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About Ologist

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  • Birthday 11/11/1960

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    Yorkshire W.R.

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  1. Ologist

    WW1 paints

    I'm in complete agreement with Paul Thomspon and Limeypilot - get the thinning right and they are a joy to spray, and although initially a bit translucent they stand multiple layering when wet. Like Paul, I add a little future which certainly makes them more resilient when dry. Difficult to give an amount to add, because they have variable viscosities in the bottle, but as a rule of thumb, 50% paint, 30% water and 20% Future works well for me. I've tried other specific acrylic thinners, but none gives as good a finish as using water. Its just a shame that Albion Alloys no longer seems to sell them Jon
  2. The probably impossible to find nowadays Americal Gryphon sheet 117 on No 1 Squadron RFC/RAF featured a number of British Nieuports, including six Nieuport 17s and three 27s. It was a product of its time though, and as with most Americal sheets, suffered from poor resolution of the black printing, and used a rather odd French blue/dull red combination for the roundels. As ever with AG the information book was very informative, if lacking in references. Regards Jon
  3. That's a beautifully finished model, in a really attractive scheme. The rigging looks really good too.
  4. Once upon a time, well, in 2016 anyway, there was the Airliners III group build...... Despite never having built an airliner before, I decided this was going to be my first group build contribution. In a triumph of enthusiasm, naivety and recklessness, I entered late on with an Eastern Express Boeing 737-300. The group build archive documents my attempts to force the warped fuselage and wings into reasonable shapes, but it was inevitable that I would eventually run out of time. For the past year the model and I have had occasional interactions, with long periods of rest and recuperation in between, but finally, having fought me all the way, I've reached the point where I can declare the thing complete. Even the painting, given that its such a simple scheme, took far too long, learning that Humbrol Clear over Halfords Appliance White is a no-no, and that DBI Boeing grey goes on beautifully and simply, but comes off with equal ease. The paint scheme is a bit of an oddity, and represents G-GDFB in the transition livery it wore in 2011 when it became part of the Jet2 fleet having previously served with Aegean Airlines. Decals are from Britmodeller's own RICHW, and gave refreshingly little trouble. Apologies for the makeshift photographic set up, all white models are a bit of a challenge. Would I do another Eastern Express 737? Absolutely.........not. Jon
  5. Ologist

    Worst model quality?

    An RPM 1/72 Beriev Be-4 bought for about the price of a pint had me thinking sadly about the pint I could have bought instead. Jon
  6. I'd been pondering how to approach the streaks for anything larger than 1/72 - I don't think decals would be convincing in the larger scales. Viking's method looks absolutely spot-on, and demonstrates both the regularity of streaks, but also the subtleties and nuances of the overall effect. I'm certainly keen to have a go a this technique. I had missed the fact that Aviattic do non-cookie cut streaking decals, and these certainly look worthy successors to the Gunsight Graphics sheets (these are transparent, so the underlying natural or doped linen colour will be apparent). The tailoring of streak angle and density to different parts of the airframe will be very helpful - the GG sheet is printed as three 9.5" x 2.6" strips, and it is possible to find the part with the right pattern, but it can be wasteful. Time to consider another Triplane or two I think. Jon
  7. Partly as a means of testing my new Village Photos account, I thought I'd come back to this thread. I was lucky enough to get a couple of sheets of Gunsight Graphics 1/72 Fokker streak decals, and tried them for the first time a few months ago on the Revell DrI. In this scale I think they work pretty well, they do need a bit of a olive green wash to tone down the harshness of the streaks, and mask the very slight pixelation apparent. I'd be very happy to use these again in this scale, and the layout of the sheet allows the streaking pattern characteristic of individual triplanes to be reproduced to some extent, which may not be possible with Aviattic's cookie cut version. Other markings are a combination of the original kit and Pheon. Jon
  8. I've tried a couple of shades recently, and have to say, I've been very impressed with them. The finish is just about as good as Alclad, but they are a bit more forgiving to spray. I've used a pressure of up to 20 psi, and they've gone on very smoothly and dried quickly, with no sign at all of graininess. Whilst they don't go down quite as thinly as Alclad, they still need a well prepared surface, as even tiny scratches and surface flaws will show through. You can easily patch up some areas and they blend in very well. A big advantage, as least time wise, is they don't need a primer coat. The smell is also not quite as overpowering as Alclad, but I still make sure I've got a lot of ventilation. They are thin enough to spray direct from the bottle, after a good shake, as they settle out quite quickly. Although described as enamels, they need something a bit stronger than white spirit for airbrush cleaning, but liquid reamer makes short work of this, if negating the advantage of their lower odour. Jon
  9. I'd missed the last posts whilst taking far too long to find my own build thread somewhere in the darkness of page 4. I'd like to offer Allexander as much encouragement as possible to stick with the build, you'd made good progress, its really not that bad, etc, But it is, because I've been there, And am still there....... Jon
  10. Can it really be three months since I last posted? Interest has been maintained, and progress made, but external factors (i.e. work, work, and more work) have conspired to reduce available time to something less than minimal So we reach the last day of the group build, and is the wee EE beastie complete? Err, no. Is it likely to be completed? An emphatic yes, and hopefully this side of the new year. I'll probably resume this in the main WIP forum. However, a review of where I am now, and some (more) of the foibles of the Eastern Express 737s might still be of interest here. Findings so far: Fuselage. The two halves are more dissimilar than I first thought. They were certainly not designed by CAD and the creating of a mirror image of one half. As noted by others, the right hand horizontal tail surfaces locating slot is much higher than that on the left - in fact the fuselage is higher here. Not to difficult to partially correct with sanding and enlarging the slot downwards. The top of the fuselage towards the cockpit needs building up, I used Milliput and possibly overdid this, but the picture makes it look worse than it really is. Much sanding wit the indispensable Flexifile frame and medium tapes eventually got rid of all of the seams, and avoided flat spots in obvious areas. The rear underside of the fuselage is too flat in the kit, but I wasn't inclined to try and correct this. Panel lines have been restored, and others added, though the softness of the plastic makes keeping to a constant depth difficult.A coat of Alclad grey primer, and a lot of polishing got to this stage, with just a couple of small areas need further attention: Horizontal tail surfaces. A bit of scraping to thin the trailing edge of each half is all that was needed. The fit to the fuselage is very good. These won't be attached until the wings are on. Wings. Almost a disaster. The two halves of each wing were so warped as to produce an X-wing fighter effect. I tried to correct the first via the boiling water method, and managed to thoroughly mangle the training edge, and ended up with one of the flap track housings pointing at a 45 degree angle. Experiments with the other wing showed the warp would disappear just by gluing. This was the closet that the whole project got to being scrapped. Much effort was put into rebuilding of the trailing edge, and at the same time thinning both, Generous applications of Mr Cement S and clamping did the trick, though at the expense of a few dents in the surface, and loss of much panel detail. Scriber time again. After this, attaching the engine pylons was easy, However the 1mm step between this and the part molded on the wing and the wing was enough to be hilarious. Milliput to the rescue again.The top of the pylon above the upper wing was very blobbish, good clear photos of this region are not quite so easy to find - most people who photograph the wing from the cabin seem more interested in the trailing edge. Some sanding has got these to a more engineeringly sound form. They may not be accurate, but they are closer than they were. The offset tabs on each wing ensure the dihedral is correct, but they do need shortening by a couple of millimetres per wing. Fit of the right wing is very good, the lower left is slightly short shot on the inner side, and will need some filler. Engines. Another interesting engineering approach, and one that could have worked well. The two halves of the engine casing don't match the profile of the front part, but it's relatively easy to sand down the joining surfaces on the top side, and apply a lot of downwards pressure as the glue sets. Joining the engines to the pylons, and fairing these in is going to be the last major challenge, but if nothing else, this build has increased my confidence in Milliput's ability to be sanded into the shapes that Eastern Express might have intended, but their tool cutters failed to deliver. So, has this all been worth it? Of course not, but it hasn't taken up very much actual hands on time, and the sanding and polishing can be quite relaxing. Would I start another one? Until this is finished, definitely not. If and when it gets finished, then the chances of going through this again might just reach 1 in a 1000........ Jon
  11. It might make sense to use it as a stain or colour modifier for other Alclad shades, but the Alclad website doesn't suggest this, and shows one of their standard 'shapes' fully coated in Jet Exhaust. The effect there seems to be a bit more metallic than I've obtained, but not by much. I'll try it over or under something else. I've had another look at my own bottle of Jet Exhaust, and what I thought was 3mm of metal in the bottom turned out to be a tide mark from previous shaking and swirling. There's less solid content than in a Christmas snow globe.
  12. This is utterly inspiring work. It would be impressive in 1/48 scale, in 1/72 its's fantastic.
  13. In one of those strange coincidences, I used Alclad jet exhaust for the first time last weekend, and was also puzzled very black, very gloss, but very non-metallic result. It doesn't seem to lay down as easily as all other shades I've used. I've given it time to settle out in the bottle again, and the metal content is barely 3mm deep. A bottle of airframe aluminium has at least 10mm of metal powder at the bottom. I'm beginning to suspect this is a rogue batch.
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