Jump to content

larchiefeng

Members
  • Posts

    1,443
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by larchiefeng

  1. You’re welcome. Just a suggestion here for you guys. Get a variety of different sizes of plastic tubing, rods, flat sheets of styrene in different thicknesses, brass, aluminum tubing and rods, solder, wiring etc, you get the idea. When building a Pocher kit you’re going to want to add details and most likely correct a mistake or two. So, having a variety of supplies at hand will keep you working and perhaps help you formulate a solution to a problem a lot quicker than if you have to go to a store or place an order online. This, probably is the best piece of advice that, I can give you right now. An assortment of nuts, bolts in couple sizes can also be helpful. The main size of nut and bolts that all Pochers use is 2mm. This is the diameter of the threaded bolt shaft and ID of the nut. The bolt head and nut size is 3mm and having, at minimum, a pair of this size nut drivers is very helpful when trying to tighten the bolt and holding the corresponding nut. A set of small screwdrivers with flat head and Phillips heads are necessary and a digital micrometer is almost a must have tool, as well. There’s a lot of other small tools that are also very helpful and I could probably take a few pictures of all the tools that I have which would probably only go to illustrate that, I might be a little crazy but, I have used all of them frequently. It’s up to you to determine what you need and how much money you want to spend. I’m not suggesting that you have to run out and buy everything before you get started but, I imagine that, at some point you might acquire some if not most of them. I’m admittedly a bit of a tool nut so, take it for what it’s worth. Right now, you guys are starting to detail the engine and firewall and then the chassis so some scratch building supplies are a good starting point to pick up if, you haven’t already done so. Ok, I’ll get off my soapbox for now and forgive me if you already knew all this. I didn’t know any of this when I started mine because, I thought that, everything I would need was in the kit like, every other model that I had ever built in my life, wrong! As Codger has probably already mentioned these models are 40 years old and even though they have a high parts count they are not as sophisticated as a good new Tamiya kit.
  2. Good to see you back on this build Pascal! It’s starting to feel like we’re getting the band back together here on the forum!! It’s funny that, after being off a build for a while; all of a sudden a solution presents itself!
  3. Don’t forget the the bunny slippers! Ah! The eccentricities of us Pocher builders, lol
  4. I’m really looking forward to the restoration of this thread for all to enjoy again
  5. Brian, I just posted to your thread, I hope it helps. And, as long as I'm here I might as well post a quick update. I'm still waiting on the pipe bends from Plastruct for the turbo pipe exhaust but, I intend on getting back to the waste gate tomorrow. I've been dealing with real world wife car issues the last three days straight so, not much time to work on this one. The key word there is "wife" so, I hope that conveys the urgency to all. And, it's still not fixed despite now being in and out of the repair shop 3 days in a row.
  6. OK, here's what I did in Postimage. I logged into my account and selected a picture then, I selected/clicked on the share button. A menu comes up with 8 choices, you want "direct link". You then click on the direct link clipboard on the right side of the line and it copies the link. You should have both the Postimage website open on one page tab in your internet browser and your thread open on another page tab. Click on the insert image from URL box like at the bottom here in the forum and then right click and paste it. The link will show up in the box and then click on post to thread. BTW this is the painted body of my WIP Monza. I just picked a picture at random to remember how it worked directly from the hosting site. Now, mind you, I had already resized the picture down to the 480 x 640 thumbnail size before doing this and I'm assuming that you know how to do it and that you should be doing it as a matter of practice when posting any pictures to the forum to keep the size to a minimum for the forum admin. I hope that helps and it's not too confusing.
  7. I just saw your posts this morning and I will have to go back and look at my notes from when I used to post the pictures directly from Postimage to the thread. Currently, I only use Postimage to resize my pictures to the thumbnail size required by britmodeller. I have a blog setup for linking my pictures from and then to the thread. This insures that if something happens to the picture hosting site or, as in what happened a couple years ago with photo bucket happens again, none of my pictures would disappear from the thread. This is what happened to Codgers RR thread. I’m off today so, I’ll look at it and see if I can get you some information. Also, know that there’s a number of hosting sites and more than one way to do it; this will just be my way. As far as pc vs iPad I don’t see why you can’t use it. You are not actually posting any pictures from your iPad or computer to the thread. This is why you have to use a hosting website or a blog which, becomes a defacto host. Britmodeller does not allow pictures to be directly posted from anyone’s personal device due to the risk of malware getting into the forum and taking down everything. So that’s why when you post you copy the URL link to your picture and then post it. Your picture really shows up as a link to it from the website hosting it thus protecting the forum from malware. Sorry for the long winded explanation. Anyway, I’ll look into the easiest way for you to attach your pictures and let you know.
  8. OK, guys. I found the website for the miniature SMD LED's. Here is the link to the website https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/collections/hobby-leds . It will probably come up as Evan Designs , Hobby LED's for model trains. They come in colors, color renditions from warm white to cool white and various sizes all the way down to pico size. For instance, I used the pico size in the front fender marker lights and tail lights on the Mercedes. The pico size is 0.8mm x 1mm in size with a total height of 0.7mm. I think the wire gauge is 30 gauge which is very thin. Anyway, check out the website, I'm sure that you will find everything that you need to light up your Rolls.
  9. If you are trying to attach pictures from your computer pictures folder the forum will not accept it because it doesn’t know if anyone’s pc is compromised. All pictures have to be resized first, to a smaller thumbnail size like on Postimage and then the link copied from there and pasted into the url box in your post. I kinda forgot about that LED supplier but, I will find it today and post it.
  10. I’ll try and find the company that I bought the lights from but, it should probably all be mentioned in my Mercedes thread. I started doing the light towards the end of the thread. I know that it’s a model trains accessories supplier I just can’t think of the name right now. I actually saw the receipt on Sunday when I was looking for the Plastistruct invoice to order the missing bend pieces. I’m just holding off working on the Ferrari until Friday at the moment. On the SMD LED’s I don’t know if Dave Cox has used them or not, possibly but we never had a conversation about that. I found some very small ones when I was looking at fiber optic to try and get light through the curved tail light stalks, try drilling a 1mm hole through a curve in a piece that was not meant to have a wire run through it. Anyway, the only way I was get lighted tail lights was using a pico SMD LED with 32 gauge wire. This is what I meant about going small when space is at a premium. I’ll try and get you the contact info later.
  11. Patience grasshopper! One quick tip on the headlight lenses from MMC. The pattern is printed on the surface of the plastic and will come off if handled too much with your bare hands. I'm assuming that, the process is the same as they used on the Mercedes and I found that out the hard way. Fortunately Marvin replaced the one I rubbed off the pattern on. I used SMD LED's in place of the bulbs supplied and thinner gauge wire than MMC gives you. However you are quite a ways off from that yet. On a side note, Dave Cox gave me the miniature toggle switch that turns my lights on. I mounted it inside the transmission and the gear shift lever turns the lights on/off when shifted. When you add lighting space becomes a premium and the smaller the wire the easier it is to run. This is one of those things that, you want to plan ahead for.
  12. OK, I resized the pictures but, not all of them are of waste gates so, I'm just going to post those and one other that looks like some type of Cat in the pipe. Is this a Cat in the pipe? This just appears to be a stock waste gate hiding behind prop rod for the rear bonnet in the center on top of the heat shield on this Liberty Walk F-40 This appears to be an oversized polished aluminum waste perched on top of the center pipe This setup is one that, I've never seen before with dual waste gates. I'm wondering if there are a couple more turbos hiding under there somewhere in front of the two you can see? The plumbing is curious as well, any ideas on this? I really like the center waste gate V pipe with the large two into one exhaust collector tip. It's any pictures from the other end looking to the back that would be interesting to see, especially on this engine!
  13. Sorry, that sucks! And, I know that is really slowing you down on the recreation of your Roller build. Since I have the pictures, I’ll resize them and post them tonight. As a side note, I’m able to use PI to resize my pictures and then copy them back to my PC and then send them to my blog and link them from there back to my thread. So, some of it is functional for me and, since I’m not held hostage by these photo web hosting websites I won’t lose my picture content on my threads. It might be something that you look into doing this week if the problem persists. Thanks!
  14. Thanks Pascal, yep that, was exactly the shape that I was trying to make but the pipe diameter and sharpness of the curve was really difficult to achieve. So, rather than keep dragging this out any longer than I already had, I decided that I had gotten about as close as I could. Just for reference, the diameter of the pipes is 1/4” or 6.35 mm. For comparison the original kit pipes are 6mm so going up to the 1/4” wasn’t a big deal. However, I think that it’s a big improvement in the looks by being slightly larger. The LM did have larger turbos and pipes and the larger pipes give the illusion of bigger turbos. I did start working on the waste gate pipes and flanges yesterday afternoon. Chas and I were having an email conversation about them last night after, I sent him a couple of pictures of what I was doing. Then, he sent me a few different pictures of various waste gate setups on LM F40’s. I was looking at them and there’s a lot of difference between them. Chas said that, Pascal might have some more pictures and be able to give us some more insight on them. So, with that said, if Chas could post the pictures for discussion; if can’t, I will later after I get home from work. And, if you, Pascal, have any good reference pictures for the waste gates that, would be great. I just can’t find any good pictures of the pipes coming out of the headers towards the rear from that angle. Anyway, any and all pictures of that area would be great for discussion. Since, this is what I’m working on right now, I thought that it would probably be good to have a little group discussion on the waste gate setup the next few days.
  15. Thanks Brian! I wouldn’t worry about bothering Codger with any question or advice that you might need, he has a wealth of knowledge and is more than happy to share. Being retired, I know that he likes to look at the forums, especially if it’s a Pocher build and “really especially if it’s a POCHER ROLLS-ROYCE!!” He has so much experience with this particular model he would love to help someone else build another high quality Roller! It almost makes me wish that I had one to build but, I still have a while to go with the F40. I have a started Pocher Alfa Monza and behind that is a crazy idea to modify another Pocher Mercedes K82 cabriolet roadster into the Mercedes Special Roadster using David Cox’s book for reference. This is my all time favorite Mercedes and I just hope that I live long enough to take it on.
  16. I understand and it probably takes more patience and concentration to do that than build a model. It’s probably going to serve you well with the Pocher though. The other thing to keep in mind when reading the Mercedes thread is that, this is the time when Chas had already started building his Rolls and I had just started the Mercedes shortly after. So, we were pretty much building these two Pochers at the same time for over a 2-3 year period. We were exchanging tips and information on a variety of things throughout the builds. Even though they were totally different cars the experience was the same and it was fun to share it!
  17. Thanks guys! Chas, I appreciate your input before some of this gets here . Brian, the key to working on these Pochers is patience! As you start your Rolls keep in mind that there will be lots of challenges and sometimes you will have to take a step back and think through a problem or to just organize your thoughts and come up with a new plan. If these Pochers were easy they would be called Tamiya. Here's a link to my Mercedes build that I mentioned on your thread, it has my whole struggle, err, progress on doing the lighting on a car that lighting wasn't part of the kit.
  18. OK, part 3 of the weekend posting marathon! Like I was telling Chas this morning, "it's been kinda feast or famine" posting lately. Since, this is where I left off last night, I just resized the pictures this morning and decided to post this morning. I will probably do more work throughout the day and I need some more supplies which, I will point out toward the end of the post. Having said that, here's where I left off. We were at the point where the pipes just got painted black in preparation for the Alclad air frame aluminum. After looking at the paint, I wound up sanding it down and re-shooting the black I added the original rear kit pipes again, Ok but, not right So, here, I painted the aluminum followed by exhaust manifold at the exit of the turbos. Then hot metal sepia and hot blue, ugh! Big mistake on the blue! Not only did it look awful the paint sputtered on me coming out of the airbrush. Time for a redo! Still clinging to those rear pipes! Since the front parts of the pipes were good, I just masked it off and went after the blue Ok, now we're getting somewhere Can't let go of those rear pipes Time to put the engine in the frame and see how things look and fit Ok, not feeling the rear pipes any more Time for a divorce! I just couldn't the original rear pipes to make the bends and without enough material, I couldn't finish them out the back Here's where the need for more materials and having to place an order comes in play. Notice the painted pipe on the left side in the bend? I somehow lost the other bend like on the right pipe and I had to use this piece. I looked all over for the white one and can't find it. I have no idea where this piece came from and, I have the feeling I'm going to find out down the road and be upset that I cut it for this. Oh, we can always make a new one, right? I wanted to put this picture here, next to where I'm at, with the pipes just for reference. Notice how much larger the pipes are coming through the rear body panel are on the real car? I can see another connection there with larger exhaust tips exiting through the body. I think that I have the pipe shape and bends fairly close; I know that, they're not perfect but, I'm happier with these than the earlier versions. I still have to get the flanges on the rear sections and add the waste gate pipe too. That's what I'll be working on today and the rest of the week. I forgot to say at the beginning of this post- thank you to all of you guys for the support!
  19. Before I start showing you guys my new direction on the pipes, I thought I would show you something that, I picked up before Christmas. The transkit that I got was not one of the original run of Autograph transkits and and it had the turned aluminum outer wheels with the cast stock Ferrari inner wheels. In any other circumstance I would probably have been very happy to have real metal wheels to go with the MMC real rubber tires that, I picked up over a year ago. But, I've always wanted the OZ wheels mainly because they were more of a racing version type wheel. I've been on the look out for a set of OZ wheels for years and recently I stumbled across some sets of aluminum OZ wheels and some resin OZ wheels. Looking at the aluminum ones they didn't look quite right. It said that they were from a transkit but, I had some doubts. There was just something about the way spokes finished into the outer wheel that didn't look right that, and the price was around $500 for the set. At the same time I found the resin wheels and the ones I bought had two types of rear wheels. One type was just a normal depth of wheel and the other set of rear wheels had deeper set inners. I bought that set and got two types of rear wheels along with the front rims. I've only gotten around to getting a coat of primer on them and I decided to just set them under the body parts to see what they would look like. This is the deeper rear wheel; I hope they will fit under the body when all the suspension gets installed Back to the pipes. Like I mentioned yesterday I tried a variety of methods to bend the plastic to get the "S" bend in the pipes. Here, I went back to the hot water method that, I used on the Mercedes to repair the warp in the hood panels. I took this picture before it got up to the 197 degrees that I used to heat up the plastic before bending it. Even heating it up that much, when I started bending it, it got only so far and I could see the plastic starting to stress fracture. I did break one of the smaller pipes off of one of the pipes and at that point I realized that I was not going to be able to bend them enough to get what I was after so, I stopped. I had been going down this road for a few months trying to get a satisfactory LM exhaust system after I had made the decision to eliminate the muffler and go with more or less straight pipes. Actually, I was going for straight pipes and I had that accomplished until Pascal showed the picture of what a real LM exhaust system looked like. That image really stuck in my head and I knew that, unless I could get something closer to it, I wouldn't be satisfied. Such a stupid little thing like that, just sent me down another rabbit hole. Probably no one else would notice or care but, it bugs me and if I didn't at least try it would forever bug me. If I tried and failed that's one thing but, to just let it go wasn't going to happen. So, here we are, welcome to the rabbit hole! As you can see I am going with the white tubing that has all the various 90's and 45's as well as straight tubes. Even with all that, it still took a lot of surgery to get what I wanted I still had to use the smaller rod from the original pipes to go through both turbo section. This was the first piece that broke off when trying to make the bends. Both pipes getting fabricated Test fit with the old and new pipes. The new ones are fractionally larger and they look better; remember what I said yesterday about the size in the picture of the real ones? Closer Obviously some work yet to be done but, the it's a work in progress. The right side pipe is too short coming out of the turbo here Looking at still trying to use a section of the original pipes with the flanges. Also, I added a piece to make the right side longer out of the turbo on this pipe Got the right pipe going more in the right direction towards the rear. Even though I don't have the pronounced "S" right out of the turbos I am able to get the pipes more to the center and then bring them back around the brass rod bracket. Because I was cutting so many sections and they had different orientations, I started marking them to try and keep everything going in the right direction Things are starting to come together and the pipes aren't so straight anymore. Lots of cut sections and plastic and copper rod inside. Here, I'm still thinking that I can use the rear section from the original pipes Just trying to hold the parts in place to see how it looks Time to start sanding and filling the gaps Here's a tool that, I haven't used in a few years but, it was perfect for this job, the handy Flexifile Turned out that the green putty was too dried out to work well Had to go to the heavy artillery- Bondo! To look at them now you wouldn't know there were so many pieces just to make this little pipe! Still have some gaps to fill but, that's what primer is for, to see what still needs work. Still clinging to hope that I will be able to use these sections? Almost done with the sanding and filling Added some weld seams Painted black prior to shooting the air frame aluminum substitute for polished stainless steel I just can't seem to let go of those rear sections of pipe We'll see what happens tomorrow, actually this was a couple days ago and I know what happens and, you will too tomorrow after I get some more pictures resized and upload to my blog hosting site. I don't trust any of these free picture hosting sites so, all I do is resize my pictures there and load them all to my blog site and link from there to here. Anyway, more tomorrow. I actually have been working on this, I just wanted to get to a point where I had something to show you guys. Once we get past these pipes we can go back and finish up the turbo lines with the eye bolts and other things that, I was working before I tripped and fell down the rabbit hole.
  20. Actually, you were pretty smart to buy the upgrades now because you can plan ahead to install them during the build. I bought a lot as I went on and wound up having to redo a lot of things to incorporate the MMC upgrades after the fact.
  21. Well it looks like you guys are off to a rousing start here and Brian you couldn’t find a more knowledgeable person on the forum for building your Rolls. I “met” Mr. C somewhere around the beginning of this build and it’s good to see it coming back. I also met and became friends with Paul Koo around then too. Paul’s DVD’s are important when first building various sections of the car. Pay close attention to all of his recommendations on modifying parts and pieces especially with regard to fitting the body. There’s a lot of things that need to be done before you go too far. As you have already experienced with having to take something apart that you have already put together; there’s a lot of that unfortunately. The other thing about Paul is that he only builds strictly from the box other than the MMC stuff. He also has done almost all of the MMC instructions for them. For everything else, Mr.C is your guy. I see that you are talking about lighting up “everything”. I have a little bit of experience there; I added SMD LEDs to my Mercedes including the dash gauges.
  22. Sorry for the long interval between posts again but, you could say that Christmas was a rinse and repeat of Thanksgiving around here. Pretty much everything that happened then also happened the day after Christmas except it was only 24" of snow. Anyway, after my last post, I did continue down the road of trying to correct the Pocher kit turbo pipes that, I was trying to modify. I was lamenting the lack of one more muffler to give me enough of the same size pipe to make them the way I wanted them. I also mentioned that I was going to start looking into the use of other types of materials that were the same diameter as what I was working with. I started with the white pipes shown earlier but, they were a little larger in diameter than the Pocher pipes. I tried to turn down some aluminum rod and looked at brass tubing and even the plastic engine intake pipes etc. etc. Here are some pictures of the various materials. I turned down the white plastic tubing to the diameter of the Pocher pipes but, I could only get so far. I would also need the various pieces with 90 degree and 45 degree bends for this to work and I was only working on the straight pieces here. So, here are some pictures of me trying to get those pipes to look more like the picture that Pascal sent of how those pipes look in real life off of the turbos. Changing the length that the pipes come out of the turbo to go more to the middle of the transaxle with the intention of putting another bend back in Got the right side more to the center. The reference point for the mid point on these pipes are the two brass rod bracket on the transaxle. So far so good and here's a little mock up going to the rear Looks good but, still no "S" bend between the turbos and brass rod bracket Working on the rearward pipes and making lots of cuts to try and get the right shape. Also back to other materials. Looks good but, too straight Trying it to see how it looks with the waste gate pipe. Working on the mid pipe section Once again, it looks good but, just too straight This is what I'm talking about in case you forgot. Notice the pretty dramatic S bend out of the turbos. The other thing that, is very noticeable is the larger size of the pipes So, after trying to obtain and make more pipe the same size as what I've been working with here and failing, I have decided to try a different tack. I am going a different route and I have realized that, I won't be able to make as sharp of an S bend as I want. Every attempt has only resulted in broken plastic or kinked tubing and frankly this has gone on far too long! So, with that in mind my next post will show what I have settled on as an acceptable solution. It's definitely not perfect but, I think that it looks better than the straight pipes. The next post will be representing approximately two weeks worth of work and tonight I'll be painting them so I can post more of a finished product (the pipes).
  23. As usual, I got a little sidetracked, only this time it was a pretty big snow storm. We got 4 feet of snow starting the night before Thanksgiving for 48 hours straight. That, put a real crimp in my style and it really wore me out. The weather has been pretty dark, wet and gloomy every weekend since so, not conducive to doing too much. Anyway, I have been working on and off on the pipes from the turbos and exhaust. Since I made the decision to eliminate the muffler and go with the straight LM exhaust it's been a bit of a challenge to get them right. So, what follows is a lot of cutting and reassembly to try and get something that resembles the picture that Pascal supplied above. First things first. I had to cut the turbo pipes to get the pipes to go straight back as opposed to angling outward towards each side of the muffler. So, the first thing was a cut to get the new angle. Things are going in the right direction Added a weld seam to cover the cuts in the pipes Both sides looking generally correct. Playing around with some tubing pieces to see if I can get the shape of the pipe bends but, the tubing is too big The turbo pipes are too far to the right Painted the pipes with the weld seams I was pretty happy with the way the seams look Here is where things started getting weird. Notice the direction the pipes are going. Time for more surgery to try and correct the angle Sorta OK but, not quite right, especially the right one Really not happy with this and this was done before the storm so, I had time to sit on it and think about it I dug out the rear frame and body panel so that, I could put the engine in there and see how it all looked in relationship to the exhaust opening in the rear panel Kinda going in the right direction I thought that I could make these pipes work so, I started filling the seams The left one is iffy but, the right one is too far to the right but, like I said this was all before the storm and Pascal's pictures and I was going to probably settle It didn't look tooo bad but.... I could almost settle for it, almost but... It even started to look OK from a distance , LOL Needless to say, after thinking about this and looking at the crooked misaligned pipes for a few weeks, I knew that, I had to fix this. My next post will be the fix and a lot more surgery on the turbo muffler pipes. Good thing that I had two mufflers and two sets of pipes to make most of the exhaust system. I really could have used one more muffler to make it all out of the same size plastic but, the part from the back of the transaxle out the rear will have to be made from aluminum rod and brass tubing.
  24. The first picture shows what I suspected about the brackets attached to the pipes that attach to the rear muffler bracket. The pipes out of the turbos are going to be problematic for me now. I’m going to have to remake them because I came out of the turbos and went straight back instead of making the big bend to the center and back outside and straight back like the bottom picture. Good thing that I have an extra set of pipes. At least I know how they are supposed to be routed, thanks Pascal. You really are a fountain of F40 knowledge!
×
×
  • Create New...