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ScootyPuffJunior

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  1. ScootyPuffJunior
    I picked it up on Amazon.
  2. ScootyPuffJunior
    The Special Forces TIE had already been released; I have one in hand that I received last week.
  3. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thanks! Yes, the cockpit glazing was sprayed with Tamiya Clear Red (X-27). I was actually pretty nervous about doing that because it's something I've never attempted but I think it turned out okay. Bandai also has a Special Forces TIE and I just got it in the mail earlier this week.
  4. ScootyPuffJunior
    First Order TIE fighter Bandai 1/72 scale All-in-all, I think it turned out okay. When painting this I remembered how difficult black is to pull off on a model and how annoying it can be to photograph properly. Speaking of which, I think I'm going to invest in some new photo backdrops because this felt-like one I have now pisses me off!
  5. ScootyPuffJunior
    Awesome job! This one blows mine out of the water for sure!
  6. ScootyPuffJunior
    Yes. The overall shape is still as almost identical but it's smaller and the hull greeblies, guns, and other details are different.
  7. ScootyPuffJunior
    That turned out great! I have one of these in my stash that I would like to get around to building eventually.
  8. ScootyPuffJunior
    I had issues with odorless turpenoid I used when doing s filter on an X-wing I did over the summer. I had numerous stress fractures even though the model had two coats of Future on it (the thinner found its way in to the press connections). AK Interactive enamel washes caused the dome on R2 to crack on that model as well. I used low odor mineral spirits on another X-wing and I had no issues with any cracks.
  9. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thanks! I want to weather him a little more so he looks more like the filming puppet, but I'm not too sure how best to go about it. Do you have any suggestions?
  10. ScootyPuffJunior
    BB-8 Resistance pilot Poe Dameron's loyal astromech droid Bandai 1/12 My first model kit of 2016 is done! It was a nice way to jump-start the modeling juices after I spend most of December horribly burnt out. The only weathering I did was to give him a gunk wash of 502 Abteilung Starship Filth; this was done on top a satin coat of Future. I opted to keep that finish because it is accurate to the filming puppet. I might add some pigments here and there, but I'm going to leave the weathering as is for now.
  11. ScootyPuffJunior
    I primed all of the parts with Alclad II grey primer and let them dry for about an hour. Since it is a lacquer-based primer, the cure time is incredibly fast; the bottle says it's dry in 30 minutes, but I always like to get it a little extra time. However, after it dried I realized I hadn't decided what direction to take with the paintwork yet. Normally I would preshade everything and then apply the base coat, but I'm worried the preshade might throw off the "look" of the model. I'm also worried about how shallow some of the panel lines on the body sphere are so I'm trying to limit the amount of paint I apply to it. All of the metal parts were primed and then painted with Alclad II Aluminum (ALC 101), which is the most realistic finish possible for a model part. In the above picture, the hatch on the left is how it appears directly from the sprue while the one on the right has been sprayed with Alclad II Aluminum and it's a night and day difference (the bright lights of my painting desk help exaggerate it as well). It's also important to remember that Bandai's metallic-colored plastic is actually pretty good and would look decent enough straight from the box. After a little trial and error, I found a paint mix that I think looks pretty good. It's a little darker than the kit plastic, but after looking over some reference photos of the puppet used in the movie I think it works really well. It's made with Vallejo Model Air Orange (71083), VMA White (71001) and VMA Yellow mixed 4:4:1 with just a touch of VMA Hull Red (71039) added to it. I might go back and add some shading with some brown but I haven't made up my mind on that yet.
  12. ScootyPuffJunior
    I recently picked up the new R2-D2/BB-8 combo kit. The Artoo is just a repackaging of the released in the spring of last year, which is nice to have multiples of, but obviously the main draw is BB-8! As people who have seen The Force Awakens know, BB-8 is the new ridiculously adorable droid that pals around with Poe Dameron (and later Rey) and like Artoo before him, is key to the plot of the movie. I went back and forth on whether or not I wanted to paint this kit. I was leaning towards "not" because I wanted this build to be the thing to break the modeling funk that I've been in the entire month of December. After thinking about for the better part of a day, I decided that I would paint the entire kit. Color matching his orange will probably be tricky as I don't have the widest selection of orange paints on hand and I don't really feel like ordering the paints to match. Other than that, it will be an easy build because everything else is either white or silver. So in order to prep for painting, I removed all of the parts from the sprue tree and made a BB-8 forest on my hard Styrofoam blocks with the pieces organized by the part of the body that they belong too. Everything will get a coat of Alclad II grey primer before I move on to the painting. Like Artoo, BB-8 comes with all of the gadgets you see in the film: the 'disk drive,' the arc welder, and the blowtorch. I haven't decided if I will use any of these extras, but I'm leaning towards painting the blowtorch just because that scene in the which he uses it is pretty amusing!
  13. ScootyPuffJunior
    For a more neutral grey on TIE fighters, I use Tamiya Sky Grey (XF-19) and for the blue-grey I use Tamiya Ocean Gray 2 (XF-82) and Flat White (XF-2) mixed 1:1. For X-wings, I used a custom mixed color using one 10mL jar of Tamiya Flat White (XF-2), 2/3 of a jar of Tamiya White (X-2), twelve drops of Tamiya Flat Earth (XF-52), and four drops of Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53).
  14. ScootyPuffJunior
    The 1/144 fighters are going to be small but should lend themselves nicely to display and diorama options with the 1/144 Millennium Falcon and Slave I.
  15. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thank, mate! Thanks for adding that GIF because I had thought about putting it in my OP but I forgot! It's a classic for sure! Thank you! I did Luke's Red 5 a couple of months ago and you can find it here; it was a commission for a friend of mine who ended up talking me into selling him Red 6, even though I had intended on keeping it for myself. I plan on doing Red Leader next, but I may do a T-70 after I see The Force Awakens this week. It's a bummer you don't like the T-70... I love it! It's a neat throwback to the Ralph McQuarrie concept art (based on designs by Joe Johnston) from the 70s.
  16. ScootyPuffJunior
    Number three.
  17. ScootyPuffJunior
    I don't think Bandai ever explicitly teased that Star Destroyer they had on display the way Dragon is with this AT-AT.
  18. ScootyPuffJunior
    Thanks everyone! I too am pleased with how this model turned out and I'll be sad to see it go when it gets dropped off with it's new owner on Sunday...
  19. ScootyPuffJunior
    INCOM CORPORATION T-65 X-WING SPACE SUPERIORITY FIGHTER Jek Porkins (Red 6) Incom Corporation T-65 X-wing space superiority fighter (Red 6); Bandai 1/72 scale finished in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics, 502 Abteilung oils, and Secret Weapon Miniatures and Tamiya pigments. A work in progress thread can found here.
  20. ScootyPuffJunior
    Painting on Porkins' base is complete! I used Vallejo Model Color Flat Red for the Starbird and Mr. Color Flat Black (lacquer) for the black. I will let the paint on the base dry overnight and then give it a gloss lacquer for a smoother finish. I already have the acrylic rod cut to the proper length and then I will epoxy everything together.
  21. ScootyPuffJunior
    Here are some better pictures: I've already done one wooden base for the model, but I ended up ruining it and I haven't had time to go back to the store to buy a replacement yet. Also, it would seem that I didn't size that third picture properly (or I made the other three too small!).
  22. ScootyPuffJunior
    This ship really is a thing a beauty and I can't wait to see what you do with it. I have one as well and it's on the short list of potential future projects.
  23. ScootyPuffJunior
    There was a model of the ship on display along with other props at Star Wars Celebration over the summer and it did not feature glazing. I typically use the glazed canopies because I like making the ship appear "real," but I've done a few without just for expediency's sake.
  24. ScootyPuffJunior
    All of the oil and pigment weathering is complete! I used the same process on this ship that I did on Luke's: various oil paints for panel discoloration and pigments for streaks and blaster marks. I also picked up some small wood plaques from Hobby Lobby to serve as a base. They came in a two-pack and were pretty cheap. (Like $3 or so). I won't be using the plastic stand, that was just for demonstration purposes. I'm thinking of making the base gloss black with a red Starbird in the center and attacking the ship with a clear acrylic rod or a metal rod painted black.
  25. ScootyPuffJunior
    Yeah, I saw those decals and couldn't find them on the decal map. The problem is that there are only four of those black hash marks but there should be eight (two on each intake). I think i'll press my luck with the decals on that area and if it doesn't look right, I'll just remove them. I bought some Mr Hobby paint so I can match the blue as close as I can. According to Sculpting a Galaxy, the color used for ANH TIE fighters is Pactra Stormy Sea Grey. The closest match I know to that color is Tamiya TS-32, which is only in an aersol can. I've used XF-2 Flat White and XF-82 Ocean Gray 2 (RAF) mixed 1:1 and it's pretty close to that color.
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