Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

297 Excellent

About Marco1965

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 25/01/1965

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    Latin American Airplanes, diverse others.

Recent Profile Visitors

271 profile views
  1. I realized in time that the Eduard PE instructions for the machinegun sights are wrong... The ring sight should be at the back of the barrel, the pin sight at the front. Fixed them, painted the machinegun gun metal, and glued it in position with CA. As I intend to show my B5N2 still on the carrier deck, with the crew about to board it, the machinegun should be in the stowed position. Airfix provides the machinegun both in stowed and deployed positions, nice touch. And that is it, cockpit ready. Marco
  2. I had been expecting this kit in 1/72 for so long (as I am expecting a new release Aichi "Val" and a P-36), Airfix's offering is as good as I would have expected of a new release. It has been described several times already, so I'll just say that it is beautiful OOB, I like all the armament options and canopy positions that it offers. But might improve with some PE (I got EDU73536, which has one pre-colored fret and another in natural metal). Only disappointment is the absence of a second 500pd bomb, needed if you want to represent EI-311 with the external ordnance used during the Pearl Harbor attack of 2 x Type 98 500pd bombs. Curiously, the kit includes the second rack for a second bomb, the proper holes under the fuselage for it, but no bomb. Arresting kook was broken. Ok, anyway, I started assembling the kit couple days ago, PE makes work much slower, as tiny bits are provided small details. Cockpit is really well detailed, there is more detail there than information at hand to check for accuracy. I used Forrest Green + White (80/20) for the interior, and weathered with water color wash and drybrush. Perfect match for the precolored parts. PE parts really improve the details in the cockpit, specially the seats, instrument panels, and others. The Type 97 MG got some PE bits which make it look much better. Will be in the stowed position anyway, but still will be able to see some detail. The cockpit almost finished. I only drilled open the structural holes on the floor. I guess there was no extreme weathering at the start of the war, so I kept it quite light. Have to be careful with the radio box, the PE part is significantly taller than the plastic part, and it is correctly indicated in the instructions to move it to the left so that it will fit under the fuselage halves. PE seat looks very nice with all those structural holes (The plastic one provided in the kit has the holes simulated, but you would need to drill them open). Really crowded, will look good under the open canopy option. The Sakae 11 as provided is very nice, two separate rows of cylinders, exhaust ring and exhaust decently molded. I painted it steel and washed with Panel Line Accent Color (Tamiya). PE Ignition ring was the only added extra. It surprises me how scarce references for this type of a/c are, it is a pitty (at least I can't find them). And that is it, I thought that it would be a "long weekend project", but it is proving to take longer, enjoying it a lot though! Marco
  3. Busy days, short time for modeling... Trumpeter had the great idea of including the stern eagle as photoetched part, and althought the PE part lacks some "eagle's body thickness", I think that it looks perfect for the scale! In the reference pictures, it seems like the eagle had not been painted, thus I will only apply a wash to the PE. The swastika (sort of) is provided as a separate part which I will add later on. Marco
  4. I have been eagerly waiting to get to this part, painting the white "waves" on the side of the hull. The waves were painted I don't know exactly how many days before the Battle of the River Plate, but not really that long before, the Graf Spee can be seen with the fake second turret and funnel without and with painted waves. Crudely painted while on high seas, the waves were not symmetric, and the water significantly deteriorated the lower part of the front waves, evident in all the pictures taken at Montevideo. And I wanted to simulate that deterioration. I masked the profile of the waves using thin strips of Tamiya's yellow masking tape, following the openings on the hull as reference for size and proportions (they follow moooore or less the real spacing, but I don't have a better reference). Then I "chopped" a thin strip of masking tape until the edge was irregular, and masked the bottom part of the waves, little bit above the black (anthracite) flotation line. I then airbrushed white (later while weathering I will tone it down), and voila! I am quite satisfied with the results! Marco
  5. I hadn't realized that the stern ancho chain capstan was so poorly molded in the kit. This is how the capstan should look like: And this is the one from the kit, a "peg" instead of a capstan: As I did not have any capstan available, I decided to fix the "peg". I sanded it shorter, issued the strips from Evergreen plastic strips, and glued a cap. It looks reasonable now: And after masking the main deck, started painting the hull sides: Marco
  6. Thank you all. Andy, to your question about the decks. I painted the deck "Teak" (Colourcoats), then applied a gloss coat (I use Tamiya acrylic), then a wash of brownish-black using water colors, let dry a bit, then clean with damp cloth. Then using very diluted water color brown, brow-black, gray I paint individual planks at random, trying to distribute the different colors on the deck. If you feel that you applied too much, clean and try again. That is it, I guess that I am learning how to do it as well, lots of patience. This is how the rear castle correction looks like currently. The walls surrounding the open platform are glued in place, need to fill and sand still, thin them a bit, some observation equipment should be added in to the interior, guess it will be scratch, copying some of the equipment seen in the forecastle. And started working on the mantainance platrorm that is missing from the Arado catapult. Kagero provides a drawing that I am afraid in this case is wrong, or at least not appropriate for the time. They show it as a rectangular platform, when references of the real thing show an irregular asymetrical shape. I am currently issuing it with plastic sheet (white below in the picture, VERY crude still). Marco
  7. I was waiting to show some relevant advances, Ok, here we go (and thank you for your interest, Andy!). I finished assembling and painting the bridge area. The fitting between the lateral observation platforms and the main bridge body was a pain in the neck, such a bad fitting needed putty everywhere! And there are still couple spots there that I need to retouch, evidently. Anyway, I airbrushed the whole thing Light Ghost Gray, then brush painted the Medium Gray and Dark Gray 2 camo pattern. PE doors were added to the lower part of the superstructure (and started locating the first crew figures, as a test only). All the PE bits were added to the funnel, pretty impressive. Railings are not glued yet, decided to paint the whole think first. Secondary rangefinders ready for painting (some sanding still needed). Now, everything was running smoothly, started assembling the rear superstructure when I noticed some discrepancies between the kit and reference pictures & Kagero drawings, basically in three areas: 1. the kit does not have upper deck in front and sides of the catapult base, while Kagero does show it 2. There are two "ears" on the sides of the superstructure, missing from the kit 3. The rear castle is kind of wrong (very), according to references it should be an open structure, the kit provides it as an enclosed structure. Now you see the upper deck around the catapult base... Now you don't! I started by adding the missing upper deck around the catapult base. Instead of rescribing plastic sheet, I cut a "graft" from the deck that will be hidden under the superstructure and used it to issue the missing area. It has the same planking pattern so no rescribing nor nothing. Instead of making a hole through the deck, it was easier to cut the catapult base in upper and lower halves. And this is the final result (before filling, sanding and gluing) Next came the "ears" which were issued with plastic sheet following Kagero's scale drawings. And finally came the most complicated fix, the rear castle observation deck. When seen from above, Trumpeter got it right, only thing is that the rearmost part of the structure should be an open space surrounded by 5' height walls. As I had already assembled the structure, I had to get rid of the wrong parts simply cutting and sanding them off. I added some plastic parts and putty to correctly shape the rangefinder oval base, and then used the "roof" of the observation area to issue the new "floor", upon which I will build up the metal walls surrounding the area. This is the basic shape that I wanted to get: Oval rangefinder base, observation platform floor to the right, and small aircraft maintenance platform to the left (need to get rid of the chunk of plastic beneath the platform, shouldn't be there). The kind of hexagonal shape of the floor will be used to build up the observation platform walls. And this is how the whole thing with the three corrections looks like so far. I hope to complete the observation platform, puttying and sanding during the weekend and go on with the rest of the assembly. And it is never bad to imagine the end results!!! Marco
  8. Advancing with the superstructure, I replaced the armored windows shuts and one door with Eduard PE (prefer to leave most doors closed, and it is better to leave the moded doors in place if you are showing them closed). The plastic supports for the boats were removed and will be replaced with PE parts. The PE radar antenna is a quantum leap vs the plastic part. Used some Tamiya Gray putty in some areas, still needing some sanding. Marco
  9. Working on the PE parts of the bow, nice improvement over the plastic parts. WI will wait to glue most of them to the deck after I finish with the weathering. Marco
  10. Some more advances, slower after vacations, but here we go. a)Finished painting and assembling the secondary armament, AAs and torpedo tubes. I really like the turrets to be able to rotate, and the kit does not provide that option. Thus I extended and enlarged the pins that go into the deck using Evergreen plastic rod, fitting notches that will keep them in place after inserting and turning them into position. I followed original pictures as camouflage references, as Trumpeter instructions are totally generic regarding turret patterns. b ) I removed the stern and bow molded chains, and rescribed the decks. The stern anchor chain was not used in standard operations, so I will not replace it. c ) Some additional details needed on this rear wall, evidently the white structure (I don't know what it was, but it was notorious) was missing in the kit, I scratchbuilt it. The windows are located in the wrong position, but I realized this too late (and they are so tiny...) d ) Drilled the chimney openings, but I didn't like the emptiness that could be seen down through the holes. I issued chimney tubes from straws, painted black and glued with superglue. Enough to give a good impression. Glued in place the PE "L" shaped supports. e ) Glued the mid and front deck, some issues there as the hull sides are pretty tight, nothing that a couple rubber bands can't fix. f ) Looking at the stern, there was something missing from the kit, and it was that massive metal "lip" that protects the stern eagle from damage of the ropes coming out of the deck through the stern end. The metal "lip" was a massive piece of cast iron, protruding I guess like 0.5 meters on top of the eagle head, like a roof, and having been black, it is kind of noticeable. I scratchbuilt it, and modified the base of the stern flagstaff for a more realistic appearance (the flag staff is gone, no use during combat). Aaand this is for now. Marco
  11. Marco1965

    Zvezda 1/350 HMS Dreadnought

    Incredible, not only the ship itself but I envy you skills on simulating water! Marco
  12. I am learning so much on this thread! Incredible job! Marco
  13. Further advances (after holidays, kind of slowly...). The main and secondary armament turrets have been painted, and some shadowing/weathering added to the 150mm & 105mm turrets and torpedo launchers. Starting with the hull, and before anything else, I had to correct a mistake in the kit, the stern anchor recess. As most of you might already know, Trumpeter molded the stern anchor recess wrong, oriented to the back around 45°, while it should be at around 45° to the FRONT. I have seen several recommendations on how to correct this issue, but I decided to cut the whole recess as not to damage it, glue it in the correct position and fill the mess with super glue and Tamiya putty. It turned out good and I call it done (with minor scratches showing up when I applied the Mr. Surfacer, nothing that a good sanding can't get rid of). Anchor recess as provided in the kit: Moment of truth...: Reconstruction of the area: Result after sanding and appying Mr. Surfacer to check small defects: Marco
  14. Marco1965

    Focke-Wulf Fw 190A-5 1/72 Eduard

    Crisp detail, nice work with the wire antennae, appropriate to the scale. Excellent. Marco
  15. The F-14 Tomcat came into my life with "The Final Countdown", and I felt quite sad to see it go a decade ago. Therefore I decided, as a little tribute, to assemble one of the last combat cruise Tomcats. Hasegawa issued the F-14D Last Combat Cruise in 1/72, that includes two conmemorative schemes of VF-213: AJ 213 and AJ201. I decided to represent AJ201 as I wanted to have a Tomcat that was closer to combat scheme, not with the shiny blue all over it. The kit is quite accurate for a D, I used resin seats though as the seats provided lack detail, then you have to sand off some antennae around the wing roots not typical of a D, and the decals had some mistakes on them (as letters missing from some stencils...). I had some issues with the decal sheet as they were quite old, too. But maybe the most demanding part is getting rid of dozens and dozens of ejection pin marks. But well, that said, the kit is very nice. Kit provides only an AN/AAQ14 targeting pod, you have to buy some additional Hasegawa weapons sets if you want the 500pd GBUs typically used in the last missions over Iraq in 2005, or the lonely Sidewinder hanging from the left rail. Most of the assembly is OOB, painted as per instructions excepting the dark area around the cockpit, which was Dark Sea Blue (not insignia blue) and left the canopy frame in Light Ghost Gray. Hope that you like it. Marco