ScootyPuffJunior

I got my Slave I and Boba Fett on Tuesday. I would have had them Monday but the postman came while I was asleep after night shift and I had to sign for them so he couldn't leave the box at the doorstep. I cracked open both boxes and and I really impressed, especially with the Slave I. I have the Fine Molds 1/144 version as well, which is probably one of their best kits as far as fine detail goes, and this kit just blows that one way.

Cool! I had a feeling you used glass somehow, it looks brilliant.

I was commissioned by a friend of mine to build four models to recreate the trench run from Star Wars; Vader, two TIEs, and Luke's Red 5. I was excited about this because I wanted a chance to do another Red 5 X-wing after I completed my own last year and was never really happy with the final result. I started out with the cockpit and Luke. The interior was painted in Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53) and given a couple of coats of Future for the decals. I'm not too happy with the decals on the control panels, but since you can barely see inside the cockpit when it was complete I decided to leave them. I then went around and picked out some details before painting Luke. After giving everything a coat of grey Alcad II Primer/Microfiller, I went to work preshading all of the numerous panel lines over the model with heavily thinned Tamiya German Grey (XF-63), which turned out to be quite a tedious job! After the preshading was complete, I began laying down the base color. In the past, I have used a 1:1 mix of Tamiya Flat White (XF-2) and Medium Grey (XF-20), which I think makes a fine color for Rebellion ships. However, I wanted to try something different so I picked up a couple of Vallejo mixing bottles at my FLGS and set to work mixing up a custom color. I mixed one 10mL jar of Tamiya Flat White (XF-2), 2/3 of a jar of Tamiya White (X-2), twelve drops of Tamiya Flat Earth (XF-52), and four drops of Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53). Overall, I was pleased with this color. Although there is an extensive decal sheet provided with the kit, none of the decals have any of the typical weathering found on so many Star Wars vehicles. As nice as Bandai decals are, I prefer to use paint wherever possible for the most consistent finish. For the paint chipping, I used a combination of Tamiya masking tape and Humbrol Maskol applied with a piece torn foam, trying to mimic the weathering on the filming miniature as best I can. After a couple of hours, I had all of the panels on the fuselage complete. I tried to follow the studio model as best I could, but I took some liberties on various panels. I used twelve different colors on the different panels!The panels are rather stark right now, but I will go over everything with some fine grit sandpaper to give them a work look and then a combination of filters, washes, and pigments for weathering will tone them down. I moved on to painting the S-foils, which is the most complicated part of the painting due to the squadron markings. Again, the kit is supplied with high quality decals, but I much prefer the finish of paint an it's easier to weather compared to the decals. Luckily, this is not my first time trying to mask X-wing squadron markings so it went pretty well overall. The hardest part is getting the hash marks properly spaced, but after a little trial and error I think I got it. Like the red stripes on the fuselage, I used a 10:1 mix of Tamiya Flat Red (XF-7) and Hull Red (XF-9) for the squadron markings. The decal sheet has a medium grey colored decal for the lower wing panel around the cutout. I decided to use Tamiya Cockpit Green (XF-71) instead because it appears to be greenish in the reference photos I have of the studio model. Above all, I just wanted a little splash of color on the wings. I also used this time to insert the engines that I had previously painted. They were done with a basecoat of Tamiya Gun Metal (X-10) over a black primer and then highlighted with a misting of Flat Aluminum (XF-16). They were then given a light drybrushing with some Tamiya metallic weathering powder. Both sets of S-foils and laser cannons are complete. For the engine nozzles, I sprayed them with Tamiya Dark Iron (XF-84). During the weathering process, they will get multiple drybrushes of various metallic pigments. The brownish panel on the starboard engine was painted with Tamiya Medium Grey (XF-20) and the panel on the port wing by the squadron markings was painted with Tamiya Buff (XF-57). The black squares on the lower wing were painted with Tamiya NATO Black (XF-69) and the bluish panels were painted with Vallejo Model Air US Blue Grey (71.114). The barber shop stripe was painted with a mix of Vallejo Model Air blues: French Blue, Dark Sea Blue, and Intermediate Blue. I don't remember the mix ratio; I just added the different paints until I got a color I like and that more or less matched the decal. Now that all of the painting is complete, the next step will be to give the entire model a light rub with some high grit sandpaper to tone the boldness of the panels down, followed by an overall ocher filter to warm the entire model, and then begin work on the detailed weathering with oils and then pigments.

Very awesome! I love the Death Star hangar base too, that's a really nice touch. How did you get it so shiny?

Looks great! I'm sure Biggs would be very proud of your paintjob, if only he hadn't been shot down covering Luke!

The Sandtrooper is the only kit I don't have so I think I'm going to pick one up. I'd like to get another TIE Advanced because the only one I had I built when a friend commissioned me to build Vader, two TIEs, and Luke.

By all accounts, it appears to be Disney pushing this (though not unexpectedly). Now, this isn't the first time this issue has come up and when it did last time, one of the higher-ups at HLJ.com post on the Starship Modeler forum that if such a situation like this occured, it would not affect HLJ from selling kits to people overseas. As of today, all Bandai kits are available on their website and you can preorder Slave I and the Boba Fett models as well. What is troubling is that none of the newly announced Episode VII kits are being shown available for preorder on their English website, but they are on their Japanese website. However, despair not! There are websites that can forward you items bought in Japan. While it might add on to shipping and handling costs, I think these kits from Bandai have shown to be worth it.

I saw they were available for preorder again last night while I was looking for model ship stuff on HLJ. Against my better judgement, I went ahead and preordered Slave I, even though I already have the Fine Molds version in both 1/144 and 1/72. I also ordered the Fett kit because, hey... why not?

Looks great! I have a bunch of these kits myself and I've built one (just to compare it to the Fine Molds version) but have not yet painted it. The laser canons definitely need a spot of glue as the connection isn't the greatest. Both the standard TIE and Vader's TIE/x1 are spledids kits as well. I did a TIE for fun and ended up giving to a friend of mine as a house warming gift and I have three more as part of a commission (along with an X-wing).

Very cool! I really like these Mechanicus models and I'm considering picking a few up, even though it's been some time since I've bought a GW kit.

Yeah I agree, but after I touched the spots up with some gold paint and weathered the model, you can't really tell they are there.

I just finished up the new Bandai C-3PO and it was quite a fun kit! While I wound up leaving the plating as is because the color and luster were spot on, I did do a little bit of painting. The torso section was painted with Tamiya Rubber Black (XF-85) and given a light drybrush with 502 Abteilung Faded UN Grey. I then used various Vallejo greys to pick out the wires. The back of the knee joint was painted in a similar fashion. The torso hydraulics were painted with Vallejo Liquid Metal Old Gold and VMA Steel. I also used VMA Steel to paint the hydraulics on the arms. After it was completed, I gave the entire model a gunk wash with 502 Abteilung Starship Filth oil paint. The oil drips on his chest were painted with thinned down 502 Abteilung Engine Grease oil paint.

Thanks everyone! I was particularily proud of how this model turned out and I'm happy to report that it is safe with its owner, though not without giving me a scare on the way there! The guy I made it for lives about an hour away from me here in Virginia so my kids, my mom, and I drove it up to hand it off to him. About half way there, my mother, who was holding the model in her lap the entire trip, briefly let go of it to get something out of her purse. At the same time, I stepped on the accelerator and the model rolled off the display, bending a mast and knocking the helicopter off and snapping off both PE rotors! Luckily, I had planned ahead and brought some super glue and tweezers so I was more or less able to repair everything (the helicopter wasn't perfect, but it isn't noticeable).

Awesome work! I have this model in my stash and I'm looking forward to building it one day.

1/350 USS Michigan (SSBN-727); accompanied by a Veteran Models 1/350 SH-60 Seahawk (painted as a USCG MH-60 Jayhawk), Mark 48 torpedo, UGM-96 Trident I ballistic missile, and a custom display stand. Watercraft is not my wheelhouse (haha...), but I was asked by a family friend of mine if I would be interested in painting the submarine he served aboard during his time in the US Navy. I immediately said yes for a number of reasons, primarily because I have no experience with watercraft and I wanted to broaden my horizons and also because I enjoy making something that has special meaning for someone. This kit is the Cyber-Hobby 1/350 USS Chicago painted to match the Michigan as it appeared during my client's time aboard her (it has since been converted to a guided missile sub). The kit was fairly straightforward, though I was concerned when I found that the missile deck didn't sit flush with the rest of the hull so I modified it so it did. It was only after I got it glued together did I notice in some of my reference photos that the turtleback sat off of the hull. I decided against trying to fix it because I thought it would be too much of a hassle. I decided to try and re-scribe the the recessed panel lines and it turned out okay. However, I saw another build of the boat where the modeler filled all of the panel lines. I rechecked my reference photos and found that to be accurate so I did the same thing, using Tamiya putty. After about six cycles of sand-prime-sand again, I finally got the hull relatively smooth. For the hull colors, I used Tamiya Hull Red with a thin coat of Flat Red for the anti-fouling paint and Tamiya NATO Black for the top half. I used Tamiya Rubber Black for the anti-skid surface on the the missile deck; it provided just enough of a color difference to noticeable and the effect was quite pleasant. The screw was painted with VMC Brass and the masts/periscopes were painted with a mix of Tamiya Ocean Grey 2 and Flat White with the camouflage pattern done with a mix of VGA Sombre Grey and Black. I used the kit decals for the depth markings and 1/350 WWII Cruiser & Destroyer numbers from Total Navy for the hull numbers. The kit helicopter was pretty poor as far as detail goes, so I used the SH-60 Seahawk from Veteran Models as a replacement. My client requested the helicopter to be painted to match the USCG MH-60 Jayhawk. I inquired as to why he wanted this helicopter to be USGS and USN. He told me one of his duties was communicating with helicopter crews when they were surfaced and where he was based out of (Bangor, Washington) the crews he worked with were USGC and not Navy. I managed to find a decent piece of pine at Hobby Lobby that was perfectly sized for a display stand. I found a lady on eBay who makes challenge coins so I bought one and used a forstner bit to make hole and mount the coin and bought a custom made brass nameplate from US Brass Shop. The wood was given two coats of Gunstock stain and a coat of satin polyurethane to seal it. All and all, I enjoyed this model and I feel like it turned out pretty good for my first maritime model. She didn't fit in my photo tent so the pictures didn't turn out as well as I would have like, but they'll have to do. Most importantly, my client was extremely pleased with the end result! He told me that when he was on the boat, he had a model of it someone made while serving. It had passed down through a couple of different people after they left and he wound up with it. When it was his time to get out 16 years ago, he contemplated keeping it but instead found someone to pass it on to. He had wanted one to replace it since he left the Navy and he just happened to see my models on Facebook and asked me to make it for him! He will also display the model in a case in the gun shop he owns in Culpeper, VA, which is pretty cool!

I'm building a Dragon Models USS Maryland (SSBN-738) as a commission for a family friend who served on the boat. This is my first maritime model and I was wondering if anyone had some tips or tricks (or could point me in the right direction to them) for weathering a model like this. I don't want to go all out, just some subtle weathering to make it look more "authentic." Any help you guys/gals could send my way would be much appreciated!

I too have the Darth Vader kit and I've built it already as well... it's a very nice kit. The joints are pretty well hidden and the seam lines are not very noticeable, making the kit look prefectly fine being built OOB with the use of the supplied stickers or decals. I plan on filling seams and painting my kit so I didn't use anything on it, but it still looks cool in my display case as is.

Don't let the snap together aspect of the Bandai model fool you, these aren't anything like the shoddy Revell kits you find in arts & crafts stores. Overall, it's a very nice kit with a couple of cool features and a few "interesting" design choices. The thing I really like is the droid socket behind the cockpit. Unlike the Fine Molds version, a fully assembled astromech droid slides into the socket, instead of just the dome. You remove the butt plate and slide the power generator trench back and out comes the droid. It also comes with two droid bodies so you can build both an R2 and R5 series droid. The detail is really crisp and quite impressive. Also, the S-foils lock together better than the Fine Molds version making it easier to display the craft in a landed position. The thing I dislike the most is the addition of the red panels on the fuselage; it's pointless and adds unneeded complexity. The fuselage goes together sort of like a Lego kit with various small pieces plugged into various openings, some of which leave slight gaps. The finished product looks fine, but I prefer Fine Molds method of keeping the fuselage in two main pieces to eliminate most seam lines and gaps. Outside of the gaps in the fuselage, the only other areas I've had issues with is the laser cannons staying on the wingtips, but this will be solved by gluing the kit (which I intend to do). As to which I prefer... it's a toss up to me. The Fine Molds kit is what I am most familar with (I have 5 or 6 of them, both in 1/72 and 1/48) but they aren't without their faults. That being said, neither is the Bandai kit (as previously mentioned). There are lots of areas that have different proportions and different detail and the Bandai version is certainly more "busy," especially along the fuselage. I am a huge Star Wars fan, but regarding which model is a more accurate resemblence to the "real" X-wing, I don't really care. Despite their differences, they both look like X-wings to me, which is all I'm really interested in. Here are some side-by-sides I took of a painted Fine Molds kit next to an unpainted Bandai kit:

Thanks mate! The colors aren't as bright in normal lighting conditions, that is more of an effect from the photo tent lights and my photo processing.

No, the warmth was intentional to contrast with my Imperial ships displayed next to in my cabinet. It's a 1:1 mix of Tamiya Medium Grey and Flat White, as per the instructions, with two layers of MiG Brown Filter applied over it. I haven't really been able to put my finger on what I dislike about it, but I'll probably either not use Medium Grey next time or add more white.

Fine Molds 1/72 scale model; completed in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics, 502 Abteilung oils, and Secret Weapon Miniatures pigments. No decals used for the markings or colored panels. After all the hard work I put in to this model, I'm not that happy with how it turned out. I don't like the base colour, the pigments are not how I want them, and the little decals still piddle me off. Personally, I think the photos look better than the model (for once). I still have three more of these guys plus the 1/48 scale one to build so I definitely learned a lot moving forward.

Thanks for the input! I agreed, TIE/Ln fighters were a mass production machine, but the TIE/x1 Advanced was a prototype that never made it in to production. My understanding is that Vader had the only one, so keeping it looking factory fresh would be near impossible due to lack of parts. I also took in to consideration that Vader was a skilled mechanic and would most likely oversee any and all work done to his personal vessel (probably even doing the work himself after he Force choked his eighth mechanic for doing something wrong). I also based the idea of weathering and chipping on this picture, which I'm fairly certain is of the the studio model: Whether that was exactly how the ship appeared in ANH or the byproduct of years of handling after filming, I cannot say. As far as the color goes, I chose what I thought looks better over what may be technically correct. However, I still maintain in the orignal theatrical release, Vader's ship was the same color as his wingman's. In fact, you can watch this video on YouTube of the Theatrical Release and the Special Edition side-by-side and see the difference (go to 6:50 and pause it):

I'm building this model currently as well. I've reached the stage now where I have to think about how I will prime and paint it. Priming a (more or less) completed model is feasable and the only real issue I see is getting the gunmetal paint on the exposed engines in the S-foils. What I will most likely do is paint the entire S-foil assembly so I can paint the gunmetal parts and then assemble the fuselage, fill and sand any gaps, and then prime the rest of the model.

Since I am between commissions right now, I managed to get some work done to some personal projects. After completing the TIE/Ln fighter, I wanted to tackle something a little more complicated (in terms of painting at least). For Darth Vader's personal starfighter, I decided that a "factory fresh" paint job was inadequate for the Dark Lord considering that his fighter has surely seen plenty of action against the Rebellion. For this model, I primed everything in white and gave it a base color of Tamiya Sky Grey and Flat White mixed at a 1:1 ratio. I then used Vallejo Masking Fluid to apply chips along corners and panel edges and gave the model a preshading of VMA Black followed by a coat of Tamiya Sky Grey. After I removed the liquid mask I sealed everything with a couple of coats of Future and gave it a wash with 502 Abteilung Starship Filth. After I cleaned up the excess, I began to discolor individual panels using 502 Abteilung Faded Grey, Faded UN White, and Faded Navy Blue followed by a couple of coats of matte varnish. The black wing panel interiors were masked and painted with a 6:1 mix of VMA Black and VMA Arctic Blue metallic to give them a metallic sheen. The kit calls for the hull to be painted Air Superiority Blue, but the craft never appeared bluish to me when watching the films so I went with the Sky Grey like a standard TIE from A New Hope. Comments and criticism are always welcome!

Very cool. I just read your build log and saw all that detailing you added to the hull; most impressive! I have no knowledge of the show these ships come from, but they look realy cool and I want to get some to add to the "to be built" pile.