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Andy341 last won the day on December 27 2016

Andy341 had the most liked content!

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170 Excellent

About Andy341

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 08/26/1966

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Preston, Lancashire
  • Interests
    Modelling RAF Post War types. Officer in RAF VR(T). If it has wings or rotors I'm interested.

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  1. Andy341

    Start Cartsi

    Seriously though, thanks for the advice. I am working in 1/48. I am using Coastal Kits base and revetments. They are worth having a look at.
  2. Andy341

    Start Cartsi

    My Peugeot 407 looks like that .
  3. Andy341

    Start Cartsi

    I am currently working on a diorama of a Phantom F4-C in SE Asia, I just need to know which start cart was used by USAF, if at all. Or did they use a cartridge starter? Any help would be appreciated.
  4. Sorry for not responding to thank you earlier, for what can only described as a fully comprehensive answer. This answers my question and helps immensely. I may be able to assist you with your question about the nose wheel door colour for your Mk1 from 43 Sqn. I purchased Fantasy Printshop Airfile Decals for my 41 Sqn Hunter, which also offers 31 other markings of various RAF variants. The instructions for a Mk1 Hunter from 43 Sqn state that it is indeed a red nose wheel door with white lettering. I hope that this helps.
  5. Hi, I am currently nearing completion of an Airfix Hunter F.5 and am using Fantasy Printshop decals, as I am finishing it in 41 Squadron markings. My dilemma is in relation to the underwing serial numbers and how they were laid out on the early marks? There appears to be two ways; linear i.e. WN966 or in the later block form. There are few references to examine and none of of WN966. Has anyone got any words of wisdom that may help? Many thanks Andy
  6. Andy341

    F16-C colours

    Thank you so much for the information. I usually build Cold War aircraft, but the appeal of the F16 was too great. You don’t build one then three come along at once!
  7. Andy341

    F16-C colours

    Hi, apart from photos of individual aircraft, is there a standard colour for the nose cone, hard points and stores, i.e. fuel tanks? This is a question I would ordinarily not ask, however there appears to be a range of greys. It doesn’t help when aftermarket decal providers insist on different colours for the same aircraft at a given time. If if anyone can advise on the best, or most common, FS number to use I would appreciate it. I am building three F16-Cs, all ANG aircraft: Ohio ANG with General Electric engine, Wisconsin ANG with GE engine and an Arkansas ANG mach
  8. Excuse the kitchen worktop. Nearly completed the Tamiya 1/48 F-14A, having used Eduard PE cockpit,Brassin jet exhaust and Furball Sundowners Anthology decals. Not happy with the gap between the nosewheels, I will work on that before completion. I’ve not posted for some time now, hope you like the work.
  9. Thank you all for the great replies. It gives me something to think on. Tez, love the photos. I am using the Eduard re-boxing of Hasegawa's F8-E in 1/48. I love the Sundowner tail art from the era of colourful paint work. My aim is to do an example of each aircraft VF111 has flown since the end of WW2. I do have some decals for a VF111 F8-H. Would it be easier to convert to a H variant than a C? Thanks again for your valued input. Andy
  10. Hi, I am looking forward here. I want to do a Mig killer from VF111, however this is an F-8C and I have the E variant with the Bullpup equipment in the dorsal hump. I am aware that this is a key difference, along with the profile of the nose. I am aware that Cobra and Cutting Edge did do a resin conversion kit, but are both out of production. Is it feasible to assume that the current conversion kits for RF variants would cure the hump and nose issue? Lastly, are there any other major exterior differences that I need to know? Your help will be a
  11. Andy341

    F8 Crusader

    Hi, Can anyone shed any light on the afterburner can. I am starting the Eduard F8-E and have the Brassin tailpipe and afterburner can. However, does the afterburner can extend beyond the airframe, or is it within the airframe? I have trimmed it but 1mm remains beyond the airframe. Is this right or wrong. Andy
  12. Andy341

    Hughes UH-1D

    Hi Whiskey, many thanks for clearing that up. k5054nz, what a gaff to make on my part, of course it was Bell and not Hughes. I will put this down to tiredness causing confusion with the Huey tag. Here's another conundrum, at the time of the battle at LZ X ray in the Ia Drang Valley, did the Hueys involved have the M60s on bungees or on the fixed mount? Robert Mason indicates in Chickenhawk that the mounts were fitted prior to the Ia Drang Valley, however other sources indicate that bungees were employed. Anyone any ideas? Regards, Andy
  13. Andy341

    Hughes UH-1D

    ZHi, as a departure from doing Royal Air Force stuff I am building the Kitty Hawk UH-1D. I am building this excellent kit as a B Company helicopter of the 229 AHB, one specifically flown by Robert Mason, author of Chickenhawk. The book covers his tour of duty as a Huey pilot during 1965 - highly recommend book if you are into the Vietnam War period. I need help with the three digit number on the nose. I know the number (879), but is it yellow or is it white? I am able to do either as I have purchased both the stencils and unit markings from Werner's Wings. I think I
  14. Metroman, thanks for your reply. I think I will abandon using the Aries parts and chance my arm using the kit parts. I will defer judgement on using Eduard's etched parts. Like you say there is little to see when completed. Andy
  15. Hi, I have delved into my stash of models and pulled out a Revell Tornado GR4 which I bought some time ago. I have the Aries resin wheel bays for this kit and they are certainly an improvement on the kit ones. However the issue I have is that I cannot seem to get them to fit. The instructions are basic and indicate that nothing needs removing. Has anyone else encountered this? Failing a solution for using the Aries resin I have the Eduard etched brass set for the kit but I would rather use the former. Kind regards Andy
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