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Malc2

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  1. Malc2
    The best advice I can give you would be to work with the casting supplier from the start, as he will be able to advise you on the best way to make core box tooling which could affect the design of the part (draft angles/core split lines etc). Malc.
  2. Malc2
    Agree with Codger, for the inlet manifold sand castings would be used for the cores and most probably the external shape also. Lost wax is too expensive for this application. Even Ferrari (or their suppliers) have to work down to a cost! When the castings are cool, they go in to a huge shaker which literally shakes the sand out. The core sand is held together with a resin when the cores are made, which if done correctly burns off with the heat when the molten aluminium is poured in to the core box, so when the whole lot is cool the sand 'should' just fall out with a little persuasion. The burning resin is the horrible acrid smell you get if you have ever been near a foundry that makes this type of part! The wrinkling/crazing you can see in the manifold end view (the one with the red lines superimposed) of the external surfaces is caused by poor tooling maintenance or old tooling. The block looks like a high pressure die casting. Malc.
  3. Malc2
    If I may offer further expalantion to this question, having been involved with the design and manufacture of aluminium engine block castings for most of my working life. The pockets refered to are to reduce the amount of aluminium in what would otherwise be a large triangle of aluminium cast in one place (for the head bolt), otherwise you would get excessive shrinkage in this area, leading to porosity in the casting. - not good where you want max strength for the head bolt threads and no leaks from the water jacket! Secondary benefits are reduced weight and cost. PS - Nick, fantastic job on the engine by the way! Malc.
  4. Malc2
    You have the bug now! The MP4/6 is a fantastic set, recently saw 2 side by side MP4/6's - one built with the TopStudio set and one built out of the box and the difference was amazing. Good luck with finding the MP4/6 kit, they now fetch silly money on the bay. Best off looking on faceache market place for a badly listed item. The Hiro MP4/6 in Detail Vol 2 magazine is worth buying and the long out of production Formula Perfect Manual No2 MP4/6 is a good resource if you can find a copy, but there is a scanned .jpg version floating about the internet if you know who to ask. Malc.
  5. Malc2
    Win! M.
  6. Malc2
    I feel your pain, however there is an easy solution:- 99% isopropyl alchohol used on a cotton bud, or even better the end of a stick of sharpened balsa wood, as a cotton bud is a bit big for that. It doen't attack any form of plastic and is safe on your skin and is water soluble. The sooner the better, as the paint will become more difficult to remove as the days pass and the solvents evaporate. With a light misting as you have I would have a high hopes of success. It has recovered lots of my builds! M.
  7. Malc2
    Fantastic, the new wheels make a massive difference. M.
  8. Malc2
    Wow, looks great! Malc.
  9. Malc2
    Shall be watching with interest. The Haynes book is quite good, the photos are all in colour. (why would they not be?) Also:- GP Car Story No 3 - good but its in Japanese. Clearview FW14b by Andy Mathews, very good - but now a fortune to obtain and there is a brilliant photo collection for a tenner available from F1modlz https://f1modlz.com/ Highly recommended. Plenty of other internet builds highlighting the areas that are wong and need correcting should you wish, there were several disussions on F1M about this. I think there is also an engine and gearbox detail set due from Top Studio which should complete the sets and be available together as they did with the MP4/6. Malc.
  10. Malc2
    Nice, these large scale Tamiya kits build in to impressive model, I like the way you have displayed it. Re seatbelts, getting the right width ribbon is hard, plus the selvage on the edge is not scale. I recently came across a technique of cutting strips from wider ribbon after coating the back with thinned PVA which prevents the edges fraying. This is what I am doing with my curent build. M.
  11. Malc2
    I would be interested, pending pictures of the parts. I have been waiting for a 1/20 scale one of these. Are you selling from the UK? Malc.
  12. Malc2
    Thats interesting, which Chrome power do you use, or would recommend? I have used Molotow Liquid chrome, it gives a fantastic finish but as you say its very fragile without a clear coat. M.
  13. Malc2
    Fantastic.
  14. Malc2
    Great thanks.
  15. Malc2
    Can't help with your questions as I don't do floaty boaty things. But I can say I have followed this thread almost from the beginning and enjoyed the unfolding of the investigations very much and the way you have told the story. I was only wondering yesterday when the next update would appear - and as if by magic........! Great stuff, please keep going! M.
  16. Malc2
    Looks great. Was the chrome silver for the oil tank from a Tamiya spray can? M.
  17. Malc2
    Off line Ron and I have been discussing the rear wing differences for the 312T in 1975 and the first three rounds of 1976. So I thought it would be worth while posting the results here so everyone can chip in. The attached image shows what I have gleaned from period photos of each race. Please feel free to comment or add info if you can see anything that looks wrong! Click on the image twice to get the full size. Another change to the rear edge of the main wing element of the type two wing New V3 image uploaded with correction. Malc.
  18. Malc2
    Looks really good. I really enjoyed all the model shops in HK when I last visited! Malc.
  19. Malc2
    No worries! Glad to be able to help before its too late. I think I still have my model is in a box the loft, I will have to have a look for it. I hope I stored it upside down! (Unless it was a victim of 'The Great Parental Purge' of the mid 80s after I left home.....) M.
  20. Malc2
    Fantastic, great to see you posting here again. I built one of these when they first came out, and always wanted to make a flying scale peanut model, but was put off be the lack of wing area. You are right to make a stand, as over the period of a few weeks (months?) on the shelf, the U/C legs of my completed model gently collapsed, bending outwards under the weight of the model! Malc.
  21. Malc2
    Looks fabulous! M.
  22. Malc2
    No problem, I took three :-), I like the display, which is what caught my attention, I do not know who the modeller is. Taken at Cosford model show 2015. Malc.
  23. Malc2
    Thats great. I just found a photo I took of a display of about twenty scratch built Schneider racers in 1/144 at Cosford a few years ago. Malc.
  24. Malc2
    Hilarious! I showed this to my wife and she laughed too!
  25. Malc2
    Ooh nice. Macchi M52 next!? M.
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