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Dennis_C

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Everything posted by Dennis_C

  1. Dennis_C
    Looks VERY delicate... I'm excited! Hope the molding quality is good enough.
  2. Dennis_C
    Fitting wings to fuselage with Sword kit is not straightforward thing. I believe how kit is engineered is giving too strong anhedral and intakes are looking pointing downwards. So I trimmed a little bit upper edge of the wing and glued thin plastic strip in the lower edge. That by the way gave me much better fuselage to wing joint with little gaps. Looks much better now. Of course splitter plate is added. Another trouble when you insert the intake inner wall into the wing - it bumps into trim on the fuselage moving wing maybe 1.5-2 mm too forward. So I sanded these millimeters off the fuselage bump to ensure wing sits at the right place. Think it's now ready for painting intake inside and then full speed to pull the fuselage and wings together.
  3. Dennis_C
    This is how magic was happening Drops of Krystal Klear to create lense effect in cameras and some instruments. I'm personally quite happy with how it turned out
  4. Dennis_C
    It's rare to see such small bits on a sprue with large parts - wings in this case. Step one in every assembly for me - cut off fuselage and wings and trash the sprues to reduce storage space. So very easy to trash the sprue with this very tiny part.
  5. Dennis_C
    Sprue B, part 6. Next to the front gear bay.
  6. Dennis_C
    Hey, although I'm focused on getting Jet and Streak in time - I'm not stopping with Flash. Some more photoes of intakes and wings will come. Now I'd show you progress with interiors. Seat is yet to be finished. Stick is 'borrowed' from Tamiya F-84G, seat comes from SH F-84F. Also painted self-made cameras The inspiration for the colour selection came from walkaround photoes here: https://ipms.nl/walkarounds/walkaround-jets/walkaround-f86f-thunderflash Lastly here is the completely painted nose undercarriage. Front strut is scratchbuilt. Some more magic to be done with cameras and instrument panel. I'll post a bit later.
  7. Dennis_C
    Mirror image to my post in the Tjet thread. Some external bits to install a little later. Similarly some tone down to be made.
  8. Dennis_C
    So here is the photo of variety of external items Still to attach landing lights to main gear doors. And maybe some touches with wash and greasing.
  9. Dennis_C
    A nice model in classic livery! Honestly I do not notice this from the photoes. In my experience damage to the colour on leading (and trailing) edges used to happen when I worked with painted model especially where the amount of decal job is large. When you hold your model - typically this is holding the wing and trailing edges suffer most. The response on my side is 1) wearing medical gloves so that you do not touch painted model with your skin and 2) ensuring decent amount of paint and especially gloss finish on the edges. And then during final coating - do not forget the leading edge either!
  10. Dennis_C
    Thank you! I'm trying to complete this one in time before GB deadline. I did not make photoes but I also had painted all those undercarriage bits. So should be shake and bake process after painting and decalling. I'm a little nervous about Tamiya technical stencils. Hope these will not break apart during application.
  11. Dennis_C
    I said I did not - but then looked through Yugoslav photoes and voila: Smoke and thunder! However such photoes are indeed rare so if you make your IIAF model without RATO bottles - that is much safer option.
  12. Dennis_C
    This one has almost like 4-colour camo scheme with olive and blue repainted on the nose, engine pipe and in spots across other parts. I think it will work if you use same olive drab mixed with different amounts of white to produce faded and unfaded olive colour. And I agree typical US Army olive drab looks very familiar here. It's definitely not the green used on Lansen (for which I used H309 FS34079). Blue is interesting though especially as it faded. It looks like it actually changes its tone so just mixing with white will not give right effect. For the unfaded blue I think Hobby Colour H326 or H328 should work. For the faded.... I think here your artistic license should apply
  13. Dennis_C
    RATO bottles were not used on every aircraft. They were required to make heavily loaded aircraft airborne from poor or short airstrip. As I read about Tjet use - these were typical with USAF aircraft in Korea and on some USAF aircraft for trainings in both US and Europe. Maybe other users had these bottles too but as I build Yugoslavian Tjet - I do not think I saw any pictures with RATO assisted takeoffs for Yugoslavian F-84Gs.
  14. Dennis_C
    I thinks these should be fuel discharges. Typically it's just one pipe though. At least Streak and Flash have just one pipe on starboard side. Not sure why 2 paired pipes were needed here. On Yugoslav Tjets these pipes are undoubtedly present. I think they should be on IIAF Tjets too. BTW Special Hobby completely forgot this on its perfect Streak. Sword did not forget but hints you to make it yourself on their Flash instruction. For scratchbuild parts they typically explicitly write - make it yourself. Here it looks like they intended to have it on the sprues but then changed their minds. But it least it stayed on the instruction
  15. Dennis_C
    Started to paint the Streak too. Not much colour paints needed here as a lot of decals are provided for all those squadron stripes and tactical markings for Kadesh operation. However one still needs to paint olive drab nose, black elements on the spine and tail, light grey tail tip and a last moment discovery in the instructions - red trim tabs on wings!
  16. Dennis_C
    Painting continues with olive drab. And also bombs were painted: Next would be light grey on the tail tip and return to canopy framing to paint it in light grey/off-white with a touch of metallic effect.
  17. Dennis_C
    Thank you @Bjorn! So seems classic scheme for 35F is olive green with somewhat X-shaped blue spot and of course large numbers on the wing (I understand not every Draken had this but that makes the look very unique). The new MikroMir kit works perfectly for such a scheme. We just need a set of nice decals with wide choice of airplanes
  18. Dennis_C
    Looks like only cabin area is used from the KP kit. The Red Roo guys should think about making a full correct resin/3D kit or maybe collaborating with somebody to make an injection one.
  19. Dennis_C
    Steady but surely. First masking round done: Masked red areas yesterday and painted blue nose ring today. Next step will be olive drab. A combo of standard Tamiya tape where it touches paint, some pieces of school notebook sheets (to a little bit save masking tape), and wide Tamiya tape to fix the paper where paint is not touched. I do not trust wide tape. It peels off paint and leaves glue stains so only use where paint is not involved.
  20. Dennis_C
    Finishing this seemed easy but some minor fixes and polishing took a while. But all done. Finally primed today. Quite nasty sink marks were discovered at the wing root on fuselage sides. Between flaps, fuselage and trailing edge. On both upper and lower surfaces and on both port and starboard fuselage sides. Unpleasant to putty and sand I should say.
  21. Dennis_C
    Change the serial numbers!
  22. Dennis_C
    Yeah. I do have space but it will disappear in 2-3 years with my pace of building. Still I will build at least one Draken but honestly never thought about particular scheme. Olive-blue scheme with some fancy decorations and large numbers is maybe a way to go. Seems Moose Republic is releasing a decal set for 35F soon which will have some interesting options.
  23. Dennis_C
    As I understand that was the only one Draken painted in splinter for experiment. Let's put this into 'special schemes' section
  24. Dennis_C
    What is the history of Draken colour schemes? As I understand early scheme was natural metal, then two-tone olive green/blue topside camo (with parallel stripes and somewhat X-shaped, some with large white numbers on wings), and lastly grey scheme some with large red numbers. Splinter camo never used. Plus some export schemes.
  25. Dennis_C
    Someone who buys all the Luftwaffe boxes will be able to construct one real size Thunderstreak.
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