Sebastien

Hi folks, My latest blooper: What can cause this shift (seen inside the part too)? Oh, and there's another shift just around the gridlike stuff on the sides of the part... TIA, S.

With bigger holes on the support, everything prints. BUT. Suction cup effect ruins the cowling front. So I added a 1 cm shift in one support and printed a pair. I'll go by pairs from now on. And one thing that went as smoothly as I could hope: So thanks to all who answered, put up with my stubborness, withstood my being foolish, and who were generally much nicer than I should have hoped for. You're great, guys! S.

Hi, I've switched to JamgHe Standard Plus Resin 10k. It's cheaper, and I haven't had a single mishap (well, I've had some, but they were my fault without exception).

Thanks a lot Adrian. I'd like to build it with removable wings, and store it in a crate (with belly supports). It should rest on its wheels only at model shows. Cheers, S.

I submitted the parts to the world famous Yefim Gordon's book test. That is, I put Gunze bottles under the wheel axles, and put Yefim Gordon's Fulcrum book on top of the parts (all 6 lbs of it). It holds.

I did a test print of the main landing gear. It's far from finished, but I wanted to know about it's strength. There are a couple of design blunders, but it's not that bad. Now, I have to glue the wheels and see what's what.

Hi Ian, I replaced the FEP filter with an nFEP one, cleaned everything and sent the single engine set to print: total success now. I fail to see where the extensions I made as supports (only for the engine cowling and the spinner parts) are a problem. There are ten 4mm diameter half circle holes thet go through them at the bottom, ten more at the top for the cowling, 6 top/bottom for the spinner. The only bit I have succion with is the front of the cowling, and it's rather visible on the surface of the part.

Hi, There are supports for the big parts. And there are half circular holes (2mm radius) all around them.

Sure. I haven't changed the settings since I calibrated the printer using the cones of calibration. The single set I have printed succesfully: The set I'm failing to print with the same resin as for the print above: I'm thinking the resin sticks too much to the FEP. S.

Well, even the plate with a single engine set doesn't print. I'll be sulking for a couple of days if you don't mind. S.

I clean the vat with the printer function, filter the resin when bottling it back, clean the FEP filter with alcohol, clean the plate with alcohol too, let everything dry... S.

I have done (mostly) that to get to the single engine set. The single engine set prints without a hitch (cf. first picture of my previous post). I'd love to understand why the second picture happened.

What I don't understand is: this worked beautifully Same resin, same settings: I'll go back to printing bit by bit if necessary, but I must say I'm quite unhappy.

Hi Hendie, I have done that, and I don't remember any loud noise, but that was for printing the 4 sets at the same time. Now, I'm trying to print 2. And problems appeared at the base plate and above it as well. @Bootneck told me it could be the resin temperature, and I tried warming the resin up: it worked almost flawlessly and removed all the problems but one. Thanks a lot, Mike! A set of rear prop blades is still missing. I'll figure it out. Thanks to all, S.

Hi Mike, I've checked the exposure with the cones of calibration, it seems to be OK. I'm trying heating up the resin (the heating mat seems to be in the meh minus range of efficiency. Thanks a lot, S.

So I've tried to print four engines simultaneously. Didn't work. So I tried to print two. Didn't work either. First try: Yay. Second try: What am I doing wrong? TIA, S.

I'm wondering if Tango is to blame:

I've tried printing a full set of Shackleton engines. I won't say it was a failure. I'd rather say it didn't work. On the print plate: In the resin vat: Yay.

Did he?

Hi, I use a 20 cm by 50 20W heated mat I put under the hood of my Mars 4 Ultra. I set the temperature on 27°C. Works fine. S.

Thanks Pete, Don't worry about the curly bits, they're just here to prevent the rear part of the radiator fairing from delaminating. They're supposed to be removed before assembly. The thingies I thickened are the tile-like bits In the exhaust covers, just above the radiator. S.

I'm now quite happy with my part. Thickening the exhaust thingies (very technical term, I know) worked nicely. I still have that succion cup effect, I'll see if some Mr Surfacer will hide it. Many thanks to those who helped and/or liked. And a very happy year of the Moribund Ardvaark to all.

Really?

Hi Hendie, As a matter of fact, I think I've solved the bulge issue by thickening the walls and having a continuous thickness variation along almost all the part length. I gave the walls a thickness decreasing from the opening diameter to the spinner base diameter. And I increased the light-off dealy to be sure. The bulge is gone: I still have a couple of issues (the exhaust covers spring to mind), but I think it's not too bad. Thanks to all, S.

Thanks Hendie. The whole thing is hollowed out, but maybe not enough. S.