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Marco1965

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About Marco1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    Latin American Airplanes, diverse others.

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  1. Jaw dropped, what an amazing work, all the things I "thought" of doing to my Panther, you actually did to yours, HA! Following your build as I am several steps behind and eager to incorporate all the improvement you did into my model! Marco
  2. Indeed, I had issues with the engine compartment walls... For some unknown reason, the left wall did not fit properly, because suspension parts interfered with the lower edge of the wall and lower part of the fuel tank. As none lf these parts are going to be seen, I crudely trimmed both offenders and made the parts fit properly. I don´t know what did I do wrong. After that quick fix, everything fell in place perfectly, still some pressure needed but nothing unexpected. Finished the driver´s instruments, nice decals provided in the kit. Still
  3. Going on with the interior details, incredible all the stuff that these things carried internally, learning a lot about it with this kit. I continued with the driver and radio-operator seats and floor areas, fitting the floors to the hull requires patience, put they snap in place perfectly! The battery containers snapped in place, as well, little bit tight but there they are. Painting the covers was sort of an interrogation mark, in pictures of original Panthers (not restorations), the covers seem to be metal, could have been steel, not painted. Takom suggests
  4. It is difficult to stop assembling this kit! I continued working with the torsion bars, let me tell you that locating the 32 torsion bars in place was a matter of patience and resignation. I sanded round the tips of the longer bars to make it easier for them to snap in place. In the end it all wend well, didn´t break nor needed to cut anything. Only testing what lay ahead of me. But first I glued the gearbox and differential gearbox in place. Not as easy as I had imagined, some pressure is needed to make the sub-assembly pass through the "beams" that were alre
  5. Continued with the interior paint. I followed the recommended Ammo Mig colors for the Redbrown and the Cream White, they look good. Applied some preshading, although I know most of the floor will not be visible, didn´t feel good having a featureless redbrown paintjob. I have my reserves though, following color recommendations of Dark gray for the gearbox and differential gearbox. The few available pictures show a lighter tone, and in most cases a different tone between gearbox and differential gearbox. As the general principle was that subassemblies like gear
  6. Had some fun opening door accesses, and gluing doors. Got rid of the catapult structures molded to the catapult deck, they will be replaced with PE parts. Finished painting the antiskid areas, Dark Gray. I don´t find any reason for the upper deck behind the bridge to be antiskid, but I could not find any proof proving otherwise, son kept it as provided in the kit. The scribed deck below the catapult deck looks nice with the color contrast. Finished the torpedo tubes, painted them Light Gray (36495) and applied some paneling accent before sealing with flat
  7. It has been years since I last assembled an armored vehicle, but the full interior line of armor from Takom is simply irresistible to me. I started with the one I like most, the Sd. Kfz. 171 Panther A mid-late. The kit comes in a surprisingly big box, which is full to the top with sprue and some PE for the engine vents grills. Zimmerit, offers full interior, and I mean full, every tiny detail is there. Tracks are provided in plastic, either as segments or individual tracks, includes a jig to assemble the tracks and then put them on the vehicle, need to try that one.
  8. Hi, thank you for quoting my Kate build. I am about to start a second Kate (this time a torpedo Kate) and a refreshing of my memory will come in handy! I mostly looked for information in japanese aviation forums (j-aircraft.com), aviation of japan, and any other forum and pictures that I could find. David Aiken was an excellent, source with well supported information in the forums where he left excellent contributions. 1. Gray color: the three types of a/c were painted IJN Gray Green (Tamiya XF-76) when they departed Japan, on the way to Hawaii, and according to their purpose, the Kate
  9. I painted the deck and applied a wash of a mix of black/brown water colors. Finally sealed with Tamiya Flat Clear. Ready for the Dark Gray anti-skid areas now! In summary, these are the two decks that require scribing because they were planked: the deck around turret B, and the rear deck below catapult deck. The gray, non-painted areas correspond to dark gray anti-skid areas. Marco
  10. Thank you, Chewbacca, I would say that practice has helped a lot, and correcting some miscalculations that I did in the beginning when I scribed the deck around Turret B. Back then I did not take into account that the scribing between planks in the kit, which are quite wide. So I ended up with planks that were marginally narrow. I corrected that with this second scribing process. The other thing was that in this case I had the benefit of being able to use the deck around the second armament as a guide (I should have done that with the front deck!), I marked the spacing with pencil,
  11. Well there is no number on the scribed. The kit of 6 scribers is “S/E Wax Carver”. Stainless Steel, made in India. Doesn’t say anymore, and to be true, I only use 1 out of the 6 scribers. marco
  12. Ups you got me with that question, bought the set from Micro-Mark years ago, they look like dentists tools. I would need to check the one I used for the number. marco
  13. There is another modification that the kit requires, regarding the rear upper deck (below que catapult deck). Trumpeter represents this deck as a flat surface, dark gray antiskid surface according to paint instructions. But in pictures of that same area show that there is planking, lighter color, rather than flat, dark gray surface. Quite noticeable on this picture, where a segment of the upper deck is very clear, above the boats on the picture. Notice the contrast to other dark gray areas, the planking pattern and the very similar appearance to the lower planked deck.
  14. Thank you, Jamie, yeap, I think that is planking, color is evidently lighter and a clear contrast to other dark gray antiskid areas. And the limit between the rear planked deck and the dark gray area around the rearmost funnel, for the boats, is right where the upper deck narrows, behind the crane base. I think we´ve got new work to do on Trumpeters kit, rear deck will look nice in Teak color! Thank you! Marco
  15. Thank you, dying to see that picture tomorrow, Jamie! And here goes the whole perspective amidships, different tones of gray. The boat deck around the funnels is quite darker, as is the aft superstructure and the catapult deck. Interesting that the planked deck of the secondary armament is quite light, while the one being questioned, below the airplane catapult deck, is darker, but looks planked to me. If I scribe my model, a picture will show up showing it was not planked, and vice-versa, that happens normally within weeks, if not days, of the update becoming irreversible. Marc
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