Rob G
-
Posts
3,693 -
Joined
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Media Demo
Posts posted by Rob G
-
-
Ahh, the old 'rules gotcha', happens to us all from time to time. Have fun with the stash diving!
-
(I'll jump in even though I'm not a mod - no offence meant.)
It's not too late until the GB closes Rob S. Rules are on the relevant page here
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/568-airliner-iii-group-build/if there's any questions about suitability of the subject etc, ask the mods here.
Start a thread and dive in!- 1
-
Sorry to hear you may not be able to Join us, Rob. If I recall you where thinking of some civvie aircraft? I'm planning the same so would be great if you can join in. However, like you there's a lot going on so I completely understand.
All the best
As I recall, the civvie heliclopterer was going to be a Chinook for the Helicopter GB. This one was possibly going to be a pair of Special Hobby Cobras, or maybe a Huey from somewhere. Still, it ain't over 'till the fat lady sings, so never say never!
-
Yeah well... There's every chance that I'll be sitting this one out, despite having subjects for it. Too much on the stove as it is, models as well as life.
- 1
-
We should get the ball rolling on this one shortly.
NOOOOOO! Not yet, there's so much else to finish!
Well chaps. Only 3 days to go.
Matt.
Utter nonsense, this one doesn't start until August 2016. Oh, wait... damn.
- 4
-
All 3 greys are (sort-of kind-of) on. Some touching up (ooh err Matron) to do, then the masking can come off and the radome can be masked off for whatever grey goes on that. Hopefully, Thems As Knows won't be too put out by my attempt.
After the radome, decals and dangly bits.That deadline is looking like it's beaten (said he, ignoring hubris yet again.)
- 1
-
It's quite possible that you did a better job of initial assembly than I did. Looking at your photos, I think (from faded memory, so don't believe a word of it) that the big issue for me was that rear seam that cuts across the fuselage - as I recall I couldn't get it to lay down where it needed to be. Hence the filler. Maybe.
As a matter of (possible) interest, OO-TNT actually used to belong to a Piper Seneca, and hasn't been reissued as far as I can tell. EC-FZE seems to be kosher.
-
My favourite is a caustic based oven cleaner, the cheaper the better. Spray, then leave in a sealed container for a while and scrub under warm running water.
- 1
-
In a rare frenzy of modelling activity, the white F-16 is now one shade of grey. Photos have been taken, but I can't be bottomed adding them to Flikr and going through all the posting motions - I'll do a bulk photo update when I have something worth showing off.
Here's hoping I'll make the deadline...
- 1
-
Good to see some 146 love. I have one on the workbench that's migrated from the shelf of doom - it's a nice kit, but beware the fit of the wing to the fuselage, it can be fussy. Mine was done many moons ago and as I recall I used a bucket of filler instead of taking the time to align it properly (we were young once, and foolish). As a result, mine's a bit bodgy. Still, I've got 3 more in the stash (and chasing more at a reasonable price), so I can always redeem myself eh? For this one, I chose the Australian Air Express option, as they were regular visitors to the local.
If I may suggest, mask and paint the control surfaces instead of fighting the kit decals. The decals are very good (designed by DACO and printed by someone in Italy who isn't Revell, yay), but the big silver ones are a beast to get to lay down - all the rest of my builds will be painted and masked, less hassle and a big saving in decal solution in the long run I think.
- 2
-
If you're concerned about accuracy, build the accurate ones, if you just want the relaxation of a hobby, build the ones that appeal to you. Time spent relaxing is never 'wasted', whatever your particular time waster may be. Some like to go fishing, some golf, some build old kits.In the end, if you're happy with the way the time was spent, who cares what other people think about the quality of the kit you used?
-
Ah, but will it be accurate? No point getting excited until we find out how bad it is.
-
<Waving hand> Ooh! Ooh! I know this one!
Paint roller. Great idea Sgt!
- 1
-
... sshhh... Don't tell everyone, but I've got undercoat on this thing. Tamiya white primer, rubbed down with 4/0 steel wool, and hopefully I'll get first colour on it tomorrow (if we can dignify grey by calling it a color).
Photo when I get my laptop back together.
Remember, mum's the word...
- 4
-
I had wondered if they'd been painted to Brit specs in the US, but didn't want to mention it, just in case. To my eye, that landscape looks English (but I won't argue over it, I'm not all that familiar with large swathes of the US ) On my colour profiled monitor, the undersides are a slightly blue light grey. Topsides are dk green and sand and roundels appear to be correct(ish), if a little dark. All of which means precisely nothing, given that we don't know the provenance of the photo.
-
It's actually quite a lovely kit and I'd buy a couple of them if I could find them at prices I could justify. I built one many moons ago and still have it hanging around somewhere.
You're doing a fine job there, keep up the good work!
- 1
-
Technically yes, I saw it (or so me Mam tells me). I was 2 1/2, so... yeah. I have always had a terrible memory and don't recall much of what has happened to me or in the world at large as a rule. Maybe I'm a figment of someone's imagination?
Or maybe none of us actually saw what we thought we saw...
- 2
-
First rule of the plastic jungle... never trust the colour in a colour photo. There is absolutely no way to know how well it's been reproduced in any of the varied incarnations of its life, and I'd bet that your monitor doesn't show the colours accurately either. Which is partly the monitor, partly the graphics card, partly your browser (use Firefox on PC to remove that variable, or Safari if you're saddled with a Mac.)
Best advice, use written references whenever possible (preferably from official sources), referring to photos only for patterns and general arrangements. When it comes to modelling, I'm not a colour fanatic, TLAR* is close enough for me, but for those who are, colour photos are not a good reference.Colour reproduction and me...
*TLAR - That Looks About Right.
EDIT: A bit of Googling tells me that the Brits only had 5 of these most unprepossessing aircraft, used by the naval unit at A&AEE Boscombe Down from Jan 1943 for testing. I'd imagine that any colours applied would be to whatever standard was current for aircraft under test at that time. Where's Edgar when you need 'im? :/ Sorry, can't help with the Buffalo.
- 1
-
Following. I have 2 big Airfix Javelins in the stash, one day I'll get to them. Great job on that harness, wish I had that much artistic ability. Guess I'll have to stick with Eduard's version.
- 1
-
Washes and pigments... I DO NOT get along with either of them. Which is why all my models look like Oh well.
Looks good thus far Enzo, keep it up.- 1
-
haha you know you have nothing better to do!!
Actually, I do. Which is why I get so little modelling done.
-
I'm slowly changing over from Humbrol to Gunze, simply because of issues with the quality of Humbrol's product. Haven't had a bad experience with Gunze yet, and I much prefer it to Tamiya's acrylics. If I could get PollyScale I'd use them, but...
-
For the love of Pete... STOP IT RICH!
I have a Pavla Vought F6U-1 Pirate in the deep stash. There is now a reason (excuse?) to dig it out and build it.
<sigh> Add muggins to the list. This'll be 2018, right?
-
And it's just a tad warm at night when the bugs get hungry in brightly lit rooms/conservatories
LOL.
3D Printed 1/72 Carden Lloyd Mk.VI Tankette
in AFV WWI & Interwar
Posted
3D printing is costed according to the type of material, the volume of material in the product, the time it will take to print, the time it will take to clean the support matrix away and the physical size of it, as smaller products allow them to put more things on the platen to be printed at one go - if the print head is moving over the platen, it may as well be covering as much area as possible. The only limits to the finished size of an object is the size of the platen and how deep your wallet is!
If there's something you particularly want but it's in the wrong scale, send a message to the designer, and there's every chance he'll (she'll) be able to resize it for you and put it into the shop. The designers are people like us, and they want to sell their stuff - once it's designed, it's not that hard to resize it in software (within limits, depending on how well it was drawn) and submit the new plans. I've had one thing done by Shapeways (I should make a move and get that thing going one day) and I know that at least one other member here has products in there as well.
I can actually forsee a future where there are no model shops as such - you'll buy an e-template online, which will get you a one-off code to allow use of it from the company (or sole trader!) you want to do business with, then get it printed at your local 3D printshop. Or printshops may spring up that have access to many templates for many things, and you'll pay them direct. And no doubt there'll be pirates selling hacks to allow you to reuse your template at home or through dodgy online printers...