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Rob G

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Everything posted by Rob G

  1. Rob G
    Hmm... y'all know what I'm gonna say, doncha? I'll take Latvia. Again. Because I have many to build. Question. In the situation of Latvia, being as they were an unwilling part of the CCCP for so long, is a Soviet-built aircraft serving in Latvian national markings during that time period eligible? If not, no problems, but I'm sure similar questions will pop up over all those old vassal states. I'm probably going to do a Camel 2F.1. Get those Eduard kits built before Wingnut Wings releases theirs...
  2. Rob G
    Oooerrr missus, this might be a chance for a green Lightning. I'll be up for it. Sometime in 2018 I imagine?
  3. Rob G
    This may tempt me to buy a 48th Tomcat.
  4. Rob G
    They better do a triple size initial run of this one or there will be tears, methinks.
  5. Rob G
    Tailplane flaps = elevators. Those fine etched saws are best used by pulling them through the cut, not pushing. Saves a lot of that bending. I use a #15 blade in a Swann-Morton handle for getting into those weird places. Try a large chrmist for them, shouldn't be too expensive.
  6. Rob G
    Pax? A hostie friend of mine says they're called 'self loading cargo'... Or sometimes, 'that bunch of #@*+-$%& down the back.':D
  7. Rob G
    Re AMS. My esteemed colleagues have it almost right, they neglected to mention the need for an ever increasing (and ever more esoteric and thus expensive) library of reference books, manuals and paint samples. Advanced AMS sufferers often cannot ever finish a build due to that one small fact that isn't able to be settled for certain. As for dino teeth... I'd be looking at modern reptiles with a similar diet. Good luck with that, I can't think of any exclusively herbivorous modern reptile, with the possible exception of the Galapagos marine iguanas, and even there I'm not certain. Or you could just shrug, paint them a yellowy browny white and be done with it.
  8. Rob G
    Incidentally, there's a 72nd Revell Hunter on that internet auction site right now. I'd bid, but it's in Froggyland and 25 euros postage is a bit naff...
  9. Rob G
    Probably because Revell has stopped making them, just like their BaE 146 kits.
  10. Rob G
    What BK said, although I tend to wash my canopies in dishwashing liquid and warm water, then shake and dry with a clean tea towel. Then dip using tweezers. If it all goes pear shaped (which it will at times), a short soak in Windex or any cleaner with a decent amount of ammonia will wash the Pledge off, then you can have another go. Or 5 or 6 goes, like me, until you get it almost right.
  11. Rob G
    re PPPPP - once it's set up, it won't spontaneously dissolve unless you make a point of scrubbing at it. But if you leave it wet for too long, it will get a bit soft on the top and become easily marked/moved. A normal washing shouldn't do it any harm, but don't leave it to soak and dry it quickly. Sorry if I worried you. Electric paint mixers... I've never been brave enough to try one, I make enough mess doing it by hand! (As for the voices, I always listen to the ones that tell me what I want to hear...)
  12. Rob G
    Good going there Tony. I use Flickr, never had a problem, and their built-in editing tools are pretty slick too. And if I may suggest it, ditch that Piece Of Sprue (pat pend.) and get yourself a proper flat paint mixing stick - I have the Tamiya ones and they're excellent, although there's a lot of very similar ones in different packets around. Here's an eg http://www.bnamodelworld.com/u-star-ua-90018-paint-stirrer-2pcs-paint-tray-2pcs-30ml-plastic-dropper- the metal bits are the ones you want, you can chase around for just the stirrers if you don't want the rest. The flat surface makes a huge difference to how quickly and effectively the paint gets mixed. That Airfix tinlet is indeed a thing of beauty. I'm not sure if you should open it and share the smell, or keep it stored like a fine wine for 'that special occasion'.
  13. Rob G
    Airbrushes are easy to use, but like a lot of things, difficult to use well. Which is why I never finish anything. re the strong Anglo-Saxon - I'm pretty sure that anyone who can access this forum (or indeed any other) is well conversant with the words and most likely uses them themselves. Certainly the little blighters next door to me know and use them (and others) regularly, to their parents, who it must be admitted, used them to the nippers first... Anyone who thinks otherwise is sadly deluded, and that goes for a lot of the things we 'mustn't let the kids see'. But, seeing as this playground has rules, we'd best abide by them. One thing to watch with the PPPPP (too many Ps?) is that it's water soluble, even after drying, so it really needs to be used as the last filler before final wash and priming. That property does make it useful for areas that you don't want to risk with sandpaper though. I find that a stiff brush and a bit of wetness makes removal very controllable indeed.
  14. Rob G
    Ah, glad that the big monster arrived Hopefully AP didn't batter it too much. Enjoy it! The sorry tale of Kee Bird is just... grrr. DG is indeed a bit of a tool. Superforts are not a type that I particularly value, but any old aircraft saved is a good thing. This was a debacle. If the subject of recovering old aircraft interests you, I can recommend the book 'Hunting Warbirds' by Carl Hoffmann. Which you may already have in your library... I use bamboo skewers for all manner of modelling tasks - I find that they're tough and flexible, and can be easily shaped when required. A bit of wet and dry glued in place enables all manner of adjustments to take place...
  15. Rob G
    re plastic sanding needles - my LHS has some, I've not been impressed. The ones I bought are, I think, Delta brand, in the medium grit - the grit falls off and there's a mould seam along the full length of each side. Maybe one of the better brands might be better, I don't know. I'm so unimpressed that I can't find the packet of 6 that I know I've only used one out of... While I wait for a better solution to show up, rolled up wet and dry, a small round file and a #15 scalpel blade still work like they always have. I'm not sure where you usually shop, but Hobbyrama up in Stafford tend to keep all manner of weird and wonderful things. Failing a (longish) trip up there for you, I use BNA Model World's online shop quite a bit http://www.bnamodelworld.com/ Never had a problem, and they're quick. (But no sanding needles, I checked just now.) Or there's Frontline Hobbies, who I also deal with, and they have them. http://tinyurl.com/zzxpqfnTry them, they may work better for you than they have for me. Your little monster is progressing - here's to the painting stage!
  16. Rob G
    Dead silent - bottled gas from whoever supplies it locally. Oxygen, argon or CO2. If you go the argon or CO2 route, make sure you have ventilation for 'just in case'. You'll need a regulator and fittings, but whoever supplies the gas should be able to sort that for you. Given the pressure in those bottles, a medium sized one should last for quite a while.
  17. Rob G
    I managed to score a Matchbox P-51D the other week, with decals in good condition, so I'm prepared for this. Hopefully, I'll have caught up some of the backlog before this kicks off, as I've decided to not start any more GBs until I've make a dent in the shelf of didn't-get-that-one-finished-either. Have to do something about it, as it's depressing to look at.
  18. Rob G
    That photo... what would be the likelihood of 'elf and safety letting the Tank Regt do that with Chally 2s today?
  19. Rob G
    I'm at about that level now, despite being 'back in the hobby' for over 15 years. Looks good to me mate.
  20. Rob G
    'added a fake screw head...)' I'm... saddened. See A fake screw head indeed... sheesh. What's the world coming to, I ask you. Once again, I resort to mock outrage to cover my awe and jealousy - sterling work. Edit: I popped over and had a look at the tutorial on LSP, and I note the query about turning long thin pieces. If you feel able, please let the poster know that a device known as a 'follower' or a 'follow rest' is used to support long, thin work, which is (very) basically a device that follows the cutting head and supports the lathed material from behind while the cutter does its job. There's a pile of info to be found via Google on the subject (lots of YouTube videos) - like many things, it's a lot deeper than it appears at first blush.
  21. Rob G
    All this, and I have trouble making two halves of a fuselage (with alignment pins!) fit together without issues. When you get this thing done, I may have to come and visit so that I can see it for myself. Fantastic work sir!
  22. Rob G
    That's well fit. Sadly, my current builds don't look as good as your original, so i doubt that I'll be emulating your approach to old kits.
  23. Rob G
    Anthony, incoming PM.
  24. Rob G
    Yeah, that'll do it. No worries, hope it helps.
  25. Rob G
    Did it show up?
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