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About Jase

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  • Birthday 08/26/1970

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  1. At this point it is worth pointing out that this is a plank on frame build which is more difficult than a plank on bulkhead mild as it is more fragile. interestingly the rail inserted inside the frames on the instructions picture shows that it has broken and been repaired. it is very fragile and has broken on me 6 times now. so on with the build next stage is fairing (shaping) the bow and stern frames to get the shape correct for the planks. I use Permalinks-Grit tools for this task its much quicker than sanding and they do not clog, I have both corse and fine and hade them some
  2. Ok on with the build. the major resin parts to be fitted are cleaned up next and checked for fit. it was at this point I decided to change my plans a little. The kit comes with two options for the ventilators the more common one and the later version used on just two ships, one of which is HMS Liverpool, the ship I planned to model. problem is I don't like the look of the late version which is just a box so I have changed the build to HMS Southampton. all the major resin parts gives you a feel for the complexity of the structure. I removed the main gun barrel and r
  3. Following with intrest as this is probably my next plastic build Jase
  4. If you have £750 and like ocean liners then this may be for you https://www.oldmodelkits.com/ss-normandie-ocean-liner-model-kit.php Jase
  5. New 1:200 scLe Titanic from trumpeter bow is incorect Around the anchor i notice
  6. The etch and other aftermarket upgrades are certainly making a big difference to this old kit, following with interest jase
  7. I can highly recommend the Caldercraft kit of the Scooner Pickle as a good first build, its a hily accurate kit with very detailed instructions and plans its a good 6 - 12 month project that has a bit of everything masts yards simple rigging and an introduction to making shrouds I will post some pictures
  8. Sometimes I sit at my desk and find I am just not in the mood for what is sat in front of me. I have been working on Plastic and resin kits exclusively for 18 months now which has lead to a growing need to get some relief from a wood kit again. Not wanting to tackle anything to large as I plan to get stuck into a much larger wood kit once I have a couple of other builds done. Endevours Longboat by Artasina Latina fits the bill nicely. Now as a rule I don't buy Artasina Latina kits as they are not being on accuracy, but they do have very good instructions and are generally good
  9. An aged propeller should be dull with a touch of verdigris. if you google verdigris on ship propellers you will see what I mean. I would suggest a wash so that there is a slight evidence of verdigris around the blade bases hope that helps
  10. Hi All, Looking to add an Admiral Graf Spee kit to my stash. Ideally 1:350, but would consider bigger. Just wondered if people had a view on most accurate kit, or best kit to avoid? any help appreciated Jase
  11. Looking great, you may want to add a touch of green to the propellers if your after an aged look
  12. Watching with intrest as i have this in my stash The kit method for bending and twisting the planks is not the best. Its a very slow method that has a tendancy to open up the woodgrain. Its far quicker to hold the plank over the steam of a kettle, you can form a curve or a twist in seconds and the wood is good to hold adhesive stright away Jase
  13. I recently purchased Flyhawks 1:700 scale HMS Prince of Wales as much out of curiosity as anything. I have some of their etch sets which I have found to be extremely detailed and wondered how their full kit would stand up against the brand I usually purchase at this scale, Tamiya. So lets start with stating the obvious, the Tamiya kit I am using as the comparison (the KGV kit) is a mid 80's release and so I do expect the age to show. Normaly I add etch to a kit to bring it up to standard so to make it a fair comparison I will include the the Eduard etch set as part of the compari
  14. Bit more progress on this... some test fitting is required of the stern deck section. the stern deck beneath it needs to be pointed and weathered prior to fitting it. some minor work is needed on the join prior to painting the decks lower hull and base have been masked off for protection and then the whole build so far has been airbrushed using Life Colour Light Compass ghost grey, which is the corresponding match to the Humbrol colour listed in the instructions.
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