Chimpion
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Posts posted by Chimpion
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Thanks for opening up this thread Mike. I couldn't understand why we couldn't have a thread just on this kit because I also have no inclination to wase through the aircraft-heavy thread. While searching is an option, it is more suited to finding a relevant thread than individual scattered comments within a thread. I now understand that the problem was the location of the thread rather than it's existence. I agree that the solution to a locked thread is not to simply start another one without understanding why the first was locked.
Anyway, I'm really pleased theee old kits are appearing. They fetch ludicrous prices second-hand if you can even find one, and they're just not worth it compared with modern kits. It's a pity some of the moulds no longer exist, but I'd love to get some of the ones that can still be repopped for a decent price. If nothing else, the warts in the kit quality will be a good match to the standard of my modelling ability! A £50 Tamiya kit deserves a great finish - a 50 year old £15 Airfix one can cope with a few brush marks!
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The turntable structure is almost complete - all parts are on but I need to clear coat the decals and maybe try to tone down the white on the dials a bit. The decals disintegrated a bit but they've gone on OK in the end.
I couldn't resist looking what it'll be like with the ladder on - it's still not painted or attached properly yet.
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Beautiful and eclectic. I particularly love the Impala and Cadillac, but they're all great.
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On 12/13/2020 at 7:16 PM, Denford said:On 12/13/2020 at 6:16 PM, PhoenixII said:
As far as German is concerned, they are 'moving away' from umlauts, Scharf S, (ß) and the like, presumably because of the difficulty of entering them on laptop keyboards. Our German Teacher's communications with us, via his Laptop, never uses (and indeed cannot use) such symbols and he should know!
Sorry to resurrect this, but it's just not true. As you rightly point out, an umlaut can be represented with the vowel followed by an 'e', but that's generally only used for foreign forms and databases - all German keyboards have all the special symbols immediately accessible. I can assure you that umlauts are alive and well. The scharfes S is also still in normal use (except in Swiss German), but there were changes to the spelling rules around 20 years ago which replaced many of them with 'ss'.
On 12/13/2020 at 7:16 PM, Denford said:It is (now) perfectly acceptable to use oe as an alternative to ö, indeed Goete has always been spelt this way (never Göte) whereas Göring was always spelt so. If he were now alive, he'd have to put up with Goering!
I assume you are referring to the poet Goethe. Spelling rules were different in his day so he's not the best example, but it is true that there are some names which include ö and some which include oe as different vowels. They are not the same, and not interchangeable, although ö may be written as oe. I find this difficult sometimes when I need to contact someone in my (German) company and find their name in the Outlook database - if it contains oe, ae or ue I can't be sure whether to replace it with an umlaut when referring to them in normal text. The safe option is not to, but it's not always the correct option.
Sorry for hijacking the thread, and please don't take it as a criticism of your otherwise correct comments (e.g. about Rächer vs. Racher) @Denford Since you seem to be interested in the nicities of German spelling I thought you might dind my comments helpful. No doubt a native German speaker will come along to correct my comments as well soon! I do however read, write and speak German daily in my job.
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If something else is more enjoyable in your free time, or simply more affordable, go for it. I have other hobbies too, but am fortunate to currently be in the situation that I'm limited by the available time and not by the cost. If something isn't fun anymore, I take a break, initially temporarily, but it could become permanent. Time is short in this life - waste it wisely.
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The body has been mounted on the chassis and the wheels have gone on. Some of the detail parts of the turntable have been attached. I'm aware I'll need to touch up the paint in places, but it's starting to look more like a model that's nearly finished than one that's just started, which is comforting given we're into the last month of the group build.
I just had a panic when I thought I'd accidentally thrown away part 141 on a sprue I thought was empty. Thirty minutes of frantic searching and checking of photos and instructions revealed it's actually a clear part and I still have it. Turns out what looks like a winding handle is some kind of floodlight
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I hit that stage in the build where everything seemed to go wrong. It started when I assembled the base of the ladder mounting / turntable assembly. The fit was terrible, so although I'd already painted all of the parts before assembly I was forced to sand, fill and respray. I then discovered that the bottom part of the ladder mounting frame that I'd assembled and painted couldn't be fitted over the former assembly and should have been built around it. I managed to rescue this by removing only the end section.
I only had a bit of the red paint left in the pot (Revell Aqua), so I decided to guess roughly how much was in there and add the right amount of thinner. I didn't realize how much thicker (and brighter) the last bit of the paint was than that which I'd pipetted off previously. I got pretty much immediate tip clogging, threw some cleaner through the airbrush and added more thinner to the mix and it seem to be spraying much better. It wasn't. It started spluttering and laid down a thick spluttery mess. On the plus side, when you look at these old vehicles in museums, the paint is often quite thick, but it' usually even.
I've recovered it as well as i can, and decided to continue and worry about any visible parts later (much of the affected area will be hidden by later parts of the build.
I've now thinned the paint further and got most of the remaining red parts ready for assembly. The instructions show pretty much everything in the ladder mount as red - I think it would look better broken up a bit more with some black and aluminium, but the only reference photos I can find are the ones posted by @jean and it does indeed seem to be almost entirely red.
Here's the latest progress pictures (the turntable assembly can easily be attached and removed as required) :
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Looking very nice. I've built this kit and it involves more work than it appears. You seem to have got the cab bodywork to fit much better than I did. There's a tricky bit still to come - lining up the windscreen to fit to the front of the roof wasn't as easy as it looks like it should be - once both parts are on it's really stable, but until I got it all together it was a right pain.
Keep up the good work.
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I had been hoping to get a few more over the line before the end of the year, but I think they'll now be 2021 completions. These are the one's that did make it - many of them were started in previous years but all year completed this year.
The first was the main focus over the Christmas break last year, Italeri's 1:24 Lancia Stratos in the classic Al Italia livery (I think it was originally an ESCI kit).
A quick build was the Academy 1:72 WW2 light vehicle set. At least, two thirds of it was quick - the Jeep is still waiting for paint. The Kubelwagen and Kettenkrad are very small models and I had much fun hunting on the floor for even smaller dropped parts.
During the first lockdown I completed the Airfix 1:32 Bugatti type 35B in the track version (lights and mudguards omitted)
and the Dapol (ex Airfix) 15T diesel crane. I managed to assemble this with the crane mounted and rigged in completely the wrong position (at the top of the cab). It was only when I had a pulley left at the end that I realised my mistake. I managed to recover and correct it, but I did have to join two pieces of rigging as I had to cut away the original rigging and couldn't redo it completely from scratch as part of it was already wound inside the closed up cab.
A summer staycation helped get the next two over the line. First was the Italeri 1:24 Lamborghini Miura (another ex-ESCI kit).
followed closely by one which I started over Christmas 2018 and was the first one I used my airbrush (a Christmas present that year) on. I didn't get a great finish as it involved much experimentation with thinner ratios, pressure and spraying distance, but it looks good in the display cabinet. It's Revell's 1:24 Ferrari 512TR.
The final "completion" is the Heller 1:24 Citröen B14 Normande. This had been on the shelf of doom for a couple of years and I decided it was never going to improve much over its current state so put the final touches to it and called it done. One of the canopy hooks is missing - I expect at some point I'll find it and stick it on.
Overall it's a much better completion rate than I usually manage - aided by the large number of kits already started.
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Many of the smaller parts have now been primed, but the main progress has been on the painting of the bodywork. I now have airbrush cleaner (amazing service - 24 hours from order to delivery) so no longer need to ration the airbrush coats.
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I have one I bought 40 years ago - would that qualify?
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Further progress on the turntable and ladder mounting - some of these parts had some huge sink marks to fill.
I really must get more organized so that I have more than six square inches of table to work on
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The wheels are done -the spare has some pretty big ejector pins marks in the middle where they're very hard to sand out - I must admit, I ignored them thinking they would be on the back, but it turns out they'll be in full view... I might try to paint the white walls on the tyres, although looking at the museum pictures it seems only the spare tyre currently has white walls. I guess a badly painted white wall would lead the eye away from the sink marks. It's a decision I can make later.
Further progress has been made today with more priming and I've started to paint the seats and aluminium on the body. I've brush painted these as I discovered I'm running very low on airbrush cleaner and can only get it by mail order as we're back in full lock-down. Also the exhaust is now in place. The big question I need to answer now is how much of the underside should be left red, how much would be aluminium as on the top side, and how much should be black. I need to decide on this as the next big step is to mount the body onto the chassis.
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This is what the family got me for Christmas. with part of the stash in the background
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While I gave them a list of suggestions, I think they chose well!
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My understanding is that even with the trade deal some items, namely those not manufactured in the UK or EU could still attract a tariff die to the "Rules of Origin" clauses. Most obvious would be a something like Monogram kit sold by a UK seller to a customer in the EU. This might even affect Airfix on anything manufactured abroad, but I confess I'm no expert.
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I'm now off work until 7th January so should be able to make much more rapid progress. I've already got a few of the assemblies for the ladder mounting completed and these and the body section have had the first coat or two of Revell Fire Red Aqua.
While I was spraying this I also sprayed the body of the Italeri Land Rover Fire Engine which I'm also working on. I never set out to build a collection of fire engines but built a couple and found they make really good-looking models when finished and are interesting to build.
Here's the latest photo of the body.
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51 minutes ago, KevinK said:
Not quite - Hannant's are pausing exports to the EU only, while Airfix/Hornby is withdrawing from the whole of exporting for three weeks. There is a whole world outside the EU and, as I understand it, nothing changes for exports from the UK to about 150 other countries, including Canada, the US, Australia, New Zealand....
The EU has free trade agreements with many other countries which will cease to apply to UK exports after 31st December.
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What one might expect unfortunately has no legal standing. It's also not true that nothing will change on January 1st, as the UK will leave the single market so will be able to (and seems to have chosen to) impose different rules to those governing sales within the single market.
If the quotes earlier in this thread are to be believed, it seems that non-UK sellers will no longer have a VAT-exemption threshold. Noone would expect this, but it seems to be the case.
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13 hours ago, ElectricLightAndy said:
I may make it stock, or turn it into a replica of the current condition of my estate, either way, lots of scratching
Andy.
Or you could convert the full-scale one into a saloon....
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I guess you mean that E-Bay slices off the tax and charges it to the buyer's EBay account. I guess that would work. I guess it's equivalent to introducing a buyer's fee as well.as the seller's fee, with the buyer's fee going straight to HMRC.
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2 hours ago, Broadway said:
It was automatically added to the buyers costs so no option not to pay.
Cost of item £10.00
Postage £3.50
Tax £3.38
Purchase total £16.88
Fee -£0.87
Tax collected by eBay - £3.38
Total £12.63Buyer paid £16.88, I received £12.63
E-Bay doesn't work like that in all countries. Here in Austria I've never paid E-Bay - the payment goes directly to the seller. I can't imagine a private seller being too happy if he suddenly finds he has been paid the UK VAT and has to forward it to HMRC. It would
certainly stop me accepting bid from the UK.
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How does this work on E-Bay? I always pay the seller directly - does this mean I would get a second invoice from E-Bay themselves? What if I don't pay it? How would the seller know? How would the post office know?
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Lovely collection of models and great photos.
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Earlier today I caught SWMBO trying to sneak a delivery of models into the house without me seeing. I thought it best to pretend not to have noticed what it was. Think I'm in for a treat in two weeks...
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That works out at one stunning large scale aircraft every fortnight. It takes me longer than that to get onto the second page of the instructions of much simpler kits. Well done - a very nice collection!
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1:32 Jaguar 420 - Confirmed for Autumn/Fall 2021
in The Rumourmonger
Posted
Apologies, I didn't mean to imply any specific problems with this kit. I just don't expect the same level of fit and detail from a 50 year old Airfix kit than I would from a brand new Tamiya or similar. Why should I - it's only a quarter of the price.