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About Leon81

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  • Birthday 10/17/1981

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    WWIi Aircrafts, History, Photo, Avasimulator

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  1. Haven't build ICM model, so can't say. But as far as i read it has alot of inaccuracies too. Been using BIG4891 Eduard 1/48 - https://i-modelist.ru/goods/220/461/462/863/14475.html And some part from Interavia: I have used some materials from the works of Massimo Tessitori on his web site
  2. Next, I took up the air radiator, its shape is not given correctly, it narrows too much to the tail. I could not find the resin one Dmold (white in the photo above), so I decided to redo plastic one. I cut the radiator along the red line, pushed the halves apart and glude a cone made of polystyrene sheet (drawn in red) inside. Unforunatly i dont have the fhoto of the while prosess.. As a result of this operation, quite a strong strain was created in the plastic. To make it more firm, I glude a patch on the inside, which creates additional rigidity. I also sanded off the
  3. Now go to the cockpit. I didn't like the plastic set, so I threw it away. Used some photoetched details. I decided to solder power frame using brass tubes. I didn't see any sense of making the entire power set, I made only those parts that will be visible in the assembled plane.
  4. Shape of the spinner is incorrect too, it is too plump. I Couldnt find a ready-made resin, so I sanded plastic one from the outside, as far as the thickness of the plastic walls allowed. Bought the correct resin propeller Plastic wing mechanization was thrownand soldered from photoetched parts.
  5. Next, go to chassis. In plastic, landing gear doors are a single monolithic part, in practice, it consist of three parts. So I cut them in 3 parts, sanded off the thickness both from the inside and outside. On the inside, glued photoetched parts. I cut off the plastic shock absorber rods, after painting I plan to replace them with needles, imitated the cables with copper wire. I just bought resin wheels as a more copy.
  6. Niches. In plastic, the niches are quite empty. I didn't like the option that was offered at the manual using photoetched parts. I decided to cut holes instead of imitating them . I added the main cables, chassis mechanism, air ducts from a piece of a sprue, and missing frame elements from polystyrene sheet. Cut out a strip of polystyrene sheet, glued the etched parts to it, then glued the strip in the inner side of the wing. In those places where I made holes, I sanned of off the thickness of the
  7. Now the engine hood. It has some ledges that were't presented on a real one. I cut them off, deepened the vents using a saw. Since the machine guns were planned to be installed at the very end, and they would not fall inside, and held, on the inside of the hood I have made a socket, using Greenstuff.
  8. Will return to the niches later. Next, exhaust manifold fairing and air intakes on the fuselage. Its shape is incorrect, I did not figure out how to fix it, so I cut them off completely and made a new one from the sheet of plastic. The wall of the air intake of the oil cooler was sanded down in thickness from the inside. I also cut the thickness of the ribs perpendicular to the fuselage, between which the exhaust pipes are inserted. Below is a photo of a replica of MiG-3, inside the air intake
  9. Hello, I am new to this forum, but have some experience in modeling. Will build MiG-3 early 1/48 Trumperter. I consider MiG-3 the most beautiful fighter of the World War II, the plane looks like a fighter should look, predatory and fast. The build of this plane is nearly finished (base camo is done), but I will try to reconstruct the whole process. I wanted to make this model as detailed and authentically as possible as possible. I don’t have many models on the shelf, so I am trying to master some new tricks each build. For this model it was decided to master solde
  10. I have found information about new AK Interactive paint, 3d generation Acrylic. Here is some informattion about it https://i-modelist.ru/modelnews/25.pdf I usuallly build models at home so, smell is an issue, сurrently using Vallejo MA. Has anyone tried this paint and how well it is sprayed through an airbrush compared to Vallejo MA?
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