Rob G
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Posts posted by Rob G
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Better yet, pour the jalepenos AND their juice down the drain, where they belong (every drain needs cleaning, right?) and use the jar to store paint brushes. Or spare brass wood screws. Or something.
Rob, not a fan of capsaicin.
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Your best bet is to look up cockpit photos of the aircraft you wish to model. You've probably noticed the 3 point harness bits already - the Japanese did it differently to Western practice, and good references will be your saviour. On the instructions for their Japanese sets, Eduard suggest 'See your references for exact Airplane'.
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Interesting... usually the only parts that aren't painted on vehicles are intake and exhaust manifolds, exhaust systems and gearboxes (and they are sometimes), and minor alloy parts (carby, distributor, timing chain cover etc) Engines, diffs, driveshafts, springs - all painted, usually black, except for engines that are often black, but can be a signature colour for that manufacturer ie Ford blue, Chevy orange etc.
Basic rule seems to be - steel or iron, paint it. Aluminium alloy, leave it bare. There are exceptions, usually for racing cars, but civilian stuff is as above.
Which doesn't answer your lumpy paint problem. I don't use Vallejo, can't abide poster paints for modelling, but in my limited experience with them, that 'grit' thing seems to be an issue with that style of paint when brushed, as the Humbrol acrylics that come with Airfix starter kits tend to do that too. All I can suggest is ensuring that you've mixed the paints very well (good, energetic 2-3 minute shake), that they're thinned enough, and try to minimise how much brushing out you do. I'll assume that your brushes are clean, and of good quality and that the paint hasn't been frozen or left open (dropper bottles, I know, but still...) for too long.
The only other thing that suggests itself is to strain the paint, and try to eliminate the larger lumps, assuming that they are in there before you start painting. An old pair of the missus' tights stretched over the mouth of a jar might be of use, try to match the mesh size with what you want to remove, especially with metallics which have (as Casey says) flakey bits in them.
There are many threads online about this, some deeper diving may yield further, more useful.answers.
Good luck.
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who won't know diddly
(See what I did there?)
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, that, that, y'know... thing
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with the Samurai Cats
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Yeah... the parts aren't painted, they're moulded in their final colour a la Lego. In fact, they're basically Lego clones. From my experience with them, I would say that you'd need an automotive plastic primer as a first coat, to make the surface want to accept paint - if the plastic isn't ABS it's something similar. Then, you can do whatever you like with paint, but I'd be inclined to stay with automotive colours for the rest.
There won't ever be an unpainted plastic kit advanced version, because Lego.
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47 minutes ago, spruecutter96 said:
I must admit I've not looked into it, but I have a suspicion that the kit will be long out-of-production. Most manufacturers seem to only keep spares for the kits in their current catalogue (Airfix being an exception to this).
Thanks for the suggestion, Noel.
Chris.
Re-re-re-released last year, #12627 as a generic Pete 359. That said, Revell (and Italeri) use generic tyres, chassis and sometimes engines in their truck kits, so anything the same scale should do the job. AMT sell a boxed set of 1/25 truck tyres, Italeri do the same in 24th, and Auslowe have a selection of nice resin tyres as well.
Although if you can avoid the expense and get the original set from the previous owner, that would be the best bet
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Umm... first, you're in the wrong section of the forum for requests. Second, you don't have 100 posts on the forum, so you can't post in the 'Wanted' section anyway (forum rules). Third, I recommend deleting the text of your post and begging for forgiveness when the mods inevitably find your post and say rude things to you (do not argue with them, you will be given a holiday). Fourth, an email to Airfix will see you right for a minimal fee.
Friendly advice only, I'm not a mod.
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to Bondy's Jutland Parade
(Another one for Aussies of a certain age!)
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as anything, Beserk Warriors
(Older Aussies may get it)
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4 hours ago, dogsbody said:
I built a model of the Redstone/Explorer back in the late 60's, but it was a smaller scale than this one. I've looked around, to find who's kit it was, but no luck.
Does anyone here remember that kit?
Chris
Was it perhaps the Revell Mercury Redstone kit in 1/110 scale?
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-h1803-79-redstone--193719
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On 10/21/2023 at 4:42 AM, Neddy said:
I'm fascinated by the fact that it appears to be running both 6 volt and 12 volt electrical systems - I wonder what that could be for?
On a close look it seems as if the 2 batteries are connected together (next to the firewall), making 18v, and giving a larger reserve capacity. Either the electrics needed the extra voltage, or the car didn't have any on-board charging system (not unusual in a pure racing car) and the extra capacity was used to power the electrics for the race's duration. With the installed magneto ignition system, there was nothing but the instruments to run, so no need for a generator or alternator which would only rob engine power.
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People... you can't live with 'em, you can't hunt 'em down and shoot 'em...
(Actually, you can, but the wallopers tend to take a dim view of it!)
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20 minutes ago, bentwaters81tfw said:
Apparently the whole design is a bit naff.
Yeah, mebbe so, but they're a darn pretty little thing (like most twins).
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42 minutes ago, RAF4EVER said:
Anyone take any pictures at this show?
People do, yes. But they haven't this year, as it's not been run yet...
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those who are leaving
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didn't miss the beat
(Yes, the beat. Don't let me down...)
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that isn't very large
( @Biggles87 it's not really a humming-type tune... The band is Dio, if you want to look it up.)
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Diver is a song
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The problem with Mustang Sally as a topic for this GB is that the song isn't actually about a car, it's about the woman (named Sally) who owns the car (bought for her by the singer), and who now doesn't want anything to do with him, because she'd rather ride around in the car (make of that what you will, remembering the roots of rock'n'roll...). It could've been a VW Beetle and the woman would still be a right cow.
The original version of the song was released in '65, sung by the writer, Mack Rice.
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Of course there's the 1952 Vincent Black Lightning from Richards Thompson's song.
"Red hair and black leather, my favourite colour scheme."
And given the general age and cultural history of this forum, I am very, very surprised (and not a little disappointed!) that no-one's nominated for KAR 120C.
Won't be me, I don't do GBs, but have at it, lads!
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2 hours ago, bissyboat said:
and placed him inside the coxswain
It gets lonely out on patrol...
The whole wee thing is looking grand, sail on!
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Recommendations on paints for brush painting metal parts on cars and trucks?
in Paint
Posted
A slight miscommunication, methinks. When I wrote "Basic rule seems to be - steel or iron, paint it. Aluminium alloy, leave it bare." I was referring to the real thing, not models. Ferrous metals get painted, aluminium alloys, not often. When it comes to models, of course they must be painted, but to be prototypically correct, if it can rust on the real thing, it should be painted, not bare metal.
Hope that explains thing a bit better.
As for your first question, no, I've never had that gritty effect when brushing any other type of paint, only the true water-based acrylics (except for one very old bottle of Tamiya X-11 acrylic, which was not in very good shape and didn't brush at all well, and X-11 is famous for having flakes the size of pennies anyway).
I'm at a loss as to what else to suggest, sorry.