Malc2

Try here:- https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/eq8iytmdtiubodc5amnv.html M.

Nice, did you order the extra detail set as well? M.

Looking good, I have seen this brass wire and filler technique used very successfully by Marcin Matejkoy on his scratch built 1/32 Laird Turner Meteor. Malc.

Hi Greggles, A tip from the great Gordon Stephens - to get a smooth part, mould the first one, leave it in place, then mould another directly over it. Some PETG's can stick together though, so be prepared to experiment. This does work really well with standard white styrene. I have limited success applying a finish to the buck, as the heat tends to affect it and either lift it or cause it to stick to the part on removal. My normal process is just before use, to warm the finished buck over the oven ring, this drives off excess moisture, raises the 'grain' of the buck which is then sanded off with very fine sandpaper, I repeat this a couple of times immediately before making a moulding. Using thicker PETG seems to result in a better opticaly clear part rather than thinner, so its worth experimenting with different thicknesses. I have had poor success making bucks from balsa wood or pine as the grain tends to show through after heating from the moulding process. I have successfully used Jelutong (very fine grain wood used for pattern making) or Ureol - I have not tried body filler, but as above can imagine that this would work well. One of my flying models in the American style with a canopy made using a Jelutong buck. Malc.

Hi Matt, Once the buck is made and the part moulded over it, its easy to cut round the edge of the part, I keep the buck inside the moulding until the part is cut out to support the canopy. Once made, the eges of the buck needs to have about 1/8 inch added, this means that all traces of the corner of the moulding that wraps round the buck is cut away. I draw the cut line on the buck before cutting. Here is the plug and canopy for a Ta152, the plug is Chemical wood (Ureol). You can see the cut line I have drawn on the plug (and the screen frame line as a painting guide). This was a scrap canopy, the final one was better. Malc.

No problem. I have to admit, making canopies is one of the bits of modelling I really enjoy doing. I usually plunge mould, but last year I made an A4 size vacform box and was surprised how well it worked. 2 weeks prep and 20 seconds to make the canopy! On another note, I noticed last year I was modelling by brail, (I already wear glasses for long distance) I found the glasses rack at poundland by chance and have never looked back (pun not intended). For a quid you can't go wrong! They are available in 0.5 diopter increments. Malc.

This made me chuckle. Oh to have the space to keep everything! Do you know what your Dad used as a mould for the canopies? Or was it outsourced to another company? I am not sure what you plan to use for masking tape, but I can't recommend Tamiya masking tape highly enough. I used all sorts before and thought all masking tape was similar(!), but having tried Tamiya a few years ago, I now use it exclusively. I have just also discovered the white stretchy tape Tamiya do for curves, its also great. Best tip for removal I was given is to pull it 180deg back on its self, it lowers the risk of pulling up the paint its stuck to. Also immediately before spraying, run round (press down) the edges with a blunt cocktail stick, helps prevent paint bleed. Sorry if its Grandma and eggs and all that, but better to say and not need than never know! Malc.

Thanks for this, I went and got it from my local(ish) Library and found it absolutely fascinating.

Oof, nice, will look forward to the build. Apparently the 'Rupert Bear trouser' decals for the radiator ducts are very hard to handle and break up very easily. Malc.

Wow, thats amazing, how did you make the wings and tail? M.

This is top work and a great and unusual model subject. My OCD is on form though, you have missed the second E from Adderley. (I spent several months at SU as part of my apprenticeship!) Malc.

Looks good, glad it all worked out OK! Malc.

Good stuff, another interesting addition to the racing fleet! M.

More great posts, thanks! Its interesting to see how big the original decal art work was. For pitot tubes - or any small parts I prefer to drill a hole. Then after primer and top coat the part can be added with a tiny drop of glue in to a positive location. Sometimes with paint and primer making the hole smaller the part can just be pushed in to place. M.

Sure to be betta than Wordle! M.

I did not know about the TSR2, were there any other 'unpublished' models? A photo of the brass masters would also be interesting to see. We could have a very entertaining time identifying the parts! Malc.

No problem. What happened to the original brass masters? Do you still have them? M.

Hi Matt, Just found this other thread right here on BritModeller, the OP was collecting and building LDM kits. I love the Miles Hawk Speed 6. Much Want!! Sadly he has not posted on BM since 2012. Malc.

Interesting, thanks! Sorry for not being clear, the kits that appeared a few weeks ago on Ebay were in boxes with no illustration and had handwritten labels which I think included the word 'prototype', which in this case probably meant first out of the moulds. I take your point about the brass masters. Edit - found them! (says Sample, not prototype) This guy had several for sale, including some LSR cars, this is the S2A:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-48-LDM-Whitemetal-Jubilee-Duo-Pitts-S2A-Special-Kit-Rare-Sample-kit-/234483925429?hash=item369854c1b5%3Ag%3AMSAAAOSwf5BiCUil&nma=true&si=xs8bvFJ36muUKZIxqZHc17EMJU0%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Malc.

Hi Matt, Do you know how many kits of each plane your Dad produced? They do pop up on the bay of E frequently, there is a Flying Flea and Pitts on now. Some prototypes were up recently although I can't find the listing again. Malc.

Hi Matt, Welcome! Looking forward to part 2. Malc.

This account? https://www.flickr.com/photos/195347857@N03 Matt, To stop polluting @greggles.w thread, and so you can create your own, I have removed the photo. To link Flickr pics, open the pic, click on the share arrow, copy the BBCode and paste the code in to your thread. Malc.

Fantastic result! Always brave putting the model alongside photos of the real thing, in this case the correlation is amazing. Wonderful. M.

So its been a while, soz and all that. But I’m a modeller and like the scorpion can’t resist stinging the frog, I can’t resist the lure of a new model(s). In this case a Ligier JS21. - I think I posted a pic in the new purchases thread. But back to the March, I have been moving it along slowly. So the front wing, repainting went well, gotta love white metal, if you make a paint mistake, chuck it in strong thinners and its ready to go again. But my 15 year old Studio 27 carbon decals would not bend round the leading edge, they just shattered no matter how much decal solution I used, I really wanted to find some BBR 1/43 carbon decal but no luck, so back to plan A v2. This time I got some super flexible Tamiya flexi tape, its very flexible and will go round corners like Lewis Hamilton (in 2021 that is). Result! Nice sharp separation lines. Seatbelts next, one thing I have been struggling with for years (literally) is that the ribbon you can buy from haberdasherereeres has a selvedge down each side, ……….seatbelts don’t. Plus its never quite the width you need. I think my missus was getting quite worried about the amount of time I was spending lurking in the ribbon aisle of sewing shops. You start with this And if you try to cut the selvedge off you just get a mess of frayed ribbon. Like this:- So what happens if I paint the wide ribbon with some PVA then cut strips THE EXACT WIDTH I NEED –will it stop the fray? A quick foray in to the depths of the garage cupboard of random stuff produced this, no idea how old it is or where it came from, but it’s some kind of PVA that dries clear. So after slapping some neat CASA liberally on the wide ribbon, and suitable drying time, slicing it up Oh yes! Result! There is still some minor fray – another coat on the cut edges sorted that. It also means I can cut the exact widths I want, whats not to like? So I carved some upper belt mounts Added some T2M bolts in to the holes in the mounts (so sad T2M don’t exist anymore) And glue the lower straps in place. Plus the roll bar adjuster made from scraps and gear knob. I just noticed the steering wheel needs a touch up. The upper belts attach to the monocoque below the air intake and will be attached on final assembly. The rear wing was assembled with 5 minute epoxy Tape on the end plates to prevent glue spillage. The made for the job wing clamp holds it all square Sadly when it was fully dry I dropped it, only a few inches on to the desk, but it neatly disassembled into its 4 component pieces, oh bother I said. Lets use 24Hr epoxy next time. Brake disks also had a go through 3 colours of paint. I will try not to leave it so long next time! Comments always welcome! Malc.

Well done! You have done a great job with a difficult model, it looks fantastic. (I took the easy route and bought an 1/18 scale diecast BT52b!) I look forward to seeing your progress with the MP4/2b, Tyrrell 020 and Lotus 79. Malc.