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About Jase

  • Birthday 08/26/1970

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  1. At this point it is worth pointing out that this is a plank on frame build which is more difficult than a plank on bulkhead mild as it is more fragile. interestingly the rail inserted inside the frames on the instructions picture shows that it has broken and been repaired. it is very fragile and has broken on me 6 times now. so on with the build next stage is fairing (shaping) the bow and stern frames to get the shape correct for the planks. I use Permalinks-Grit tools for this task its much quicker than sanding and they do not clog, I have both corse and fine and hade them some years now. Once this was done I ran a bead of adhesive along all the joints just to add strength. Next task is to plank the hull. This kit is double planked, I recommend getting a kit with double planking if you have not done a wooden ship before as first planking slows you to get away with things the second planking won't, like gaps. So these are the tools I primarily use other than clamps but I will discuss them as I go. Brass nails Nail pusher, I recommend one with an adjustable stop pencil steel rule micro saw nail pulling tool micro plane medium grit sandpaper In addition a clamp or vice for holding the wood strips wile shopping them. we have to bend the planks to the shape of the hull before fitting them, there are a number of ways to do this, mechanical plank benders, electric plank benders, soaking in water but for me stem is by far the easiest and quickest method. take a look at this video I did for my HMS pickle project that explains how this is done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQQNlNPw1J8 Jase
  2. Ok on with the build. the major resin parts to be fitted are cleaned up next and checked for fit. it was at this point I decided to change my plans a little. The kit comes with two options for the ventilators the more common one and the later version used on just two ships, one of which is HMS Liverpool, the ship I planned to model. problem is I don't like the look of the late version which is just a box so I have changed the build to HMS Southampton. all the major resin parts gives you a feel for the complexity of the structure. I removed the main gun barrel and replaced with a brass aftermarket version purchased through Atlantic models. then everything was primed ready for paint. The boot line was then painted in, I used Tamiya semi gloss black for this job, I got a small amount of seep but nothing I cannot tidy up later. At this point I felt it made sense to get the deck and hull decals on before I start building up the structure with all the etched brass and whatnot. the kit suppled decals are great quality went don well. The exclusion circles around the armament are not included in the kit and were purchased seperatley again from Atlantic models. The main mast was the first item to be painted and fitted. This is because a small air bubble had broken and I wanted to fill it once fixed in place. the mast was painted once fitted. I have used Lifcolour satin black on the mast, three coats needed. the forward armament was also installed at this point. As you will see in the photo above the kit provides decals for the bridge windows, its a good solution. The domes have been given a first coat of Insignia white, they will need another. More soon. Jase
  3. Following with intrest as this is probably my next plastic build Jase
  4. If you have £750 and like ocean liners then this may be for you https://www.oldmodelkits.com/ss-normandie-ocean-liner-model-kit.php Jase
  5. New 1:200 scLe Titanic from trumpeter bow is incorect Around the anchor i notice
  6. The etch and other aftermarket upgrades are certainly making a big difference to this old kit, following with interest jase
  7. I can highly recommend the Caldercraft kit of the Scooner Pickle as a good first build, its a hily accurate kit with very detailed instructions and plans its a good 6 - 12 month project that has a bit of everything masts yards simple rigging and an introduction to making shrouds I will post some pictures
  8. Sometimes I sit at my desk and find I am just not in the mood for what is sat in front of me. I have been working on Plastic and resin kits exclusively for 18 months now which has lead to a growing need to get some relief from a wood kit again. Not wanting to tackle anything to large as I plan to get stuck into a much larger wood kit once I have a couple of other builds done. Endevours Longboat by Artasina Latina fits the bill nicely. Now as a rule I don't buy Artasina Latina kits as they are not being on accuracy, but they do have very good instructions and are generally good kits for beginners and intermediate builders. I actually won this in a competition on another forum that I seldom visit these days as it spends more time reposting the newspapers that anything to do with modelling! As this is my first wood kit build on this forum I will take a bit more time on my way of working, as we all do things differently.. One of the nice things about AL kits, is that the box art is always the actual kit, so you know what your getting. The box content is the usual mix in an AL kit a mix of good quality woods some ply parts, pre stitched sails and a box with the thread, pins, cast metal parts and other bits n bobs required for the build. The build starts with the removal and clean up of the keel frame. It's worth flicking through the instructions to establish if any of this part will be visible on the finished model. After removing from the ply sheet the tabs were smoothed flat with a small file. The for mast brace (just behind the number 2 on the pic below) will be visible on the end kit so this area git sanded with fine sandpaper to remove the laser burn and the open grain of the wood. The various ribs go in next, clean up followed the same process, there is a small part of each rib visible once the build is complete, so again they got some extra attention. each part was dry fitted prior to gluing in place, I am using Aliphatic wood glue. I am also using a magnetic board as a keel jig to help ensure the ribs get set at a perfect 90 degrees angle to the keel frame. Once the Ribs are in there are two stern formers and 4 bow formers to be added. The assembly is then moved to my keel jig before further building. There is some ply parts to be added next, these include a false deck, forward and aft bulkheads and rails, these all need to be fixed in place to add rigidity to the Frame before we fair the hull. To help keep the rails in the correct place while the glue dries I used some mini pegs as clamps, these have the advantage of not damaging the wood. Jase
  9. An aged propeller should be dull with a touch of verdigris. if you google verdigris on ship propellers you will see what I mean. I would suggest a wash so that there is a slight evidence of verdigris around the blade bases hope that helps
  10. Hi All, Looking to add an Admiral Graf Spee kit to my stash. Ideally 1:350, but would consider bigger. Just wondered if people had a view on most accurate kit, or best kit to avoid? any help appreciated Jase
  11. Looking great, you may want to add a touch of green to the propellers if your after an aged look
  12. Watching with intrest as i have this in my stash The kit method for bending and twisting the planks is not the best. Its a very slow method that has a tendancy to open up the woodgrain. Its far quicker to hold the plank over the steam of a kettle, you can form a curve or a twist in seconds and the wood is good to hold adhesive stright away Jase
  13. I recently purchased Flyhawks 1:700 scale HMS Prince of Wales as much out of curiosity as anything. I have some of their etch sets which I have found to be extremely detailed and wondered how their full kit would stand up against the brand I usually purchase at this scale, Tamiya. So lets start with stating the obvious, the Tamiya kit I am using as the comparison (the KGV kit) is a mid 80's release and so I do expect the age to show. Normaly I add etch to a kit to bring it up to standard so to make it a fair comparison I will include the the Eduard etch set as part of the comparison, this also brings the price tag about level at £35. The Flyhawks kit at £35 is the fabled as the deluxe edition which has extras to the standard kit. Interestingly it is stated to be battle of the Denmark strait fit, thus as New. First thing to note is that the box is considerably bigger, this is not some form of marketing ploy, the box is rammed with parts. First Item out of the box is a print that has some history on the back. that's followed by instructions, decals, etch bag after bag of sprue a plastic box of parts a metal box and weight and the hull sections. Unlike the Tamiya kit there is an option for full hull as well as waterline. comparing the two hulls length and width is the same but the detail on the Fyhawk hull is much nicer with the panel lines shown. the armour belts are different lengths though so one of them is wrong! [/url Same is true when we compare decks the tamiya planking runs the full length of the deck where as the Flyhawks deck has plank lengths. not sure if the pattern is correct but it will look good under paint. The level of detail carried on the Flyhawks deck is superb making the Tamiya deck look a bit Barron. The Tamiya kit comes with two large sprue, Flyhawk have lots of smaller sprue, there is more sprue material than part material. The first item spotted was the crane, very nice it is too, this would look great without modification, but an etch replacement is supplied. Where as the Tamiya crane (bottom pick) is essential to replace. [ Now I have always accepted that Tamiya's turrets are good for the scale, but Flyhawk blows them out of the water excuse the pun, the detail is exquisite. interestingly Flyhawk have the barbette and the turret floor as a single moulding. There is a stack of 4 tiny sprue that have some tiny parts on them such as deck guns. nice detail but actually the barrels look a bit chunky compared to Tamiya equivalents (bottom pic) It is with the superstructure that the Flyhawk kit really begins to stand out, the level of detail is breath taking and where the holding prices may have limited detail they do the panel separately rather than compromise. The kamiya kit needs aftermarket etch as it is almost bereft of any detail and where some definition is present its a none descript lump. The hanger is another area where both kits have internal detail but it is definitely not correct on the Tamiya kit where as the Flyhawk offering looks much more authentic The more you look at the kit the better it becomes, one very nice feature is the two funnel stacks which are moulded as a complete item with what looks like the correct rivet pattern. no more sanding the assembly and losing the shape!! The funnel caps are ok even passable but still on the thick side. all in all they far surpass the Tamiya funnels. Again I have always considered the Tamiya ships boats good for the scale, but again Flyhawk have raised the bar a notch or two. the detail is oversize but the impression is still better; especially when you compare the admirals barge. The sprue keep on coming, I have built 1:350 kits with fewer parts! The Flyhawk mast is not so good dont get me wrong it looks the part other than it is very warped, due to how thin it is, this will have to be replaced and I believe there is a superset mast set the Flyhawk sell. Although the tamiya mask is slightly heavy yo know it won't mind the rigging where I suspect Flyhawks may just give some moment, brass masts would be better but Tamiya takes the prize for the injection moulded masts (Last pic). Flyhawk include a seaplane, Tamiya don't bother. the detail of the plane is great and should look the part once painted. * Instructions are good if not a bit fussy. lots of sub assembly diagrams help with the huge number of parts. not as easy to follow as tamiya instructions but they are in colour with plenty of detail. The Flyhawks kit has some decals, couple of white ensigns and decals for the aircraft. given that this kit can be full hull I dont think it would have broken the bank to add displacement markings for the hull its a shame they are not there. but then Tamiya don't supply any decals. That compares the basic kits, but as I said I would not build a Tamiya kit without etch and, also as I said earlier, this is the ultimate Flyhawk set which comes with etch, so lets look at the etch next. Eduard supply all the railings you need plus various ladders and parts that improve the surface detail along with a number of replacement deck guns across two small frets. Flyhawk supply three frets of etch that also cover the railings and ladders as well as replacing some of the kit parts and the crane. there is a propeller for the sea plane and anchor chain and replacement funnel caps the finest of the etch is apparent particularly on the inclined ladders that really look correct, an achievement at this scale. But Flyhawk do not stop there Inside the small plastic box are twelve bags contains replacement brass barrels and an assortment of other tiny brass and resin parts such as cable reels and mushroom vents - I will say that again bras and resin mushroom vents, at 1:700 scale!!! I hope they put spares in as these are microscopic. Finally there is a metal box that contains the coat of arms for Prince of Wales that can be screwed onto a display base. Conclusion The Flyhawk kit is very comprehensive with excellent detail. when you consider the price tag it stands up well to buying a Tamiya Kit and adding barrels and etch. may only criticism is the mast that is bent. I am looking forward to building this kit and at this stage would certainly look to buy another Flyhawk kit in the future Jase
  14. Bit more progress on this... some test fitting is required of the stern deck section. the stern deck beneath it needs to be pointed and weathered prior to fitting it. some minor work is needed on the join prior to painting the decks lower hull and base have been masked off for protection and then the whole build so far has been airbrushed using Life Colour Light Compass ghost grey, which is the corresponding match to the Humbrol colour listed in the instructions. The decks have been brush painted, again with the corresponding Life Colour paint Grey RLM 75. currently two coats in will need a third. Jase
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