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ScootyPuffJunior

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Everything posted by ScootyPuffJunior

  1. ScootyPuffJunior
    I received the T-70 X-wing in the mail yesterday. It is a lovely kit! My only complaint is the decal sheet. There are lots of neat little decals on the kit, but some of them are on top of blue panels. I don't use decals unless it's something I can't paint by hand, so with some of these little symbols and lettering, I'll either have to use the decal or just not add the detail. I'm not totally against using the decals, but I'm worried that I won't be able to color match everything else I paint on the model. If I have time tonight I'll snap some pictures of the sprues and decal sheet.
  2. ScootyPuffJunior
    Porkins is nearing completion! The oil paint has dried and now a couple of coats of matte varnish are drying on the model before I move on to discoloring the individual panels with different oil colors. I'm not sure what to do with the base at this moment, but I probably won't use the Death Star tile that came with the kit. In other news, I have decided to sell this model the client that had commissioned me to build Luke's X-wing and TIE fighters. I had originally wanted to keep this model for myself, but he made an offer I couldn't refuse so I accepted it (though the fact that my living room TV went out on me and needs replacing also helped convince me to sell it!).
  3. ScootyPuffJunior
    This is a short updated, but I've started the gunk wash on Porkins' X-wing, using my favorite oil color, 502 Abteilung Starship Filth. In this picture, the bottom half of the fuselage has already had the oil paint applied and wiped awway while the top half has not, leaving a noticeable difference. After all of the parts are done they will be left to dry for a week or so and then will be given a matte varnish in preparation for more weathering. Gunk washes have quickly become one of my preferred methods of weathering. The dirty surface effect they create works very well with Star Wars ships and it really makes a nice base for the rest of the weathering.
  4. ScootyPuffJunior
    I received the Millennium Falcon kit in the mail today... it is absolutely fantastic.
  5. ScootyPuffJunior
    Just a straight up paint of his X-wing. It's probably my favorite color scheme so I wouldn't want to ruin it!
  6. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thanks! I love the color scheme on Red 6, even though it's one of the simpler schemes (I guess that's the product of being a pyro model!). Thanks mate! I have a drawer full of oil paint too and some overflow from my shelves as they're not large enough to hold everything. I'd really like to expand to some more brands like Gunze, but they aren't the easiest for me to source in the States.
  7. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thanks mate! Yes I will post the diorama but I haven't started it yet. I plan on doing the layout this week to figure out how many times I need to cast and start purchasing material.
  8. ScootyPuffJunior
    I had some free time and an X-wing in pieces so I decided to do a quick build of the most endearing Rebel pilot from Star Wars: Jek Porkins! This is supposed to be a for-fun project, but when the client that I did Luke's X-wing for caught wind of it, he told me he was interested in buying it. He has the Porkins statue from SDCC 2014 and wants to display the ship next to it. However, I haven't decided if I'm willing to part with it... His color scheme has always been among my favorites and I think it's because it has similar colors to my favorite American football team, the Washington Redskins. Since this model was already disassembled, I went ahead and primed everything with some Tamiya Surface Primer from a rattle can. I preshaded everything with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63) and then gave the model a base coat using the same color I mixed for Luke's X-wing. His paneling isn't as varied as Luke's, but it is still rather interesting and the dark red color is unique to his ship. The yellow is Vallejo Model Air Ochre (71.033) and the dark red is a 4:1 mix of Vallejo Model Air Hull Red (71.039) and Fire Red (71.084). I used AK Interactive Heavy Chipping Fluid for the scuff marks on those colors. The lighter red is a 10:1 mix of Tamiya Flat Red (XF-7) and Hull Red (XF-9). I used some masking fluid applied with a piece of torn foam for the chipping effects. With the filter on this model, I used white spirits instead of turpenoid like last time. I let a piece of sprue soak in some white spirits all day and there seemed to be no ill effects so I went ahead and gave it a try. There are two coats of a filter made with 502 Abteilung German Ochre; the effect is obvious on the S-foil with the grey paneling, which was painted with Tamiya Royal Light Grey (XF-80). I added the grey panel just to give the model a little more variation. After this dries for a day or so, I'll give everything a couple of coats of Future in preparation for more weathering!
  9. ScootyPuffJunior
    I've had no problem ordering them on Amazon here in the States for the same price (even a little less because most of them are Prime) as I was paying on HLJ. I should have the Falcon in hand this week and the T-70 X-wing sometime after that.
  10. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thanks! I'm glad you were able to pick some tidbits up from my WIP. For my photos I use two 60W equivalent daylight LED bulbs with a $30 photo tent that has a black 'felt' backdrop that I bought from Amazon. Settings on these pictures: Nikon D3100 with the kit 18-55mm lens; 10 second exposure @ f/22, ISO 100, manual white balance. I use Gimp 2.0 for processing, usually just some color balance. After looking at the pictures some more, I think they're slightly overexposed so I might reshoot them (and get some different angles).
  11. ScootyPuffJunior
    I dunno. I can still find lots of them on eBay here in the States. I have a T-70 X-wing on pre-order througha seller on Amazon.
  12. ScootyPuffJunior
    Looks good! Did you paint this kit? If so, would you mind sharing what colors/brands of paint you used?
  13. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thank you! I have completed the model and it's up on the RFI forum now!
  14. ScootyPuffJunior
    I just finished up my build of Bandai's 1/72 X-wing, painted as Luke Skywalker's Red 5. This model was commission by a friend of mine as part of a trench run diorama with Vader and his two wingmen. This was my second go at Luke's X-wing after I did a Fine Molds version for my personal collection last summer. The Fine Molds version of this kit really doesn't compare to the Bandai one; Bandai's is superior in just about every way. The only real downside is how Bandai's plastic reacts to thinner, which is something I'll take into consideration on my next Bandai build. In my short time building models (three years), this has by far been the most fun I've had working on a model. It's just a shame that it won't be living in my display case! Comments and criticisms are always welcome!
  15. ScootyPuffJunior
    I added the grey/black chipping on the S-foils and some other spots on the hull. I had forgotten to do this but luckily I caught it before I got any further on the weathering. It's a small detail but it's pretty distinctive and helps complete the model. Working on some panel discoloration, primarily on the underside of the X-wing. I used some browns and greys to discolor a handful of panels using the studio model as a guide. The oil is very thin, almost a filter consistency, and will dry quickly. After it had dried, I'll protect it with a matte varnish and move on to some pigments. This model is nearing completion and as soon as it's done, I'll begin working on the Death Star tiles for the the trench run. I have to buy a new workbench because my painting desk is nowhere larger enough to handle the volume of work that I will have making all of these tiles.
  16. ScootyPuffJunior
    I do have quite a bit of paint and unfortunately, the shelves I built to hold it all aren't big enough so I have a bunch in a drawer. I plan on building some additions to them but it's not high on priority list at the moment. I don't think the torpedoes are going to be a permanent fixture on the display and I just put them on the base to show them off. I did manage to reassemble the X-wing: There is still some oil drying on it so I'll probably let it dry until the weekend at least before I attempt to do anything else too it.
  17. ScootyPuffJunior
    I don't have the space either, but my friend that commissioned this does! Also, I'll be breaking it into two different pieces; one with Luke and the exhaust port and one with the TIEs. I would have liked to keep it together, but for the ease of displaying and transporting it, two pieces is probably better. The diorama was my idea so I'm just doing it on cost with on the condition that I can borrow the diorama to take it to model shows and conventions
  18. ScootyPuffJunior
    Like a cat distracted by a laser pointer, sometimes I just can't help myself... While waiting for the oil paint to dry on the X-wing, I decided to crack open one of my Y-wing kits to have a look inside. Of course, one thing led to another and I built and painted the cockpit. I primed it with black Alclad II primer and gave it a base coat of Tamiya Rubber Black (XF-85). I gave it a dry brush of Flat Aluminum (XF-16) to give it a worn look and went through and picked out panels and knobs with various Vallejo greys. The instruments on the front panel were painted with Tamiya clear paints. I then gave everything a brown enamel wash. After it dried, I used a Tamiya gunmetal pigment bring some of the metallic sheen back that the wash darkened. There is a pilot but I did not paint him as this ship will be displayed landed. I've had pictures taken off of my blog without my permission and it cheesed me off so I've started labeling my pictures like AndyRM (thanks for the idea... hope you don't mind!).
  19. ScootyPuffJunior
    Fantastic finish, mate!
  20. ScootyPuffJunior
    I had my camera out to take glamour shots of the TIEs for the Star Wars commission so I decided to take a couple of nice pictures of the Luke for a before and after shot when the weathering is complete. The model is extra shiny because it has two coats of Future on it in preparation of oil paints. Personally, I think the model is gorgeous as is, but it would be an X-wing if it wasn't weathered to the nines! I managed to disassemble the model even though I had originally intended on doing all of the weathering on the completed model. Taking it apart was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be and I'm happy I did it; it was a lot easier to work on without getting in my own way. I was planning on doing a panel line wash over the entire model, but I made a command decision to instead give the entire model a gunk wash. A gunk wash is a tried and true weathering technique that move model makes have relied on for years and I first learned about it after watching Adam Savage build models on the Tested YouTube channel. The process is very simple: put your desired oil color on a palette, apply generous amounts of oil paint on the model without thinning it, then wipe it off with a rag. This ends up discoloring the entire surface of the model and allows oil paint to build up in panel lines and recesses. This can be done over a matte or gloss varnish; matte leaves more oil on the surface compared to gloss, which may or may not be desired. Now the oil paint sit for a couple of days to dry completely before I begin to add more oils of various colors to give the model some tonal variations. After that oil has dried, the oil will be sealed with matte varnish and then I will apply pigments for the final stage of weathering.
  21. ScootyPuffJunior
    I finally got around to taking some showcase photos of the TIEs for the ongoing Star Wars commission. I wanted to play around with using a white backdrop instead of the black backdrop that I usually use. Overall, I like it; the pictures seem brighter (duh!) and more vivid. I forgot to adjust the white balance on my camera before I shot these so they're slightly off but not too bad. I also need to get a better quality backdrop than the ones I currently have, but I'm in no hurry for that at the moment.
  22. ScootyPuffJunior
    The turpenoid just got to areas with bare plastic and give the pressure that some of those joints are under, it cracked. It's not too big of a deal, just frustrating. It also happened to Artoo's dome so I'll have to scavenge one out of another box (I have like five of these kits so I have lots of spares!).
  23. ScootyPuffJunior
    Very interesting. I always enjoy seeing other modeler's work process and hearing the reason behind the way they do things. Thanks for sharing! Also, that's a great color for the snowspeeder... I think I will use it when I get around to painting mine.
  24. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thanks everyone! I began my work shift yesterday so I won't have much time to work on the model over the weekend but I do have a short update. After I applied two coats of an ochre filter and allowed the model to dry for a couple of days, I went ahead and assembled the model completely. I was initially going to hold off on this step and weather each section of the model individually, but after some test fitting with another one of these models I have in pieces, I decided to go forward with assembly. I also think that it will be easier to get a more consistent finish in the weathering since I can do the entire model at once. The next step is to give the model a couple of coats of Future before applying an oil panel line wash across the entire model and a gunk wash in some selected areas such as the engines and droid trench. After the oil dries for a couple of days, I will seal it with some matte varnish and begin applying pigments, using the studio model as a reference. I would also like to note that the ochre filter is much more noticeable in person than compared to these pictures I snapped with my iPhone camera. Also, as you can see the base is not yet painted.
  25. ScootyPuffJunior
    After giving the entire model a rubdown with a 3200 grit sanding sponge, I applied a filter using 502 Abteilung German Ochre thinned excessively with odorless turpenoid. When I went to see if it was dried, I found this: Other modelers have had issues with oil paint thinners reacting to Bandai plastic, specifically the AT-ST kit, but this is the first time I've seen it on an X-wing and the first time it's happened to me. While these few issues can be fixed with some cement and then hidden with weathering, it now has me worried that other areas of the model will be damaged by the turpenoid. Other than these issues, the filter worked great in toning the color down and warming the base color, so that's a positive.
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