walkerccw

I have looked at the chart. My eyesight trying to match close colors is giving me a headache. I was hoping someone on here had experience with the color matching.

Rob G, Thanks for the answer, but all of the paints are Humbrol Enamels. I am looking for Humbrol Acrylics.

I have recently switched from Model Master Acrylics to Humbrol Acrylics. At the moment, I can only purchase Hubrol Acrylics in Mexico. I am not looking for Humbrol Acrylics close to the following Model Master Acrylic. I am a casual modeler and the colors just need to be close. Model Master 4757 Neutral Gray, (FS36270) Model Master 4852 Green Zinc Chromate (AN00628). Model Master 4851 Yellow Zinc Chromate (AN 00627) Thanks, CCW

I am currently building the Tamiya 1/72 P47-D Bubbletop Kit #60770. I have a few questions about the kit. Step 4: Part #A21,#A22 What are they for? #A33: What is it for? Thanks.

Thanks for all of the help. I am going to use the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Rattle can. I will let you know, Thanks.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I live in Mexico and getting paint here is a pain. There is one hobby shop close to here, my options are: Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, rattle can. Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer White, bottle Several MrSurfacer prodcts. Recommendations?

I brush paint everything, using Model Master Acrylics. I also prime using Stynylrez Primer Grey. Everything works well, except Gloss White coverage. I am not worried about "perfect matching". Is there a paint color I can use that is closest to Gloss White? Thanks.

I am looking for a kit that has decent fit and goes together fairly easy. I am not too worried about accuracy.

I am looking for an inexpensive B-25 kit (i live in Mexico and customs is expensive). The Italeri 1/72 B-25 kit 1309 is way less cost than most of the rest. Is there a reason why? Thanks.

I am in the process of building the 1/48 Hasegawa P-39 (09093). Kit is going together very well EXCEPT the Air Intakes (Part B1). Horrible fit, huge gaps, and affects wing alignment and wing roots. How could Hasegawa engineered such a horrible piece? Don't they do test fitting before releasing the kit? Sorry for the rant. I am just getting back into modelling after 30+ years and this kit doesn't help.

Randy, your pictures make me depressed!! Do you have any pics of the underside?

I just tried to complete the Hasegawa 1/48 Shinden. The fit was good until I got to the landing gear. Even without weight in the nose 3 of the landing gear was a horrible fit. The gear either kept bending forward or backward. I got so frustrated I tossed the kit away. If I build another one, does anyone have recommendations that I can use to strengthen the landing gear. I am a novice builder so keep that in mind! Thanks.

Andre, Wow, the Vallejo sets are nice. One question...I only brush paint, do you think I can still use them?

Hello again. I use Model Master Acrylic Paint and brush paint. There is no Imperial Japanese Army Green in Acrylic. Model Master Acrylic 4726 was close, but it has been discontinued. I am a casual model builder, so I do not need an exact match. Can anyone recommend a Model Master Acrylic that is closest in color? Thanks, Curt

Thanks Admiral. I got them mounted. I am still curious as to why Tamiya did not have the holes already in the wings. Thanks, CCW

I am building this kit after a long time of not building kits. Of course I did not read all the steps in advance. I did not open the holes in the wings for the hard points for the drop tanks/bombs. I do not understand why Tamiya makes you cut out the holes. Did the P-51B have the hard points always installed on the wings? Thanks, CCW

Dan, Can the Tamiya Paint Retarder be mixed directly in the original bottle? That would make my life so much easier! Curt

In the past, I was using Model Master paint for brushing and never had to thin it. I am now living in Mexico, and I can get Tamiya paint. It brushes on horrible, seems way to think. Getting modelling supplies here is difficult. I have read that you can use 91% Isopropy Alcohol. Can I mix it or something else in the actual bottle? Thanks, Curt

Sydhuey, If your modeling skills were were of a lower level and it had been a while since you built a kit, , would you still get the MPM kit?

I keep going back and forth on which kit to buy based on price. When I was building kits years ago, it was easier to make decisions based on price. I could get a Revell kit for $12 and the other kit (MPM, Tamiya, etc) would be $40. So I would buy the Revell kit knowing if I really messed it up it was only $12. The A-20 MPM and Revell kits are almost the same price. So it makes it more difficult to make up my mind. I am still leaning toward the Revell kit for ease of assembly. I do not want to throw the MPM kit against the wall if it gets too difficult.

Thanks for all of the comments. I will go with the Revell kit. Either the A-20C or the P-70. I will also get a set of aftermarket decals. WOW-The Revell A-20C on Ebay is $30+ with shipping!! The P-70 is a little less: $23 + shipping. Keep the comments coming! CCW

Hello again. I am researching to purchase a 1/72 A-20/Boston kit. I am just getting back into modelling, so keep this in mind with your answers. 😨 I am looking for a kit that goes together easily, minimum filler. Specific accuracy problems (rivets,raised/engraved panel lines, etc) are not a concern. Here is what I have found: Airfix: Early Bostons: Very old tool difficult to put together. Revell: Early Bostons/P-70: Old tool ok to put together. Matchbox: A-20G (my favorite version): Matchbox tooling medium difficulty. MPM: A-20G (my favorite version): New tooling. when I saw how many parts were in the box, I almost passed out. The Revell kit on Ebay is almost the same price as the new MPM. ($35). The Matchbox kit is more expensive than everything. ($40 plus). Let me hear your thoughts. CCW

Thanks Ed. I was afraid someone would say all of that. HAHA. I have done the decal film painted the color I need (a P-61 years ago). It worked OK but I had a lot of overlapping strips. Most of my problem is being impatient! Do you use Future before you paint? I also brush paint, will that make any complications? Thanks, CCW

I am just getting back into modelling and I am looking at building a 1/72 B-26. I am horrible at painting canopy frames. I can buy the Airfix kit but there is not a mask made for it. Or I can spend more (a lot more), and buy the Hasegawa kit that Eduard makes a mask for. I do not want to build the Airfix kit and get mad when I try to mask and paint the frames myself. All comments appreciated. CCW

Hopefully this question will make sense. It has to do with the age of the moulds/tools and when the kit was made. Let me use the following as an example. Airfix 1/72 Mosquito New tool 1957. If I purchased a kit from 1957 compared to a kit from 2013, would the older kit be in "better" condition than the 2013 kit since the mould has been used so much? I hope this makes sense. Thanks, Curt