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GrantGoodale

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Everything posted by GrantGoodale

  1. Google "revell paint conversion chart". A whole lot of info there. HTH
  2. I would not be overly concerned. I doubt that they used masking tape on the real thing. FWIW
  3. I bought some micro chucks for my Dremel. Got them from Amazon a few years back. An absolute necessity. HTH.
  4. Before you go using any putty, take a few strips of the planking material and sand them away into piles of sawdust. Next, mix that sawdust with some white glue and use that as a putty. It will be much less noticeable because it is of the same wood. HTH
  5. You have done very nice work. Thanks for sharing. Did you build the case as well?
  6. Looked on ebay.ca and they have it. Looks like it is being shipped from Australia. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/ModelKasten-Metal-Cable-Rigging-for-1-700-Battleship-Extra-Fine-0-047mm-x-5m/401898326961?hash=item5d9301cbb1:g:BmIAAOSwaFddimnE Hope I'm not breaking any rules here.
  7. In North America, the UV glue is sold under the brand name Bondic. I don't know what the trade name would be in the UK. It is probably all made in China. I see that amazon.ca is showing several makes of UV sensitive glue. HTH
  8. In US and Canada, you could use Aleene's Tacky Glue. I like their fast grab but I dilute it a bit. The variety pack allows you to play around to find what you like best. I don't know if there is a Michaels chain in the UK.
  9. I have only built one Combrig kit (HMS Glascow). They are little works of art. However, they are resin along with photoetch. Not one to attempt on your first ship model unless you have some experience with other resin kits (a/c, etc).
  10. Other tips for casting the rubber. Use Leggo to create pour boxes etc. Extremely flexible for sizes. Also spray in mold release agent before you pour the rubber. If you don't have any of that, use WD-40
  11. That is basically what I do as well along with using a drop of CA accelerator on the initial point.
  12. I look forward to any replies by people who know what they are doing. I also use Ushi but I don't get near the quality you have achieved. I also find that Ushi will start shriveling up if it is held close to CA fumes too long.
  13. Try https://uboat.net/. If anyone would know it would be them.
  14. You might try combinedfleet.com. They are a treasure trove of info.
  15. I agree 100% to the great look of pure wood. Unfortunately, what I like and what my skills can produce are two different things.
  16. That is why I like painted hulls. Paint covers up a host of wood filler and wood strip sins
  17. Tamiya 1/700 USS Saratoga would be good. A quick and simple built and you could skip getting any aftermarket photoetch. I will try posting an image of mine later this week.
  18. I know several people that have had good results with the Blue Stuff. If it can take the heat, you could also use a glue gun instead of the epoxy. I haven't tried that myself (caveat emptor)
  19. What kit are you using? I have built the Artisania Latina kit and I have the Billing Boats kit in progress. Please ignore - I just noticed the Model Shipways at the head of this thread.
  20. Try a Google search for "cutty sark rigging plan". Comes up with a lot of info as well as images for you.
  21. I would suggest dampening your cloth with thinner. Damp - not wet.
  22. Hi Erik - I would suggest dampening your cloth with thinner. Just damp, not wet. HTH
  23. Wow! The amount of knowledge here is amazing. Many thanks to all of you. I still have some of the original WEM ColourCoats - great stuff. It is unfortunate that we can't get then here in Canada.
  24. GrantGoodale

    KGV versus POW

    I have the Airfix 1/600 HMS Repulse. I would also like to build a 1/600 Prince of Wales as a companion piece but Airfix only kits the KGV in 1/600. Their 1/400 kit says that it can be built as either KGV or POW. Is there a good source for the differences between the two ships? I am only looking for major external differences. Any assistance would be most appreciated.
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