Rob G

1996, so not really vintage. Very nice, well done.

Actually, this re-release probably won't affect the used market all that much, as the great majority of the used buyers are buying a vintage collectable, not a builder. The value's in the rarity of an early release, not the subject. Not that I'm a believer in 'collectable' kits - they're made to be built, and they should be!

That's all that needs to be said - we won't talk about the grammar, or the pointless ramble of the whole thing. A complete waste of bandwidth, basically.

Milky Ways.

I keep mine in the cloud (Dropbox, to be precise), so that it's available on my phone or a different computer or wherever, and it's always as up to date as I make it, wherever I view it.

All the good ones are going... 😕

I'm planning on a return visit, but prices in Blighty are amazingly horrendous. For everything. Of course, the low Aussie dollar doesn't help right now, but holy moly, have hotel prices gone insane or what? And let's not even talk about the cost of attending the show - it's approximately 25 times what we charge locally (and yes, I am well aware of all the reasons, on both sides of the argument, but that doesn't alter basic facts), and I can't even save money by joining IPMS, because I'd have to have an overseas membership, which is... horrendous. So, my question is - do I get on the big white bird and visit my country of birth this year, or not? Answers on a postcard...

Well...poo. I was hoping to have another look at her when I was there in November. That is most unwelcome news.

As the cool kids say, "ERMAGERHD, 956 bits". It's late, and I don't know if I should thank you or not (I have 2 956s to build), but thanks!

1. Lay the tape on your cutting mat and use a sharp blade to cut a new edge, don't rely on the factory edge. 2. Burnish the edge down well, paying special attention to concave areas and panel lines. 3. Apply a light coat of yellow and allow to cure before doing the black.

They're not that new(new ), been around since 2017ish. I believe that Nunu are generally well thought of, with tricky bits at time, but search out some builds of their kits on BM and some reviews elsewhere, and make up your own mind.

Ah. That's what I get for not reading what's been written. Numpty. Finding colour photos of that'un should be a lot easier than finding any photos of Birkin's version!

Tommy Thomason @Tailspin Turtle may be the authoritive voice.

I haven't read the thread, so I don't know if you're doing this BBB as an original one or a resto, but if it's an original I'd put money on the positive cable not being red. Certainly the 1964 Hillman Minx that I learned to drive in, as well as all the old Pommie cars that I had the misfortune to have to repair in the 1980s had 2 black cables coming off the battery, and it was up to you to get it right (also, they mostly had positive earth electrical systems, for some unholy reason - oh, yeah, generators. By Lucas. Shudder). But at least the wiring mostly made sense, unlike the Frenchies... I would submit that the 1920s design was the same, all black. Also, power leads should always be as short as practical, to avoid loss of oomph (technical term!) Oh, and braided cotton insulation, as is visible in the bottom picture - make it a matte finish.

That's umm... positively encouraged, almost compulsory, in fact. The only rule for KUTA is that your entry must be started before you join the GB.

in No. 10's cellar

And if anyone's interested, here's a video about the Reising. https://youtu.be/7AeXrnyv7RA?si=t2XIyUihieQhUhdn

the Beeb, licence paid

You must be easily pleased, as that's not a particularly pointy nose! (I jest, of course. Your wobblychopter is looking rather splendid.)

with a small operation

The best solution that I've discovered is a high MP DSLR, an LED light source and one of these - https://clifforth.co.uk/ I haven't yet set mine up, even though I've owned it for over 12 months. Time... I found out about it here https://youtu.be/hqSvTJ0s5MM?si=nMifhohIh5nsEm9b and it seems to be the best option short of paying to have it done, if you're willing to put the time in. If you don't own a DSLR and suitable lens, buying one will be an expense, but they're getting cheaper with the rapid rise of mirrorless cameras (and used ones are very cheap indeed). Might be worth thinking about.

Bah, all that faffing around with computerised cutters isnt required for simple circles. Buy yourself a 'compass cutter' from a stationer's, and some liquid masking agent from your hobby emporium of choice (I like the GSI Creos Mr Masking Sol R -smells good and doesn't eat paint). While there, buy a roll of wide Kabuki tape (the type that Tamiya sell). Lay a long piece of tape on your cutting mat (a good cleaning is suggested!) then set the compass cutter to the radius required. Cut your circle with care, leaving as much edge around the outside as possible. A good plan is to cut all the same sizes in one run, then reset for the next size. Cut the newly made masks into individual sections then gently peel the outside section of tape off the mat, being careful to minimise any stretching. Apply to the model as required. Add extra tape as required for masking around the outside, and burnish the edges. Spray colour of your choice - white if you want to brighten your red, then red. Allow the paint to set up a bit, then remove the mask and be amazed at your new skill. If you want the white surround, cut concentric circles, then apply the large outer circle mask, and spray white. When dry, add the ring (this bit can be a pain, but persevere, as it looks terrible when the circles aren't concentric), burnish the edges and COVER THE SEAM WITH LIQUID MASK. Most important, that bit, it stops paint bleeding through and making it messy. Spray red. Wait until the paint sets up, remove mask and be doubly amazed at your own awesomeness. Honestly easier to do than to type, and if I can make it work, anyone can. Compass cutters can be had from cheap to expensive- mine cost me $4.99 about 10 years ago and while not flash, it does the job. One day I'll get a good one...

it never goes away

instead of being useful

I do not have this book, but here's a review of sorts. https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/february-1980/50/british-homebuilt-aircraft-1920/