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Antti_K

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Everything posted by Antti_K

  1. Thank You Gentlemen I'm getting the impression that a "Cab" is better than a "Kite" To be honest this scheme looks great to my eyes also. BR, Antti
  2. That's nice to hear perdu Indeed, people seem to love Her... and that of course makes me happy! BR, Antti
  3. Hello Slater, Draken was an "Energy Game" fighter. This means that you couldn't allow the air speed to drop (it was a super stall aircraft). In practice this meant that all maneuvering had to be vertical. Air-to-air combat in level flight had to be planned carefully and turning radius could have been hundreds of kilometers depending on the air speed and altitude. We have photos of SR-71 here in Finland that were taken by the QRA Draken (or "Rysky" as it was affectionately known) pilot. Best Regards, Antti
  4. Thank You David Oh yes! I have watched "Mission 66" at least a milli many times For sure you won't win awards with that acting. Another film called "Borneo Escort" (Hellohellohello) gives also some 60 Squadron Javelin footage and is far less cheesy. I must check Barracuda Models forum; it's totally new for me. BR, Antti
  5. Hello Levin, I use BR very often; it means "Best Regards". I don't know if it is correct as English isn't my first language either. BR Antti
  6. Good Evening Levin, Very interesting subject and a good start. I will be following this with great interest. Have you seen this?: https://namu.wiki/w/B-17 You have to scroll down the page but there is a very good photo of the Bombardier's position. To my eye it looks like the "stool" is the bomb sight mount. BR, Antti
  7. Some more work has now been done so it's time for an update. The fuselage is now complete. I build the tail ready although I won't attach it just yet. It will be easier to mask and paint the 60 Squadron "Tiger Stripes" when you need to handle only the fin. The surface detailing on the fin is spot on for Mk. 9. If you want to build an earlier mark (say FAW.4) you have to prepare yourself to make alterations as the service hatches are in different places and also different in shape. Airfix meant the rudder to be movable (who remembers those kits from the 70s with moving control surfaces). The tail plane can be built movable with very little effort but still the elevators won't follow. I decided to go with fixed control surfaces. It was a little tricky in both Javelin kits to get the rudder align properly. Here is "Echo" photographed on 13 April 1967 above Singapore. Note the small re-painted area at the fin root. Similar paint work is visible also on some other 60 and 64 Squadron Javelins. I guess this is because the fin attachment points were modified after XH747 broke midair on 10 February 1964. Before I start work with the wings I will finish the ailerons. They are very thick when the halves are glued together. Don't panic! Everything is just fine. Have a look at these photos: Three points of interest: - The aileron trailing edge is thick - There are "faceted surfaces" at the aileron tip - Visible rivet lines on the aileron Thick aileron trailing edges are actually a common feature on many Cold War era jet fighters. They were used to increase Roll-Rate. Using the latter photo you can also easily verify that Airfix got the wing upper surface and Vortex generators just as they should be. Good job Airfix! Note also small details at the flap's edge. This is how it looks on plastic after some cutting and sanding: If you are building a parked Javelin then both ailerons should point up! Actually they are above wing trailing edge level also in flight but not so much. The pilot applies a Control Lock before shutting down the engines. This turns the ailerons up. Have a look at this photo: BR, Antti
  8. Thank You crobinsonh Javelins are a passion for me so it is easy (and fun) to check every detail twice ...at least BR, Antti
  9. Thank You Ascoteer for your excellent posting I love to read these as I am an aviation instructor (CTKI) myself. I guess you can easily determine my main subject BR, Antti
  10. Here is a caption from one the photos I used when I was planning the paint scheme. Note the difference between the colour of the bottom surfaces and the roundel and individual code (002). The bottom colour (Insignia White) is clearly more warmer in hue than Roundel White. An other interesting detail is the freshly re-painted auxiliary tank. Was it painted with British EDSG or with American paint? One source suggested that only "British" paints were carried aboard HMS Ark Royal. I chose Hu 123 (EDSG) for my tank. Note also that the radome is coffee brown not black and the rear part has some grey patches where the canvas cover was placed. BR, Antti
  11. Thank You Baron, David and Michael I used Humbrol enamels. My model shows XT861 as She was back in 1971 still carrying the original American paintwork. I chose Hu 27 for the "US Dark Sea Grey" rather than British Extra Dark Sea Grey (Hu 123) which seems more blueish to my eye. An interesting detail is that there is a stencil in the rear fuselage specifying the external finish. It says "Dark Sea Grey". I have a photo where brand new FG. 1s and a sole FGR. 2 stand side by side; the original American grey colour is the same in both airframes. For the under surfaces I used Hu 34 (Matt White) as it gives together with Hu 35 and Hu 135 (clear and satin coats) the desired slightly off-white end result. The American Insignia White can be described as "Ivory" or "Cream" rather than a pure white. Note that the British paint gave a "pure" white surface. BR, Antti
  12. Thank You Mark and John! Very kind of You Mark: if "Hangar Deck Space" at my place ever runs out I'll "divert" Her to you BR, Antti
  13. Thank You John and welcome aboard! I started using bullets with some actually floating U -boat models. Because pistol bullets are covered all over with copper there are no real problem with lead (I might be wrong...wouldn't be the first time ). I have a Type VIIc U- boat in 1/72 scale on the pipe line. I wonder how much weight I need to add to get that floating properly... BR, Antti
  14. Thank You phildagreek, bigbadbadge and russ c I have been painting with Humbrol enamels and brushes exclusively. Most of the "new Humbrol" paints are very difficult to apply by brush: they are very thick and somewhat difficult to thin properly. It may also take ages for them to dry. And the surface is still sticky. Some shades are terrible like Hu 11, 56 and 191; two greys and one tin of clear cote with some silver powder in it... Once I have used the "Good Indian Humbrols" I don't know what to do I have already bought an airbrush and some Tamiya acrylics but... All ideas are very welcome. BR, Antti
  15. Thank You all for these compliments and kind words This project was a bit of a rough ride at times but Your comments tell me that it was well worth the effort. BR, Antti
  16. Thank You all for Your kind words I set the fuselage aside for a while and continue working with some other items. As this will be a FAW.9R I think it is time to find out what that means. FAW.9 is basically a FAW.7 upgraded to FAW.8 standard but with British AI radar and without Sperry Autopilot. So no "new" FAW.9s ever left the production line. I guess You already knew that My model (XH766) was originally a FAW.7 that was converted to a FAW.9 standard and handed to No. 64 Squadron during November 1959. Three years later it was further converted to FAW.9R standard. All together 116 FAW.7s were converted to FAW.9s. Later 45 aircraft were converted to Mk. 9 F/R standard equipped with in-flight refueling equipment (piping, valves, probe...). The final stage was to further modify 41 Mk. 9 F/Rs to FAW.9Rs which were also capable of carrying up to four 230 Gall tanks in wing pylons. The kit provides you: - The Flight Refueling Probe - Four 230 Gall wing tanks - The two small hatches beside the navigator hood on the starboard side - Pylons for missiles but NOT for tanks Maurice Allward's book "Gloster Javelin" is the resource to use when you are checking individual aircraft for it's conversion status. You may also find this very useful: http://www.millionmonkeytheater.com/Javelin.html Here is my "Fuel System Check List" for XH766: - Flight Refueling Probe - Into the spares box - Two small "extra" hatches on top of starboard intake - Don't fill the panel lines - Ventral tanks - Use them - Wing tanks - Use only two (for inboard pylons) So let's cut some plastic again and start with the ventral tanks or "Bosom Tanks" as they were called. Let's have a look at this photo first. As you can see there is a small gap between the ventral tank and fuselage. When checking some close-up photos it seems that there is a gap which has been filled with a black rubber seal. Note also the three white bands on Bosom Tanks. Kit decal sheet provides you with tan coloured bands with red lettering. So far I have seen only white ones with black lettering. A point to remember later on. I solved the problem like this. I will paint the "sealing strip" with black and hopefully it will look convincing. In both Javelin kits I noticed that the engraved panel lines on the ventral tanks were especially "soft" so I "sharpened" the details. More work is needed with the wing tanks. I believe (I am not sure) that these tanks are actually the same that were carried by Hunters. The general shape and details are (almost) identical. The first step is to reshape the tanks as they are too blunt. The tank pylon then.Unfortunately the parts for the external stores are the worst in otherwise excellent kit. The fit is poor, panel lines don't align properly and so on. Here is what you need to do to get a better looking tank pylon. That's all for now. I hope to see you all again soon BR, Antti
  17. Thank You Steve and batcode It is nice that you like my model. BR, Antti
  18. Thank You Mac, it looks like you like my Phantom BR, Antti
  19. Thank You Troffa and Duncan I quickly checked some photos and realized that the air brakes really are open on the ground Thank you Duncan for that info! BR, Antti
  20. Hello Pete57, I have been flying with "old" Lear Jets (24, 25 and 35). They all have gloss white landing gear legs and working cylinders. All the bays (avionics, landing gear, "Hell Hole") are painted with yellow zinc chromate paint. On some components the colour looks more greenish than others. I'm sorry but I cant help you more with Learfan. Best Regards, Antti
  21. Thank You Gentlemen I just might build the "Flying Can Opener" as I was very "serious" about it last time... And this time using resin intakes to save time and trouble. I also think that best results are achieved using Aires jet pipes but Hasegawa part for the rear end. It looks more like the real thing. BR, Antti
  22. Thank You Ex-FAAWAFU For me it usually goes something like this: - Ooh, a new kit, sooo beautiful! - I glue this into that and paint it with... wait a minute... yes with interior grey green - This is sooo fun! - Oh, there is one bolt missing here. No problem, I'll fix it in no time. Where's my Pin Vise and drill bits? - Got it, got it, got it. Happy! - Oh dear it looks like the whole panel is in the wrong position. Now what do I need to get it fixed - Who made the moulds? I want to talk to him right away. There is a whole millimeter missing from the root chord. And so it goes further And I love it. I only built models of aircraft that I am really interested in. So I read the Aircrew Manuals, books, magazines... the lot. I guess at least some modellers recognize themselves as well. BR, Antti
  23. This project started last winter as FGR.2 XV436 of No. 6 Squadron. Then I read Aircraft Artificer Lionel A. Smith's "Phantom at sea" from the book "Phantom from the cockpit". It was "hook-up" for the FG.1 and "bolter" for the FGR.2. Lionel Smith was sent ashore to NAS Roosevelt Roads (Puerto Rico) on June 1971 when XT861 was diverted to the island to make some repairs on the "Cab". His style impressed me at once and I started to build my first ever RN aircraft. I built the model using Aires seats, jet pipes, wheels and air scoops. A lot of scratch building was required because I made the keel box and engine air intakes myself. A lot of re-scribing and rivetting was also required. Finally I painted the model with a brush using Humbrol enamels 27 and 34 and when the decals were on (343 of them to be precise) two final coats of Hu 135 was applied with a "Leonard's" brush. Weathering was made with "Caran D'ache" oil baesd crayons. As this was FGR.2 boxing the decals came from Alley Cat, Extra Decal, Hasegawa, Icarus, Impact Models and Model Alliance. It's a shame that no one provides good quality stencils for the British Phantom. Let's see some photos. I hope you like them I add a couple of WIP photos also if they are allowed to show you some details I mentioned about... Here is the home made Keel Box and engines. Intakes made from styrene sheet, Milliput, a pair of surplus tanks and Compressor wheels. The air brakes were closed in parked aircraft but this was too good a detail to miss... Note also the scratch built Auxiliary Air Door. Best Regards, Antti
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