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Zack

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About Zack

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    Sweden

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  1. I was hoping to get back to the "Sd.Kfz 181 Tiger 1 SUPERTHREAD" and was checking my stash when... The old lady turned out to be something completely different - a Wasp I am actually very happy about the transformation of the faded old lady! Must have flipped the box in order to get something more sturdy then the Revell offering... Good Scotch has played me tricks before Now - anyone out there who can offer advice on this Dragon origin Revell rebox? Instructions suggest "light olive matt" for the interiors, what would that be for the box art depicted aircraft (1942). Your advice and any sort of suggestions here would be very much appreciated! Summer Greetings, stay sane and happy modelling! Zack
  2. Thank you All! Really very much appreciated! Almost midnight here in Gothenburg so will come back tomorrow with follow up questions, if any, but for the time being; Thank you All for your time, great suggestions and advice!!! Stay safe, stay sane and till next time: Happy modelling Zack
  3. Dear BM friends. not sure if I have landed correctly in this section, but here we go: I am (still) trying to learn best practice when it comes to working with fillers. I have seen many references to so called "sprue goo", plastic sprue diluted in Tamiya Extra Thin cement. Sounds "hot" and a bit dangerous with large amounts of solvents. Ideally I would want something that is easy to apply and were excess can be easily wiped off or later easily sanded off. I was not the brightest shining light in chemistry class and must admit that many fillers available nowadays are new to me. Could you help me with two questions please: #1.) How would you thin/dissolve the following fillers: Perfect Plastic Putty, Deluxe Plastic putty 70.401, Vallejo Tamiya Putty White, Tamiya #2.) What would be your preferred filler. Thank you in advance and sorry if I am posting in the wrong thread. Stay safe! Zack
  4. WOOT WOOT, this seams to have worked out OK Here is the engine stack inside the cowling: Always found the reference to German Grey / Panzer Grey was very black, this is more like a bluish color: Here the wing(s) assembled to the fuselage, not my best day at work. Note the bent starboard wing, had to use brute force to make the wing root join #reasonably# manageable. Will still need filler and sanding and some DIY. All me, I am not blaming the kit. The IP is looking OK under the supplied decal. Here is the Wikimedia picture of the BMW engine at Duxord Special thanks go to aunt Lena for contiguous support! Stay safe, stay sane and Happy Modelling! Zack
  5. Thank you Artoor! Much appreciated That is a great advice. Very Best Regards Zack Stay safe, stay sane & happy modelling!
  6. Hi Artoor K, Thank you for sharing! Have the kit in my stash but have no found the motivation to do the necessary upgrades. Been sitting ther for 4 years now Yours look fine And I am not distracted... Is that a complete rebuild of the dashboard and IP? Great job! Stay safe, stay sane and happy modelling! Zack
  7. Thank you @Sturmovik The Swedish saying is the first thing you get blind on is your eyes.... It is obvious when you think about it, assemble the cowling parts around the engine ring (part85) and then mount the cylinder stacks to the ring Way cool - I think I can do that This will probably aid in getting the exhaust aligned as well Kind regards Zack
  8. Hi, Restarting this after a couple of years in SOD status. Somehow I ended up with 3 of these, this one will be built in a simplistic manner. In flight, gear up, engine hatches closed. So I am mot worried about the mold seems visible in the picture below Looks to me as if I have managed to get the engine mount in at an angle tilted slightly backward? And my question - is this supposed to look like this? With very best regards & special thanks @Procopius for kicking the strangler out of the shadows. Stay safe, stay sane and happy modelling! Zack
  9. @Andy350 You are of to a good start here! If you still need that wheel let me know, might have an IP somewere as well. @Troy Smith War time or post? With Regards Zack
  10. Hello Mike, Congratulations to a Super start on this awesome kit! Books have been written about how to best approach this build. And you just do it after saving up the Moyo over 45 years. I am totally amazed, and truly inspired! Thank you for sharing and Wellcome to the Forum Stay safe, stay sane and Happy Modelling! Zack
  11. DearAll, Thank you for taking your time and taking interest in this question. The kit is the Revell # 03943 Bristol Beaufighter TF. X in 1/48. Here the IP panels. The kit comes with an optional nose part to be fitted, one that seems to be a radom. Not sure if fitting this would require the flat door behind the gunner (O143) to be replaced with R17 shown below: I will try to get some pictures up in In Progress when the primer has dried. Best regards Zack
  12. Hi, There are 2 IP's provided in the kit, #6 & #113. Instructions call for #113, this is a "flat" item and seems to be the better choi e for the supplid decal. But is this correct? Stay safe, stay sane! Zack
  13. Dear All, It has been very interesting following this thread and all the contributions to the GB posted here! Sorry to say - my involvment has been zipp and my current build level is null/zero/nothing. Reason is shown below - a very challenging 1:1 project that hopefully won't be completed until sometimes in the middle of the next decade. Meet Lucky (aka Ture), he is an Irish Wheaten 15 weeks now. As soon a the next phase (house clean) is over I will hopefully get some bench time and get the Freccia going again. Until then - good luck with your current and future projects ;). Stay safe, stay sane and Happy Modelling Zack
  14. Right, figures are completely new to me but I am going to do a DIO. Hope you know what I am aiming at here: In the set of pictures there is at least one showing her with the engine hatch open, so I needed something to go in there, same with turret hatches so in goes a mix of detail from Zvezda, Academy and Dragon: Base is the Academy engine and engine compartment: The piping is pretty much fictitious, had no god references here. Not quite sure about the colors either but since only the fans will be visible later I guess I will do them in cast alloy. The walls of the engine compartment turned out to be a tad to high, will need to either fill the gap or do some tedious sanding: Got myself a Quick Wheel masking set after realizing that I had a total of 192 to do: Fresh out of Tamiya Rubber Black so still some touching up to do... And finally, my new new friend, this is Vilde Finally and as usual; Stay safe and stay sane! And happy anniversary
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