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ScootyPuffJunior

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Everything posted by ScootyPuffJunior

  1. Thanks Andy! I was heavily inspired by your BB-8 build earlier this year. I still don't think I have using enamel washes down yet, but I feel like this model was a good step in the right direction for me.
  2. BB-8 Resistance pilot Poe Dameron's loyal astromech droid Bandai 1/12 scale I started this year with a BB-8 and I finished this year with another one, albeit one as a commission instead of my personal collection! Like my previous one, this is a full paint job: the white is a custom off-white mix I've used in the past for X-wings, the orange is a mix of a couple Vallejo paints, and the metallic bits are Alclad Airframe Aluminum (ALC-119). All of the weathering was done with Mig enamels and oils. The base is a 3.5" wood cube that I spray painted satin black and I made a vinyl stencil for the "logo." Interestingly enough, I got the idea for the "logo" while I was standing in line at the craft store to buy the wood cube. My girls were looking at knick knacks they had on the shelves in the queue and my younger one found a neat little Star Wars coffee mug with BB-8 on it. She showed it to me and when I picked it up to look at it, it had this little logo on the one side (with a "BB" in the larger circle). I thought it would look cool on the base so I made a stencil of it when I got home! As always, comments and criticism is always appreciated.
  3. Poe Dameron's Black One T-70 X-wing | Bandai 1/72 scale Poe Dameron's Black One T-70 X-wing, completed in Tamiya, Vallejo, and Secret Weapon Miniatures acrylics; Alclad lacquers; 502 Abteilung oils; and Tamiya weathering pastels with a custom wooden base. This model was done as a commission along with Luke's X-wing for a fellow in Canada. This kit was a pain because I dislike painting black and the construction is not as intuitive as Bandai's classic X-wing. All in all, I think it turned out well enough on my end (I tend to be pretty critical of my own work) but more importantly, the client was extremely happy with the finished product. A WIP of this model can be found here.
  4. Awesome as always! Though I will say I'm disappointed that there was no WIP thread for this model, I was really looking forward to one.
  5. Thanks!On this model I did the chipping with a brush and Vallejo paint.
  6. R2-KT Bandai 1/12 Scale Bandai R2-KT, completed in Tamiya acrylics; Alclad lacquers; Mig & AK Interactive enamels; and Secret Weapon Miniatures pigments. For the first time ever, I decided not to paint the white and instead applied the enamel washes directly to the plastic. Coming from the BB-8/R2-D2 kit, I also noticed that this plastic is glossier than the plastic in the original release of this kit, which I found interesting. Since R2-KT is an Imperial droid, I gave her a base that resembled the Death Star hangar from the original Star Wars. If you haven't heard the story behind R2-KT, check out their website (but be prepared to have your heartstrings tugged!).
  7. Bandai 1/72 scale X-wing starfighter (Luke Skywalker's Red 5) commission. Finished in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics; 502 Abteilung oils; and Tamiya weathering pastels. I didn't do a WIP log for this build because it's more or less the same as the one I did in October of last year. I tweaked a few of the colors and weathered the panels a little more but other than it's pretty much a repeat of that build, though I think it came out a little better than my last one. The best thing I changed was using a 3mm clear acrylic rod instead of the supplied flight stand to hold the model. I just wish it was a little easier to source those rods here in the States; to get one at a reasonable price I had to order it from Hong Kong.
  8. That turned out great! I really like the finish you achieved with the weathering.
  9. After completing all of the "black" for the body of the ship, it was time to move on to the distinct orange and grey markings. Even though the pattern of the markings is fairly simple, it still ended up being a rather complex masking job! A lot of the pattern follows panel lines, which is always welcome because it tends to make the job a little easier, especially with how crisp the panel lines are on these Bandai models. As to be expected, the hash marks on the rear wings were the most difficult task. In my first attempt, I placed 2mm wide strips of tape on the wing and tried to cut along the panel line. Needless to say, it wasn't exactly easy. Feeling frustrated, I came up with the idea of using the decal sheet as a template. I placed the strips of tape between the decal markings and used a straight edge to cut the tape at the appropriate angle. This ended up work much better! After the masking was complete, I sponged some liquid mask on and gave all of the soon-to-be orange panels a splotchy undercoat of Tamiya Flat White (XF-2) to make painting the orange easier. I mixed an orange using Vallejo Model Air Orange (71083), VMA White (71001) and VMA Yellow mixed 4:4:1 with just a touch of VMA Hull Red (71039) added to it (this is the same orange I used on BB-8). After a couple layers of that were on and dried, I sponged large sections of the panels with liquid mask and applied a darker orange on top. The darker orange similar to the previous mix except with a little less white and a full drop of VMA Hull Red. I also painted the handful of grey panels using VMA US Grey (71047) and Light Grey (71050) mixed 2:1. I removed the masking tape and wiped the liquid mask away with a gloved finger (I've found that it comes off the surface of the model better using a latex glove). I decided that the interior "engine bays" needed a little variation so I painstakingly masked them all off and gave them a coat of, quite fittingly, VMA Engine Gray (71048). They'll eventually get a wash and a drybrush of metallic pigment to give them a worn look. I also went around the fuselage and painted a couple of different panels in various shades of grey just to give the surface a little more variety. With all of the panels complete, the model will get a coat of Future before giving it a black panel line wash and applying a few small decals.
  10. Red 3 has one shorter engine nozzle. Luke's X-wing has a longer nosecone and the hatch on the rear is facing down (the others face up).
  11. Starting with the interior of the cockpit, I painted it using various Vallejo greys, drybrushed it with some Tamiya metallic pigments, and then picked out some details. I also painted Poe using a mix of red and orange Vallejo paints for his flight suit and then free-handed his helmet. After priming the entire model with Alclad grey primer, I gave everything a coat of Tamiya German Grey (XF-63) with a couple of drops of Flat Blue (XF-8) added to it. A thin, splotchy coat of NATO Black, which despite it's name is actually a very dark grey, was added on top of the German Grey base color. These two colors make the "undercoat" of the model and is what will be showing under the paint chipping. I used a torn piece of foam to apply Vallejo Liquid Mask along the leading edges and anywhere paint chipping would accumulate. Once that was dry, I gave the entire model a light coat of Flat Black (XF-1) mixed 2:1 with German Grey, which served as the final "black" paint. Some of the metallic bits on the S-foils were painted with Tamiya Gunmetal (X-10) and the laser canon tips, barrels (painted after I took this picture), and engine nozzles were painted with Alclad Aluminum and given a little discoloration with Alclad Pale Burnt Metal. In addition to painting the fuselage and S-foils, I masked the canopy and gave it coat of Alclad Aluminum, sponged some liquid mask on it, and then a little bit of Alcald Dull Aluminum to give it a worn look.
  12. I wonder if the recent inclusion of English in the instructions is a sign of things to come...
  13. That's just spectacular. You could show someone that closeup and they'd be convinced they were looking at real concrete.
  14. Great work as always! I really can't wait to see how she comes together in the end... I have a feeling it will be spectacular.
  15. It's not digital camo, it's called Aztecing and it's done on a flat surface to give the impression that it's made up panels. Whether it's on the studio model is irrelevant; I didn't build a studio model replica. Google "star destroyer model" or look at the handful of other threads on here and you'll see it's a common thing to do.
  16. Bandai "Vehicle Model" Star Destroyer; finished in Tamiya & Vallejo acrylics, 502 Abteilung oils, and MIG Productions enamels. I primed the model black and then gave it a coat of Tamiya Flat White darkened with a little Light Grey. After that, I cut a bunch of tiny pieces of masking tape to a simple "Aztec pattern" on the hull. Then I lightened the original base color with more white and sprayed the ship. After I pulled the tape off, I felt that the panels were a little too dark so I dusted them with the base color to tone them down a bit. I put a coat of Future on the model and when it dried, I gave the recesses a wash using 502 Abteilung Oil Faded Grey and gave some of the darker areas a wash of toned down Mig Productions Dark Wash (enamel). Once everything was dried, I'll gave it a matte coat it and pick out some small details with a brush using Vallejo Game Color Ghost Grey. The decal was lifted from the AT-ST kit.
  17. I think the decals are for R5-D8, which was Porkins' droid, and has almost identical markings to R5-D4. The only real difference is the back of the droid: D4 has three red panels and D8 has no red panels (also, I think his antenna is a little shorter, too).
  18. Everything looks great so far! I'm so glad you are doing this build because I will be starting something similar before long and your work has been greatly inspiring.
  19. Have you seen the ParaGrafix X-wing photoetch set? It has two ladders: one that reaches the droid socket and another for the pilot. From what I can tell, they're pretty spot on to what was used in the movie.
  20. For this model, I first sprayed everything with Alclad Flat Aluminum and applied some Humbrol Maskol with a a piece of torn sponge in the areas I wanted the chipping. After that dried, I gave everything a coat Tamiya Rubber Black (XF-85), which is a very dark grey color. I removed the Maskol with some silly putty and then gave the entire model a drybrush with 502 Abteilung Faded Grey oil paint. Personally, I prefer to paint black models without using black and instead use dark greys to simulate black.
  21. I used a Tamiya Flat White with a little of Sky Grey mixed into it.
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