, all weather fighter. The CF-100 first flew from Malton (Toronto) in January 1950. Although not quite as fast as smaller contemporary fighters, its excellent climb, fine radar and fire control systems, twin engine reliability and all-weather capability made the CF-100 probably the best all-weather fighter of its time. It entered RCAF service with No. 3 OTU, North Bay, in July 1952 and at its peak equipped nine interceptor squadrons across Canada. In 1956, a further four squadrons were moved to Europe to serve with NATO. The CF-100's main role was interception of Soviet bombers that penetrated Canadian and Western European airspace. Early sidered second to none. When compared to its American counterpart, the F-89 Scorpion, the CF-100 is considered to be superior in all aspects. The Canuck also served in the Royal Belgium Air Force from 1957 to 1960 (Belgium purchased 53 Canucks). When retired from their interceptor role by the RCAF, some aircraft were fitted with electronic countermeasures (ECM) equipment. It was intended originally that the CF-100 should be replaced with the Avro Canada CF-105 Arrow, but this project was cancelled in 1959. The CF-100 was replaced eventually as an interceptor by the McDonnell CF-101 Voodoo in 1962. The Canadian Forces continued to operate the CF-100 until December 1981, when it was finally phased out. A total of 692 CF-100s, spread over five marks, were produced between 1950 and 1958. The Canuck was affectionately known in the RCAF as the Clunk because of the noise the front landing gear made as it retracted into its well after takeoff. The aircraft depicted here is a Mk.5, airframe 18597, in service with 414 (EW) Squadron and AETE (Aerospace Engineering Test Establishment) at RCAF Uplands (Ottawa), as flown by the current president of the not-for-profit Canadian Aviation Heritage Centre (Montreal, Canada) and retired RCAF pilot John Lawson (who also flew CF-101 Voodoos, ...) CONSTRUCTION This being a Hobbycraft kit, forget Steps 1 and 2 (Interior assembly and Cockpit assembly) of the rather vague instruction sheet. Obscureco (OBS) (Google Obscureco; email address bucholtzc@aol.com) cockpit all the way. Remove the shelf between the front and rear cockpits. Follow the OBS instructions for fitting, installing, and painting. The Martin-Baker Mk.2B seats are terrific, but once painted should only be added at final assembly, making masking of the cockpit during painting much easier. Google MB MK2b images for clear paint guidelines. A word of caution: these OBS resin parts will ALL require serious sanding; so a respirator mask is de rigueur, as is a Dremel-type rotary tool with an 80 grade rotary sanding brush. Keep fitting until just right. Use thick-gel CA to attach to the upper front fuselage and some Milliput to fill in the gaps between the sidewalls and the cockpit tub, and thin styrene to close the gap behind the rear cockpit seat frame and the arch of part B1. Step 3: install the OBS wheel well as instructed. Then follow the OBS instructions for their excellent air intakes, again using thick-gel CA to attach. Do not worry about outer fit; simply putty, sand, putty, well, you know the routine. As I am modeling a Mk.5, I did not have to worry about the anti-icing system; Mk.5s were not equipped with these. Then install the kit-supplied engine exhausts as indicated. Step 4: the small windscreen (dipped in Future) should only be attached at the end. If building gear down, stuff as much lead/putty in the nose as will fit (the weight of the OBS resin cockpit helps prevent tail-sitting). Step 5: straightforward. Sand wing root joints of assembled wings. Step 6: first, the empennage/rudder assembly: remove 1mm from inboard portion of elevators, then cement horizontal stabilizers to rudder (be patient, as it is time-consuming to get just both the correct location and angle). Then the kit-supplied electronics cooling scoop: way too narrow for this particular aircraft, but fine for all other Mks.; install it at this time. Wings/fuselage assembly: how in the world are the wings supposed to remain attached to the engine nacelles for more than 6 minutes? Hmm Hobbycraft at work again. Resist using CA, as the wings will eventually snap off under pressure. Use a 3 long brass rod, making sure you drill the two holes next to the engine nacelle slits FORWARD of the wheel well, but aft of the nacelle slits, and insert the rod (refer to photograph); carefully drill matching holes in the wing roots. Cement the wings to the nacelles (putty, sand, putty, ). You can adjust the dihedral much more accurately (not to mention easily) by using this homemade spar method. Leave the clear canopy aside for now (you can dip it in Future now, and let dry vertically, with the forward end pointing down, for 24 hours). Last but not least, attach the tail section to the fuselage (ignore the temptation to line up the main fuselage and tail section side panel lines, as they do not line up perfectly). Step 7: the wingtip tanks. If you look very closely at the photograph of the tanks, you will see that the light enclosures cover the entire tip of the wingtip, are transparent, and that the upper inboard quadrant of each is painted black, so as not to interfere with the crews night vision; my solution: I purchased some Pure White Indoor/Outdoor LED X-mas tree replacement bulbs, carefully cut the tips off, glued these on with Formula 560, Future-dipped the tips a few times, then masked the whole glass. Step 8: refer to Step 9.5. Step 9: attach the 8-gun part A8 cemented in position (trick: use a toothpick: the pointed end will fit in one of the gun holes, acting as a guidance tool). Gear up: install. Gear down: secure them for primer/paint. From Step 10: attach the wingtip fuel tanks (did I mention putty?), but not the pitot tube (you should replace part B11 with hollow K&S Precision Metals 1/32 x .006, .79375mm round brass tubing brass #815035). Step 9.5 (while something is drying/curing): flat black, flat aluminum, getting the landing gears ready for installation, using the OBS main landing wheels and the kit-supplied nose wheels. PAINT & DECALS Cover the cockpit well and prime the aircraft. I am painting 18597 flat aluminum (Tamiya X-16), with the radome semi-gloss black (Tamiya X-18) and all anti-glare surfaces flat black (Tamiya XF-1). Wheel wells and inner landing gear doors are done in light grey (Tamiya XF-66). Seal with many airbrushed coats of Future. Washes for wheel wells, engine intakes and exhausts and whatever else works for you come next. I highlighted the air brake lines and flap/ailerons/trim tabs with a Sigma Micron 005 pen, as I have a love-hate (mostly hate) relationship with washes and other weathering solutions (they turn out to be more of a problem than their name implies). Once the ink is perfectly dry, tone the lines down with a fresh pencil eraser; the excess ink not in the engraved lines came off like a charm. Refer to photographs. CanMilAir (www.canmilair.com/) custom decals, complete with positioning instructions, were next. These decals are custom-printed using solid resin inks; the images are transferred from the colour ribbons onto the decal paper using a thermal print head; you will need a hair dryer, liquid decal film, and setting solutions; follow the very clear instructions. A word of caution: these superb decals are THIN, so if you are positioning, for example, an RCAF roundel over a split-colour pattern as I did for the upper wings, you will have to paint the surface that will be covered by the white portion of the decal the lighter colour of the split (in this case flat aluminum, recoated with a light application of Future). Then seal the aircraft with Future. DETAILS Add kit-supplied control column and ejector seats to cockpit and touch up cockpit details with dry-brushed silver. Attach landing gear sub-assemblies, landing gear doors, brass pitot tube (in sanded down and drilled out port wing pitot stub hole), and dressed-up canopy in fully slid back position (note the proper angle on the first photograph), once you have separated (and attached) the front windscreen from the sliding portion of the canopy (I use a fine metal Dremel saw at high speed). Attach the small windscreen from Step 4 now, creating a slit between the back of the pilot seat and the radar console, using the same Dremel saw. Do not forget to paint the windscreen deck flat black. Et voila! CONCLUSIONS For many of us Canucks wishing to build Canucks, Arrows, Norseman, ..., Hobbycraft and Modelcraft are the only games in town in any scale. These kits all suffer from the same deficiencies, a normal consequence of their relatively short-run nature: Coke crate cockpits and infuriatingly generic landing gears. The confinement of cockpit tubs, seats, and assorted items to your unused parts stash is inevitable; the Obscureco detail set for this CF-100 is an absolute must; the kit-supplied decals are, hmm, Hobbycraft, so aftermarket decals are a must; the CanMilAir decals are prototypically accurate and available in any configurations/scales; consult their web site for any of your RCAF models. An excellent model can be achieved from these Kanuk Kits. The end result of this build is now on display at the Canadian Aviation Heritage Centre (www.cahc/ccpa/com ). Gilles Pepin is a retired investment banker and is the researcher/model builder for CAHC REFERENCES The Avro CF-100 by Larry Milberry (CANAV Books, Toronto, Canada) William Burns, proprietor, CanMilAir Decals Canadian Aviation Heritage Centre (we have nearly 6,000 publications in our library) Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum - Avro Canada CF-100 Canuck
  11. Good day Chris: I am the researcher and model builder for the Canadian Aviation Heritage Centre in Montreal, Canada. I am currently building 2 Typhoons Mk.Ib, one for our Centre, the other for Dr. Peter Roper, a resident of Montreal still going VERY strong at age 92. He is the unnamed pilot of MN125 who was shot down by flak on D+1 while flying the 'borrowed' MN125. Google "Roper Typhoon" to view both the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) for full details AND a fascinating 3 minute video clip of a very recent interview. More on the models if you wish. Gilles Pepin
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