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  1. Thanks Crayons, certainly a great look diorama & well above my current skill set, the enviro tec resin doesn’t seem to be available in the U.K. but I’m sure someone here must know of a uk equivalent.
  2. Hi Folks Just starting a build on Tamiya’s Pibber boat & given that I like a challenge & trying new things was wondering about doing a small diorama of a dirty brown river with just a slight movement to it, as if the boat was just idling slowly. Would it be sensible to try this with a clear resin poured in shallow layer that are tinted with either pigment or acrylic paint, never tried this before though I’m aware that the curing process generates heat, would this be too much for the plastic hull? The base would be construction foam with a cut out for the hull & sealed with foam armour (just repackaged pva glue I think), or I’m I as well to just paint the foam a brown/green colour and use some clear acrylic paste to sculpt the water around the hull. If the resin sounds like a sensible option could anyone recommend a tried & tested brand? Loads of questions I know but any guiding voices would be greatly appreciated. cheers euan
  3. Well I gave into that little voice inside my head & just placed an order with Paul for the Sparmax gp35 & the larger cup for my Silverline. Frankly after all the research that I did on the trigger brushes I just fancied trying one for general painting. Still going to dedicate the Silverline to priming & clear coats though. Thanks for all the help. Regards E
  4. Well this is going to give you all a laugh, had forgotten that I have an old H&S Silverline 2 in 1 (pretty sure I actually bought it from your store Paul) & put the 0.4 needle & nozzle set on and had a go at priming up a sheet of plastic card, & to be honest with my meager skill set I can’t see a mini gun style brush improving my game over it that much. The only issue I can see is the smaller cup size, but it’s no biggie to top up, so for just now I’m going to work with that though not sure we can fully rule out a new year purchase.... I’m a long time lurker on here & not much of a poster as my befuddled old brain still hasn’t quite adapted to typing up random nonsense, always feel I’m just trouble busy people, but I really do appreciate your opinions & help. regards E
  5. Just wanted to check one more thing.... As I would like to make this a dedicated priming & clear coating brush for all my needs, would the GP-825 be overkill on 1/35 armour & 1/48 WW2 planes? oh and the good news is I’ve actually been given permission to buy by she who must be obeyed (& agreed with) at all times
  6. Thank you both for the advice, I’ll check out the brushes you’ve mentioned Paul & it’s great you’ve confirmed that my compressor is ok with them. Order will be winging its way to you after payday & before my wife sees me ordering anything for my shameful hobby before Christmas
  7. Hi Folks Apologies as there is a similar thread to this, but I wanted to narrow down the details a bit. I’m looking at building some larger scale boats (couple of the italeri 1/35 monsters & maybe a 1/350 or two) & I watched a great video about the issues of smaller brushes to cover properly without the rough overspray, this naturally lead to the use of the fan type brushes. Now this is uncharted territory for me & I don’t want to make any expensive mistakes. So I’m hoping to pick your collective brains. I use a sparmax tc-610h so I thinking the higher airflow required is ok, but what brush would be recommended to match this with? Rattle cans are an option I know, but just feel you waste so much Paint & have no control. thanks in advance for any help. regards E
  8. Thanks Anil, In the past I have used Halfords cellulose thinner, & found it just too hot to work with, though believe it or not I didn’t have a spray both extractor back then... it was my crazy mid thirty’s & life was simpler.... now in my slowed down mid forty’s & armed with an extractor I’d be tempted to give it a go again. thanks for the help e
  9. Will do, got a Tamiya JS-2 to finish off first, but I need to get a plane on the go at the weekend Regards euan
  10. Hi Mike Can highly recommend it, there’s a lot of travel on the trigger so you can get a good range of width on the one needle. Cleaning it is easy too, nice & wide at the bottom of the paint cup so great at getting into it to clean. The only thing I’ve found & it’s probably something I’m doing, is that the nozzle tends to bind its self into the head assembly ( not sure what the correct name is) though I just leave it to soak in cleaner for a bit & it seems to fall out, think it’s may be me over finger tightening it.... I do use a infinity & an old Iwata as well but more often than not the apex has become to go to brush simply for it’s constant easy of use.
  11. Thanks Tank , I’d actually forgotten I have a can of that stuff. I’m totally new to Mr Paint I’ve been doing armour for years using a mixture of Vallejo model air & tamiya, but have recently had a desire to try my hand at 1/48 aircraft (a scale I’ve never tried) & reckoned I’d try a whole new approach with painting. May seem a bit daft but just fancied a change & the Mr Paints seem to get great reviews. Fingers crossed. thanks for the help.
  12. Not the aqua ones, it’s the proper full fat lacquer ones.
  13. Hi Folks, Hoping I can probe your collective brains here, just got a few of the MRP paints to try & was told that 99% isopropyl alcohol was the best thing to clean out the airbrush with after spraying it. Now I’m a bit confused as to if you spray this at fully strength or mixing it down 50/50 with water & then use a cleaner? I do have a benchvent extractor & wear a face respirator, but atomising the full strength iso still worries me a little. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated . Cheers
  14. Hi Folks Just a quick question, when you add W&N Galeria Retarder to paints like xtracrylic or vallejo for spraying is it just a couple of drops or is there a ratio to be considered? Never used it before, but I've heard it recommended quite a bit. Cheers E
  15. Thanks for the great ideas, photo frames as a base is a great idea. I like the idea of "sculpting" a terrain & maybe having a bit of snow & ice going on in it, so I guess the oasis block & builders blue foam is a good way to go. Can I ask where is the best place to buy? My quick look suggests ebay? Thanks once again you folks are invaluable
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