Jump to content

Tyrrhenus

Members
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Tyrrhenus

  1. I've just finished the assembly of the engine of Meng's ww1 british Mk V Male tank (a gorgeous kit really) and I painted it black as per instructions. Now I am aware that the interiors will be practically invisible once the kit is finished but they are so nicely detailed that I think I will keep them out the beast as a secondary display. Hence the need to enliven a bit the engine so that it's not just a chunk of black. Problem is I don't know anything on how engines and their components should be painted and weathered. Needing some help
  2. Yep, that helps. Although I'm thinking of using a sand colour instead of xf-21. Maybe just buff.. will make a few tests. Anyway thanks for the links mate
  3. Hiya fellow modellers, I need to know which tamiya colours or mixes of Tamiya colours are good for french afvs. I just ordered Meng's R35 kit and... well, eventually I'll have to paint it! I know that Hataka and other brands sell "french afvs" sets but if possible I'd rather stick to Tamiya
  4. what do you mean with "polishing my gloss coats"? Pardon my newbie ignorance
  5. I really love it. Not only because it's an excellent build, but also because the MC202 is among my favourite planes of WW2. At the moment I'm focused on AFVS but when I will try a plane, the Macchi 202 will be my choice.
  6. I happen to have the Ultimate thinner and a crappy model I use for experiments, so when the varnish is delivered, I'll run a couple of tests: half model with unthinned varnish and half with thinned varnish. I really need to "matt" my StuG, which is shiny despite the humbrol matt varnish (that didn't do much on the previous gloss coat)
  7. Does it need to be thinned?
  8. Tyrrhenus

    Rivets

    What tool do you suggest for making rivets?
  9. Okay, that's good advices. I really like the idea of a tractor or artillery. I'll probably order a couple of kits https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/trumpeter-135-soviet-su-152-self-propelled-howitze/ and an artillery piece (I will decide which one after having given a look around).
  10. I made a few experiments and tow cables made of twisted copper wire do look realistic. But just gave a look to Accurate Armour site.... great place indeed. Thank you for the suggestion
  11. Hiya guys, in the last months, while starting my "career" in scale model building, I've been collecting articles from the Internet and magazines looking for better ways to replicate - using Tamiya acrylics - german and soviet afvs colours ww2, my favourite period. What follows is everything I found so far. Hope you folks find this helpful, also for further experiments etc...... if you use other mixes, just post your recipes here Disclaimer: of these mixes I've only tried the German dunkelgelb (xf-59+xf-57). Which I like it much. I cannot judge the other mixes. Use them at your own risk 4BO for WW2 Soviet afvs xf-61 (6) + xf-5 (4) + xf-8 (4) + xf-13 (1) xf-13 (3) + xf-5 (2) ------------ highlights: add some xf-12 xf-13 ----------- highlights: xf-13 (3) + xf-4 (1/2) + xf-2 (1/2) xf-67 (3) + xf-4 (1) + xf-2 *** WW2 German afvs Dunkelgrau (7021) xf-63 (3) + xf-60 (1.5) xf-63 (8.5) + xf-18 (1) + a few drops of xf-15 (double the amount of xf-15 for the highlights) Olivgrun (6003) xf-58 xf-58 + xf-21 (lighter shade) Dunkelgelb (7028) xf-60 (4) + xf-59 (1) xf-60 + xf-57 xf-57 xf-59 + xf-57 (highlights: add xf-55. Shadows: xf-72 Shokobraun (8017) xf-64 Gelbbraun (8020) xf-60 + xf-59 Red Oxyde/primer xf-64 + xf-7 xf-64
  12. Hi guys, I'm about to finish my second model since I started with this fantastic hobby (a deep growing passion, I would say: I'm totally hooked) and it's time to think of what to build next. I'd like to build a soviet tank (not a T-34, already built) from WW2. What would be an interesting build? Which brand would you then suggest, keeping in mind that although I'm a newbie, I'm not afraid of trying something difficult. I like challanges.
  13. I like it. The only thing I would fix are the seams too visible in the jerrycans
  14. It's a nice idea, but I don't have old bike gear cable. I'll put this idea somewhere in my brain to remember the day I stumble upon some old bike
  15. The problem with weathering is to know where to stop. I actually had in mind to apply less chipping than I eventually did. That's why I'll apply only a light weathering. It'll be one of my next models to have the rolled-down-the-hill look
  16. Ah cool. I'll give it a try using 0.3mm (my StuG is 1:35) and see how it looks. Thanks Andy
  17. I have a lot of copper wire from 0.3mm to 0.9mm, so I was hoping to use that. But what I meant is: how do you actually do it? What is the technique? Sorry, maybe my English is not that good
  18. Using copper wire (or similar), how do you make tow cables? I don't want to use the horrible pieces of string from the kit I'm building, a StuG III Ausf G, of which you can see pics in the Afvs wip section.
  19. Painted the tools and the machine gun, and added the spare wheels and a small lenght of spare tracks beside the gun mantlet. Tomorrow, if I find some time, I will install the tracks, already painted and given some pigments. They don't look too bad so I'm happy with them. Once the tracks are in place, I will seal all with satin varnish then I'll add some streaks, a few speckles of rust here and there and not much else. I want to avoid "overdoing it"... About the markings: I'm thinking to paint them instead of using the decals. If I do a good job doing that, my hope is that they'll look better painted than just decals. I know that will make things a bit more complicated, but it's not I have to paint a Caravaggio, right? ​
  20. Thank you guys The chipping took ages but I enjoyed every minute of it. I was about to use chipping fluid but then I thought that using just a paintbrush would give me more control... and it's a good way to learn something more. I'll post pics of next steps
×
×
  • Create New...