vindicareassassin

He's only attached by one leg to the base and its made of resin so when you try to do anything to him he springs are around like zebedee from The Magic Roundabout 😉

What I have here is the Four horsemen of the Apocalypse, mastered by Michael Kontraros in 54mm. I've decided to do a WIP thread for these as it's going to take a while to do all 4 and build a display base for them. First to the bench is Pestilence....... ( I apologies for the half-bottomed phone camera pictures, I will make more effort next time I promise)...... While the horses pose is very dramatic I can assure you the 'Boing!" factor is annoyingly high 😒 Thanks for looking Sean

I've just re-looked more in depth at your final image of the NMM and skin.... The skin I'm nicking back off you, my next project is the 4 horsemen of the apocalypse and that dark purple will look good on either death or famine. The NMM, can I suggest you also use some glazes following the actual blade length rather than across it, in the direction it would have been sharpened, and also line in where the flat and blade meet in a mid-tone, there's no distinction there and it all blends in one. Damn it's harder to explain than do.... Paint bravely my friend 😉 Sean

If you want inspiration for pallid, undead flesh see if you can find my Necromancer bust, he's more in the colour tones you've chosen here. If I can critique your NMM, it doesn't read right, I'd put the main highlight in the bottom half of the blade, with a darker reflective light towards the end of the blade and another about a quarter of the length down from the top, the flat side I'd put the dark opposite the blade main highlight, and it's highlight at the bottom and top but don't make it as bright as the blade main highlight. All the best Sean

All done..... 1/10 Rat Catcher or The Piper Bust from Guild Ball, produced by Broken Toad, purchased from Mr Lee's Minis Thanks for looking Sean

H Hi Alan, thanks for the generous feedback. All base colours were sprayed on using Tamiya Acrylics, for the brush painting I use Scale75 Acrylics, both Scalecolor and Fantasy and Games, and W&N FW inks as colour intensifiers and some glazes in the main, there are some Artists Watercolour and Gouache used too but only on some of the blends Hope that helps Sean

Suggesting a ratio is difficult as I "eye" it to be right, I'd guess that a half cup on an Airbrush I'd give it 1 brush tip of buff for 35th and 2 for 72nd,but that would only be a rough start, there's a lot of variables involved, like how you like to prime and top coat etc

Its to dark for models mate, even the mixes are, because they are based on original colour paint, ideal for painting a 1/1 real thing or a base on post shading but that's it, you either have to add in some buff or pale grey to lighten it, the smaller you go the lighter it needs to be, just be sure not to go over board, scale effect is quite subtle but very noticable

Finished up this Anubis bust by RP Models T Thanks for looking Sean

Mix my own mate, using Mike Starmers Tamiya colour mix with a touch of pale grey added for scale effect

Next one done minus cargo, painted to represent an old truck still doing its thing in NWE 1944. Paint is Khaki Green 3 with a replacement wing and wheel in SCC2 Service Brown, not historically accurate but a BS33 RAF Blue interior and a faded SCC7 Canvas Back into the heavy scratch building again now, next up Signals Tender Type 415 on K6 chassis Thanks for looking Sean

US stations were equipped with Fordson WOT1 Fire Tenders, the only model of one that I know of is a Diecast one made by Oxford..... https://www.oxforddiecast.co.uk/products/ford-wot1-crash-tender-mickey-mouse-scampton-76wot001

Standard colour would be SCC2 Service Brown, RAF only started using SCC15 Green when stock of SCC2 had run out or if the vehicle was supplied new after may 1944, then and only then was SCC15 green used. Very early war vehicles, and interestingly all Fordson and Brown tractors plus bomb trolleys right through the war, were Khaki Green 3 with SCC1A Dark Brown stripped camo. The Nobles Slate Grey (SCC14) was not black at all, called slate grey for a reason 😉, it would have been blacker on canvas as that had more bitumen in it to get it to stick. All canvas was dyed SCC7 green, very close to Khaki Green 3 paint, but it faded quite quickly to the khaki green/brown we all know Inside the tanker pump box would have been gloss white or zinc chromate PS. Fire Tenders were NEVER red, there were some pre war red Crossleys but they were up north, also the Airfix K6 monitor kit..... only one K6 Monitor ever existed and that was made after the war from a crashed WOT1, the true carrier of the monitor equipment PPS. The RAF had stopped using BS33 Field Blue before the end of 1939, when the KG3 colour was fazed in. Hope that helps Sean

Always from photos mate, plans are to unreliable in their accuracy, I've been bitten way to many times with badly drawn plans from respected plan drawers when I've been making masters it's not even funny, now I no longer bother, also some on line details are not to be believed either, a typical case was this Crossley Q, all the research I did said the wheelbase was the same as a QL, upon scaling a couple of different photos it showed the wheelbase to in fact be a full 12" shorter, thats 4mm in this scale, quite a lot to be wrong by if I hadn't of checked.

Afternoon all..... Crossley Q 409 signals body is now done All the markings with the exception of the roundel are hand painted, just to keep my freehanding eye in 😉 And in its position as the dio grows. Thanks for looking Sean

Crossley Q, 3 ton, 409 Signals body, Receiver vehicle is now done, on to the Austin K6 VHF Transmitter and 50Kv Geny trucks..... Thanks for looking Sean

Thanks John, I'll look into them, for some reason I've mislaid all my crafting wire and had to strip this out of electrical cable, the wife does jewellry making and it never occurred to me to look for some in her kit

After many other squirrels distracting me the Crossley Q 3 tonner cab is finally finished, now on to its back transmitter body..... Thanks for looking Sean

Sadly a standard affair for Milicast, I've even had instructions from them that had some of their received mail from someone else on the back, nice to see recycling just gives an impression of amateurism, in this time of hi-tech I'd want to see something else, all my instructions for my kits were available on my blog and just before I gave up I was making moves to make them into PDFs to be able to down load and print. Still, they build up into some nice kits once done.

I never had a 'Range' as such, I produced highly detailed, often high part count, very limited run kits, 25 to 30 at the most depending on demand and mould burn-out, of totally random WW2 RAF MT based subjects that I had interest in and often had multiple variants. Someone already owns several of my kit masters, though I've never seen them in production apart from 2 and those I directly released myself...... I've only done the 'wargame' style chassis/cab masters initially for the ease of my use, are these what you are interested in?? If so probably best to PM me directly rather than do this on open forum.... All the Best Sean

After a conversation with Ted Angus, some of you will know that name I'm sure, I've forced some modifications/corrections upon the dio. I'm dropping one K6 and replacing it with a Crossley Q, in order to do this I'm modifying one of my QL chassis-cab moulds. I've used my AEC wheel hubs and grafted them into a set of my 20" tyres and fitted them to the chassis, I also cut the cab down in order to allow the new cab to be built around it. I also need to fix the body as they are a different type on both the Crossley and the K6 I now want to represent so I'm filling in the wheel arch cut outs ready to re-skin the sides. Also made a start on the Geny truck body as this is part of a group build on a farcebook page..... Thanks for looking Sean

That looks the beans, I'm not a big fan of 3D printing because I believe it to be removing the skill from model making, but then I'm an old skool scratch builder at heart and have to remember to most that in its self is like a black art that I've sold my soul to be able to do, so good on you for creating this..... The SCC15 looks to be close to how I'd have it in that scale if I wasn't modulating it, I'd maybe have gone a little lighter if the weathering will be heavy, and if I was pre-shade modulating at the primer coat then the process would naturally make it a lot lighter. Keep it up, it I like it Sean

It very much depends mate, All my cabs are mastered to take a proper hinged front glass, not like the Airfix kits that you have to "insert" it which makes it easier to install, it just means I have to paint the carrier frame on afterwards, which is no biggy..... So for the cabs and if the bodies will have stuff you can see inside then I use clear plastic card, I have used the clear plastic that bought stuff comes wrapped in before too but that can be a little thick. All glued in with Windsor and Newton gloss glaze medium, this dries to a high shine and is thick enough to fill in any gaps left by my incompetance. If it's a body where I'm not bothering with an interior, like these as the info just isn't available, I'll either just cut a hole glaze from behind and paint if black/dark grey on the inside, or, if the body trim is quite thick just trim up where the glass would be, paint the area in dark grey and then float in gloss glaze medium over the top to represent the glass. I tend to use the latter method only on small panes though as it's less likely to look artificial.

Boxes made for the Type 7 bodies, also worked out the composition, I think I'm sticking with this but not sure about the Commer van yet or replace it with a Tilly, we shall see..... Thanks for looking Sean

Never stop trying something new...... Cut a Games Workshop Thousand Son wizard in half and turned him into a mini bust AND tried a limited colour palette using an colour Gamut mask on a YCM colour wheel while trying to stay true to the fluff colour scheme hence the bright blue, slightly desaturated yellow gold and very desaturated magenta (purple) Thanks for looking Sean