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BikingLampy

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About BikingLampy

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  1. So this one took WAAAY longer than it should have done. Major issues with my (then) choice of primer, Stynlrez - as soon as I started applying masking for the topcoats it all just peeled straight off the plastic. No adhesion what so ever, so a full strip off job (mostly with parcel tape!) and start again. OOB, except for some masking tape belts, Vallejo Model Air, Alclad primer. Enjoy
  2. **update**. So it appears that Dropbox is no where near as use friendly as it seems, as I can see the pics fine, but you lot can't. Have now wrestled the utter gaping bungholes at Flickr into submission, so hopefully these will now work... Latest one off the bench. Got it just before Christmas in the Aldi special offer - supposed to be the Red/silver "Lollipoop" machine, but came with decals for "Rose Marie/The Kelly Kid 2", so that's what I built!. Yahu IP, Quickboost seat with harness (way easier than trying to faff with photoetch belts! Filled the wing panel lines as per the real thing. In the plastic, you can just see the faint lines of the panels, so it comes out quite nicely. Usual (I'm told) wonky undercarriage, but I managed to get both joystick and aerial off the sprue, intact and usable. A first attempt at big areas of metal paint. Reasonably happy, although some of the shades haven't come out as expected and others have got lost by the camera (there's 5 different paints there). Also an experiment with pastels for weathering, which seems a bit more controlled than oil dot. A couple of annoying canopy related flaws. - the glue leaked under the windshield and is visible in the side window - didn't spot it as the windows were all masked up; and the masking at the tail end of the hood was a bit pants, so the border is a bit indistinct. Alclad primer and varnishes, Vallejo for the rest. Enjoy! BL...
  3. I've just got to the end of painting a 1/72 Mustang, which is my first attempt at a "natural metal" finish. It's come out alright so far, but its showing up some pretty obviuous greasy fingerprints that I'd like to lose before I gloss coat it for decaling. The finish is all Vallejo acrylics - Model Air and Metal Colour What will be the best solvent to use that will cut the grease, but not damage the paint; and applied how - whenever I've tried wiping a model down before, I usually end up with more lint left on it that I started with and getting rid of it is generally quite arduous. (the next NMF finish will involve a pair of gloves...!) Thanks all!
  4. Howdy, Next up on the bench is a 1/72 Airfix Mustang - one of the Aldi specials. It's going to be my first attempt at a natural metal finish. I understand I need to fill most of the wing panel lines (and found a diagram on here some time ago, so know what to aim for). ...but what colour paint should I be picking to do the silver(s)? If I understand right, they were largely painted in "aluminium paint", but various (removable) panels appear to be different shades - made of magnesium alloy? eg here I'm planning on using the Vallejo Metal Colour paints, as they seem, on relatively limited experience, to spray nicely. Polished Aluminium seems a popular choice for the bulk but isn't a Vallejo name... I'm sure this has been done before, but my google-fu is feeling weak today, so please feel free to call me a pillock if I've missed the bleedin' obvious. (although a link would be handy too! Thanks! BL.
  5. So here's the Airfix FW190 starter kit which was on special in Aldi just before Christmas Built OOB, plus masking tape seatbelts. Vallejo Model Air paints, Flory washes. On the whole pretty happy with it. Went together fairly easily, despite some fairly wonky parts. The big success was spraying the white crosses on the upper wings to avoid all the silvering that would come with the kit decals. You can tell if you look closely, but ONLY if you look closely! First attempt at exhaust and gun staining - passable for a first go, but could be better. I'm still having problems with the gloss coat - as soon as I start trying to spread the oil dots, the varnish (Vallejo Acrylic) gets wiped off as well... Demarcation between the blue and the upper camo is possibly rather more wiggly than it should be... Panel wash is a bit OTT, but it's a bit binary, especially in 1/72.... Annoyingly the hairial was drum taught until I carried the thing out into the cold damp conservatory this morning to take the pics whence it went immediately saggy...!
  6. Hi, After some advice please re: Stylnrez. I'm having no end of trouble with it just not adhering to the plastic This is the second model I've tried it on. It sprays lovely (0.5 needle @ 30psi straight out the bottle), but there's patches where it just flakes as soon as I come near it with anything - I've just had some come off when trying to sketch camo demarcation lines in with an HB pencil. The first model I tried I had ended up handling a lot and there had been much filling & sanding, so I wondered whether I'd managed to contaminate the surface, but this one I've been very careful to a) wash and rinse the sprues b) only handle the model with clean dry hands. There are plenty of areas where it seems to have taken properly and doesn't chip when poked, but there's plenty of bits that it's just falling off. As I now have to mask for the camo, I'm not looking forward to the next bit, as I can see trouble ahead when I try to get the tape off - even detackked before use! Is there anything else to try? I've used Vallejo (yuk - pulled off in great sheets) and Halfords rattlecan primer for plastic, which is tough as old boots but doesn't level very nicely at all. Thanks BL.
  7. A question for the cognoscenti here. I've just started building the Martlet version of this kit. There's quite an area between the top of the instrument panel and the windshield (scuttle?). How should this be painted? Could be exterior colour (EDSG in my case), could be interior green, could be boring black (which would make sense for low reflectivity)? Googling suggests models get built roughly 50/50 interior green (which looks a bit weird) or exterior colour (which looks 'right', but that's not necessarily 'correct'). Not found any good shots of the real thing (Wildcat or Martlet) but the impression I get is certainly closer to black than interior green. Thoughts...? Cheers, BL
  8. Thanks for all the kind comments. Wonky wheels (both of 'em) will be an awkward fix as it actually seems to be the angle of the axle rather than anything else (they're symmetrically on the piddle).I've already had to replace one of the axles after I broke it, and I suspect trying to dismantle things at this stage will just end up in woe. In reality, its not that obvious unless you get down to a scale eyeline level and look from either end. Weaponry wise, I did ask the question here. There's plenty of pics of "my" aircraft carrying Sidewinder launch rails, so having lashed out on the rails (and the missiles that came in the box) I kinda figured there wasn't much point in the effort of fitting the bits needed to launch the missiles, if they never actually carried them. (although with hindsight I should have looked up the appropriate markings for dummy ones). Bit of artistic licence, eh..? Very much hoping the next one is rather faster. Going back to my more usual WWII single engine efforts in 1/72, so should be a damn sight quicker! Cheers, BL
  9. Thanks all for the positive comments - much appreciated! They have all had one - Windsor & Newton Galleria Matt. IME it comes out more satin than matt, but not as shiny as the pics make out. I've been trying Vallejo matt on my Tomcat, and that comes out proper matt, so if I can figure a way to mask the canopies neatly, I might try slapping a coat of it on and see where we get to. Desperately want to avoid any nasty reactions that ruin what's already done though! Cheers, BL
  10. This was the last kit I bought in my first modelling career. A combination of sex, drugs and work (which just happened to be rock'n'roll at the time) left little time or enthusiasm for playing with bits of plastic. I rediscoverd the part assembled kit in my parents loft last summer, and it's taken me a solid 18months to get it together. I reckon that makes for a 23 year build... The slightly strange (compared to Airfix) Hasegawa plastic hadn't been glued together desperately well and I was able to reduce it to component parts with not too much difficult. A certain amount of alchemy removed all the paint and we were good for take 2. I decided to add an Aires cockpit and jet pipes, Wheeliant wheels (the original vinyl tyres had perished) and the missiles courtesy of Brassin. All in all, it's been a massive learning curve. The plastic/resin bashing itself wasn't too bad, but the assorted painting has taken much girding of loins, finding (then losing) of mojo, thought, prevarication, more prevarication, deciding I'll look at it tomorrow etc. It fought me the entire way, and to be honest I'm quite glad to be done! It's the first model I've used "big" resin extras (ie not plug'n'play exhaust stacks or wheels) It's the first model that preshading has worked for me on. (thin the paint. Lots.) It's the first model I've tried using "modern " metallic paints (Vallejo in this case) It's the first model I've used Flory washes on (thanks @The Spadgent for making it look easy enough to try). Hell, the first model I've tried weathering fullstop! (these birds were end of life by now and looked it) It's the first model I've tried a "dot wash" on (looked far too new and shiny and toylike otherwise) - again inspired by @The Spadgent on his exemplary PA474 build. There's flaws all over the place. Some horribly obvious (main wheels are wonky), some less so. I'm not sold on the topside colour - too blue, but by the time I'd figured that out it was on the model. ho hum. On the whole though, I'm pretty chuffed with how it's come out. The photos make it look rather better than it actually is I think. But anyway... Pics are a mix of DSLR for the longer distance stuff and iphone for closeup. Cheers! BL
  11. Finished this one 18 months or so back (you can tell by the bright sunshine in the pics!) but never got round to posting them. Mostly OOB with the exception of an Eduard Zoom cockpit kit for the IP and seatbelts, plus masks for the transparencies. This is the 6th kit I've built in my return to modelling, and on the whole a consolidation effort rather than trying anything new. 2nd one painted with the airbrush, and I was quite chuffed to get the zebra stripes on the dive brakes masked & sprayed in decent order. Oh, and the no-slip areas on the wings are painted too. Most of the preshading got lost though... The varnish looks very shiny in the pics. Not so obvious in real life. ...and with some period friends... Cheers, BL
  12. Thanks Tony. I'll proceed on the basis of less is more. I'll admit the weathering is worrying me a little as I've never done anything like that before. This is a kit I started (badly!) 20 odd years ago, and its taken me a year to resurrect to this stage and I don't want to bollix it all up at the final hurdle, but equally the dilapidation is such a feature of the real thing...! BL
  13. I've finally reached the decaling stage with my build of a 1/48 Hasegawa F-14D. I'm going for a VF101 Aircraft - no 165 BUNO 164345 and using the Fightertown decal set (which are lovely to use btw!) According to the (slightly limited) info given, this particular plane has very few stencils on the upper and lower surfaces - typically the "no step" text etc. However there's a good few inconsistencies -v- the pics I can find online of this airframe - according to the instructions, there's no "A D" lettering on the inside of the rudders (blatantly visible on the pics), and there are walkways on the air intakes shown, which don't exist on the (rather tired) real thing - although you can see where they were. I can't find high enough resolution images to make a call about the stencils, as its all grey on grey, but there's another decal sheet (from DMXdecal) for the same airframe which says to use the full works. Personally I'm not sure why, even on an end-of-life plane (as these I believe were) you wouldn't have safety critical markings? Thoughts? Happy to not apply half a hundred tiny decals, but I'd rather do it right than easy... Thanks, BL
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