cmatthewbacon

The best E-type kit of all is the big Revell 1/8th kit... if you can get one, expect to pay about £75 or so. The best 1/24th coupe kit is the Heller or Airfix one (they are the same: both come in standard and race trim versions - wire wheels in the standard versions, Dunlop metal discs in the racing one). Heller does also do a convertible, which I don't THINK was ever in an Airfix box. The best 1/24 convertible kit is the Gunze Sangyo one; it also comes in an Airfix "Hi-Tech" box. The one I have (in the Airfix box) has white metal engine etc, and photo etch parts for the bonnet interior. I don't know whether, like many other Gunze kits, there's a "low-tech" kerbside version without the full metal equipment. The only problem is that te cabin interior is moulded in vinyl, not styrene... The Revell 1/25th kit is old, but actually rather good. It has lots of detail under the hood... It's probably the easiest to find, too... The Airfix 1/32 kit isn't much kop... HTH, bestest, M

Fingers-crossed, Jorgen... This makes me feel a whole lot more comfortable with this build! Grille frame painted with Humbrol Acrylic spray Metalcote Polished Aluminium over Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. There's a little more tidying up to do, but I'm happy that the part that I was most worried about is now there or thereabouts. I'm sure there's lots of other things to mess up, but I'm reasonably confident that the grille won't derail the rest of the build now! bestest, M.

I think I may be going to have some issues with clear parts: These 250 SWB windows have clearly been rattling about in the bag through several owners and international journeys! I have Micromesh and Novus polish, though, so I'm sure they are fixable! This, however, is going to be more of a challenge. I've spoken to a nice lady in Revell Germany's UK office, and she's taken my details and promised that a replacement clear tree will be with me in 4-6 weeks. Fortunately, on this kit, the 458 windscreen drops in from outside, late in the build, so it shouldn't stop me doing anything except attaching the windscreen wipers... Still, both things I could do without! bestest, M.

I decided it might be a fun "compare and contrast" to build two of the Ferraris that have been in the stash for longer than they should have been: the Revell 458 Italia, and the Gunze Sangyo 250SWB Berlinetta. The 458 Italia is going to be in a yellow-ish colour scheme; the 250SWB, hopefully, in the dark blue Rob Walker racing colours driven by Stirling Moss. However, I might cheat and NOT try to switch the car from LH to RH drive, because unlike the GTO, the subtly curved dash of the 250 SWB will be pretty hard to flip! Here's the starting line! The 250SWB doesn't look TOO small by comparison... There is one thing I've been dreading with the 250SWB, which is one of the reasons why it has lingered in the stash for as long it has. The distinctive "egg-crate" grille is built up out of 17 individual interlocking pieces of photo-etch. It's a bit of a "make or break" element for this build, and since it's a standalone assembly, I thought I'd get it out of the way first, to face my demons and remove the scary influence it was having on me... I read a few online reviews and builds (few and far between, I must say) and one thing I took away was that the instructions are unhelpful and the slats don't fit in the sequence suggested. To hold the parts as I assembled them, I stuck some Tamiya masking tape tacky side up onto a piece of perspex with double sided tape. Then, I drew around the interior of the grille frame (a chromed part) so I could see the "square hole" that the "round peg" was going to have to fit into. I placed the central verticals either side of the centreline. BE WARNED: the places where you bend the slats at 90 degrees are marked at one end with a slot, and at the other with two holes. The "two-hole" ends MUST go at the BOTTOM of the grille. The folded ends also all fold toward the centreline. It's pretty clear looking at the shape, where the LONGEST slats need to fit. The fold-up ends on the slightly shorter one needed to be adjusted slightly so it fitted below the longer one. The etch-mate/hold n fold (I can't remember which one it is) doesn't come out very often these days, but when it does, it's invaluable. It'd be VERY hard to do all these 90 degree bends in pretty hard etch with out something like it. I'm glad I remembered I'd got one! The shortest slat is clearly at the bottom. Then it's a matter of trial and error with the other three to get as close as you can to the outline of the hole. I know already it's not going to fit first time, but, since I was stripping the chrome anyway, I'd rather slightly reshape the interior of the grille frame until it fits than mess around trying to trim and re-bend the metal parts. When all the horizontals were in place, I applied medium viscosity superglue to the joins with a pin, and once it had set, VERY carefully, lifting by the verticals (which are UNDER the horizontals at every join), I eased the whole thing up and flipped it over back onto the tape. Then I applied the rest of the verticals, a pair at a time, working outwards, and gluing each one as it was put in place. DON'T FORGET: the two hole bends go at the bottom and the bent tabs go toward the centre. (I'm saying it twice 'cos it's a pain in the **** if you get it wrong. If you look carefully at the photos above, you can see that I started with the centre verticals the wrong way up. Thank goodness for debonder). I did it by bending the first of each pair and putting it in the place where it fitted (the first one you bend will always go on one side or the other), and then working out carefully which way the second one would have to bend to go in the remaining slot... Finally, I eased the whole assemble gently off the tape with my flat Stanley-knife blade from the bending kit, and that horrible job is mostly done (I won't count it finished until I have adapted the frame and got the grille to sit nicely inside it...) Apologies for the length of this post, but I couldn't find any assembly sequence for this beastie online, so I hope it will help others. Thanks to the various people who offered advice before I started -- even if I didn't take it all on board, it was all helpful to get me thinking about how best to do it! bestest, M.

Hi, all, I know this is not exactly scratchbuilding, but it seemed more akin to the challenges that scratchbuilders face than any other section in Tools and Tips! I've just started work on a Gunze Ferrari 250 SWB. The radiator grille is built up from strips of photo-etch. The short verticals are slotted half way through on the front edge, and the long horizontals half way through on the back edge. In theory, they interlock criss-cross fashion to make up the "egg-crate" grille. Gunze would have you place the centre two verticals and then the centre pair of horizontals, and then fill outwards vertically and horizontally a pair at a time. The problem is, once you have placed the first pair of verticals and crossed the horizontals, you have to lift the whole thing up to get the next pair of verticals "underneath", and repeat over and over. The fit is good, but not completely snug, so the whole thing can move at any stage unless the joints are stuck. Currently, I've got as far as placing the first pair of verticals on some double sided tape, dropping the first pair of horizontals in place, and marking all the locations of the rest of the verticals. My thought is to remove the horizontals, place all the other verticals at the marked locations, and then drop all the horizontals. I'm worried, though, that if I join the slats with liquid superglue, it'll run down and stick the grille to the mat below. I also might be barking up the wrong tree entirely! Anyone built either this kit or anything like this out of etched brass and have any hints and tips that they'd care to share? Many thanks! bestest, M.

This might help: http://www.uboatarchive.net/U-570DesignBook.htm or this: http://www.wreckhunter.net/images/u505-illus-HiRez-MSI.jpg U-505, U-535 and U-570 are still around, one way or another. If you Google "U-??? interior" you'll find images and video walkthroughs. There's also a game called Silent Hunter which you can find video walkthroughs of, provided you are prepared to believe the game designers did their homework. Of course, there's also "Das Boot", which you can ofetn find on DVD in a charity shop, which has excellent and very well researched sets... bestest, M.

Thanks very much guys - the kit makes it easy to get a good result, honest! @madhatter -- the wheels are FG Model wheels, bought from Media Mix Hobby in Singapore. They were a bit over a tenner, and worth every penny. I recommend Media Mix highly, as well... ordered online from http://www.mediamixhobby.com.sg/shop/index.php and the wheels were with me six days later, tracked all the way, for a few quid more. @smiffy... ta muchly. One of my pleasures for the weekend is to take a long hard look at the stash to decide what to do next. Currently debating a Revell/Fujimi Ferrari 458 dual "compare and contrast" build; a "definitive" E-type Coupe using Heller body, Tamiya wheels and possibly a Gunze White metal engine; or a Gunze Ferrari 250SWB in Stirling Moss dark blue racing markings. But that's BEFORE I've firkled in the stash... bestest, M.

Hi, Paul... sorry to hear that it didn't work! You want something that looks kinda like this: And you need to hold it close to the surface -- more so for smaller meshes. Click it to see it larger. To avoid hijacking your build, I've put a separate thread here: Painting Carbon Fibre Good Luck! bestest, M.

Hi, all... this is the method I use for painting carbon fibre effect finishes on car parts. It's not perfectly to scale, but it gives a good "impression" on a model, and especially if you need it on interiors where it won't be examined too closely. Works well over compound curved shapes which would be a pain to decal as well... You start with some ribbon from your local haberdashers/craft shop/Boyes/Walmart, that looks like this: As you can see, I have two sizes. The one on the left is usable for radiator grilles etc, and is really too coarse, but gives a more clearly visible effect and hence a better contrast "at a glance". You decide whether you prefer the closer to scale look or the clear contrast between carbon diffuser and red bodywork! The base material is just painted black. In this case it's a bit of spare black painted card headlining that I used on the DBS. You need to hold the ribbon CLOSE to the model part. It stretches and conforms nicely, but use tape to hold it down or fix the part in place and stretch it over with your fingers if necessary to make sure it conforms closely to the part. The finer the mesh, the more important this is. If you don't have it close enough, the pattern just blurs and eventually isn't there at all... Spray with your contrasting "carbon" coat. I use Zero Paints Graphite Grey, but any darkish metallic grey will do. You can also paint the base coat in the metallic grey and overspray with black through the mesh if you want to vary the effect, say in an engine bay with several carbon fibre elements. You should up with something like this (the clear coat I used quickly is attacking the black base paint on the card, which is why you can see bits of gold colour emerging -- choose your paints carefully for compatibility!). You can see that the right hand side is much finer patterned than the left. It has a discernible pattern, but from any distance it will merge to grey. The other will give a stronger impression of "carbon" on your model, but if a contest judge gets out the magnifying glass or picks it up, it'll be too coarse for scale. You pays your money and you takes your choice (the ribbon, by the way, costs about 50p for 3 feet, and you can use it over and over...) I hope that this helps some of you! best regards, Matt

I'm talking here about those real metal foil transfers that are typically used for small chrome details and badges. I had no end of trouble with the ones in my Tamiya DBS kit, with them not sticking or lifting paint (on the engine cover). Previously I'd used a sheet of aftermarket Ferrari logos with no issues, but this is how I finally solved the problem of the Tamiya ones - but only on the last one, so I'm posting it up here in the hope that other people can learn from my mistakes! First of all, there's usually some spare metal transfer - in the Tamiya DBS case, a sort of sheet identifier number on a plaque. Don't ignore it! Just try applying some of this spare transfer to the surface or surfaces you need the real things to go on, and see if it goes on easily. If so, you're set. But if not, you haven't trashed a unique and fragile transfer in finding out (in my case,, "6.0 V12"). This is especially a problem since the elements of these transfers are not actually connected in any way once they are off the backing and cover film. The transfers are most likely to stick properly to a smooth, shiny surface. In the DBS decal sheet, there are several number plate frames where the clear decal film covers the whole area of the plate, but only the border is printed in colour (eg the Italian plate). I applied the metal transfer to some of the clear decal film. You can rub it down HARD on a flat, level surface and be sure that the thing has firmly stuck down. Then, cut the decal film close to the metal transfer and apply it like a normal decal. The glue on the transfer is not affected by the water. I used Klear as a setting solution, and the underlying decal film is completely invisible. Most kits have some spare decals with extra clear film, and if the specific kit you're building doesn't you've certainly got some in the spares box or stash of other kits that will... best regards, Matt

Done... and what a cracking kit! I can't recommend this kit highly enough... superbly detailed and engineered, and a real pleasure to build. The only issue is those darn metal transfers, which I (finally) figured out that I should apply to some of the "spare" bits of decal, like the number plates, and then waterslide them into place. Colour is "homebrew" Carbon Black - Zero Paints black with some graphite powder - with a "Madagascar Orange" interior. The "Carbon Edition" has more visible carbon fibre interior and exterior (splitter plates and diffuser) and crackle-black coated exhausts. bestest, M.

There's a Fiat Racing Red which is a dead ringer for earlier, less orange, Rosso Corsa. You see it around a lot on Fiat 500s! bestest, M.

Thanks, Odd.... and Devilfish, I hope it works out for you with the ribbon: "Organza" is a type of fabric, like Denim, not a brand name, BTW... Good progress today: This is the back end, with "smoked" rear lights (special option for the Carbon Edition) tinted using Klear and a couple of drops of black ink in the airbrush. There really are no visible colours in the light lenses at all... ... and the front end. The lights go together brilliantly, even though I've forgotten the zebra stripe decals for the silver surrounds. They are lost inside the mounting, anyway. I left the lighting bay surround in black plastic, since that's what it is in real life! Clear parts painted. I used the excellent precut masks, and started out with a "write on anything" pen for the first coat, to ensure that there was something for paint to "take" on, and finished off by spraying with Vallejo Model Air black to get a good density. This is a "Because God can see" detail... The carbon edition has quilted leather headlining, which is replicated here using painted textured card from small daughters greeting card making kit... You can't see this at all when it's together, but I like it! ...and now, time to take a last look at that shiny interior... And at last! It's together... Once again, the fit and ease of assembly is superb. There's still a fair bit of detailing to do, and the final decals, but I think I'm on the Home Straight now... bestest, M.

Hi, Devilfish... the ribbon is from my local haberdashery shop, which is full of ribbons, buttons and thread. Boyes is a good source as well. It's 40mm wide, I think, and is a very fine mesh.... available in a number of colours, though mine is silver so I can see it, and see where the colour I'm spraying over it is going... I think it's called Organza... bestest, M.

Err... yes. Yes it does! Keeping on keeping on over here... Final version of the dash with as much detail painting as these old eyes can manage! And here it is in place. I made the window controls and whatever the little levers on the tunnel are by printing out bits of photos and sticking them in place, and added speakers under the dash... which you can't see at all! Now got it on the chassis, where it fits perfectly. And, again, I couldn't resist (the mechanism for attaching the body to the chassis is simple and repeatable, so why not give it a try?) I suspect the Tamiya chassis doesn't have the full depth wheel arches that Fujimi kits do, which means that the fitting of the body to the chassis is not a "once-and-for-all" gamble with lots of bodyshell springing! Though I say it myself, I'm liking this colour scheme! bestest, M.

Killing time with the online plate maker at http://www.licenseplates.tv/england-719.html ... I know which one I prefer! Any views from the assembled crowd? To see which one I like, highlight here: bestest, M.

Thanks! Good progress on the cabin this afternoon: Not quite finished yet -- there are a few details left to add in the doors and central tunnel, and the decals for badges and auto gearbox indicators. And the colour isn't really a good reflection of what it's like in daylight. But I think I'm getting there... bestest, M.

Chassis is now complete... the wheels went on more easily than I'd feared they might. I have some silicone "plastic parts" grease from the bike shop, and I applied that to the polycaps before sliding them into place. The "chroming was done using a Pentel Silver marker, with very liquid ink, which dissolves in white spirit. I also had some "rub n buff" silver leaf. By using a paintbrush to mix the ink, rub n buff and occasional brushfuls of white spirit to keep it all liquid, I got a controllable colour which could be carefully brushed onto the high edges. When it had set after several hours in a warm place, I could gently buff it with a soft cotton rag on my fingertip. And finally.... couldn't resist trying it... Now hard at work on the interior... bestest, M.

These should do you: http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/harrieratl.html bestest, M.

Positively galloping along, now... this is Stage 8! It may be all black and silver, but it's amazing how many different kinds of black and silver you can use if you put your mind to it! I'm very glad this is done now! The back end is beautifully crisp, fits well, and is brilliantly engineered -- typical Tamiya! I have to confess, I didn't paint some of the parts -- the plastic is _already_ a nice "semi-gloss black", so what's the point of priming it and painting it the same colour, and making it fit less well while I'm at it? These are the FG DBS wheels in "diamond-turned" form, as featured on the "Black carbon" edition, fitted with Pegasus Models Pilots for the real low-profile look. They were sprayed gloss black with a Humbrol acrylic in a rattle can, and then "chromed" with my own witches' brew of Pentel silver pen ink mixed with "Rub n'Buff"... The centres, with nuts, form a separate piece including the pin that becomes the axle. My only worry is about the strength of the join between that pin and the wheel - I used gel super glue, and will give it plenty of time to set really hard before trying to plug them in to the poly caps in the wheel bearings, but I can easily see a wheel falling off if I'm not careful... bestest, M.

I think that what that section is about is that they will create a "one-off" or short run model for publicity (or giving to the team members, for example). That Mercedes was most likely made for the team or sponsors, and is not in the regular range. They might sell you one, but probably not! Profil 24 are generally thought to be pretty good, in terms of shape, kit contents and detail but hard work, and not cheap! There's also an out of production kit made by Black Box, but since Googling produces only one, and that for sale for $1000, that may not be the kit you're looking for either... Your best bet might be to contact Profil 24 directly: [email protected] and see if they'll sell you one of their kits, and how much for. "Bonjour, Monsieur... est-il possible d'acheter un de vos modeles reduites de la Mercedes CLR, vu sur la page "prototypes"? Si c'est possible, combien cela coutera? Je vous remercie beaucoup por votre attention." bestest, M.

Thanks, chaps -- and no, JamesP, this is an entirely new homebrew virulent orange! Another major milestone today - I have completed Stage 2! There have been lots of other activities as well -- decalling in the cabin, priming the FG wheels, which arrived from MediaMix Hobby today, six days after I ordered them from Singapore -- but the main focus of effort has been that engine. And I have to say that Tamiya's metal transfers let me down. I've used aftermarket ones before with no issues, but these lifted the paint and came off with the carrier film. Fortunately, I only destroyed the 6.0 V12 transfer for the middle of the engine. The "Aston Martin" lettering I applied to some self adhesive matt clear film and then stuck it on in one go. Although you can see it in this close-up, it's really not at all obvious at a distance. The 6.0 V12 had to made as a decal on white decal paper, after some Photoshopping of a picture of the engine from the web. getting the engine top onto the suspension and then onto the chassis was also a pain -- it's darned hard to locate the shocks successfully in the lower wishbones, but finally... bestest, M.

The masking and painting and remasking and more painting on the chassis is finally done: The exhaust is just dropped into place to add another metallic tone to the mix. Equally, the cabin is just test fitted: But you get the idea.... quite striking, I think. I'm not sure about the demarcation between carpet and orange leather at the back (no clear pics), but it looks believable to me and I'm NOT repainting it! Lots of detail painting still to go, of course... bestest, M.

Nice one! It's only when you get them together that you can see what a big car the SLS is compared to the 300SL (or 300SLR in my case). I wonder if the 300SL is REALLY 1/25, and is different from the Heller and Italeri 1/24 kits, or whether there's actually only one oldish mould doing the rounds? Either way, the SLS is still a lot bigger, even if it is slightly larger scale as well! Good luck with the doors on the 300SL -- the fit on my SLR was dire. The engineering on the SLS gullwings is superb, though, and they both function as advertised on mine. What colours are you going to do them in? Traditional silver with a red interior, or something a little more left field? I think the 300SL looks awesome in shiny black... I'll be watching this with interest! bestest, M.

The Mollison's Black Magic had a second basic instrument panel fitted so that Mrs M (the former Amy Johnson) could fly the aircraft from the rear seat to give her husband a break. bestest, M.