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celticwardog

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Everything posted by celticwardog

  1. Hi mate and thanks, it was a mixed colour. Mainly Humbrol enamel 118, I think with added 62 leather and probably a touch of black to darken it. Stippled/drybrushed in the same but lighter then given a black wash too but most of it then removed.
  2. Excellent. They would utterly look like toys were it not for the weathering/chipping but this totally tlifts them to another level of droid-awesomeness!
  3. One SMD LED is superglued on the inside of the hole pointing towards the back of the ship, so its brighter at the other end and gets dimmer the closer it gets to the back. But just one rather than a series of say three how one might normally light an engine like that.
  4. They are lit, just not that obvious from the photo
  5. The bits that are now red were just moulded rounded things. I cut them off slowlly until it was flat, this automaticllay made the same shped hole That I tidied up. Then stuck on clear red plastic. Alas it isnt tubular as it was and now flat but better than no lit engines at all.
  6. Hi and thanks. Yes all drilled and fibre opticed. Doesnt take too long, cordless electric drill on slow speed (or it tends to melt, stick to the bit and make the hole too big!)
  7. Bog standard 1/350 Bird of Prey - re-released numerous times (not the Round 2 version) just made in cruise mode, can also be done in attack mode (wings down). Easier to light as the indications where the windows are moulded in just needs to be cut out. Few fibre optics added too. Thanks again.
  8. Thanks mate. Not easily is the answer, kit has no clear parts or indications where windows should be. I tacked the 2 main body parts togther and stuck on the window decals. Let them dry then cut the windows out using those as a template, then picked off the decal and filled it with clear resin (with tape on the otherside to hold it. The engines were cut off then cut out and replaced with clear red plastic. Then holes drilled in the engines and SMD leds stuck behind the holes and filled with clear red. There are others you cant really see in the pics to create a red glow. There artent really enough windows but they are placed on the sudio model where they would bleed too much in areas of the kit.
  9. Hi all. Havn't posted for a while but have a few all finished at once.
  10. Thats nice, but as you mentioned the eyes are wrong. They are not totally black but the whole of the coloured area is black in the films, rather like a Betazoid from Star Trek. I have just got a Thailand recast of the female Cenobite from Thailand, suprisingly good quality though the robe bit seemed a bit lumpy and needed sanding.
  11. Nice mate - especially considering you haven't done one in so long, it would be nice even if that were not the case.
  12. Ta for the link, his Sandcrawler is lovely. I notice you attend shows with you nice lighting kits - is there a list of shows anywhere - preferably sci-fi only but anything would be nice?
  13. That's actually less than I thought it would be. If I were doing it would probably go for the Anigrand, I just wouldn't have anywhere to put this one as amazing as it is.
  14. Have been comparing this to studio shots and actually fibre optics would not have worked anyway, they would be too small for most of the windows. It would be an excercise in resin removal and f^&k knows how many internal smd's (for instance the bridge windows are clearly visible as a series of squares)
  15. That is nice. Unusual to see techniques from the White Dwarf camp applied to something like that and it really works.
  16. Holy Moley! It's only seeing on the bed (double?) you how big it is! Can I ask how much was it?
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