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Dennis_C

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Posts posted by Dennis_C

  1. 19 hours ago, RidgeRunner said:

    She is coming along well, Dennis. I know that kit can be frustrating (I trashed one build) but it can produce a good model in the end. Remember the little missing things, like trim tabs, fin tip lights, etc, and it will be great :). 

     

    Martin

    Yeah, as you see I'm not forgetting. Cameras and undercarriage done. Next would be intake split plates. Trim tabs and tail lights are at later stage. 

    • Like 1
  2. Fuselage pulled together. Fit so far is flawless. Spine, tail fit perfectly. Nose ring fits near perfect. Fuselage sides got together very well too but maybe a little sanding on the bottom side would make even better result.

    20240228_144809

    I have also glued together fuel tanks. Here some putty was actually needed however fit was also almost flawless. 

    20240228_144911

     

    Quite frankly building this Special Hobby kit out of the box is so simple and quick that I think I could have build maybe 10 Streaks simultaneously over the last month. I spend maybe 3 times more hours to build Tamiya kit with squeezed in Aires resin (it could be quicker without Aires) and I spend 5 times more on Sword Flash. And the progress with Flash is definitely slower.

    • Like 7
  3. Hello!

    I'm moving forward with the airframe assembly here. 

    20240228_143737

    Added all the sections to the fuselage. Overall putty use is not significant. However as mentioned above the gun bay door is actually not fitting superbly. Not sure if that is my assembly skills or what but I felt it's just a little wrong shape. A little flatter than needed leading to mismatching joint with fuselage. Nothing dramatic but I did sand off maybe 0.4 mm and had to use some putty to ensure smooth surface. Putty is yet to be sanded :)

    Next step was wings assembly. Here I think I was able to thin wing upper surface and wheel bay resin part enough to ensure nice fit. So wings got closed without much effort and do not have shape distortions. 

     

    20240228_143455

    I've also prepainted undercarriage so it will now sit in the matchbox waiting for final construction.

    20240228_143947

     

    Thanks for watching and more to come :)

    • Like 5
  4. 1 hour ago, jovapad said:

    Problem with Lifthere is that there are no stencils. 

    Let me know if you cant fix the decals, maybe I could help.

    I'm planning to do 10620 with its red surfaces. Very attractive scheme. I have JRV insignia from hi-decal set. '20' should work fine from just standard USAF numbers set. And serial number could be compiled from more or less generic numbers. So I think I'm fine :)

    • Like 1
  5. 3 hours ago, manuel said:

    I'm not sure you could compare an IIIC and IIIE, they haven't the same reactor. The IIIE is very different from IIIC, look at the air entries.

    Yes - IIIE has longer fuselage right behind the cockpit. But I think middle section of the fuselage stayed the same. There are other differences of course between C and E. Anyway it is necessary to see side to side comparison of IIIC from SH and MSv to start looking at the questionable areas on real thing photoes. So if anyone could make side to side comparisons - that would help any further discussion :)

  6. 1 hour ago, Laurent said:

    Well this would illustrate the difference between the two and not which one is right/wrong.

    That's my point too. I would never blindly bet on SH as being more accurate. They have a number of recent kits with quite serious geometric distortions - Vampire with almost half centimeter wrong wing chord being the most known. Also their Huey Cobra has too small fuselage width around the engine area. 

     

    P.S. You know what - I'm looking at the real thing photoes and assembled photoes of Mirages from SH and MS and I feel the chubbiness of the real thing is more resembling Modelsvit kit. Special Hobby seems too straight to me around the area where bulkhead transitions into the tail. In fact on real thing fuselage spine slightly overlaps with the tail exactly like on Modelsvit kit, but on SH such overlap does not exist. 

     

    5f442ad5c2ee111a0b7d2ff42d923c3fe70f86d6

    Modelsvit

    2022_0524_mirage_Hellcat_462bl.jpg

    Special Hobby

    ambYvTw.jpeg

     

    But again for naked eye it's probably barely noticeable millimeters. So would be nice to see an actual side to side comparison to at least understand what exactly to look at on real thing photoes.

     

    The sooner Special Hobby releases the Nesher - the sooner I'll make such comparison myself :) unless they fix the error as likely Nesher would need a new sprue with fuselage parts. 

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 1
  7. 10 hours ago, Overflow said:

    For anyone comparing  SH to Modelsvit, I am guessing one does know that Modelsvit botched fuselage width by a large margin, to put it in simpler words-Modelsvit has very chubby/ inaccurate fuselage.

     

     

    Hmmm. That is interesting. Do you have any photoes to show the difference between Modelsvit and SH?

    12 hours ago, Enzo the Magnificent said:

    MV kit. 

    Does MV stand for Modelsvit? It should be MS because Modelsvit is Model-Svit meaning Model World translated from Ukrainian.

    • Like 1
  8. 12 hours ago, John Thompson said:

    Really a beautiful build of a very good-looking aircraft! The proportions might require a nose weight of depleted uranium and a small balloon filled with helium in the rear fuselage, though! ;)

     

    John

    Jokes aside - it does not look like there is any substantial space in the nose even for depleted uranium. Quite deep undercarriage pit, air intakes in the nose...

    I'd be really keen to see what was placed into the nose and where...

    A drop of white glue on your shelf could actually work better haha.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 2
  9. I've a little updated otherwise simplistic gear bays of the RF-84:

    20240223_000117

    The section next to undercarriage strut is full of piping in reality which I tried to replicate. Also hydraulic cylinder (?) supplied in the kit is glued into place. 

    Major area where the retracted wheel locates is free from wiring - some wires only go along the side walls which I also tried to minimally reproduce. 

    • Like 3
  10. I have a question - what could be a logical ordnance used by JRV (Yugoslavian Air Force) on their T'jets? From some scarce photoes seems they might have had the same American bombs and projectiles that were used by most other F-84 users. Is that accurate?

    Also I do not see much photoes with external fuel tanks. So do you think just two bombs straight from Tamiya kit would be OK for a JRV Tbird?

    • Like 1
  11. 1 hour ago, Cummulus said:

    I added few oil lines to main wheel wells and cylinder for main legs retraction and extension.

    I ignored this on my SH kit as I want it 100% OOB. But quite frankly the level of detail in the gear bays that SH provides is very low. They could do at least that cylinder (or what it is next to the undercarriage leg attachment) which was not ignored even by Sword in their Streak and Flash. Probably SH plans to release a CMK improvement set in the meantime...

    • Like 2
  12. Some progress here as well. I started to assemble fuselage:

    20240221_234309

    Weight - lead balls meshed into plasticine - were placed inside the intake 'cluster' and on top of it too. Seems heavy and solid enough. 

     

    Here is the close up of exhaust parts:

    20240219_012145

    I've also tried to a little bit tone down the tube - I think it's seen it's darker closer to the end and I think the engine face is also quite bluish. Honestly the tube is so long that the engine face is barely seen there. Green painted section is also almost not visible from outside. 

     

    Just for comparison here are the engine parts for all three Thuds:

    20240219_005445

    I've also applied decal to the control panel:

    20240221_234704

    This is a new Eduard decal and I did remove film 24 hours after decal application. That was easy!

    Overall process worked as follows: 

    - applied future to the painted i/p

    - placed decal onto the place

    - firmly squeezed all the access water

    - left to dry for 24 hours

    - removed film

    - covered the part with satin finish.

    No decal setters or softeners used. Also quite frankly the carrier film looked very rough after decal application. Maybe it would look better if I would dissolve it with decal softeners but really simply removing worked excellent. I'm really happy with the result. Let's see how these would work on the finished model. Maybe we're very close to actual modelling revolution???

     

    Thanks for looking. More to come. 

     

    Dennis

    • Like 8
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